1166 Hasboard not working | Bitcointalksearch.org

JessieJames13

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Quote from: NotFuzzyWarm on March 22, 2024, 04:15:04 PM

As BizMax said, it takes more than just a soldering iron to do it. The power planes the terminal was attached to is very thick copper that sucks away heat very very quickly. A hot air station to assist the iron in heating the board itself a must and the iron must be good for at least 60W, preferably 100W.

you called it correct, the terminal pad goes cold within 3 seconds of taking the hot air off, incredible to witness...

I wonder how the repair companies do this part... im unable to actually get the area to 350 as its cooling down quicker than I can heat. Huh

JessieJames13

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Activity: 41

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I have now tried using 400d on the hot air station and 500d on the solder iron, both combined, and the residue does not turn to liquid.

I have soldered many other parts before and not experienced this issue.

Are there any alternatives to get this hashboard working?
I am in the UK

Here is a pic of my board with de-attached terminal https://i.postimg.cc/2zmc2QWk/20240322-040832.jpg

JessieJames13

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Activity: 41

Merit: 5

Quote from: BitMaxz on March 22, 2024, 03:05:15 PM

Quote from: JessieJames13 on March 22, 2024, 12:27:30 AM

the leftover residue on the hashboard pad doesn't liquidify even at 500degree c.

I think that's too hot it might damage parts near the terminal.
Would you mind showing us what tool you use to melt the solder lead from the board?
If it's just a soldering iron it can't melt you need a hotair rework station with a soldering iron as support to melt the soldering lead from the board and connector. You also need to add soldering lead and flux to melt them easily.

My solder station : https://hakko.co.uk/product/fx-838-high-power-soldering-station-150w/
My hot air rework : https://hakko.co.uk/product/fr-810b-hot-air-rework-station/

Im aware that 500 is too hot, but thought maybe the solder for terminals could have high melting point, as it didnt change at all.

I will try again using the hot air rework station

JessieJames13

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Activity: 41

Merit: 5

pics showing my board and connector

https://postimg.cc/kVSb1G0v

the leftover residue on the hashboard pad doesn't liquidify even at 500degree c.

the slighy yellowing residue around the edge of the pads appeared after i put my iron to 500c, so the connector may have come lose from sheer shock or vibration during transit

JessieJames13

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Activity: 41

Merit: 5

Quote from: philipma1957 on March 21, 2024, 10:44:14 PM

so the part appears to have gotten so warm it melted the solder. thus coming loose.

if the screws were tight enough.
some other reason overheated the area melting the solder.

I am thinking that soldering it back won't fix it as there is a hidden short that gets it too hot.

Could it have came off due to vibration?
I relocated the rig and thats when Ive noticed it.
Prior to this I don't recall any problem.

Also, as for resoldering, ive tried to reheat the current solder stuck on board and connector at 435°C, but it doesn't turn to liquid, are you certain its solder?

Are there any guides on this - i would really like to fix this myself, I likely have the parts & tools required.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Evil beware: We have waffles!

As BizMax said, it takes more than just a soldering iron to do it. The power planes the terminal was attached to is very thick copper that sucks away heat very very quickly. A hot air station to assist the iron in heating the board itself a must and the iron must be good for at least 60W, preferably 100W.

BitMaxz

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Block halving is coming.

Quote from: JessieJames13 on March 22, 2024, 12:27:30 AM

the leftover residue on the hashboard pad doesn't liquidify even at 500degree c.

I think that's too hot it might damage parts near the terminal.
Would you mind showing us what tool you use to melt the solder lead from the board?
If it's just a soldering iron it can't melt you need a hotair rework station with a soldering iron as support to melt the soldering lead from the board and connector. You also need to add soldering lead and flux to melt them easily.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Quote from: ?? on ??

Quote from: philipma1957 on March 20, 2024, 03:45:39 PM

positive and negative mean 2 connections

you lost one of the 2 connections you need both.

how did it fall off?

thanks for the replies guys.

It hasnt fell off, its still in the busbar with the screw in it, its unnattached from the hashboard.

Quote from: mikeywith on March 21, 2024, 09:33:34 PM

That is your DC power positive terminal, without it, there is no power feeding into the hashboard, how else do you think the hashboard is receiving power from the PSU? you will need to resolder that terminal, and make sure it's done by a professional, these things need to be tight for voltage to be in the required range, if it's loose, you could toast the board, be careful while dealing with it, the fact that it fell suggests that it was overheating, that's common if you didn't tighten the screws, loose terminals = heat.

I assumed the power was via some of the other molex type connectors, didnt need to trace every connection in the past.

ive tried applying solder at 435 degrees, the solder already stuck to the current connector and the hashboard doesnt turn to liquid.

Are there any guides on this

so the part appears to have gotten so warm it melted the solder. thus coming loose.

if the screws were tight enough.
some other reason overheated the area melting the solder.

I am thinking that soldering it back won't fix it as there is a hidden short that gets it too hot.

mikeywith

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Activity: 2170

Merit: 6279

be constructive or S.T.F.U

Quote from: ?? on ??

The part circled red is what has came off.
Is this just mechanical strength or for power?

That is your DC power positive terminal, without it, there is no power feeding into the hashboard, how else do you think the hashboard is receiving power from the PSU? you will need to resolder that terminal, and make sure it's done by a professional, these things need to be tight for voltage to be in the required range, if it's loose, you could toast the board, be careful while dealing with it, the fact that it fell suggests that it was overheating, that's common if you didn't tighten the screws, loose terminals = heat.

philipma1957

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Activity: 4116

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'The right to privacy matters'

positive and negative mean 2 connections

you lost one of the 2 connections you need both.

how did it fall off?

did you whack it or drop it?

mikeywith

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be constructive or S.T.F.U

I did not look inside an avalon 1166 but my guess is, there are no screws to attach the hashboards to the chassis, the only two screws are the power terminals (negative and positive) which supply DC power from the PSU to the hashbosrd.

In the old models, power used to be supplied via a 6 pin connector, now it is a busbar connected directly, but it could be something else you are talking about so please post some pictures.

BitMaxz

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Block halving is coming.

What bracket exactly? Are you talking about the busbar if it's not fixed or detached then the hasboard won't run because that is the power source.

If I'm wrong maybe have a different issue check for rust and corrosion? Try to clean it first use Thinner or Isopropyl if there is rust you can try to use sandpaper to clean them.

If the issue is still the same, check the API logs post it here, and let's analyze the issue.

JessieJames13

jr. member

Activity: 41

Merit: 5

Ive tried the hasboard in other 1166's and it doesnt work.

Is this bracket not being secured to the board enough to cause a problem in itself?
I assumed its just used mechanically to secure it, but I dont know what else to troubleshoot.

Topic: 1166 Hasboard not working (Read 176 times)