The Ripple that's being created now is an enhanced and polished version of the same paradigm that we're trying to replace, that might someday evolve into a system for tracking P2P credit. The merchants that sign up to this are going to trust gateways, not individual users. You'll hand your money (BTC or legacy currency) over to a gate keeper, which will then give you permission to use your own funds.
Granted it's going to be a much more pleasant experience than the current state of the art for moving fiat currency around, assuming legal and regulatory barriers do not emerge which completely cripple the functionality gateways are allowed to provide.
I agree, I'm skeptical of the current implementation by NewCoin, and I am concerned with the level of adoption and implementation necessary for a completely trustworthy Ripple network. That said, the concept of IOUs are fine. I make and receive IOUs regularly, and they are handled mostly on time with gratuity. If Ripple handled that for me all electronically, that'd be flippin' awesome! Maybe it'd need to be done in circles like G+ has "friend circles". As a matter of fact, Google will more than likely add that ability sooner or later.
What bothers me right now is that, like you said, it is highly centralized, requires major exchanges (same as bitcoin) and basically if the IOU system were used at this moment, I'm pretty sure everyone and their mom would be scammed to hell and back. Some random dude on these forums PMed me the other day with "hey! add me on Ripple buddy!". That shit is going to be more devastating than bitcoin wallets deleted because it will affect relationships and reputation. It's not an easy problem to fix though because like Bitcoin, people just aren't used to being responsible with their money, much less PGP signing, encryption, and the idea of "no chargebacks when you give your money to a scammer". That's gotta change first, and where Bitcoin tries to solve that problem (and fails, because bitcoin can't fix the social engineering side of a scam, e.g. fake ASIC websites that accept BTC, etc), Ripple would simply organize debt to make it much easier to settle it.