Topic: How to wire your s17's and t17's diy (Read 292 times)

I'm not an electrician nor an electrical engineer but have had to learn way more than necessary about this in order to solve tons of electrical issues with miners and 3 phase input.

My original farm ran on single phase 240v and problems were pretty much minimal. Once we grew into a larger facility, three phase was the name of the game and boy does it bring with it a whole host of issues. From your information, it seems that you're running some sort of "split-phase" electrical system despite having three hot wires coming in (can't really figure out how you get 220v on a line to line basis unless your utility is providing you with really high 120v (electrical experts please chime in!).

Shutting down the freezer might sound like a good idea but if it's powered by the same system as the miners you're going to get a ton of noise in the lines when you power it back up. Not sure if this would defeat Verizon's impact on your farm. We've tried to isolate power to the miners as much as possible and when necessary, we only run fixed speed/drive fans, etc on the miners' lines. We've found this to reduce most "in-house" noise. Putting an additional transformer between the freezer and the miners may help (it did in our case for ventilation/switches/etc) but I can't really vouch for this as, as previously mentioned, I'm not an expert on these matters.

We do have an "expert" that recommended we do this. He also ran a scope meter on our lines and a logger for 24hrs and pretty much told us that 1) we had a ton of outside noise and 2) his solutions were prohibitively expensive (UPS system for miners, yeah right; active noise filters; surge protectors; etc.). Out of all of the recommendations we definitely took a few home such as cleaning up the electrical wiring and installing certain affordable forms of surge protection but, as our "expert" put it, you can't really fix your power quality issues completely (100% clean power is only possible in mathematics equations). Garbage in = Garbage out. PM me if you want more details of certain things we did to improve our situation. I completely understand your concern. We have public water pumps sharing our lines and when those turn on we really see their impact.

we stay in a 217-227 power range  98% of the time.  Our problem is very likely being caused  by verizon's back up service for wall street stock exchange.

They run 2 tests of the emergency back up for all of wall street  they do these 15 minute tests 2x a month.  We drop down to 190 volts 2x a month for under 15 minutes.
We are in a very large industrial area. with a lot of high draw companies.
The ware house has a 10000 square foot freezer yep fucking huge  it is set to -20 f. It has the same issue 2x a month. when verizon tests backup for wall street.

We are thinking that we shut the freezer down for 20 minutes 2x a month when the issue occurs. We will work on this.

We have 3 phase power and we label all circuits   A+B  or A+C or B+C  this balances load.

Warehouse owner may 2x the space and add a new transformer.

A year from today we could have 400kwatts to manage vs the 180 we have now.

Congrats on the DIY build.

Out of curiosity, do you have a dedicated substation/transformer? If so, are you getting 217v from a tap adjusted traditional 208v 3phase transformer (or bank of single phase)?

I have no clue if your utility provider would allow for it but if you're constantly getting 217v from undervoltage it may make sense to ask them if they can adjust your tranfsormer tap(s) and bring up the secondary voltage.

I've ran several Bitmain PSUs (not the S17/T17) and they're workhorses next to some of the other stuff I've dealt with. Currently running a dying breed batch of APW3++ at 277v without a hiccup (please do not attempt this; I just had a few left overs with little resale value so I'm using them under very strict conditions/supervision).

All this being said, I've always had issues with Bitmain (and other) PSUs when they drop into that 140-200VAC limbo. I would certainly hope that your utility gets its stuff together as I'd hate to see such expensive equipment suffer.

Just food for thought.

Best of luck mining!

yes  except I won't buy the 3000 watts units.   I wanted to do this as cheaply and safe as possible.

Also my goal is to be s17 pro and nothing else (won't happen but it is a nice goal).

I will photo the build.

fully assembled about 9 feet long



three pieces about 12 usd total



attached to an l6-30r circuit



ready to test the next s17pro due soon



These wires are 15amp rated so 12 amps 24/7/365

I have  a solid 237-243 volts in my garage which is :

 3300/237 = 13.924 amps
 3200/237 = 13.502 amps
 3100/237 = 13.080 amps
 3000/237 = 12.658 amps
 2900/237 = 12.236 amps  

I could run anything under 2900 watts and be okay with this wire setup in my garage.

however in clifton

2900/217 = 13.364 amps
2800/217 = 12.903 amps
2700/217 = 12.442 amps

I need to be under 2700 watts.

And we still have the occasional low voltage  valley of 187-190 volts.  Yet to get a good response from power company on this issue.

However  almost all the gear can deal with this  for as much as a 30 minute drop in voltage.

once I factor  190 volts

I get

 2400/190 = 12.63 amps
 2300/190 = 12.105 amps

makes the s17 pros more attractive as they can ride out the low voltages without melting the wires.

Love the DIY Phil keep it up. Just for clarity sake it might be nice to toss in a picture of a completed unit. I was trying to sort out what's what following the links and, obviously not running these it took me a few minutes to figure it out. Could you not overcome the warning for higher power machines by stepping up to a higher gauge power cord and/or splitter as needed?

price is low and the clifton  setup has 30amp circuits lots of them.

running two s17s on a 30amp circuit will pop breaker.
so we only run one.
i do not have to change the l6-30r. i put the l6-30p to c19 to the splitter cost is only 12 bucks a miner.

as i have lots of spare l6-30r to fill.  we will need to put in some 20 amp circuits.

why not tho ? below is the power consumption for each model

s17+ > 2920w
S17e > 2880w
t17e  > 2915w
t17+ > 3200w


The only model  that might not be suitable for this set-up is the t17+ , in fact 3200w is only 13.3amp on 240v but I wouldn't do that , also what I don't understand is the use of the "Splitter", you are kind of causing unnecessary bottleneck here.

Okay we ordered quite a few of them.  About 12 s17's or t17s

I purchased

1 of these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-of-10-Hubbell-2P3W-30A-250V-Twist-Locking-Male-Plug-NEMA-L6-30P-Black/143330076211?

1 of these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-15-NEW-C19-to-C20-8FT-Extension-Power-Cable-Cords-37-1806-01/233344451774?

10 of these
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=35118

I built 10 sets.

14 awg will handle  15amps or  12 x 240 = 2880 watts

A set for one machine was about

l6-30p       =     3.00
c19 to c20 =     3.50   and   5 extra pieces
2x c13 to c20 = 4.50

total                  11.00  add a little for tax and shipping

10 x 12 = 120 for 10  s17's or t17's

note do not use this for:
s17e
t17e
s17+
t17+

but should be fine for s17 and t17 as they draw less power.

I also built some adapters for this

https://smartpowersystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/AVRPlusUsersGuide1.pdf

I used l6-30p  and 6-20r with a 1 foot piece of 12awg power wire.

I got 6 smartpower units  at fairly good price(200 each) they will cover 1 s17 each.