Topic: I want to mine on my Oven' NEMA 14-50r (Read 6725 times)

Hey, i did for a while, when i moved i had 2 breaker installed. I went for a temporary installation of metal sleeved cables so i can remove it cleanly when i leave(And it remain code). We changed the connectors to pen and sleeve. By far the safest connector, pulling wont disconnect, and they're rated way over usage.

I still have the oven plug, i might use it again.

Bump... are you still mining with your oven? Did you find a way to use the oven at the same time?

you can wall mount a conduit with the wire inside it

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings/N-5yc1vZbm4m

Cool, so basically, exactly what i said. Thanks for pitching in with information i can actually use to make it happen. This isint going to help me achieve it.

Nobody said the cable must be inside a wall or that a wall must be ripped open. Provided were some examples well defined by safety codes.  Wire must be installed to be protected - including from motion.  Cable can be routed on a wall's surface.  Hardware exists to do this - define by 100 years of science, experiment, and experience. How to install that wire is clearly defined by safety codes and standards.  Since your life is only secondary. Primary concern is for other's lives - including future guests, children, neighbors, and firemen.  That is why safety codes exist.

If this happen, so be it, i'd be only be worried about burning down the block or such serious fire. Hardware is replaceable and i dont think it would happen in the first place if things are properly wired with twist lock plugs.
I'd be using a pro to install the wiring so even tho the wiring would be exposed, as it would be ran on the ceiling corners toward the server room, i dont see why it would be any more risk than if it was in the ceiling.

Law wise, what are the penalty for running such an exposed-ish cable from the breaker to the ceiling, to a room?
Tearing down the bathroom to run an 50A cable under the bath doesnt sound safer to me.

I think what people are saying is their are some rule in the electrical code to follow and have been established as a means to follow . Things have happened in the past and this is why these codes are now law. For your safety because it can happen see this photo of which was recent

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.14275255

In a datacenter that must meet safety codes, a receptacle must be secured to the building.

You have described what is considered an extension cord.  Extension cords used in anything but temporary service are also considered a human safety risk.

Properly installed cables in a data center remain inside walls, underneath floors, or selected and secured in a manner that protects that cable from traffic or other movement.

I would not run the cable inside the wall, i'd hang it by the ceiling. Why would it matter if there's a twist lock preventing the connection from being pulled live? As far as i understand thats how it would be set up in an industrial warehouse or a Datacenter?

Is the danger that the cable somehow get ripped off from the electric panel?

For human safety, wires inside walls must not move.  Therefore wire must be secured by an appropriate device where it exits a wall.

do the 6 awg and then be fully able to run the 50 amps.


found a chart

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Thanks, i was thinking 6 AWG, would be code for up to 50A, if i ever decide to upgrade or something, the difference in price seem to be 10% up from 8 AWG.

it will be just fine.  make sure they are connected with quality wire.  i think 8 awg wire.

Still kind of related to this. Once i've moved, i'm thinking of using the TwistLock male and get a Twistlock female, instead of installing a receptacle in the wall.

I have;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6272
The counterpart would be;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6278

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-CS6364-Generator-12500-watt-Generators/dp/B00DVE8XUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458245279&sr=8-1&keywords=CS6364C

Cheers. Now the only thing left to figure out is a not noisy extractor to run in a bedroom with only a single small window. I'm thinking maybe running some kind of quiet turbine to push air through some tubes affixed to something like this;



But maybe one in one out? Maybe one pull one push fan/turbine?

I'd set that up but vertically so the outtake is above the intake so that i dont aspire my own heat output. During summer i'll try to find a high performance window fan that fit, but during winter it might be a bit hard to justify. Either that or i see if the apartment complex has a vent i could shove all the heat into

Free heating for everyone!

sounds good .  I got twisted in my head viewing the photo of the yellow plug

Thanks for posting picture!  Glad it all worked out looks like pretty clean setup considering was oven's electrical.  I do love to see neat things in home mining, and you definitely did it with this!

Now you just need more miners to fill that spot

Online guides says to remove the neutral pin altogether, its not needed unless you need 120V AND 240V. And hes the one that did the plug. I checked every outlets on the strip and i get 241.5V~

Or are you saying you're worried the ground is in the neutral? The Ground is the cylindric shape ish one. The flat one is the Neutral which is unplugged.

did you wire the plug correctly ?    the hot wires are good but I am not sure if you did the ground to the neutral.

now in my house the neutral bar and the ground bar are one in the same. 

Being in a different country then me and not having access to the main circuit box  have your friend check and be sure it is safe.

I got the full kit. Strip bars, 40A PDU, NEMA 14-50p. Total cost was 164$, bought 4 too many strip bars, total 8, and 10 C13 to C14 to plug the PSU's.
Finished minutes ago with one miner plugged;

Courtesy of Giant Value (lol)



And the inside of the yellow plug;
https://i.imgur.com/SOdlBfz.jpg

Hey guys!

I did use my oven plug to run some miners.
I ordered this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00BHGXYRC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Pretty good but Im a little bit sad since it give you 2x 120v plugs. I though it will be 240v but the cable seems to convert it to 120v.

You could also build one yourself for almost nothing.

Just get a NEMA 14-50 male plug, and 1 or 2 nema 15-5r + some good cable. (12gauge minimum in my opinion)

Let me know if it work 

Im changing place soon so if you want my cable I could ship it to you. 

Hehe. Honestly Valkir is the one that put this idea in my mind. He has some pretty good pragmatic ideas. He first recommended turning the electric heating already in place into mining potentials though, since its pretty easy to convert and un convert when you're done.

But maybe one of those could comment. I don't really feel like bothering any of them with a PM. I'll IM Valkir though, maybe he'd be interested in giving an eye to this project.

And for the project's progress, i'm now waiting for said person to come by in a bit, i'm glad he pulled through, so it should be even safer to do now, considering he makes a living out of building circuits, so to speak.

Well remember you are in a different country then I am in and notlist3d is also in the USA like I am.

HerbPean, Finksy and  valkir are all good guys and they are from Canada  maybe they would know a bit more about apartment rules.

I think valkir has an apartment in Montreal. He may be the guy to ask.

Wow, the forum lost the posts i was typing. Geh.

Well anyways, i was on about how here they can't do anything thats not in the rules set by the Régie du Logement and how i'd need to ask a lawyer or in a forum dedicated to this to really know.

Where i'm going its 100% rules as per the code, its going to be government owned. The only things added is X amount of animals, price for using A/C in summer and need permission to do modifications.

And i dont see anything in the régie du logement about fines or penalties if you break lease rules. You're expected to return the apartment the way you received it and if you break a rule, the only thing that can happen is an order from the Régie to abide by.

So if you break a rule i think you'll be forced to "unmod" it at your expense.

Worse case scenario, if i have to pay 1k of fine, i think it would still be worth it and i kind of doubt they would notice the additional breaker in the electric panel if they came in for checking the alarm or whatever.

If it happens i'm willing to suffer the consequence. I just want to get this done without causing a fire or some such.

Depends on your apartment and lease.   Some of my student apartment's were with big companies and listed fees right out and they were VERY expensive.  They had the right to walk through any time with a weeks notice.   And it was far worse then getting kicked out.  It was getting kicked out and they can still follow you with the bills/fines.  Even charge you for time you did not stay there.

I would take a hard look at lease as it varies greatly.  But the owner/apartment complex has right to walk through in most leases the details vary.  But that is when most violations are caught.  Also at time of leaving apartment complex.... the last apartment I had I went through and cleaned it where it almost spotless.  I still even owed some after I think it was like 100 dollars or so of fees they said they cleaned.  Some friends there owed closer to the thousand mark.

I think you will find it veriest greatly by apartment complex.  If you ask people in the one you are planning to go to is best way to find out.  On my last lease I knew at end they dinged you with fines.   Glad to be out of apartments anymore.  

The PDU was only $20 for 2 plugs? Which one did you buy?

I reckon, i'd rather live at my own place now. But anyways, as per the lease rules, i have to ask before doing any modification. But what if i do it anyways? Sound like the worst that could happen is i get evicted if they somehow find out?

Because i could set this all up in the kitchen using the Oven's plug, but that sound a bit silly.

With it being an apartment I don't think you will get away with modifying it that much.  But each lease is so different really depends on yours, when I rented I never had much freedom as far as changing big things.  Also depending where you live there is also some ordinances that you have to have certain certifications or bonded, etc.  So kinda a mix of a few things.

Hopefully you luck out and can modify it some.  My last one I was not even allowed to change door knob when one broke, I had call the apartment complex... and they took care of it.  Luckily no longer renting so lot easier.

High quality extension cords can do in a pinch. 

10 AWG or 8 awg

Hopefully, it won't be a picture of a Bonfire. I'll probably start plugging the AMTubes and if everything goes well i'll take a pic and think of what to add next. I'm guessing the GPUs rigs would be a good pic since they would be quiet in the kitchen. But then again the S5's are already running from outside the sound proof box.

Then after that i'll have to think about how to find someone that can add an outlet in the bedroom where i'm moving to soon. Since i'd rather not do it myself. But i suspect adding an outlet count as "Modifying" an apartment?

It's been a interesting read and sounds like project is going well.  Which is cool news.

Once you do get a miner plugged into it please share  a picture.  I would love to see how it comes out.

Alright thank you, very much. I could check the wires, i live in a apartment owned by big corps that build their own building so i'm pretty sure they are code. Everything need to be inspected for them to keep their license, etc etc. Also i checked the cable thats come into my electric panel and they seem pretty damn big and able of doing 125A+ But i digress. I plan on respecting 32A anyways.

For plugging the 3 wire in the 4 wire plug, to be code i think i just need to label the white wire with red or black tape or marker, so that it is clear i am using it as an ungrounded conductor.

I was gonna have someone else do this but it seem so simple i ordered a set of Hex key on Amazon and should receive it early next week. So if by the time i receive the key, Mr X doesnt get back to me, i should be just fine doing this on my own anyways.

And yeah i dont plan on going crazy slapping 8kW on this thing overnight or ever.

Just gotta figure out a way to accurately measure electricity usage. I'd know how to do it with a multi meter but there's no way i can touch the pins of these 240v cables while they're plugged in, like you could with 120v.

Lets say all wire up to the pdu is good for 50 amp

I think that pdu could do close to 40 amps.

I say do the 32amps because you mentioned weird power issues in your place.

that pdu has 4x  15 amp sockets 

so derate to 12 amps  that is 4 x 12 = 48 .   no way I would do that long term. 

but I think you could do 33amps safe  say 11 amps on 3 of the sockets. or maybe 36 amps which is 9 amps per socket.

I am always going to err on the short side of what you can do.\\

my pdus have 8 plugs and are 30 amp pdus.

they have 2x 20 amp slow blo fuses.

I know I can do 17 amps  on each fuse which is 34 amps  the fuses do not blow in the pdu but my wall fuse is a 30 amp and that trips after an hour or 2 at 34 amps.  which is fir sure an overload.

MY fear is the wire in the stove plug socket is not code so I am pushing numbers like 32amps

Yeah, thanks. It should be okay. Also while reading it kinda seem to say like they say for industrial PDU, it can handle its 40A rated load 24/7? I can't because its on a 40A breaker but what if it was on a 50A breaker?

Green is ground = correct

Black in the black = correct

White in the red = correct

Ignore 4th pin  = correct

This  is sound mechanically
But most likely not code , not sure since you are a different country.

Should work just add gear slowly.
And remember if it is overload bad things can happen.

Try to figure out your power draw of all miners combined and keep under 32 amps

For the first week at least.

32 amps is about 7600 watts

Today i received the PDU. I overbought the power strips, i though it was 1 strip per purchase, but they come by two and each has 1 plug, so i only needed 2 pack of 2, i got 4. But considering they were 20CAD per pack of 2, its not a big deal. I guess i'll have what i need if i buy another PDU.

I opened up the Hubbel twist lock 50A. Its 3 wire. Green, Black, White. I'm guessing this is the old code, which means the White should be Red? Thus. Those are my two 120V ungrounded (White and Black). And Green is Ground?

So if i understand correctly. The White wire (120V) should go in the Red connector (120V). The Black (120V) in the Black (120V). The Green in the Green (G). And new Plug's 4th pin, the White pin, which is Neutral can be ignored.

They do not.  Anyone can read its spec numbers.  Those do no surge protection until voltage well exceeds 500 volts.  They do not claim to protect from surges that typically cause damage.  For example, a hundreds of joules surge is routinely converted by a computer's power supply into rock stable, low DC voltages to safely power its semiconductors. Where is a threat?

Surges that are a concern are hundreds of thousands of joules. That protection (rated at 1200 joules) means it can only absorb 400 joules and never more than 800.  Near zero joules.  Protection from surges (that can overwhelm protection inside any appliance) is by something completely different and called a surge protector.

Anyone can read spec numbers.  It claims to correct voltages that are not problematic.  Computers (like all electronics) are perfectly happy even when incandescent bulbs dim to 50% intensity.  How often is your voltage dropping that low?  Never?  If voltage is dropping that low, then a power conditioner must be installed on at risk appliances - furnace, refrigerator, dish washer, air conditioner, etc.

Okay thanks, those are a bit expensive and i'm moving soon, maybe i wont have any issues there. I bookmarked them and i'll test once there to see if i get voltage problems.

I'd also like to be mostly protected in case of a real surge, like a lightning storm or some such, i'm guessing the appartment will have its grid protected already but, anything cheap i can add to be a bit safer?

so you have a complex  net work mining.

 Now I have some understanding.  I actually think it is not surges causing issue.  give me a minute to find what I what.

http://www.tripplite.com/line-conditioner-2000w-avr-system-automatic-voltage-regulator-power-conditioner-ac-surge-protector~LR2000/

http://www.tripplite.com/line-conditioner-1000w-avr-system-automatic-voltage-regulator-power-conditioner-ac-surge-protector~LR1000/

http://www.tripplite.com/line-conditioner-600w-avr-system-automatic-voltage-regulator-power-conditioner-ac-surge-protector-230v~LR604/


all of the above are a line conditioner first  and attempt to keep you close to 230volts.

the surge protection they do is secondary.


you are more likely going down to 205 and up to 250   volts and these will stop that.

surge issues are when you go up to 330 volts --------- not your problem.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-TRIPP-LITE-LINE-CONDITIONER-2000W-/252278634199?



I would look into this one and use it to all the pc's see what happens

And S5's and PCs/GPU rigs and AMTubes and A6. My farm setup is rather a patchwork of whatever i found best to buy at the moment. Right now i'm onlining GPU's since SHA256 is not doing all that great.

yeah but surges are less important then you think running this gear.

you are running s-7's correct?

I was wondering if i just didnt know how to go about it. I paid 55$ for it tho so. Hmm. I'll guess i'll try to search harder. Maybe someone else knows a better way to get the data...

Edit; Actually dug through HP pdf list and found the manual i think;
http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04123438.pdf

It says it has overload protection per load group. Is that what we want, and its per 15A outlet? Kinda sound like it just prevent each outlet of running more than 15A?

runs over 300 new.  Amazing but every search I have done does not turn a manual up.

I do not know if it is fused>  Would be nice if it was.

I got the plug, still waiting on the PDU/Strip bars.

@phil
Did you end up finding anything interesting on the 40A PDU?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/401071409648

Yeah, the resident secretary came in all nosey and saying i could cause damage if i left the temps in the apartment drop too much. It was 6C inside when it was like -35C outside so, she commented just to commented. The supervisor came and said no problem even though he should of seen a couple of things that arent exactly code.

Like big gauge exterior industrial cord extensions lol.

But yeah the box fan is very obvious.

From the exterior of your building can people see your box fan? Because if its like -5C and people see all your windows open with a giant box fan running at full speed, won't they wonder if Mr. Freeze is living in that apartment?

Lol, i've had a box fan pulling air out of the shelf/sound box (with the biggest miners inside) out strait to outdoor all winter. I've gotten +5C today, was nice, temps all at 60C or less. Its honestly not too bad when you dump the heat directly outside. But if i do it with GPUs, it goings to be harder to dump directly outside.

I'm actually thinking about looking into not too noisy extractor options to move more air. But it has to be fairly quiet since its going to be in an apartment.

50-60A on 240v might be quite a bit to keep relatively cool and relatively quiet when its 30C+ outdoor.

I would love to go to your apartment when you got around 100Amps of current running in this weather. I don't know what the weather is in Eastern Canada at the moment but here we have been getting +5C weather almost daily. I wonder how you are going to deal with all this heat. It really isn't a good idea using an air conditioner in the winter because your neightbours might get suspicious thinking you are growing pot and call the cops on you.

I never saw a specific request.  But then I also stop reading as soon as emotion is expressed.

Assuming a digital meter is available - since software that reads a meter inside a motherboard is insufficient.

Restore every connection as when the computer worked. AC power cord connected to a receptacle.  Computer not on.  Set a digital meter to 20 VDC. Attach its black probe to the chassis (bare metal; not paint).

Locate a purple wire (pin 9 ) from PSU to where it attaches to the motherboard. Use a red probe to touch that wire inside a nylon connector that attaches to motherboard. If necessary, make that connection using a needle or paper clip. It should read somewhere around 5 volts.  Record that number to three digits.

Next, do same with a green wire (pin 16 ). Then press computer's Power On button. Monitor how meter changes and what it eventually settles to. First number should be something well above 2.6. Second number should be something near to zero, Actual numbers and time to change (behavior) are relevant.

Repeat same to a gray wire (pin 8 ). Note a higher starting voltage, a lower final voltage, and its behavior. Report those three digit numbers and behavior.

Setup computer to execute as much software as possible. IOW it should be outputting sound loudly, while searching the disk, while playing complex graphics (ie a move or game), while powering a USB device, while accessing the internet, etc.  Having it access many peripherals simultaneously is important.  If it cannot power up, then monitor any one red (pin 4,21-23 ), orange (pin 1,2,12 or 13 ), and yellow (pin 10 or 11 ) wire for what each does as and after its power button is pressed.

Report all three digit numbers from those six wires. Next reply will identify or exonerate suspects.

BTW, if wires are not colored, then a PSU may not be ATX Standard. See  www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html    for color and pinouts.

I already asked.

"Hence, are you going to provide said instructions, or?"

Snarky is the emotion that exists only in your mind.   "An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions."  If you want help, obtain and request three things.  If you don't want help, then stop posting.  It could not be simpler.

Emotional? You were just making snarky comments instead of providing the instructions in the first place.

Since you do not seem to be familiar with the term, here;


So, no, not my invention.

Hence, are you going to provide said instructions, or?

Why are you being emotional to a post that is 100% technical.  Snarky is an emotion you have invented.  One sentence says exactly how to obtain assistance.  You must do three things.  "An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions."  How much simpler can that be?

Well if you're not going to actually help, you dont have to continue with your snarky remarks. Either help with instructions or not.

Cheers.

Record nothing.  If a defect exists, it exists constantly.  But the symptom of that defect occurs intermittently.

A meter is so simple (requires no training) that junior high science students use it.  An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions.  Measuring 12 volts says little that is useful.  Instructions obtain in minutes numbers that results in an answer without any more speculation.

You mean what? A multi meter? They dont record and i wouldnt want to spend days staring at it to see what it does. When i check it quick, the DC voltage is good, a solid 12.08v or so.

Symptoms no longer exist. But the defect does.  Normal is for a defective part to still boot and run a computer.

A meter is so ubiquitous as to be sold even in stores that also sell hammers.  Often for less than the cost of a good hammer.  Even available in Walmart for $15 or in Harbor Freight for $5.

So, we'll never really know. Thanks for taking to time to reply regardless. But you're right, its at DC level. I dont have to tools to monitor it. The problem doesnt even happen anymore, however.

Edit: Actually it does rarely if i plug 2 S1 on my PC's PSU. Loud would be 670W on my 750 evga g2.

The word 'surge' has many and completely different meanings.  For example, a surge on a USB port is due to insufficient current.  A surge on AC mains is a massive current spike.  A surge reported by a computer's motherboard is a low DC voltage problem.

A plug in protector is for an AC anomaly.  Your message is about a DC anomaly. To  say more about why requires number from a meter using some requested instructions.  That DC anomaly can result in intermittent computer instability.

Thanks for the lesson. I dont have access to my panel's main breaker so i can't imagine installing one at that level. So i was wondering what i could do to keep all that equipment safer.

Maybe my belief comes from misunderstanding, however i had problems where my computer would lock up 5 or 6 times a day, on reboot, the bios would give me a warning that a surge was detected and the PSU was shut down for safety.

Then i changed surge suppressor/power strip and it flatly stopped. I got a couple of such occurrence where stability issues were resolved by adding or changing the surge suppressor.

You saw what voltage vary +-5V?  Woefully subjective and vague.  Voltage ideal for all 120 v appliances can vary well beyond 5 volts.  Perfectly good even for motorized appliances - that are less robust.

Incandescent bulbs can dim to 50% intensity.  Or brighten to double intensity. Voltage changes that large are perfectly good for all electronics.  Computers can withstand even larger variations.  If voltage drops lower, then electronics do a normal power off.  Why should normal voltage variations cause concern?  And why is that harmful?

That and other protectors completely ignore +-5V changes.  Its let-through voltage is 330 volts.  That means 120 volts must well exceed 330 volts before it does anything. What does a protector do when voltages vary +-5v?

If a Leviton is properly earthed at the service entrance (ie at breaker box), then everything inside has effective protection.  Leviton is effective when connected that close (low impedance) to earth ground.  Lesser transients are already made irrelevant by what must exist inside every appliance.

If you can see it on a multimeter, then it is not a surge. If you saw it on a multimeter, relevant numbers were posted. Hearsay is routine when one cannot  provide numbers.

What is damaged by a micro surge?  No number will be posted because propaganda invents a fear called micro surges - that never causes damage - that is undefined by a number - that cannot be measured by a meter.  Anyone who first learned numbers would know that.

For example, how many volts does an ethernet suffer without damage?  2000 volts.  A micro surge that is well below 2000 volts somehow causes damage?  Yes - when someone does not attack their source for not providing honesty - a number.  No numbers is how scam artists recruit the most naive.  Honestly can only exists when numbers are provided.

Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules.  An effective protector connects something less than 50,000 amps low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) and harmlessly to earth.  Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Then micro surges also cause no damage.   No numbers (and we all learned this from what promoted Mission Accomplished) are a first indication of scams and lies.  Every honest recommendation also says where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Always.

Where did he provide even one number that defines a micro surge?  Show us a meter number that says otherwise.

Destructive surges are characterized by an 8/20 microsecond transient - another damning number.  Learn this from any MOV datasheet.  Meters can never measure that transients. Only the informed would know that.  Numbers are ignored when ineffective (near zero) protection is recommended by myths and hearsay.

Micro surges are made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  How many clocks, GFCIs, dishwashers, LED bulbs, radios, TVs, and recharging devices are you replacing daily or weekly due micro surges?  None?  What needs protection from micro surges?  Smoke detectors?  What protects THE most important appliance when any surge exists?  Best protection is already inside every appliance.  Micro surge are irrelevant when reality and numbers exist.

An informed consumer earths a 'whole house' protector so that a typically destructive surge (and micro surges) do not cause damage.  Most only know otherwise by ignoring spec numbers.  The fewer and informed properly earth one 'whole house' protector. Then all surges cause no damage ... those damn spec numbers.

Protection from all surges (ie direct lightning strikes, micro surges, etc) has always been provided by properly earthing a 'whole house' protector such as one from Leviton.  Protection increases with every foot shorter to earth AND with every foot of separation between protector and computer.

Micro surges of over current happen a lot here, i can see it on my multi meter, apparently surge suppressor help with that by absorbing the extra current, which reduce the long term strain on all the electronic connected to it.

I'm not trying to block a lightning strike, here, i should be safe from that already.

Of course not.  Surge protection is about connecting hundreds of thousands of joules on a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) path to earth.  If not at or in a breaker box. a protector is not doing protection.

Protectors that would 'block' or 'absorb' a surge are selling a magic elixir. Anyone can read its numbers.  Those adjacent protectors only claim to absorb hundreds or a thousand (near zero) joules. Effective protectors are connecting devices to what actually does protection.  That means destructive surge current are not anywhere inside a house.  That means hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside.

Looks to do either 120/240v.

And does anyone know if you can use a full house surge protection for this by wiring it into the 240v cable?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leviton-51110-SRG-Whole-House-Surge-Protection-Panel-3400-Joules-120-240V-NEW-/222019923509?hash=item33b16b2e35:g:iXEAAOSwp5JWawG3

You are welcome and the tip was also welcome.

Thank you very much for the help, i'll iron out the rest with someone i know that can put all this stuff together like a PRO.

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

Correct.


They're the 120V, i understand i will need to get C13 to C14. Or such.



I do like the Idea. Is there a plug i could plug two of those PDU on? The breaker its on is 40A, so i would also like a possibly more expensive alternative PDU that would do 30-40A or a way to plug two of such PDU on one receptacle? I also think i will need more than 4 ports because i have ATX PSU's in the 650-1050w range mostly.

Also, the shipping on that item is 110USD, so i will try to find an alternative.

Lastly, do i need any special tools to do this? I got basically nothing here beside a screwdriver and pliers.

Regardless, tell me where to send the 0.01BTC.

P.S.; I'm in Canada so i'm looking through http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=PDU&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XPDU+240v.TRS1&_nkw=PDU+240v&_sacat=0

and amazon.ca, newegg.ca etc.

Edit:
First find;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Pulizzi-Eaton-Powerware-ePDU-T982F3-Series-Monitored-PDU-T982F3-F-SL-109-240V-/321000822839?hash=item4abd23d837:g:i4YAAOSw9mFWJrY~
Only 24A but has lots of outlets.

Second find, really cheap;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620091411%26meid%3D1a1d84df33944300b5cc080c3217462e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D222021624372

Third find, 40A, cheap;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-8-3kVA-40A-Core-Modular-PDU-EO4505N-417587-D71-228481-007-3x16A-Power-Cords-/401071409648?hash=item5d61b809f0:g:YEYAAMXQXTZRfqll

I'm guessing i'd need some power strip to put on it to get the outlets i need.

BTC

Yeah I can help you let me go to my pc and not my iPad .


okay here is your receptacle


http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

correct?


I need to know what your psu power cords are.


 http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RL-40401-4-Feet-40-Amp-Range/dp/B00BHGXYUE/ref=sr_1_4?


http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?


either of the above can be used to build an adapter

http://www.generatorsforhomeuse.us/14-50r/




if you use the yellow plug:





You can attach a pdu like this one. just take the plug off it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-56205-S5-Compaq-50-60Hz-24A-4-port-PDU-Power-Distribution-Unit-Upgrade-/390707937861?



this is the yellow plug---------------------------------------- lll  -----------------------  the plug on the pdu is  3 wire remove it
                                                                                lll
                                                                                lll
       (N) --------------------- leave empty       ------------- lll   ------------------(no wire for the neutral)                                       
                                                                               lll
(H)         (H)                                                             lll                           [H]        [H]
                                                                               lll

     (G)                                                                                                        {g}


so for 40 bucks  15 for the plug and 25 for the pdu    you can run 4 s-7's

as that pdu can do 24 amps  or 5760 watts  


so do you like the idea?    is it worth 0.01

Would at 0.01BTC entice some people into pointing out info/a good deal that could lead in a quick resolution of my power cap solution? A more permanent grade solution would still be interesting to obtain in the following month or so, but i could really use some extra Amps right soon.

Worse case Scenario, a nice deal on a 30A PDU with an adapter that fit in the 14-50r would be okay, until i get a way to slap two 20~30A PDU on the 50a outlet? (Or find a 50a PDU)

I need a quick and cheap solution for as soon as possible and then the maxed setup can wait a bit.

I don't know that I have seen any deals on 50 amp PDU, I think that route might be hard due to not near as many used ones on market.  When you go to 20 or 30 amp PDU's you can find a deal most of the time.  There really are a lot of used people sell for far less then new price.   I have one really nice 30 amp pdu I owe Phil for finding a deal on, and I have one lower quality one as a backup I bought about a month ago.

What I would be doing is looking for a way to split it and go to 2 PDU's.   Someone else chime in.  But I think splitting the connection might be way to go.  Anyone have a decent deal on a cable to do this for him?  I'm thinking a cable that can do this on 40a might be a tad expensive as far as splitters go.

I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.

-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?)
-What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power?
-In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?

I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?

Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.