bro i understand the concept of the plumbing now thanks so much for explaining it. only problem now is that i am in a new place is finding this water line. This is going to be a nightmare and could take days?
heheh, if there's one thing I've learned about mining, is you end up having to learn about everything else to do it - plumbing, electrical, cooling, etc. But that's also what makes it fun!
Is there something simpler i could do? I dont like going on hunts and am kind of lazy. Say put some kind of junction on the washing machine cold water source? I could then simply run a hose to a float valve or something. Not sure if this is making sense. Seems very very easy in my mind.
IF this makes sense help me with a parts list for the plumbing?
Absolutely - it just needs to be anywhere you've already got water - and your laundry room is definitely a good candidate. You could literally just the exact item I linked to for that, as I'm pretty sure that's the same hookup that a laundry machine has - and usually you have a cutoff valve right by the machine, so it would just go between the cutoff valve and your washing machine. Assuming your garage or where-ever you're mining shares a wall with your laundry room, then I would just put a small access hole through the wall and pass that water line to your reservoir. For the float, use something like this (the one you linked to is a bit low quality, I generally try to use all brass parts whenever possible):
http://amzn.to/2anlEaCAnd here's some generic 1/4" tubing:
http://amzn.to/2an1MuiGet some generic bucket like this (cheaper to just pick up at Home Depot):
http://amzn.to/2anlIqRFor a pump, literally all the ones I've used were like this one:
http://amzn.to/2aJrKEXSo figure this goes in the bucket, the water goes maybe 2-3" deep, you have another hose that is 'overflow', at about this level, and have this hose go to a drain somewhere. This will make sure you're good to go in case the float fails for some reason. The put the float about at the 3.5" level, and adjust the float so it stops at the right level relative to the pump. If you want to get REALLY tricky, then if you build a bigger system, then some design purge pumps in also. So these are like a second pump like the first, and it runs maybe once every 24 hours or so, and it basically pumps all the water out of the reservoir and into your overflow valve. So this flushes all the water and makes sure you always have fresh water and ideally less contaminants than you might have otherwise. This dump cycle can be set to longer, like every 48 hours if you feel like it doesn't need it, or more often, like every 6 hours - it's up to you. I have my purge cycle set at 24 hours, and it still barely shows up on the water bill.
So buying better parts you're going to be over the $30, but really it will be $60 or so, so not much more. You also have to get the evap media; PortaCool is one of my favorites - and I like the kind that's made from basically cardboard:
https://www.grainger.com/product/PORTACOOL-PORTACOOL-Residential-Commercial-WP5248201/_/N-1z0ccqo?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1K543_AS01?$smthumb$
You can get whatever size works best, and these filters will last for a LONG time (like years), they're not like air filters for your air handler. The thicker you get, the more static pressure the fans will need to pull air through, and the better the cooling performance, although you'll never really get more than static bulb with a traditional evap. You can experiment with cheaper media if you're so inclined, but I've either found they don't last as long, or they're a huge mess, so I just stick with this. You also can sometimes find some great deals on excess on Craigslist if you stalk that...