Topic: burnt pcb connector on antminer (Read 195 times)
No problem - PM me when you get everything together.
If you get some connectors I will be glad to fix it for you if you want to bring it over - you supply the connectors and the beer
I may take you up on that offer! I'll try to be sourcing the parts soon.
Replacing the connectors is worth a try for sure, removing them and replacing them is not difficult with the right equipment. Are you in Alabama? I gather from your username that you are an Alabama fan. If so, I may be close to you and will be glad to help you replace the connectors. I am in the Montgomery area.
Yes sir. Live in Tuscaloosa. Also routinely in the Birmingham area on weekdays.
I believe I read two options. Solder wire directly to that pin in PCB connector. Which I could probably manage.
But I'd rather have it fixed the right way with replacing. I've read getting the old connector to de-solder is difficult for a novice due to the pins pulling the heat away.
So the right fix for this may be out of my scope of practice.
If you get some connectors I will be glad to fix it for you if you want to bring it over - you supply the connectors and the beer
Replacing the connectors is worth a try for sure, removing them and replacing them is not difficult with the right equipment. Are you in Alabama? I gather from your username that you are an Alabama fan. If so, I may be close to you and will be glad to help you replace the connectors. I am in the Montgomery area.
Yes sir. Live in Tuscaloosa. Also routinely in the Birmingham area on weekdays.
I believe I read two options. Solder wire directly to that pin in PCB connector. Which I could probably manage.
But I'd rather have it fixed the right way with replacing. I've read getting the old connector to de-solder is difficult for a novice due to the pins pulling the heat away.
So the right fix for this may be out of my scope of practice.
My kiddo goes to Auburn, War Eagle
Couldn't resist!
When working with electronics like this a multimeter is one of the most important tools in your kit. You can pick up a cheap one for under $20 and ti woudl enable you to test many things including PSU functionality.
Replacing the connectors is worth a try for sure, removing them and replacing them is not difficult with the right equipment. Are you in Alabama? I gather from your username that you are an Alabama fan. If so, I may be close to you and will be glad to help you replace the connectors. I am in the Montgomery area.
Yes sir. Live in Tuscaloosa. Also routinely in the Birmingham area on weekdays.
I believe I read two options. Solder wire directly to that pin in PCB connector. Which I could probably manage.
But I'd rather have it fixed the right way with replacing. I've read getting the old connector to de-solder is difficult for a novice due to the pins pulling the heat away.
So the right fix for this may be out of my scope of practice.
The psu is a platinum volt switching, rated 900w at 110v, 1200 at 220. So was hoping on my 120v it would be ok. Have seen plenty of this model touted as a good choice to run two boards. But nonetheless, still not much overhead for sure.
I currently don't have a way to test if the PSU is undamaged other than plugging in the breakout board from the remaining good hash board to it and see.
Any harm in doing this briefly to see if it still delivers power? I don't want to fry the last board too.
I currently don't have a way to test if the PSU is undamaged other than plugging in the breakout board from the remaining good hash board to it and see.
Any harm in doing this briefly to see if it still delivers power? I don't want to fry the last board too.
replacing them should be ok.
One thing to note, you are driving that 900w psu pretty hard. Each hashing board pulls 425-450 watts which is driving that PSU at 100% or more.
One thing to note, you are driving that 900w psu pretty hard. Each hashing board pulls 425-450 watts which is driving that PSU at 100% or more.
Replacing the connectors is worth a try for sure, removing them and replacing them is not difficult with the right equipment. Are you in Alabama? I gather from your username that you are an Alabama fan. If so, I may be close to you and will be glad to help you replace the connectors. I am in the Montgomery area.
I've searched past posts regarding similar issues. My s7 is down for the count, prior been running fine on HP server PSUs.
Had 750w going to control board and 1st hashing board and 900w going to remaining two, the two that are toast at the connectors.
https://prnt.sc/ibtmof
If the chips are fine and it is only these connectors that shorted and melted is this fixable?
My plan is to purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NDSXSI
Then somehow remove burnt ones and resolder new.
Then snip melted cables, apply new clips.
Should be able to do above for $15,, worth a try? Any tips or links to past post a missed that could help?
Had 750w going to control board and 1st hashing board and 900w going to remaining two, the two that are toast at the connectors.
https://prnt.sc/ibtmof
If the chips are fine and it is only these connectors that shorted and melted is this fixable?
My plan is to purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NDSXSI
Then somehow remove burnt ones and resolder new.
Then snip melted cables, apply new clips.
Should be able to do above for $15,, worth a try? Any tips or links to past post a missed that could help?
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