Topic: [GUIDE] Jesse's Official Overclocking (voltmod) Guide For G-Blade & Gridseeds v2 (Read 11079 times)

Not sure, hoping to find out. If they are though I'll let you know.

Are those guys actually legit?

Jesse,

Do you still work with the guys at sevengnomes? I'm looking to have some GS rounds modded.

Chad

Jess...

What's happening with G-Blade guide...?

Did you forget...or NDA...

ZiG

Can someone make a youtube tutorial for noobs?

Can someone please confirm that this mofset will work with our Grids?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SI7456DP-Vishay-Siliconix-Mosfet-N-So-8-/130943957886?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1e7cde3b7e

Does anyone know where I can purchase the FB26 from? Its the one between the usb plug and the gold mounting standoff...

Thx

Hi,
What is the resistor above of blue circle and the last 2 resistor at the right side of r52?
Mine came off while trying to clean the extra solder
And what size of wire did you use?
Thanks

Great guide, thanks for the updates!

Keep up the great work

No problem, just watch out if you replace the thermal pad with a (good) thermal paste: you must mill the heatskin over the U20 chip and the oscillator, and also check by pressing the heatsink a couple of times that the paste touch evenly every chips...
Some gridseed that I've modded have a the heatsink fins too long and when you remove the pad they touch each other, only solution is to mill the fins a couple of mm or replace the original pad with a better one (like phobya)

This is Nemercry's photo contribution given only to highlight where to place the optional cooling pad/shrim. For anything else going on in that photo I would recommend referring to Nemercry directly.

Hello michelem,

actually that was just my first test unit and the mod used there is outdated.
Just replace the R52 thats all you need abnd the best you'll get.

just tried the first mod and it didnt work for ne, kept getting unrecognizable device in windows, i reversed it and it worked. but what what went wrong

hey many thanks Decagrog! I'm going to try it. I have seen your mod, very well done, as soon as I brake one of my pods I will send to you of course

Do you (dudes) know why the last picture (figure 12) of this guide shows an axial resistor in the "mod area"? Is it only an arbitrary choice? I mean, may be in that pod @jess85 tried an axial instead an SMD?

This is the photo

tried using a graphite pencil, guess that only works on bit furys :p

To my knowledge you would have to remove VMOD1 completely before performing VMOD3. If you try running both at the same, if it works or not, please report here your results so we have another testimonial to go by.

Regarding your second question, if you find out how, let me know and I will add to guide.

Would I have to undue Vmod 1 to do Vmod 3?
If so, and to clarify, is there anyway to leave Vmod 1 in place and add a different sized resistor at the R52 location or other location for example to get Vmod 3 results?

so great work on the tut there.

Small tip for removing the resisitor R52 - or any smd resistor -  without tweezers is to put a bit of solder on each end of the resistor and drag it across the top to form a solder bridge. then heat it up and lift/pull it off. BE warned though doing it this way pretty much makes the resistor unuseable as its buried in the solder.

Damm, not what I wanted to hear, I wish there was an easier way. I hope its not only 3 Modded Seeds per 6-pin Id find that such a waste If you ask me..


i just had a thought to find out EXACTLY how much the 6 or 8 pin are pulling from my 290x OC mining... Tomorrow when I get up , I am going to plug a watt-meter to one of the PSU's - I'll have 3 PSU's on one rig using 2 x add2psu adapter for this test, Now I actually have one of my cards split off into 2 PSU's 6pin in 1 and the 8pin in the other - ppl used to say this isnt good, well i have been doing it for months as I dont see any issue with it, the card is what controls the power coming in and will only take whats needed so doesnt really matter where the power is coming from... anyway here is what I will do.. 1st right down the number on the wattmeter when only 8 pin is plugged in & mining, the 6 pin will be in the other PSU which I am not measuring... once written the wattage number that the PSU with 8 pin is in only, ill reboot but this time have both 6 + 8pin start mining again and then right the figures down... The difference in the numbers will give me the amount the 6pin was pulling as it was missing 1st and then re-measured with it plugged in the same psu. I will then repeat but this time with the 8 pin.

Since the 290x is known to take 300w+ I will now know more accurately what these cables will handle safely as I have been running these cards like this for months without a single glitch the cables are not hot at all.

EDIT:  Ok Guys so I did it and its just what I thought the specs that have been stated much around the net are greatly reduced to what these connectors can really handle... As that guy researched seems to be correct, I did the test myself with the watt-meter to see what the 290x is actually pulling from these connectors, lets not forget I have been running like this for months with all PSU 80+ Gold Corsair not a single issue, I never needed to do the test before though so never I bothered to chuck the watt-meter on it for this specific purpose ... Heres what I found... My 290x was OC  above the normal frequency/clocks and I told Cgminer to allow 30% more power if needed, but I only allow maximum fan speed to be 85% unless overheat is detected, No overheat was detected for this test so only 85% of the fan speed was in use.

RESULTS (Only what the connectors pull from a 290x)

Total watt For 6PIN & 8PIN = 310-315Watt <<<< This is ONLY the PSU PCIE-connectors I did NOT measure what the MB slot is pulling so really it would be 315watt + Whatever the MB slot is taking..... FYI if your interested - I was using a 16x to 1x Riser, Unpowered since the MB has its dedicated power for the PCIe


6 Pin - 100w - 105w

8 pin - 205w -210w

Well above the famous specs, as I thought, AMD would know this and would not release a card needing the 6 & 8PIN knowing that the card exceeds the connectors specs.

Please note - the above power is only what the 290x is asking from the connectors who knows how much more these connectors can give out, and I am betting its what the guy on my previous post >>> https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.6307446 has researched, 6 Pin @ 192watt and the 8Pin @ 288watt

If you exceed the specs...the wires/connectors are gong to get hot...eventually could melt ...and cause short or fire...do it @ your own risk, buddy...

EDIT...: If the Gridseeds are starving for power...they could act the way they want...UNPREDICTABLE... I guess...

I actually JUST --made ROI on mine + I now have a Quadfire 290x Build happening, and I have all MY top quality PSU's and motherboards laying around I will build my mate a good computer for $500 so this will put me more in front... If I sold all my setup I would be quite a good percentage over ROI----this is because I was able to source my Cards VERY cheap I actually sold some for the amount I bought them ... I had very similar to you in Hashwise, But I wanted the least possible $ spent with the least possible room taken.... Total 14 x 290x on 2 Rigs - 7 x 290x per Rig.. Yeh as that guys research makes so much more sense basically almost 400w for a 1 x 6PIN & 1 x 8PIN...

lets just say I was going to try it and there is not enough power, this will not cause my seeds to blow right? they just wont turn on or soemthing yeh?

What I was stating is the STANDARD specs for 6- and 8-pin PCI-E connector...
Of course nobody is preventing you from trying to suck few more Amp out of them...over the rated specs...Like overclocking the CPU/GPU...at your own risk...they have some reserves...

Your question was how many Gridseeds to run of them...

Maybe 5...and 10 max...but you are pushing it...

GPU is getting additional 75 W from the PCI-E slot 16x or 8x ...I did not mention that because Gridseeds don't use PCI-E slot or interface...

This is not invalidating the PCI-E specs above...

FYI...I used to run 5 GPU rigs...3 x 290x each...14MH total...just sold them last week at lost...

Yeh I forgot about the Actual Slot itself So with the Slot itself this is 300w Total, for a 290x Still though there must be quite abit of le-way available because these cards are great overclockers and even encouraged to be overclocked so stock @ 300w when they are running at 100% And the manufacturers allow some Overclocking meaning it will go over the standard 300w that the company states as being standard, I mean the companies create software to overclock the 290x, And all that is requited is 1 x 6pin & 1 x 8 Pin and of course the 75 watt Motherboard slot that you stated. Which makes me think, I really Doubt a company will create a card that reaches the PCI-E connectors ABSOLUTE limit as-well as the Motherboard slots ABSOLUTE limit. I have overclocked my cards witch went over and beyond the 300w limit and in fact I have some right this moment running in my 1200w With Powertune 20%+ and Memory clocked over the standard all day every day.... I am going to do some research on this because it does not seem right being 75w & 150w and then 75w from the slot when the card can go over the 300w.


EDIT::  OK guys I did some research and found a thread that had a few people wondering also and someone who ended up doing the research found the following  Bellow-

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Dear Johnny & the group,

Have learned several interesting facts about the PCI-E plugs and power after researching it this past week, that is worth sharing

The PCI-E connecter that has 6 pins. They are not all used for power. For the 6 pin connector, Pins 1 & 3 are 12V & each can carry 8 Amps. Pin 2 by spec is not connected, although some PSU manufacturers do add a 12V line there. Pins 4 & 6 are Com return lines. Pin5 is Com for sensing. Using 2 lines, you get 12V*8A*2= 192Watts, much over the required 75Watts.

With an 8 pin PCI-E connector, 2 Com lines are added (4&Cool not a 12V & Com. There, Pins 1,2,3 are 12V, Pin 4 is a Com for the 8 pin connector sensing, Pin 5,7,8 are Com return lines, & pin 6 is for the 6 pin connector sensing. Using that config, 12V*8Amp*3=288 Watts, much over the required 150Watts.

Since Mar 2005, the molex pins are required to be "HCS" rather than "Std", which each carry a max of 11Amps. So properly made, an 8 pin PCI-e can supply 12V*11Amps*3lines=396Watts of power for the graphic cards.

Ther aren't 4 12V pins on the 8 pin connector, only 3, and 2 leads are used for sensing the connector type.

The other limiting factor of course is the width of the PCB lines on the graphics card, each typically carrying 1-2 Amps. That would also determine how much power it could carry to the graphics electronics.
Also worth noting Scott Meuller in his latest 19th Ed of "Upgrading and Repairing PCs" has this information incorrectly listed.

Hope that answers most of the questions regarding this unusually engineered connector."

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Interesting ay, now that makes a little more sense to me if thats the case , like I said I really doubt AMD will create a card using the ABSOLUTE connector and MB limit, this is ridiculous and will be frying PCIE connectors MB slots all over the place

Power[edit]
All sizes of ×4 and ×8 PCI Express cards are allowed a maximum power consumption of 25 W. All ×1 cards are initially 10 W; full-height cards may configure themselves as 'high-power' to reach 25 W, while half-height ×1 cards are fixed at 10 W. All sizes of ×16 cards are initially 25 W; like ×1 cards, half-height cards are limited to this number while full-height cards may increase their power after configuration. They can use up to 75 W (3.3 V/3 A + 12 V/5.5 A), though the specification demands that the higher-power configuration be used for graphics cards only, while cards of other purposes are to remain at 25 W.[9][10] Optional connectors add 75 W (6-pin) or 150 W (8-pin) power for up to 300 W total (2×75 W + 1×150 W). Some cards are using two 8-pin connectors, but this has not been standardized yet, therefore such cards must not carry the official PCI-Express logo. This configuration would allow 375 W total (1×75 W + 2×150 W) and will likely be standardized by PCI-SIG with the PCI-Express 4.0 standard. The 8-pin PCI-Express connector could be mistaken with the EPS12V connector, which is mainly used for powering SMP and multi-core systems.

there is the Power spec's per Wikipedia.  so the Slot itself offers up half of the power. and then the connectors offer the additional power needed by the card.

El

I keep hearing this and I need to once and for all get pure clarification about this - I have heard exactly what Zig has said any times so
Thanks zig ,

But this is where I am totally confused, I am a GPU miner recently moving to mostly asic with some GPUs left for N-Scrypt, My Peak GPU rig was 2 x Motherboard with 7 x 290x on each 14 x 290x Cards and most of them OC = LOT OF POWER DRAW lol , now this theory of 75 & 150w I cant help but think this cannot be correct.

heres why, I have tested 1x 290x on 1 Single PCIE which branchs off into a 6PIN + 6+2Pin  and I am talking these are on day and night non-stop and this is just over 300w with a some minor OC - 1 single 290x overclocked can suck more than 300w On its own.... Infact I have heard of OC 290x sucking as much as 360w On there own. And this is all coming from 1x 6pin and 1 x 8pin

Hey great guide! It's exactly what we need Thanks!

Can you please attach an image of the 5V USB FAN mod too? I mean I'm looking for where to connect the wires to get 5v power from the USB's pod instead the 12v.

I just unsoldered the fan wires and connected them to an external USB cable, but it will be better using the USB pod instead an external cable.

I think this is the mod but from this pic I can't distinguish where to solder the red wire.



Thanks!

Single 6-pin PCI-E Connector is rated @ 75W ...12V power delivery...about 6.5 Amp = 3 OC gridseed...

Single 8-pin PCI-E Connector is rated @ 150W ...12V power delivery...about 13 Amp = 6 OC gridseed...

Hope it helps, buddy...

ZiG

Thanks, Ok so lets just say I have 1200watt available .. What I was asking is will 1 single 6PIN Pcie connector going into 10 Barrels -be sufficient for 10 v3modded grids? Since they are like 20-25watt each thats like 250watt max On a single 6PIN, .... I have a few here that came with my grids, 1 PCIE (6pin) going into 10 barrels, but this was created for unmodded pods which is why i am not sure if we can still plug 10 in if they are modded.

The amount of power plugs (or barrels) which you can connect is directly determined by the amount of watt you have available. (Amount of watt you have) divided by (the amount of devices you want to power * the watt each requires). If the result is less than 1.00 then Bad. If over 1.00 then Good


All of the 5v fan mods I've seen on this forum required it be draw from the circuit board, and from board user and personal experience that I have seen so far, that has only led to testimonials of device instability in one form or another. I don't have a method for external power supplementation for 5v fans, but that would be an option, however anyone going through those efforts is better off implementing more efficient cooling methods.
If you have tested a 5v fan mod that has worked stably for you please let me know and I will update the guide with it right away!


I love when new methods come out but before I recommend them I would need some confirmation for their reliability and efficiency. If anyone tests them please let me know how effective/durable they are and whether their results compare with soldered bridges.

You are very welcome. You deserve it
Thermal pad suggestion added!

I am wondering, and more people may be aswell, you may want to add it to the Op - when they are modded with the vmod3 for eg: Will the PCIE -> 10 barrel connectors still work? How many barrels can you manage of the 6 pin Pcie connector, as I am guessing it will reduce the amount of grids you can connect to 1 Pcie connector due to the higher wattage.

Did you know how to do the 5v fan Mod? I would love to know how to do this, your guides are the most clearest I have ever come across, Even if you just use other peoples pictures and a good illustration you dont have to bother doing HD pics for the 5v fan mod if you do not want to - I would just love to get an idea around this also as the vmod3 + Cooling + 5v fan , I beleive are the perfect combo

has anyone heard of Electrical aluminium conduct tape? Bascially from what I read its tape which is like metal so it creates a link I was thinking instead of soldering bridge couldnt you just cut the tiniest peice and stick it over the 2 contacts you want to bridge, if you ever want to get rid of it just peel it back off and thats it

What about Copper shrims 15mmx15mm covering each individual chip and applying some good thermal compound paste 5.6wMK?









You think  1.5mm?? Hmm I saw originally people using 0.5mm pads? so I thought I will do one better and get 1mm just incase, now I see 1.5mm lol Argghh.. you really think 1mm is too small? Also I am using 4g Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound Paste----      Thermal Conductivity                W/(mK)5.6    Maybe I should also get a bunch off 1.5mm shrims also, they are VERY cheap and cut perfectly into shape and provide the best W/(mK)--- so I thought you cant loose here. Do you think I should apply past to top and bottom off the shrim? And by applying the shrims this means I will not have to tighten down the heatsink as much is this right?

Thanks for naming the people who where involved in this.

Great appreciation for doing this and helping the community.
There is one proposal which i would want to make:
Instead of using thermal paste use thermal pads, and place them in the way like this:

Black should be the thermal pad. Red is the area which should not be covered by the thermal pad.

Problem with the thermal paste is that the heatsink actually lies on the red parts and if you tighten the screws too much you risk to crack soldering of those parts. ( I had this on 5 units, which i needed to resolder and from now on i stick only with thermal pads.

I'll recommend this one: http://www.amazon.de/Phobya-W%C3%A4rmeleitpad-XT-1x120x20-wei%C3%9F/dp/B0051C287K

Maybe use 1.5mm instead of 1mm? (I read the height of other components are not allowing a good contact with the heatsink)

What thermal silicone paste are you using or do you even need any with this pad?

Do you know exactly what solder was used? What should I set my reflow at?

Awesome, yeh I just noticed they said extra heat dispense stuff is  needed, they must do a good job to get 1200mhz with the same results as the lower resistor, I am guessing it will probably be at 530khs - Well you know what I have in the mail, 15mmx15mm square 1mm Copper shrims

And some good thermal past better that that silver stuff...

just wondering though with the shrim how would you recommend placing it on the chips? would you do 5 shrims per device and put thermal paste between the shrim and the chip and also between the shrim and the seed heatsink?

What do you think?

Credits added.
I've went through the loops trying to figure out how to format this guide. If you know how to define table sizes (html bracket is disabled for non-admin users) or alignments (I've tried right alignment feature already) let me know and I will make the updates right away



It is a higher resistor, but if you go any higher than 49.9k it is necessary to treat the devices with further mods to increase the efficiency and lifespan of the device. A coolant application is listed in the service description as one of these mods. There is more that can be done and I will clear this up with Seven Gnomes. There is no use running them faster if it dies within a month.

Edit: It appears more was already being done to increase the efficiency and lifespan of the device, I spoke to management, it is now also listed on their service page.

They're prob using a higher resister value. I think you can go up to 54k before the GDS fails to turn on. Nemercy did the test.

AWESOME WORK - THANK YOU FINALLY

Also have you heard of Vmod4?

Check this out these guys are doing it they state Less than 5HW errors per day at 1250 Stable and they are selling there seeds like this

https://www.sevengnomes.com/index.php/asics/modded-gridseed.html

I wonder if Vmod4 is just a higher kohm resistor?

You know how you mention the 47k resistor? Well the 49.9k is what I am getting and many are able to run 1200 stable at 510-513Kh less than <5hw per 24hr

Could be just me but please source these (Andareed, Nemercy).
Also, for some odd reason, everything is left aligned :/

Other than that, great tutorial. I would totally recomend a SMD rework station (Small $50 Yihua 858D) for the VMOD3. Also, hold everything down with kapton tape (Its a heat resistant tape. Perfect for SMD soldering)

Upcoming:
- G-Blade VMOD1 is now available here. I am working with the guys at Seven Gnomes to improve the current version and will let you know more details about it soon. In the meantime here are a few pics I was able to snag for ya'll. More to come!


- Miner software, software environment (including raspberry pi), and Litecoin pool comparison + step by step setup guide.


Changelog:
- Coolant pad option added
- Reversible VMOD3 added (Courtesy of ZiG)

Hey all  

I know there's been a great demand for a clear guide on how to mod your Gridseeds with clear high quality step by step images, what to do, what not to do, and actual expected results of each mod. Basically, the ultimate Gridseed modding guide for dummies. I can't promise I will succeed, but I'm sure going to try! In this guide I will cover VMOD1 and VMOD3 which essentially allow for the Gridseeds to run on average weekly (so far) speeds of 405kh/s to 510kh/s, respectively.

I will make the greatest efforts to talk in a simple and clear language as if it is your first time picking up a soldering iron. This is a work-in-progress guide and I am open to questions and comments for improvements so please feel free to PM me any time!

Prep 1) Here is what you'll need (links to demonstrate the correct supplies at the end):

• Soldering Iron
• Soldering Tweezers (VMOD3 only) (optional)
• Regular Tweezers (VMOD3 and rVMOD3)
• Magnifying Loupe
• No-Clean Solder wire
• 47k 1% 0402 resistor (VMOD3 only)
• 47k 1% Axial resistor (rVMOD3 only)
• Liquid Flux (VMOD3 only) (optional)
• Thermal Grease (non-conductive AND non-capacitive) (optional)
• Lighting
• 1 Heat resistant glove (if you buy lead wire, safety first)
• A comfortable chair and a desk at chest level (when sitting). Make sure the desk is a flat stable surface with a decent amount of friction so the G-Blade or Gridseed doesn't move.

Prep 2) Decide which mod is for you. (DO NOT TRY TO PERFORM ANY COMBINATION OF MODS ON ONE DEVICE, IT WILL NOT MAKE IT RUN FASTER AND WILL RISK DESTROYING YOUR DEVICE, YOUR HOME, YOURSELF, OR YOUR CONTINENT)

VMOD1: Up to freq=963 @ 9 +/-2 watt. Average weekly speed of 405kh/s. Can run fanless in a cool room (but not recommended). Difficulty: Medium. http://i.imgur.com/ktMpVIi.gif VMOD3: Up to freq=1175 @ 30 +/-4 watt. Average weekly speeds of 510kh/s. Can NOT run fanless. Difficulty: Hard (you will be dealing with components the size of a leg of an ant). [see Figure 0] Reversible VMOD3: Same as VMOD3 but allows you to easily revert back to Factory speeds & power draw.

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