Topic: Dual-purpose DPS800/DPS1200 breakout board (Read 6604 times)

i think the breakout board from the 1200 watts will fit perfectly with the 1,400 watts. there's a list of supported server power supplies that the breakout board can support. you can just double check before purchasing it.

Sidehack. You don't happen to have volume of any breakout board that fits the 1400w HP PSU's?

i think the old one is a gold power supply while the other is a platinum power supply. i prefer the 2nd one which you can save a lot of money on it long term.

Hi! What’s the difference between the two power supplies, Hp dps 1200fb a 1200w 438202-001 vs 438202-002 ? I would like to attach the breakout board to the power supply but I don't know what the difference is between the two power supplies. Thx!

Happy to report everything came in and is working flawlessly.   


You boys rock!

I agree with this, it is a nice addition indeed 

The shroud is something MacEntyre did himself, probably for safety or compliance with a safety regulation.

Funnily enough I have messaged macyntyre (bitshopper) about your breakout board and cables (heavy duty ones they call them). They have a little shroud around the board they sell which was quite neat. Do you do those aswell or is that an addition by bitshopper?

Groovy. I just brought in more PCBs, so next week I'll be restocked on board and cables for anyone wanting to order direct.

Just order multiple boards and cables from Holy's site.   Keep up the good work!

Yeah, go do that. Novak and I had this board project in mind for about a year, but HolyScott (and to a lesser extent CrazyGuy) are a lot of the reason we were able to get 'em built.

I've had these in hand for a while but I just now finally got them listed on my website for board only, along with bundles including Cables and Power Supplies.

I can do additional bulk discounts for anyone needing large quantities of these.

Soon as the new one comes in, send the defective to me and I'll figure out what's up. I'm planning on redesigning the board anyway so it can't hurt to have some real-world issues to look at.

I have one due here tomorrow from the same place i have two now one is for back up it's having issue with on off switch by no fault of mine . the one tomorrow gets put to use right away. i don't do good reviews so i won't be ...

Snazzy.

I received my breakout board for my DPS1200 from ASICPuppy yesterday.  It's a nice and solid piece of hardware, feels much beefier that the previous unit I had.  I have not yet checked connector temps but I can tell already they will be cooler.  Unfortunately my new place is not wired for 240v, so I will be using my DPS1200 on my S5 and shipping my Avalon 6 off to be hosted.

Here's a few pictures for fun.





Temp. set up for now, just set up new home network last night and wanted to get back to mining asap.

Holy all ways has tons of cables which are very good for my use, and who i buy all my supply's from in the US for miners as i need it.


holy also seems to have more on hand at a better price then ASICPuppy for some stuff, i watch both but most of time holy is lower with more .

No. Very different PSU with a very different connector.

I was wondering if this breakout board could also work with an Emerson DS1050?
Would be a nice idea to re-use the PSU's from the SP10...

Great, thanks.  I got my psu & cables from Scott, and I have a R1 from crazyguy.  I'll keep my eye out for when they become available.

Temps on the pci-e plugs on my psu board now are 100*F; they are 80*F at the A6.  I look forward to the new board.

I won't really have board available for a couple weeks, as the first half-batch sold out and my immediate budgets for both parts and manufacturing time are spoken for already. However, both ASICPuppy and HolyBitcoin were among the initial orders so both sites should have 'em up for sale soon. Not sure what ASICPuppy will have for cables, but HolyScott specifically requested 6-pin jacks because he had a surplus of pretty good double-ended cables already.

Part of the burnt jbberwock board is due to more then 170 watts a jack.

The s-5 pulls  650 watts so four jacks is 162.5 watts.


The a6 pulls 900-1000 watts so four jacks is 225 to 250 watts

The s-7 pulls 1300 watts so 9 jacks is 143 watts


Most burn outs of his boards are on the a6. The a4 the sp20.

Not the s-7 or the s-5.

Sidehacks y-cables are flawless so far

Good information, thanks for the explanation and link.  Guess I need to go pick up a little infrared thermometer and take a look at my board, I might be picking up a new sidehack one straight away depending what I see temp wise.  Or maybe like you said I'll just upgrade now...

Is that a normal occurrence for those to burn up?  How hot of an ambient environment are you in?  Makes me nervous to leave mine running unattended if it has melt down potential and I will update to sidehack's board right now if that is the case.

I am hoping to get the right weather in may a 90f day.

Turn off all my gear but the 2 a6's get the garage to 99f and see what happens,

Got my one board today , i love it all ready very good feel etc etc i mean that .

cya

it cooled back off my test gear is showing just about exactly equally  the gold 1200 aurum  head to head against the 1200 hp  with side hacks board.

all pcie jacks are under 45 c .

So far so good.

AC we had ours on the last two days turned it off last nite got to cold

one day got to 91  .

my test unit is chugging along.  house finally got too hot I had to turn on the ac

Connectors are in and they look good. Built a jig to help streamline assembly. I'll put in time over the weekend to finish them all out, get everything cleaned and tested and bagged. All current orders (including reseller stock) should be out Tuesday.

Do refer to the quick Spec link I posted when you buy the HP PSU's http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04111541 as they are made in all 80Plus ranges from Bronze up to Titanium. The price a seller wants is one clue to what the eff rating is if they do not say it outright. Hopefully they give the HP model number for easy reference...

The cheapest I picked up on Amazon was around $25 for one, turns out is Silver rated (was before I found the spec link). Thankfully I was wary of the ones I've seen for $15-20. Most from Amazon running around $30-45 turn out to be be the Golds. You can find Platinum rated ones but they generally start around $75 or higher and they are explicitly advertised as such for easy searching.. Also, if you have the $$$ some Titanium rated HP's show up from time to time. Still cheaper than most same-rated ATX PSU's though.

Which is why I switched test to the 240 volt line as it eases the hp 1200 .

As it rates higher for 240 volt then 120 volt.

It's important to note that the PSU power rating is for the OUTPUT, and not "at the wall". So if the A6 draws say 1005W at the wall, as my A6 does, that's roughly in the range of a maxed out, 90% efficient, 900W PSU. Not good long term for the PSU, but but it could certainly work for a while.

I understood that the HP psu would max out at 900 watts with only 120 volt supply, yet you saw over 1000 watts at the wall from it?  That was the reason I wired my for 240, so that I could realize the full potential of the psu.  And yea, I think the efficiency increase from 120 to 240 is only like ~3%, so that would likely fall within the error range for any retail power meters to report.

Speaking of 120 or 240 volts I moved both psu's from 120 to 240 volts.

the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin

one kwatt meter was 1000 at the plug the other 1050 at the plug

so 2000 to 2100 watts for 6500 gh = .307 to .323 watts  per kwatt combined  and each one is basically equal

so the hp 1200 psu is doing gold rated
as is the aurum psu

I have managed  to do lower with some platinum psu's  but they are 2x the price of a sidehack + a hp 1200

Holy shit. Talk about being retarded! Surely the dryer didn't work with only 120v? Didn't the idiot realize something was wrong? Damn.

Hey, I didn't say all amateur electricians were jackasses, just some are bivocational. I've always done my own electrical, including all the 3-phase wiring for my 100KW hosting setup, and all I got is six years of engineering university and growing up the son of a building trades instructor. What I said was, sometimes things are wired up wrong and/or dangerously by jackasses resulting in the case no longer being grounded. Like whoever wired up the dryer plug in that house thought it was a great idea to provide 120V for a 240V dryer and put the other 120V leg on the chassis of the machine sitting right next to a big box full of water. It's almost like they were trying to kill someone. Needless to say, in the first week after I moved into that house I spent a day redoing about half the wiring in the basement.

PSU connectors are supposed to arrive today, which means these boards will start going out the door pretty soon.

Here is how I mounted mine, it's hung with a good gap between it and the metal rack and it has a nice cool-air supply from a vent to outside.  You are using metal racks, you could hang them below.



My power plug is, *ahem* using my 240 dryer plug with a wire made by me, and that's Registered Professional Engineer/jackass thank you very much, but I done made it good.  

we do that now with the dryer plug and our external gen if the power goes out i had a plug made by a friend who works with a heating company a while back so we can power our house if the power goes out just plug it into the dryer plug when the power does just make sure to turn the main breaker off first and hot water heater breaker or the drain will shut down the gen or even mess it up or it may not even power up. we have our house powered during a power out age with out spending 10 k for a GEN for the cost of a plug and 1 k for good gas gen from home depot with water heat and air tv internet etc just no heated water . we keep gas on hand encase.

and yea our state doesn't like that idea but we don't like having power off for days either sometimes so f  them . how i feel were careful doing it .

Look at my profile. I'm from Russia. It is foolish to consider me a rival.
Information is needed only for personal use.

Yep, there's all kinds of information if you go looking for it, but since selling these boards keeps food on my table I'm not really of a mind to help circumvent that.

sure , but asking how to hot wire a psu on a thread that is selling breakout boards to do what you want is poor form.

maybe some one will pm you the answer maybe not.

Hi. I need help.
I know how to turn on the PSU, but i'm looking for a full pin out for HP DPS-1200FB A.
Does anyone have information?

that's exactly what i mean or referring to the bottom of the bob, other then that nothing else is ever a problem. unless i need something in one place for a while and not be able to move it, there really good for that to.

Also illegal. Course sometimes the plug is wired in by an amateur electrician slash professional jackass. House I was in a couple years ago had the dryer plug wired with one hot leg hooked to case ground.

But yeah, inside the PSU the case should be ground or isolated.

As I understand it, the only parts that have short out potential are the pins on the bottom of the breakout board; nothing on the external of the psu itself should be conducting electricity.  Would be a pretty crummy psu design if you could electrocute yourself by touching the outside of it while it was running.

I use the tape i linked more to protect the bear parts that can touch stuff that can short out and possibility damage the miners or BOB i use a wood shelf but also use a metal rack of which i will Polly never post pictures it's all aug looking how i do it, some stuff sets on the basement floor, wires every were but in a order i know etc nothing new or different to show anyone or really impressive.



cya

simple  this a  temporary place next spot will be different.  next spot will need a bar to be mounted.


pretend the wood is this shelving which is for the solar array.   It  now has 6 ½ soon to be 8 ½   a6s

I will take the bar and 3m foam tape it to the top of the miner.  then place it on this set of shelving

I would have considered doing all my avalons like that but this break out board was not around

What's the point? You could just put the PSU directly on the wooden surface and not worry about anything.

That is why i clamped it.  As I most certainly will move the two units to the solar array in May.

By May 15th  the house will have 2 pcs mining eth coins and 12 sidehack compac sticks.

I like this break out board.  I will get back with more info on it the next few days.

Except that if you guys use industrial tape to hold things down what happens when you need to move them?  Seems inconvenient.

what your thought on this i use it a lot buy two or three sheets cut what i need as i needed it

http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Conformable-Double-Sided-Adhesive/dp/B004V40TM0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


Price went up i see sense i bought it. wow went more then a lot i paid 7.20 a sheet in FEB .

one last thing  the mounting on the metal  bar and the table with a clamp was over kill  

this also works very well


http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-1-Inch-50-Inch/dp/B00004Z4A8/ref=sr_1_4?

 MY 1200 psu's on start up spin up high fan wise have been that way sense i bought them then give it 2 mins you never hear them again. they just run for ever with no other kind of cooling other then what they come with mine were all bought according to the seller oem brand new even looked new with one year warranty and keeping then out in the open is all the cooling they seem to need, like others do.


I bought one of these boards can't wait for it to get here but can no real rush.

DPS1200 has 12V standby on pin 37 as far I know - I guess unused pins are accesible to wire-up on your board.

Can you elaborate on IO port? Or point me to spec/pinout?

5V standby might be possible with a complete redesign and a fair bit more complication and losing compatibility with the standard IO my boards have had since the beginning. So, no not really unless you want to wire it up yourself. DPS800 has 5V standby on an unused pin, but I honestly don't know what it would tie to on the DPS1200.

Yes, with the external-on pin it's pretty easy to make an external controller turn 'em on and off. All my boards have done that.

this fan works well pretty quiet




lastly here is a hot watts meter  reading 1067 watts at the wall

1- Any chance to get 5V standby?
2- Any chance to make one Raspberry Pi controlling power-on/off to several of these boards?

my server hp 1200 is really quiet.

some how it is so quiet i find it amazing.

I came up with a perfect mount solution.

let  me photo it.

left over 1 ½  by 1 ½ tubing



cut to 1 foot or so

and some electrical tape  for no shorts
clamp holds psu





clamp is nice

Yes the HP Common Slot power supplies really do not need airspace around them.
Agree, in HP servers I see several types every week there is no much space on DC side.
Check out original HP breakout board (in cage), notice amount of cables going out, know there are big radiators in the cage and this is attached to TWO PSU's at once.

The HP 1200W supplies really do not need airspace around them, just free space at the ends for air in 'n out eg, part of my farm from 11mo ago, http://i.imgur.com/J4uUYAa.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rbcz0pw.jpg and http://i.imgur.com/OochrCC.jpg

That's 6 of them packed in a 2U high brick. During the summer it gets up to >85f in that area and never had a problem with them. Do they get toasty to the touch? Well yes but that is how they are designed to run 24x7x365. As a rule of thumb I keep max load on any PSU to around 80-85%.

Nice looking product.  I just purchased the 1200w HP server psu from HolyBitcoin and it had a board from J4bberwock, but I like the additional features you board has.

Phil, I have my psu suspended from the metal racking that my miner sits on, I'll take a pict and post it but it allows good ventilation around the psu while not letting any of the contacts on the bottom of the break out board touch the metal racking.

I get many pm's that tell me not to double post.  So my wife helped me out and did that question thus I did not double post.


back to photos  top hook up is the server break out board hook up



my thumb is next to the on off button.

nice button feels costly



better shot of my support of the breakout card
looks to me if you pick up these cards there are two ways to secure the card and the psu.  my setup now does not reflect a long term method
later today I will post a better way

Did you wife just ask you that, or are you talking to yourself? 

yes

garage door is shut as I want the test arer to be pretty hot it is 89f



my edition has prototype black jacks attached to the 1200 watt at 240 volt server psu.

my tests are on a 120 volt circuit

using an empty rasp pi   box to support the breakout board
using a clamp to keep the psu steady



using a 1 2 3 block to allow cooling to the server psu
note the aurum 1200 watt psu which is matching the  server breakout in this comparison test

Any more shots of the test setup?

I will need to ask buysolar if it helps as he has about 70kwatts in inverters installed.


over night the numbers are

3327  gh 11.9 volts = sidehack board and a hps 1200
3328  gh 11.9 volts = aurum 1200 gold


So on a short test it is good.

Philipma: If you check that link I gave to the HP supplies on p.15 you'll see that they have 48vdc input supplies (36-72vdc range) and since you are into solar... eliminates substantial inverter losses I'd think.

glad you asked I purchased an infra red

here are the shots with it  about 4 or 5 hours runtime every number was under 52c

the big 'flaw' is I need to figure a good way to support the card and allow air to circulate 
the solution I am using now is temporary

Cool. How's the PCB temperature around the jacks in use? The board is 9oz copper total, so 4.5oz per rail. Normally it's full thickness per rail on my boards but with the matrix of 6-pins that's not really possible. Still, I think 4.5oz is probably thick compared to most other boards.

I am running a head to head test.

  using sidehacks new break out board  with some 16 gauge cables and a hps 1200 psu.


it is running against a new sealed fsp aurum 1200 watt psu.

a link to the psu
that uses  sidehack break out board.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291700007037?

a link to the aurum 1200 watt



http://www.amazon.com/FSP-Certified-Modular-Compatible-AU-1200PRO/dp/B007P8DKC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461119361&sr=8-1&keywords=aurum+1200+watt



I just set this up today.  the used server with sidehacks board is match the new 1200 watt atx

Interesting that the DPS1200 is running an s7... At the wall my s7's pretty much are all pulling 1,290w each so DC power out to the s7 has to be near/at max I'd think. Safe bet the supply's fan is in hair-dryer mode, not that it matters considering the s7's spl. No problems with it? If not,hmmm. I still have several of them around and beats buying more Bitmain supplies....

I wonder what the DPS1200 hold up time under full load is? (for power glitches) Gonna have to find the spec pdf on them again methinks.

edit: Found the link to HP's pdf Quick specs on all (and I DO mean all!) of their CS supplies http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/getpdf.aspx/c04111541.pdf?ver=2 I'm surprised there is no mention of hold up time.

Works for me if it works for you.

Awesome! I love to see these projects come to life! I dont have any of those PSUs but I do run the DPS2000's and use your board for them. Great quality product!!

if you will sell me one right now i take one and buy it tomorrow Ive been waiting for you or opt to come out with some good break out boards for the 800/1200 so i can run mine again and feel safe and not have browned out PCEI plugs .Ive been using OPt broads on two of my 2k PSU i use and need some good boards for my 3 1200 so i can power them up again and feel safe. or direct me to a re seller i don't care were i buy it.

need one now and two poss next month about the same time .Im good on cable have a lot on hand as back up.

Philipma1957 received one of the first test boards from this batch a couple weeks ago. I'm hoping he'll chime in with a review.

So, I have finally gotten to production on a project well over a year in the making. The first working prototype was completed shortly after Christmas 2014, followed by a complete redesign and a bunch of other trouble. But now we have the new product hooray!

What I've got is a single breakout board which will work for both the DPS800GBA PSU (850W@120V, 1000W@240V) and the DPS1200 (1000W@120V, 1200W@240V) PSUs. The board can be built with either our standard screw terminals (2x 4-position per rail, twice as many as the Dell 750W board) or 12x PCIe 6-pin terminals.

The board has an on/off button (toggle switch optional), standard status LEDs (green standby, blue 12V), optional 5VDC aux supply, and our standard 10-pin IO header. POK and External On are functional, as well as 3.3V standby power. Current sense, current share and external fan are not connected. The PCB is the same width as the PSU, so they can line up side-by-side without wasting any space.







This S7 has been running in my hosting since January on one of the original test boards. It's a bit smaller, built with only 10x PCIe but we had to change things around a bit to make connector spacings better.

Board prices start at $32 for single quantity down to $25 for lots of 100. Cables (either spade for screw terminals, or double-ended PCIe) can be had for $3 for 18", $3.30 for 24" and $4 for 36" cable.

Right now (4/19) I'm making up initial bulk orders so it'll be a couple days before I have standing stock available to ship, but a couple days isn't bad. An order placed now would probably ship Tuesday 4/26. I have about half a dozen DPS800 PSUs but I don't have any DPS1200 PSUs available for sale at this time. I'll stock up as soon as I can.

If anyone's interested in this product, PM me or send an email to [email protected]