just as an update, i got out of mining a couple months ago. everything went off without a hitch. i didn't have any problems. or burn my house down or anything like that LOL...
it did keep my house VERY warm from the heat soak coming from the basement.
when the drop took a shit i sold off all miners, my wife was really enjoying the 80 degree house during the winter though haha
Topic: getting enough power from a normal house electrical system! (Read 10746 times)
Nope
everything is still running. have 30 or so antminer s1 running undervolted, one s2, and 2 lunar landers, and 2 black widows... two s3s
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
you have cheap power costs that comes to under 7 cents a kwatt about 6.75 cents.
where are you located?
nw oregon
i pay 0.064 for first 5000kw and 0.068 after that
Any limit for the 0.068?
everything is still running. have 30 or so antminer s1 running undervolted, one s2, and 2 lunar landers, and 2 black widows... two s3s
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
you have cheap power costs that comes to under 7 cents a kwatt about 6.75 cents.
where are you located?
nw oregon
i pay 0.064 for first 5000kw and 0.068 after that
everything is still running. have 30 or so antminer s1 running undervolted, one s2, and 2 lunar landers, and 2 black widows... two s3s
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
you have cheap power costs that comes to under 7 cents a kwatt about 6.75 cents.
where are you located?
everything is still running. have 30 or so antminer s1 running undervolted, one s2, and 2 lunar landers, and 2 black widows... two s3s
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
9200kw hours last month :0
$620 bill
its been pretty hot here, in the 90s... ive had one ant hit 61c but I blew out the dust from all of them and they all got 3-4c cooler from just that.
highest I have now is 58c on that one ant that always is the hottest for whatever reason.
the PSUs really don't like the heat... ive had two PC psus go bad in the last couple days, i'm replacing them with server psus, they seem to take the abuse better and I get them for less the $20
highest I have now is 58c on that one ant that always is the hottest for whatever reason.
the PSUs really don't like the heat... ive had two PC psus go bad in the last couple days, i'm replacing them with server psus, they seem to take the abuse better and I get them for less the $20
sucks, before miners was bill was usually less than $30
Why,you lucky %$#^@ !!!!!! 
Here in Floriduh,I get .13 kwh
& I have a nuke plant like 5 miles away!!!
Guess we need a coal plant
Here in Floriduh,I get .13 kwh
& I have a nuke plant like 5 miles away!!!
Guess we need a coal plant
Just wait till your electric bill shows up
With 2200 watts for 5 S1's & 3 vid cards my bill was $628-$250(regular bill per month)=$378.With BTC @ $425,just wasn't worth it............
With 2200 watts for 5 S1's & 3 vid cards my bill was $628-$250(regular bill per month)=$378.With BTC @ $425,just wasn't worth it............
im paying 0.06 last month bill was $300 and i was running ac almost all day everyday
Just wait till your electric bill shows up
With 2200 watts for 5 S1's & 3 vid cards my bill was $628-$250(regular bill per month)=$378.With BTC @ $425,just wasn't worth it............
With 2200 watts for 5 S1's & 3 vid cards my bill was $628-$250(regular bill per month)=$378.With BTC @ $425,just wasn't worth it............
two 50amp 220v main breakers, with the correct 50amp cables running to basement, two l6-30r plugs with 30amp pdus.
the pdus are about 3/4 their capacity each. shouldnt be stressing the 50amp 220v circuits.
this is basically like im running my furnace 24/7
the pdus are about 3/4 their capacity each. shouldnt be stressing the 50amp 220v circuits.
this is basically like im running my furnace 24/7
still seems to be working fine, i did hear a loud clicking noise when i was asleep that woke me up, still half asleep and dark house thought breaker went or something but must've been dreaming lol...
i have 25 ants running down there..... getting pretty warm in the basement... ive seen one ant hit 58c
i have 25 ants running down there..... getting pretty warm in the basement... ive seen one ant hit 58c
everything seems to be working fine, staying relatively cool.
power cables coming from the 220v are all cool to the touch. doesn't seem to be stressing it. PDUs are cool
power cables coming from the 220v are all cool to the touch. doesn't seem to be stressing it. PDUs are cool
Nice set up!
Please don't quote large images.
Also you can go here if you like mining set ups: https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/--7216
Here's what I did with my setup. It's a little different situation because I have a 200A main breaker box with plenty of room.
Here is the new 60A 220V breaker added to my main box with a 6awg 3 conductor wire leading to my sub panel:
Here is my sub panel. I decided to go with 15A 110V breakers with a single breaker per 1000-1300W power supply. I used 14 awg nema13 power cords and cut them off to wire them directly to the breakers, thus saving money on recepticals, outlets, boxes, condutit, etc. I checked with a couple power guys and everything seems to still meet code.
Here is the box all covered up. The big 'breaker' with the white label is actually a whole home surge protector. I didn't want to waste my money on PDUs or individual surge protectors so this was a good solution for everything on the sub box.
Here's the whole cabinet. Obviously this is a little easier to do in a cage but could pretty easily be mounted on a wall next to your shelf-type setup.
Nice set up! Here is the new 60A 220V breaker added to my main box with a 6awg 3 conductor wire leading to my sub panel:
Here is my sub panel. I decided to go with 15A 110V breakers with a single breaker per 1000-1300W power supply. I used 14 awg nema13 power cords and cut them off to wire them directly to the breakers, thus saving money on recepticals, outlets, boxes, condutit, etc. I checked with a couple power guys and everything seems to still meet code.
Here is the box all covered up. The big 'breaker' with the white label is actually a whole home surge protector. I didn't want to waste my money on PDUs or individual surge protectors so this was a good solution for everything on the sub box.
Here's the whole cabinet. Obviously this is a little easier to do in a cage but could pretty easily be mounted on a wall next to your shelf-type setup.
At the panel they are, although on newer ones you have separate neutral and ground bus bars. The idea behind splitting the neutral and ground is that the neutral is a current carrying conductor, so if you have a longish run of cable (say 100ft) and you're loading a cable close to is rated voltage you can actually have a few volts drop across the neutral, and thus the chassis can be a few volts above ground. It also provides a secondary safety system is your neutral (or ground) gets damaged but your hot does not, in which case metal might become live.
Separating them is relatively new in homes though, so if yours is older you might not have any separate earth ground. In any case, since you don't actually use the neutral as a current carrying conductor, it's not really applicable to you. I'm honestly not sure what an inspector would ask you to do though, so just be careful.
Separating them is relatively new in homes though, so if yours is older you might not have any separate earth ground. In any case, since you don't actually use the neutral as a current carrying conductor, it's not really applicable to you. I'm honestly not sure what an inspector would ask you to do though, so just be careful.
This is what I have at home, and even the ground/neutral bars are different (house built in 1997), they are very well connected by a shunt there ..
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.8182756
From what I read newer appliances use 4 wire because they have some stuff inside that uses 110
Cool thanks for the reply.
yes the white wires are off the picture but they are hooked up to the neutral/ground panel in the main breaker box
yes the white wires are off the picture but they are hooked up to the neutral/ground panel in the main breaker box
afaik on main breaker panels the neutral and ground always combined even if they are on different bars... its only sub panels that should have separate neutral and ground panels
At the panel they are, although on newer ones you have separate neutral and ground bus bars. The idea behind splitting the neutral and ground is that the neutral is a current carrying conductor, so if you have a longish run of cable (say 100ft) and you're loading a cable close to is rated voltage you can actually have a few volts drop across the neutral, and thus the chassis can be a few volts above ground. It also provides a secondary safety system is your neutral (or ground) gets damaged but your hot does not, in which case metal might become live.Separating them is relatively new in homes though, so if yours is older you might not have any separate earth ground. In any case, since you don't actually use the neutral as a current carrying conductor, it's not really applicable to you. I'm honestly not sure what an inspector would ask you to do though, so just be careful.
Most A/C & hot water heaters don't use a neutral,just 2 110 legs & a ground,why
Not sure............ So if the white is on ground in the panel,you did good.I went back to your panel pics too,but the white wire was out of sight.
As for ovens & dryers,most newer units come with 4 wires,where white is neutral & a ground is included.
What's strange is a lot of older homes used white as a ground with only 3 wires for 220 volt appliances,but there is sometimes a ground bar that the 110 volt circuits use............
Use a clamp amp meter to check draw on your circuits (measure the red & then the black wire),you can even measure your large input cables to be sure your not exceeding your line in max,think you said it was 120 amps.
Just be VERY careful,touching anything in the panel,it can be extremely dangerous.
afaik on main breaker panels the neutral and ground always combined even if they are on different bars... its only sub panels that should have separate neutral and ground panels
At the panel they are, although on newer ones you have separate neutral and ground bus bars. The idea behind splitting the neutral and ground is that the neutral is a current carrying conductor, so if you have a longish run of cable (say 100ft) and you're loading a cable close to is rated voltage you can actually have a few volts drop across the neutral, and thus the chassis can be a few volts above ground. It also provides a secondary safety system is your neutral (or ground) gets damaged but your hot does not, in which case metal might become live.Separating them is relatively new in homes though, so if yours is older you might not have any separate earth ground. In any case, since you don't actually use the neutral as a current carrying conductor, it's not really applicable to you. I'm honestly not sure what an inspector would ask you to do though, so just be careful.
afaik on main breaker panels the neutral and ground always combined even if they are on different bars... its only sub panels that should have separate neutral and ground panels
on my main breaker box, there is no neutral and ground bars, they are combined, maybe because it is old???
there are white and bare wires on the same panel
there are white and bare wires on the same panel
i guess its weird the white wire was on the ground panel in the furnace
It's fine. I might actually be wrong on this, and I apologize. Ground and neutral are different and should be treated as such, but I am not sure there's anything in the code preventing using a white wire (as opposed to bare, green or green/yellow) as the ground. Technically it should be connected to the grounding bar in the panel instead of the neutral bar, but if it's on the ground anyway you're probably fine.
afaik i did it right for 220v three wire
should i switch the blk and white wire?
btw i havent turned the circuit back on yet
btw i havent turned the circuit back on yet
i guess its weird the white wire was on the ground panel in the furnace
i can change it, the instructions said to put the ground wire on the that place. red = hot, blk = hot, white = grd
on the furnace the white wire was on the ground panel...
i appreciate the help though if its wrong... so dont stop helpin
on the furnace the white wire was on the ground panel...
i appreciate the help though if its wrong... so dont stop helpin
so i survived...
That is (technically) wired wrong. You have the neutral going to the ground terminal on that plug. Functionally it won't make a difference, but just be aware that what you have there technically isn't up to code (not that the whole setup is anyway) and it might cause issues with insurance if it burns your house down.
so i survived...
Old wiring, old PDUs, high amps and an OP who isn't really an electrician but wishes he was. What could possibly go wrong.
I agree with the others: OP should get a qualified electrician to do this work.
I agree with the others: OP should get a qualified electrician to do this work.
so i have 19 ant s1 running normal 180ghash and one bw... ive got 5 per circuit and two switches and three box fans.
the circuits are all 20amp/2400w
all of the circuits should be running under 2000w, a little buffer before trippage.... my main house plug circuit is 120amps....
i have a 110 electric furnace it is on two 50amp circuits. i use a wood stove for heat, but will use miners for heat this winter...
my question is how to get two heavy gauge wires down to a strip of 110 plugs, im obviously not a electrician... is this what pdus are for?? it there something i can buy at a normal hardware store to step it down into a row of plugs???
i have 5 more s1s i need power for lol...
the circuits are all 20amp/2400w
all of the circuits should be running under 2000w, a little buffer before trippage.... my main house plug circuit is 120amps....
i have a 110 electric furnace it is on two 50amp circuits. i use a wood stove for heat, but will use miners for heat this winter...
my question is how to get two heavy gauge wires down to a strip of 110 plugs, im obviously not a electrician... is this what pdus are for?? it there something i can buy at a normal hardware store to step it down into a row of plugs???
i have 5 more s1s i need power for lol...
Get a electrician, you don't wanna DIY power stuff unless you know well. Don't burn down your house please..
So, I'm impressed by your wiring skills and lack of healthy fear for electrocuting yourself to the next plane of existence. 
That being said, make sure you get a fire detector in there somewhere. There was a rash of miners in the early days who burned through the electrical wiring while trying to get inventive.
That being said, make sure you get a fire detector in there somewhere. There was a rash of miners in the early days who burned through the electrical wiring while trying to get inventive.
lol i didnt wire that box or anything else in this house except the dryer 220 but i did that right
the previous owner of this house thought he was tim taylor lol
So, I'm impressed by your wiring skills and lack of healthy fear for electrocuting yourself to the next plane of existence.
That being said, make sure you get a fire detector in there somewhere. There was a rash of miners in the early days who burned through the electrical wiring while trying to get inventive.
That being said, make sure you get a fire detector in there somewhere. There was a rash of miners in the early days who burned through the electrical wiring while trying to get inventive.
I bought one l6 30 plug tonight, the store only had one and its a plug no wall mount boxes. It'll work fine. Probably going to pick up psus and cables tomorrow.
thx for the help I'll post when I get it finished
thx for the help I'll post when I get it finished
ok.
I contacted a place local that sells old hardware, they have some PDUs. some are 20a max and some are 30a.
some have L6-20 and some have L6-30.
this is my plan right now:
wire two L6-30 220v outlets from the existing wires running into the furnace.
buy two L6-30 PDUs with 30a max from this place, they want $30 a piece
if I want to go back to using the furnace at some point it'll be just a simple deal to remove the two util boxes and put the wires back into the furnace.
this place wants $30 per PDU and said they'll give me a bunch of shielded power cables with it
I contacted a place local that sells old hardware, they have some PDUs. some are 20a max and some are 30a.
some have L6-20 and some have L6-30.
this is my plan right now:
wire two L6-30 220v outlets from the existing wires running into the furnace.
buy two L6-30 PDUs with 30a max from this place, they want $30 a piece
if I want to go back to using the furnace at some point it'll be just a simple deal to remove the two util boxes and put the wires back into the furnace.
this place wants $30 per PDU and said they'll give me a bunch of shielded power cables with it
Sounds good enough to me.
ok.
I contacted a place local that sells old hardware, they have some PDUs. some are 20a max and some are 30a.
some have L6-20 and some have L6-30.
this is my plan right now:
wire two L6-30 220v outlets from the existing wires running into the furnace.
buy two L6-30 PDUs with 30a max from this place, they want $30 a piece
if I want to go back to using the furnace at some point it'll be just a simple deal to remove the two util boxes and put the wires back into the furnace.
this place wants $30 per PDU and said they'll give me a bunch of shielded power cables with it
I contacted a place local that sells old hardware, they have some PDUs. some are 20a max and some are 30a.
some have L6-20 and some have L6-30.
this is my plan right now:
wire two L6-30 220v outlets from the existing wires running into the furnace.
buy two L6-30 PDUs with 30a max from this place, they want $30 a piece
if I want to go back to using the furnace at some point it'll be just a simple deal to remove the two util boxes and put the wires back into the furnace.
this place wants $30 per PDU and said they'll give me a bunch of shielded power cables with it
You're looking to run 19 S1s, correct?
You can downrate a receptacle, so here would be my minimal cost suggestion if you don't want your electric heater anymore.
Install two utility boxes with a L630R. (~$50)
Wire the two existing 50A lines to them.
Buy two of the PM10i-30a's (~$100)
Plug all your PSUs into the PDUs.
Plug the fans/switches into a 15/20A 120V circuit on the wall.
You can downrate a receptacle, so here would be my minimal cost suggestion if you don't want your electric heater anymore.
Install two utility boxes with a L630R. (~$50)
Wire the two existing 50A lines to them.
Buy two of the PM10i-30a's (~$100)
Plug all your PSUs into the PDUs.
Plug the fans/switches into a 15/20A 120V circuit on the wall.
+1
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Avocent-Cyclades-PM10i-Intelligent-PDU-Rack-Mount-PM-10i-30A-/151383789679?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item233f2d506f
this one that was linked shows 30a max??
that's really not enough, I guess I've had to have like three of these...
PDUs have two ratings. The first is the total rating, which in that case is 30A. The second is the per-outlet rating, in this case 10A. Why would you need 3 of them?this one that was linked shows 30a max??
that's really not enough, I guess I've had to have like three of these...
For instance, while the Pulizzi one you linked has 24 C13 sockets (so probably 10-13A rated each), the whole bar is only rated to 20A in total.
Three phase.
You're looking to run 19 S1s, correct?
You can downrate a receptacle, so here would be my minimal cost suggestion if you don't want your electric heater anymore.
Install two utility boxes with a L630R. (~$50)
Wire the two existing 50A lines to them.
Buy two of the PM10i-30a's (~$100)
Plug all your PSUs into the PDUs.
Plug the fans/switches into a 15/20A 120V circuit on the wall.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Avocent-Cyclades-PM10i-Intelligent-PDU-Rack-Mount-PM-10i-30A-/151383789679?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item233f2d506f
this one that was linked shows 30a max??
that's really not enough, I guess I've had to have like three of these...
this one that was linked shows 30a max??
that's really not enough, I guess I've had to have like three of these...
is that 20a per outlet??
how would I put more than one 240v socket if there is only one set of wires?
Junction box, or perhaps a 60A subpanel.
All is not lost though, you still could put a couple 240V PDUs onto one of those circuits. As I linked, you could pick up a couple of cheap managed PDUs for $100 shipped. Any modern PSU can handle 240V and will be more efficient that way anyway.
how would I put more than one 240v socket if there is only one set of wires?
i'm a software eng and one of my clients has a IT business, i'll try to get whatever old ones he has lying around for free
ok this one has a decent explanation, it says max output 16a per socket
I have one of those, they're quite nice. Personally though, if I were buying more, I'd go with the Avocent posted as it's managed.
ok this one has a decent explanation, it says max output 16a per socket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dell-Metered-LCD-Power-Distribution-Unit-PDU-200V-240V-24A-G740N-DELL6802-/221474734973?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item3390ec437d
ok this one actually gives a good look at it, looks like I'll have to make a 240v plug for this one to work.
ok this one actually gives a good look at it, looks like I'll have to make a 240v plug for this one to work.
I also don't understand how they rate the PDUs. some of them say like max 16a?
I guess I didn't really look hard enough at first it does say 240v on the furnace. I was looking at the other thing on the plate
it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
So, short answer is no, you can't run normal 120V stuff on this circuit as it doesn't look like there is a neutral.it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
All is not lost though, you still could put a couple 240V PDUs onto one of those circuits. As I linked, you could pick up a couple of cheap managed PDUs for $100 shipped. Any modern PSU can handle 240V and will be more efficient that way anyway.
ok I've seen a few PDUs for cheap on ebay or craigslist.
I've never used one before. how does it work? do I run the two 240v wires into it? or do I need to wire up a 240v plug??? I made the one for our dryer, so I've done that before.
just not sure how they work,
I guess I didn't really look hard enough at first it does say 240v on the furnace. I was looking at the other thing on the plate
it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
So, short answer is no, you can't run normal 120V stuff on this circuit as it doesn't look like there is a neutral.it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
All is not lost though, you still could put a couple 240V PDUs onto one of those circuits. As I linked, you could pick up a couple of cheap managed PDUs for $100 shipped. Any modern PSU can handle 240V and will be more efficient that way anyway.
btw the scary circuit is going to the range
I guess I didn't really look hard enough at first it does say 240v on the furnace. I was looking at the other thing on the plate
it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
it says 208 - 240v (120v ground) 60hz
plate on furnace:
breakers on furnace:
wires going into furnace:
breakers on furnace:
wires going into furnace:
what can I do with the wires running into the furnace to be able to plug in some normal 110 plugs into it? is there something I can do myself?
Can you post a picture of the furnace nameplate? If there is 3 conductor cable running to the furnace, it's physically possible that you could be running at 110V. It would be extremely weird though. Often what you will see is that you'll have the element run off 240V at high current, and then lower draw items like the fan motor and the control systems will run off one of the 120V legs.ok just a min
what can I do with the wires running into the furnace to be able to plug in some normal 110 plugs into it? is there something I can do myself?
Can you post a picture of the furnace nameplate? If there is 3 conductor cable running to the furnace, it's physically possible that you could be running at 110V. It would be extremely weird though. Often what you will see is that you'll have the element run off 240V at high current, and then lower draw items like the fan motor and the control systems will run off one of the 120V legs.
Here's what I did with my setup. It's a little different situation because I have a 200A main breaker box with plenty of room.
Here is the new 60A 220V breaker added to my main box with a 6awg 3 conductor wire leading to my sub panel:
http://i.imgur.com/uxO8y4C.jpg?2
Here is my sub panel. I decided to go with 15A 110V breakers with a single breaker per 1000-1300W power supply. I used 14 awg nema13 power cords and cut them off to wire them directly to the breakers, thus saving money on recepticals, outlets, boxes, condutit, etc. I checked with a couple power guys and everything seems to still meet code.
http://i.imgur.com/qflcK84.jpg?2
Here is the box all covered up. The big 'breaker' with the white label is actually a whole home surge protector. I didn't want to waste my money on PDUs or individual surge protectors so this was a good solution for everything on the sub box.
http://i.imgur.com/292lBzj.jpg?1
Here's the whole cabinet. Obviously this is a little easier to do in a cage but could pretty easily be mounted on a wall next to your shelf-type setup.
http://i.imgur.com/9BY0AcL.jpg?2
http://i.imgur.com/szIaOjW.jpg?2
Here is the new 60A 220V breaker added to my main box with a 6awg 3 conductor wire leading to my sub panel:
http://i.imgur.com/uxO8y4C.jpg?2
Here is my sub panel. I decided to go with 15A 110V breakers with a single breaker per 1000-1300W power supply. I used 14 awg nema13 power cords and cut them off to wire them directly to the breakers, thus saving money on recepticals, outlets, boxes, condutit, etc. I checked with a couple power guys and everything seems to still meet code.
http://i.imgur.com/qflcK84.jpg?2
Here is the box all covered up. The big 'breaker' with the white label is actually a whole home surge protector. I didn't want to waste my money on PDUs or individual surge protectors so this was a good solution for everything on the sub box.
http://i.imgur.com/292lBzj.jpg?1
Here's the whole cabinet. Obviously this is a little easier to do in a cage but could pretty easily be mounted on a wall next to your shelf-type setup.
http://i.imgur.com/9BY0AcL.jpg?2
http://i.imgur.com/szIaOjW.jpg?2
what can I do with the wires running into the furnace to be able to plug in some normal 110 plugs into it? is there something I can do myself?
yea I won't be doing any reno on this house its really old. this is the first house I bought about 6 or 7 years ago when I was 24.
my furnace says 110v right on it. how can it be fed with 240v? I need more info.
my furnace says 110v right on it. how can it be fed with 240v? I need more info.
Here's a visual:
Those two 50A breakers with the black and red wires are two pole 240V breakers. You should be fine to run a 50A 240V branch circuit off of one of them. What gauge is the wire going into it, 8?
That panel is scary as shit though. That 40A breaker looks like it has 12/2 running into it, and it's using the white neutral as one of the hots. If you're ever doing a major reno, you should think about redoing a bunch of your wiring.
That panel is scary as shit though. That 40A breaker looks like it has 12/2 running into it, and it's using the white neutral as one of the hots. If you're ever doing a major reno, you should think about redoing a bunch of your wiring.
yea I won't be doing any reno on this house its really old. this is the first house I bought about 6 or 7 years ago when I was 24.
my furnace says 110v right on it. how can it be fed with 240v? I need more info.
Those two 50A breakers with the black and red wires are two pole 240V breakers. You should be fine to run a 50A 240V branch circuit off of one of them. What gauge is the wire going into it, 8?
That panel is scary as shit though. That 40A breaker looks like it has 12/2 running into it, and it's using the white neutral as one of the hots. If you're ever doing a major reno, you should think about redoing a bunch of your wiring.
That panel is scary as shit though. That 40A breaker looks like it has 12/2 running into it, and it's using the white neutral as one of the hots. If you're ever doing a major reno, you should think about redoing a bunch of your wiring.
I find the american rating system very strange, ie 30A is only 24A 24/7. British standards fuses for 30A are usually 36A 24/7.
would it help if I took a picture of the panel in my house? i'll take a picture real fast then post it here in a few mins
Sure.
would it help if I took a picture of the panel in my house? i'll take a picture real fast then post it here in a few mins
Do you actually two 50A breakers each with their own run of 6AWG, or do you mean you have a 240V/50A circuit that has a double breaker with a bar through it so they both trip at the same time?
You can't feed a sub panel with two 50A circuits, that would be against code. You wouldn't want 100A (or even 70-80A) of mining gear on a 120A service anyway though, you would have frequent nuisance tripping unless you live like the Amish in all the other aspects of your life.
If I were you I would just pull a permit to install a ~60A (or 50A if you do have a 240V/50A circuit already), and branch that out to a couple L6-30R receptacles. Pick up a couple 240V PDUs (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Avocent-Cyclades-PM10i-Intelligent-PDU-Rack-Mount-PM-10i-30A-/151383789679?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item233f2d506f) and you're good to go. Not sure about your utility but a permit for that would only cost me $50, and it's well worth it.
You can't feed a sub panel with two 50A circuits, that would be against code. You wouldn't want 100A (or even 70-80A) of mining gear on a 120A service anyway though, you would have frequent nuisance tripping unless you live like the Amish in all the other aspects of your life.
If I were you I would just pull a permit to install a ~60A (or 50A if you do have a 240V/50A circuit already), and branch that out to a couple L6-30R receptacles. Pick up a couple 240V PDUs (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Avocent-Cyclades-PM10i-Intelligent-PDU-Rack-Mount-PM-10i-30A-/151383789679?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item233f2d506f) and you're good to go. Not sure about your utility but a permit for that would only cost me $50, and it's well worth it.
its 110v
when I turned off the circuit for the furnace I had to turn them off one at a time. they didn't seem connected. the furnace also has two breakers inside it. I haven't taken the panel off the furnace to see if there is actually two sets of wires or just one set going to it.
eh I don't really want to pay anyone lol
If you screw up and it burns your house down, your insurance company might not cover you.
Have you ever dealt with home wiring before? It's really not that hard, but there's a very real risk of personal injury or property damage associated.
This. Its less about doing it right and more about doing it against code/law/policy which you almost certainly will breaking by doing it yourself. Have a look at your insurance policy.
Will only cost you $200 or so to get it done, but $10,000s to do it wrong.
I have worked with home electrical systems before but i'm not an electrician.
but i'm willing to hear what is wrong with putting another breaker box off that 100amp circuit, with 20amp breakers inside and some wiring to a few plugs
You can't feed a sub panel with two 50A circuits, that would be against code. You wouldn't want 100A (or even 70-80A) of mining gear on a 120A service anyway though, you would have frequent nuisance tripping unless you live like the Amish in all the other aspects of your life.
If I were you I would just pull a permit to install a ~60A (or 50A if you do have a 240V/50A circuit already), and branch that out to a couple L6-30R receptacles. Pick up a couple 240V PDUs (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Avocent-Cyclades-PM10i-Intelligent-PDU-Rack-Mount-PM-10i-30A-/151383789679?pt=US_Power_Distribution_Units&hash=item233f2d506f) and you're good to go. Not sure about your utility but a permit for that would only cost me $50, and it's well worth it.
tldr, get an electrician in to wire up some 240V sockets from the 50A circuits. PDU from those sockets into useful mining outlets.
+1 to this, with a little mod. I paid an electrician to remove the 50A circuits I had and install 2x30A circuits. Originally i wanted him to just use the 50A but he said if I had 30A PDUs I should have a 30A circuit, which is wired accordingly. Perhaps it is a lot safer, or perhaps he just wanted to bill me for the additional work.
Regardless, from there I bought 2 x 208v AP7811 PDUs on eBay (around $200 each). With 24 Antminer S3s, each PDU runs at about 18A with no problems at all. Included a pic for reference, it's nothing crazy but for a home system that's been running a while it's safe and, of course, a lot of fun.
eh I don't really want to pay anyone lol
If you screw up and it burns your house down, your insurance company might not cover you.
Have you ever dealt with home wiring before? It's really not that hard, but there's a very real risk of personal injury or property damage associated.
This. Its less about doing it right and more about doing it against code/law/policy which you almost certainly will breaking by doing it yourself. Have a look at your insurance policy.
Will only cost you $200 or so to get it done, but $10,000s to do it wrong.
I have worked with home electrical systems before but i'm not an electrician.
but i'm willing to hear what is wrong with putting another breaker box off that 100amp circuit, with 20amp breakers inside and some wiring to a few plugs
eh I don't really want to pay anyone lol
If you screw up and it burns your house down, your insurance company might not cover you.
Have you ever dealt with home wiring before? It's really not that hard, but there's a very real risk of personal injury or property damage associated.
This. Its less about doing it right and more about doing it against code/law/policy which you almost certainly will breaking by doing it yourself. Have a look at your insurance policy.
Will only cost you $200 or so to get it done, but $10,000s to do it wrong.
eh I don't really want to pay anyone lol
If you screw up and it burns your house down, your insurance company might not cover you.
Have you ever dealt with home wiring before? It's really not that hard, but there's a very real risk of personal injury or property damage associated.
tldr, get an electrician in to wire up some 240V sockets from the 50A circuits. PDU from those sockets into useful mining outlets.
eh I don't really want to pay anyone lol
tldr, get an electrician in to wire up some 240V sockets from the 50A circuits. PDU from those sockets into useful mining outlets.
I thought about it and I think this evening i'm going to buy a small breaker box, some 20amp breakers and some wiring and outlets. and wire it up like another small breaker box, I think this is the correct way to do it.
so i have 19 ant s1 running normal 180ghash and one bw... ive got 5 per circuit and two switches and three box fans.
the circuits are all 20amp/2400w
all of the circuits should be running under 2000w, a little buffer before trippage.... my main house plug circuit is 120amps....
i have a 110 electric furnace it is on two 50amp circuits. i use a wood stove for heat, but will use miners for heat this winter...
my question is how to get two heavy gauge wires down to a strip of 110 plugs, im obviously not a electrician... is this what pdus are for?? it there something i can buy at a normal hardware store to step it down into a row of plugs???
i have 5 more s1s i need power for lol...
the circuits are all 20amp/2400w
all of the circuits should be running under 2000w, a little buffer before trippage.... my main house plug circuit is 120amps....
i have a 110 electric furnace it is on two 50amp circuits. i use a wood stove for heat, but will use miners for heat this winter...
my question is how to get two heavy gauge wires down to a strip of 110 plugs, im obviously not a electrician... is this what pdus are for?? it there something i can buy at a normal hardware store to step it down into a row of plugs???
i have 5 more s1s i need power for lol...
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