Topic: Question about 220 to 110 wall adaptor (Read 1151 times)
Considering that a miner can pull over a kw, 16 sockets is way overkill. as most will go unused. Other folks have linked to 30A 4-socket ones more in line with what is needed.
Something like this?
https://www.networktigers.com/products/apc-ap7811-208v-30a-16-plug-metered-rack-mounted-pdu-power-distribution-unit?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0sI1svBN0Bu1-Y6oC2Uqn_keopB1KdVYTELRFD0tvwhoCb6Dw_wcB
It would be perfect if it was smaller.
Seems like that's the all in one unit.
https://www.networktigers.com/products/apc-ap7811-208v-30a-16-plug-metered-rack-mounted-pdu-power-distribution-unit?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0sI1svBN0Bu1-Y6oC2Uqn_keopB1KdVYTELRFD0tvwhoCb6Dw_wcB
It would be perfect if it was smaller.
Seems like that's the all in one unit.
If you want a more plug and play solution use a 30A PDU on that circuit. Meets code, has individual 15A breakers for each circuit, lets you take advantage of the 240V and will allow you to hook up more miners to the same outlet if you want to expand. Combine a PDU with a power strip like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-411273-002-HP-Power-Strip-for-PDU-Extension-Bar-12A-C13-/322438909153?hash=item4b12db4ce1:g:7dMAAOSwxH1T6-z2
That's my opinion anyways,...
That's my opinion anyways,...
ya.. amps.. sorry multitasking and not reading what I wrote lol
1800watts on 200 will draw 9 volts.
9 amps
1800watts on 200 will draw 9 volts.
I did some googling. the zeus uses standard PC PSU, they all run on either 100 or 200
It's the load I'm worried about. There's a limit on how much a house circuit breaker will take before it shuts off.
I did some googling. the zeus uses standard PC PSU, they all run on either 100 or 200
Why do you need the 120?
I need a circuit/fuse that can handle more than 1200 watts. I have a Zeusminer that pulls more than my normal house outlets.
Are those even worth plugging in at all?
I have a house to keep warm and the best way is miners.
Understood, look on the back of the miner, bet the psu says 100-240volts.
pretty well all electronics can run on either.
Why do you need the 120?
I need a circuit/fuse that can handle more than 1200 watts. I have a Zeusminer that pulls more than my normal house outlets.
Are those even worth plugging in at all?
I have a house to keep warm and the best way is miners.
Why do you need the 120?
I need a circuit/fuse that can handle more than 1200 watts. I have a Zeusminer that pulls more than my normal house outlets.
Are those even worth plugging in at all?
The plug will melt.
C
C
Why do you need the 120?
I need a circuit/fuse that can handle more than 1200 watts. I have a Zeusminer that pulls more than my normal house outlets.
Why do you need the 120?
Another thing to watch out for is power factor: A lower PF supply is going to put more heat on that adapter and probably burn it out. PF problems will not trip breakers, they will burn plugs first. Ask me how I know....
Agree with the other posters: Just run your supplies at 240v. Half the amps, less heat load.
C
Agree with the other posters: Just run your supplies at 240v. Half the amps, less heat load.
C
Quote
It says 1875 watts, so that would be the maximum load?
Um, yes....What it most likely does is connect to 1 of the hot lines and the center pin which for appliances using that style of 220v plug is a power Neutral along with being a (sorta) Ground tied to the metal appliance cabinet. That gives you the 110VAC.
Yes it meets Code. Sorta.
Appliance makers used to be allowed to do that so there is 110VAC available in the appliance for things like timers and light bulbs.
2 Problems with that: 1st is that you have no true safety ground.
Yes Neutral and Ground are tied together at the main panel but -- once you start pulling power through the Neutral the plug end of it WILL be a few volts above ground. Just the nature of the setup. Under the original intent (timers/light bulbs) the power through the Neutral was negligible so the voltage difference was not of major concern. However, these days most areas require a 4-wire connection - 2 hot, 1 Neutral for 110v needs, and 1 real Ground as a 'Just-in-Case'.
2nd issue is that the breaker feeding the 220v plug is now under unbalanced load because only 1 hot line is drawing power through the 1 side of it vs both sides being under load. Yes it should/will work if needed but it simply was not designed to operate like that.
Based on it being a *4* pin input, it should in fact have a proper ground.
Pulling unbalanced 15A through a circuit that will be commonly rated at 30 amps per side shouldn't be an issue.
On the other hand, like others already mentioned pretty much ANY current computer-type power supply will happily accept 220v input and commonly run a couple percent or so MORE efficiently.
IMO though better to go with a PDU designed to plug directly into the outlet, or possibly wire up a subpanel to feed from that outlet (a large chunk of my current mining setup is running through a subpanel at this time - but I HAVE been a certified electrician in the past so I know how to do that properly).
I was hoping for something more plug and play. Isn't one heating unit the same juice as a computer power supply? There is no direct 220 to 110 circuit path from 220 wall outlet to 110 power strip outlet?
The heaters in the dryer are wired across the 2 hot lines to be fed 220v. They would not use the Neutral/ground connection for power. Only through that center pin (which is becomes more of a Neutral, not so much a Ground anymore) to either one of the hot pins will you get 110v.Now if you say take one of those 2-to-3 prong plug adapters that will give you a connection to the 120v power strip ground wire, plug that into the adapter you are looking at, plug the power strip into the 2-3 prong adapter and make sure to WIRE THE GROUND TO A REAL GROUND, then ja is a kludge but is heckovalot safer...
I was hoping for something more plug and play. Isn't one heating unit the same juice as a computer power supply? There is no direct 220 to 110 circuit path from 220 wall outlet to 110 power strip outlet?
Best route: Most PSU's are quite happy with and in fact prefer being fed 208-240VAC. Check the label on the PSU of course 
If it is dual voltage make sure there is no little red voltage selector switch by the AC power socket you will need to toggle. Most supply handle that automatically.So, that said...
Check Amazon, E-bay, etc. for a 220v 30A 4-outlet PDU (pretty much is a 220v power strip).
Check what kind of outlets it has: Most likely they are standard IEC-13 (aka C13) so while there get some cords for the PSU's, one end male C13 the other end the normal female C13.
The plug end of the PDU cord will probably not be right so go to Home Depot or local hardware and get the right 220v 3-prong plug to fit your socket. Cut existing plug off of PDU cord and rewire with the new plug.
Done.
If it is dual voltage make sure there is no little red voltage selector switch by the AC power socket you will need to toggle. Most supply handle that automatically.So, that said...Check Amazon, E-bay, etc. for a 220v 30A 4-outlet PDU (pretty much is a 220v power strip).
Check what kind of outlets it has: Most likely they are standard IEC-13 (aka C13) so while there get some cords for the PSU's, one end male C13 the other end the normal female C13.
The plug end of the PDU cord will probably not be right so go to Home Depot or local hardware and get the right 220v 3-prong plug to fit your socket. Cut existing plug off of PDU cord and rewire with the new plug.
Done.
Quote
It says 1875 watts, so that would be the maximum load?
Um, yes....What it most likely does is connect to 1 of the hot lines and the center pin which for appliances using that style of 220v plug is a power Neutral along with being a (sorta) Ground tied to the metal appliance cabinet. That gives you the 110VAC.
Yes it meets Code. Sorta.
Appliance makers used to be allowed to do that so there is 110VAC available in the appliance for things like timers and light bulbs.
2 Problems with that: 1st is that you have no true safety ground.
Yes Neutral and Ground are tied together at the main panel but -- once you start pulling power through the Neutral the plug end of it WILL be a few volts above ground. Just the nature of the setup. Under the original intent (timers/light bulbs) the power through the Neutral was negligible so the voltage difference was not of major concern. However, these days most areas require a 4-wire connection - 2 hot, 1 Neutral for 110v needs, and 1 real Ground as a 'Just-in-Case'.
2nd issue is that the breaker feeding the 220v plug is now under unbalanced load because only 1 hot line is drawing power through the 1 side of it vs both sides being under load. Yes it should/will work if needed but it simply was not designed to operate like that. I heard that having the wrong kind of electrical pull on the wrong fuse is dangerous.
Thanks. Wow, one might think that electrical pull is electrical pull. So I can't hook up a heavy duty surge strip to this and put about 1500 watts worth of power supplies on it? What is the best way to use such a plug that I'm usually using for my clothes dryer?
Quote
It says 1875 watts, so that would be the maximum load?
Um, yes....What it most likely does is connect to 1 of the hot lines and the center pin which for appliances using that style of 220v plug is a power Neutral along with being a (sorta) Ground tied to the metal appliance cabinet. That gives you the 110VAC.
Yes it meets Code. Sorta.
Appliance makers used to be allowed to do that so there is 110VAC available in the appliance for things like timers and light bulbs.
2 Problems with that: 1st is that you have no true safety ground.
Yes Neutral and Ground are tied together at the main panel but -- once you start pulling power through the Neutral the plug end of it WILL be a few volts above ground. Just the nature of the setup. Under the original intent (timers/light bulbs) the power through the Neutral was negligible so the voltage difference was not of major concern. However, these days most areas require a 4-wire connection - 2 hot, 1 Neutral for 110v needs, and 1 real Ground as a 'Just-in-Case'.
2nd issue is that the breaker feeding the 220v plug is now under unbalanced load because only 1 hot line is drawing power through the 1 side of it vs both sides being under load. Yes it should/will work if needed but it simply was not designed to operate like that.
I would like to use one of these connected to a power strip: 110-220 Volt Range Plug Adapter:
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Plumbing-Electrical/ElectricalExtension-Cords/Interior/Miscellaneous/110-220-Volt-Range-Plug-Adapter/_/N-ntjxm/R-I3625232
Would I need a specific type of power strip? I know cheap ones can blow out. I'd be using the socket that I usually use for my dryer. It says 1875 watts, so that would be the maximum load?
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Plumbing-Electrical/ElectricalExtension-Cords/Interior/Miscellaneous/110-220-Volt-Range-Plug-Adapter/_/N-ntjxm/R-I3625232
Would I need a specific type of power strip? I know cheap ones can blow out. I'd be using the socket that I usually use for my dryer. It says 1875 watts, so that would be the maximum load?
Jump to: