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Topic: Looking to by s5 hashing board (Read 472 times)
You can measure resistance between capacitor C15, C16, C17 and so on. You should read a low impedance but not a complete short.
You can un-solder the shorted caps and measure again the pads.
Also verify that the loading spring didn't scratch the surface coating on the PCB causing shorts.
I didn't manage to revive my boards yet. Have to put more time on those.
You can un-solder the shorted caps and measure again the pads.
Also verify that the loading spring didn't scratch the surface coating on the PCB causing shorts.
I didn't manage to revive my boards yet. Have to put more time on those.
Thanks, I'll check that out. What would you recommend to do if it is the springs? Thinking I could coat the rim of the holes with clear fingernail polish.
You can measure resistance between capacitor C15, C16, C17 and so on. You should read a low impedance but not a complete short.
You can un-solder the shorted caps and measure again the pads.
Also verify that the loading spring didn't scratch the surface coating on the PCB causing shorts.
I didn't manage to revive my boards yet. Have to put more time on those.
You can un-solder the shorted caps and measure again the pads.
Also verify that the loading spring didn't scratch the surface coating on the PCB causing shorts.
I didn't manage to revive my boards yet. Have to put more time on those.
Let me ask this another way. Is there a way I can attempt to fix it?
As per previous and other's post, yes you can try to put a new one assuming nothing else burnt down. If you're fine with soldering, replacing a PCI-e plug should be easy.
Once again as per previous post...... There is a huge draw still on the board that burned the connector. I am completely comfortable soldering a new pci-e plug on the board. However that is not going to fix anything if the board is just going to burn out another. The post that I quoted the gentleman was talking about grounds and the screws that hold the boards to the heat sinks (i Think.) That is what i am asking.. I do not believe it is a connector problem, more something to do with the board itself. Like i said with only front power plugs on it. The other hashing board plug and wires are cool to the touch when running. The wires and plug to the already burnt connector side are hot as fire crackers leaving me to assume something else is wrong other than a defective pci-e plug.
I did read a couples of time that some people had an issue with the heatsink not getting grounded, maybe there is a short somewhere. Maybe someone know exactly. You could start by checking if the screws in place are standard. I'm guessing if there is a short it would be because a screw is touching the circuit.
Let me ask this another way. Is there a way I can attempt to fix it?
As per previous and other's post, yes you can try to put a new one assuming nothing else burnt down. If you're fine with soldering, replacing a PCI-e plug should be easy.
Once again as per previous post...... There is a huge draw still on the board that burned the connector. I am completely comfortable soldering a new pci-e plug on the board. However that is not going to fix anything if the board is just going to burn out another. The post that I quoted the gentleman was talking about grounds and the screws that hold the boards to the heat sinks (i Think.) That is what i am asking.. I do not believe it is a connector problem, more something to do with the board itself. Like i said with only front power plugs on it. The other hashing board plug and wires are cool to the touch when running. The wires and plug to the already burnt connector side are hot as fire crackers leaving me to assume something else is wrong other than a defective pci-e plug.
Let me ask this another way. Is there a way I can attempt to fix it?
As per previous and other's post, yes you can try to put a new one assuming nothing else burnt down. If you're fine with soldering, replacing a PCI-e plug should be easy.
I suspect the little springs to short some internal power layer on PCB and causing high current demand.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
Let me ask this another way. Is there a way I can attempt to fix it?
I suspect the little springs to short some internal power layer on PCB and causing high current demand.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
....... Do what now? Sorry. Just not sure what you are saying.
I suspect the little springs to short some internal power layer on PCB and causing high current demand.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
There is not ground clear out around the hole for fixing the board on heat sink.
Multi-layer board, power and ground shorting with metal screw and spring.
Burn 2 myself when messing with water block.
I'm pretty sure one of the boards on my s5 has gone bad. It melted one plug and the the other on the same board is extremely hot. Does anyone have a just the one board they would be willing to sell.
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