Well at least it was a fun experince and you learned something, I have mentioned a couple of times that these PSUs are not meant to be fixed, this is what I was told by someone that I trust and I was hopping that he was wrong, but what just happened was another proof that unless it's an obvious broken fan on the PSU it isn't worth fixing.
So now I would take the fans out and keep them for future replacement and get a new/used PSU. Don't wait for bitmain because that might take forever, post in the market place and check on ebay, also get in touch with phill he is based in the US and he probably has a source or two.
Thanks for keeping us updated, was really hopping that you would fix it.
Topic: S15 doesn't power on (Read 528 times)
Got in the parts today and soldered it all together reassembled everything. And when I plugged it in as soon as the power cable hit the plug there was a nice big spark a pop the breaker tripped and now it has a classic burnt electronics smell.
So if I replaced the bridge rectifier and the main fuse where else in the line of this circuit board do I test for broken parts?
Or should I just scrap this one and wait till bitmain gets some in stock again and pay the $90 to get a new PSU?
So if I replaced the bridge rectifier and the main fuse where else in the line of this circuit board do I test for broken parts?
Or should I just scrap this one and wait till bitmain gets some in stock again and pay the $90 to get a new PSU?
I bought a 2560 off mouser for $8 shipped. I'll post an update when I get it installed if that fixes it or not.
And I don't take it as a mislabeled website or anything with Zeus BTC either because I talked to him and I was told several times that the 2560 they sell is 1000v and they do not sell any 2510 chips.
And I don't take it as a mislabeled website or anything with Zeus BTC either because I talked to him and I was told several times that the 2560 they sell is 1000v and they do not sell any 2510 chips.
$8 is pretty reasonable compared to $40 at least, as far as the the support guy/girl institing that the 2560 bridge rectifier is able to handle 1000v it is pretty much b.s, I think whoever you were talking to doesn't understand much and they were simply counting on the label on the website, the owner of the website "kevin" surely knows well enough about electronics, he makes most of the youtube videos regarding "fixing miners" and I believe he is the head of the team that makes the "fixture tools" for all the antminer models, so I will make sure to deliver a message/complaint to him to re-label the product and educate his support team.
Anyway, keep us updated.
I bought a 2560 off mouser for $8 shipped. I'll post an update when I get it installed if that fixes it or not.
And I don't take it as a mislabeled website or anything with Zeus BTC either because I talked to him and I was told several times that the 2560 they sell is 1000v and they do not sell any 2510 chips.
And I don't take it as a mislabeled website or anything with Zeus BTC either because I talked to him and I was told several times that the 2560 they sell is 1000v and they do not sell any 2510 chips.
As well as Digikey https://www.digikey.com/
As for voltage ratings, Best Practice is to use semiconductors rated for at least 3x the peak of highest expected line voltage, when cost is a factor I usually will drop that to 2x peak.
Assuming a max rating of 240VAC in, for spec'ing components I'd use 250v to cover occasional over voltage surges. Since Peak V=1.414*Vin RMS that works out to 353.5 volts peak and actually puts the 600v device at a good moderately conservative rating.
As for voltage ratings, Best Practice is to use semiconductors rated for at least 3x the peak of highest expected line voltage, when cost is a factor I usually will drop that to 2x peak.
Assuming a max rating of 240VAC in, for spec'ing components I'd use 250v to cover occasional over voltage surges. Since Peak V=1.414*Vin RMS that works out to 353.5 volts peak and actually puts the 600v device at a good moderately conservative rating.
yeah it is not like he is going to feed 900 volts on a constant basis.
if 600volts in is good.
then 1000volts in is also good.
also newark has a lot of parts
https://www.newark.com maybe cheaper
and maybe jameco
https://www.jameco.com
if 600volts in is good.
then 1000volts in is also good.
also newark has a lot of parts
https://www.newark.com maybe cheaper
and maybe jameco
https://www.jameco.com
Sadly I can't vouch for the accuracy of the information on thier website regarding this product, it is simply something beyond my ablitity, for what we know it could be mislabeled, but I know that if they tell you it will work on APW8, it will most likely will, but $40 is way too much IMO, i mean there is no guarntee that this will be the only problem and that the PSU will work again, so investing $40 in that is something I wouldn't do, how much does the 600v on mouser go for? also why don't you get the 1000v?
Quote
But they guys you sent me to have a 2506 listed as 1000v so I kinda don't trust them too much and will prob buy a 600v one off mouser.
Fact is, assuming they just mislabeled the pn on their site the higher voltage one would be better as it will be better at withstanding any spikes on the powerline which is probably why zeus may use them. That said, yes 600v variant is fine, just not as robust against possible voltage spikes.
Talked to the people over there and 1 chip is $40 shipped. So I looked on AliExpress and found one for $10 shipped. Problem is the voltage. So apparently the last bit of the number is the voltage 2506=600v, 2580=800v, 2510=1000v. But they guys you sent me to have a 2506 listed as 1000v so I kinda don't trust them too much and will prob buy a 600v one off mouser. I'm gonna call mouser tomorrow and ask their opinion on the ratings for these chips and what they recommend because this is getting rather odd.
I have identified that the bridge rectifier is bad. And I am working on pulling it out but I'm looking on mouser and Google to find a new one but I'm not sure on the specs. It reads that it's 2506 but there is like 50 and they all look similar and have slightly different specs. Which one do I need?
You probably need "GBJ2506 power rectifier 1000v 25A", that looks like this one
This will 99% work for you, I have yet to touch one but I know that https://www.zeusbtc.com only sell spare parts that work for mining gears, and they have this product https://www.zeusbtc.com/RepairDetails.asp?ID=101 and it matches the 2506 you got on yours.
Having said that and to be 100% sure, I suggest you talk to kevin or whoever is in charge, simply contact their support and ask if this would work on your APW8 or whichever PSU you are trying to fix, those guys know their stuff very well so I would trust whatever they got to tell you.
Your best friend
Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump with Heater 30W
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B88FRME
Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump with Heater 30W
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B88FRME
So I finally got to fixing the fuse and I plugged it in and no dice. I didn't test the fuse beforhand but I'm pretty sure it popped instantly because there was like 1.7v on the capacitors when I was pulling it back apart. I also plugged it in as just a PSU not connected to the miner.
Where are the bridge rectifier and are the varistor things? The 6 blue things right near the fuse? I can't test what I don't know to look for. Can someone point it out on a picture or something.
Also for the guy that wanted a pic of the fan cable routing I dono as I pulled mine out when I was working on it and don't remember the exact location. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to where they get routed just look to block as little airflow as possible.
Where are the bridge rectifier and are the varistor things? The 6 blue things right near the fuse? I can't test what I don't know to look for. Can someone point it out on a picture or something.
Also for the guy that wanted a pic of the fan cable routing I dono as I pulled mine out when I was working on it and don't remember the exact location. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to where they get routed just look to block as little airflow as possible.
I have identified that the bridge rectifier is bad. And I am working on pulling it out but I'm looking on mouser and Google to find a new one but I'm not sure on the specs. It reads that it's 2506 but there is like 50 and they all look similar and have slightly different specs. Which one do I need?
https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Bridge-Rectifiers/_/N-ax1mf?keyword=2506&No=25
https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Bridge-Rectifiers/_/N-ax1mf?keyword=2506&No=25
Bump
Anyone know the specs on the bridge rectifier?
rasmukri can you share a photo of the PSU (APW8), i am closing my PSU (after some repair) and need to know where i put the fan cables, i forgot make a photo (like i always do) before work on it.
If rasmukri forgets to send you the picture or simply isn't willing to do so, do let me know via a PM or simply mention my username in this thread, I think I know someone who has a dead S15 i might be able to get you the picture you need.
rasmukri can you share a photo of the PSU (APW8), i am closing my PSU (after some repair) and need to know where i put the fan cables, i forgot make a photo (like i always do) before work on it. There is none photo from inside the APW8 PSU on the net.
By the way don't forget tell us what happen.
By the way don't forget tell us what happen.
Well I had some stuff come up but I ordered a fuse off Amazon and I'll test the other stuff next weekend and see if I can get it back up and running.
Thanks for all the help in how to test and what could be broken.
Thanks for all the help in how to test and what could be broken.
I Only have the s17/t17 psu up in clifton.
I Wonder how you burned the fuse. 20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts
maybe you did a brown out and were feeding 180 volts into the psu that can burn the fuse.
I Wonder how you burned the fuse. 20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts
maybe you did a brown out and were feeding 180 volts into the psu that can burn the fuse.
that's what I would do because aside from a blown fuse I can't test the other advanced stuff.
Bridge Rectifier testing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11JPy4t36oo
Varistor And Thermistor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yIrdCKlfck&t=341s
Usually these ones get burned (the smoke inside usually came from this components, thats their work), is easily to see when they are damage.
If you don't want lost the fuse you need this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sxhBT2kolI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRFRwOnLsZI
I found that fuse and as expected it was shot to shit. It says 20A 250V where can I try to find one like this? It's not like we still have radio shack and I can go browsing the drawers for fuses.
Here is the image of the fuse
And I guess these once will work https://www.amazon.com/Divine-Lighting-Slow-Blow-Ceramic-MDA20A/dp/B004I36FJA, but as the previous post says, you must confirm that it's only the fuse that needs replacement, or simply risk 5$ and directly test the PSU ( that's what I would do because aside from a blown fuse I can't test the other advanced stuff).
Test the other components, when the fuse is gone, normally other components are gone (not all the time), check the Bridge rectifier, those are 4 diodes, easy to test.
Those are slow-blow ceramic fuse, i just check amazon and there is plenty of those.
You connect a PSU that work at 220V, in a 110V socket, it will draw more current for compensate the lack of voltage, whats why the fuse is gone, and posibile other components like the bridge is gone too.
(this came from the ohm law, is for DC current but is good for this example)
P = VxI
Power = Voltage x Current
(Power in Watts)
Power = 220v x I
Power = 110v x I
Lets say Power is 1600 watts
I = 1600 watts / 110V= 14.54 amp > I = 1600 watts / 220V=7.27 amp
In other words you need the double of current to compensate the lack of voltage, this can fxck the PSU cables (internal and external), fuse, Bridge rectifier, thermistors, etc.
(i repeat, the ohm laws are not the same for DC and AC, i just simplified to do a example).
This overcurrent normally damage the primary protection of the PSU.
By the way if you do the inverse, lets say connect a 110V PSU on a 220V outlet will do a overvolt, again the primary protections from the PSU are the ones that suffer.
Just hope is only the fuse.
Those are slow-blow ceramic fuse, i just check amazon and there is plenty of those.
You connect a PSU that work at 220V, in a 110V socket, it will draw more current for compensate the lack of voltage, whats why the fuse is gone, and posibile other components like the bridge is gone too.
(this came from the ohm law, is for DC current but is good for this example)
P = VxI
Power = Voltage x Current
(Power in Watts)
Power = 220v x I
Power = 110v x I
Lets say Power is 1600 watts
I = 1600 watts / 110V= 14.54 amp > I = 1600 watts / 220V=7.27 amp
In other words you need the double of current to compensate the lack of voltage, this can fxck the PSU cables (internal and external), fuse, Bridge rectifier, thermistors, etc.
(i repeat, the ohm laws are not the same for DC and AC, i just simplified to do a example).
This overcurrent normally damage the primary protection of the PSU.
By the way if you do the inverse, lets say connect a 110V PSU on a 220V outlet will do a overvolt, again the primary protections from the PSU are the ones that suffer.
Just hope is only the fuse.
[...]
I found that fuse and as expected it was shot to shit. It says 20A 250V where can I try to find one like this? It's not like we still have radio shack and I can go browsing the drawers for fuses.
I can't get the picture thing to work, but here is a pic of the fuse that I need to replace: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YwLbm2ivypvZZU09QAE_g9YbYFNATH80/view?usp=drivesdk
98 + shipping.
So that will be $130-140 shipped, not sure if it's worthy for merely a 28th consuming 57w each, after the power bill S15 will make 2$ a day (best case scenario), that is close to 3 months only to ROI the PSU, and with difficulty rising those 3 months could very easily become 4 or 5, I wouldn't pay that much for an S15 PSU, if he could find one shipped for 100$ or less, that might make sense, but paying 130-140 bucks and having to wait a couple of weeks to get the PSU from china isn't something I would do.
Before try anything left the equipment disconected few hours, the caps are charge and you need left then discharge (there is always resistence(s) in the circuit that help with this), is a slow process, just test then with the miltimeter to see if there is still any voltage, don't try to discharge then making a short, you will get spark and smoke, not big but scary and will short the life of the caps.
You will find the fuse inside a heat shrink, The color is black. Also, try to check the VDR and the Bridge, there is a lot of info on youtube, all you need is a Digital Multimeter.
I just take this photo from a APW8 (is from a T15):
You will find the fuse inside a heat shrink, The color is black. Also, try to check the VDR and the Bridge, there is a lot of info on youtube, all you need is a Digital Multimeter.
I just take this photo from a APW8 (is from a T15):
If you can disassemble the power supply try to find the fuse it might be cut off after the breaker has tripped.
I don't I have this power supply and gear so if you can provide a screenshot or pic of the motherboard of PSU maybe we can find the right parts that you can check with a multitester.
Start from the power cord if there is a cut line you need to replace it, if not then the issue is on the PSU internal so you will need to disassemble the unit to check the fuses and burned parts or might be some shorted capacitors.
I would like to add this link below as a reference, if you found any of these on the PSU check them with the multitester.
- https://electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html
I don't I have this power supply and gear so if you can provide a screenshot or pic of the motherboard of PSU maybe we can find the right parts that you can check with a multitester.
Start from the power cord if there is a cut line you need to replace it, if not then the issue is on the PSU internal so you will need to disassemble the unit to check the fuses and burned parts or might be some shorted capacitors.
I would like to add this link below as a reference, if you found any of these on the PSU check them with the multitester.
- https://electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html
I checked bitmain they have them in stock.
https://shop.bitmain.com/product/detail?pid=00020190418172319945PvKR86Kg0685
98 + shipping.
My records show I purchased a spare s15/t15 and a spare s17/t17
So when I get to Clifton they should be there someplace. I will know tomorrow night.
Only have the s17/t17 psu up in clifton.
Wonder how you burned the fuse. 20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts
https://shop.bitmain.com/product/detail?pid=00020190418172319945PvKR86Kg0685
98 + shipping.
My records show I purchased a spare s15/t15 and a spare s17/t17
So when I get to Clifton they should be there someplace. I will know tomorrow night.
Only have the s17/t17 psu up in clifton.
Wonder how you burned the fuse. 20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts
I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
I think you can still unscrew two boards from those plates and run it with one board.
I had a similar problem like you where my T2TZ wouldn't run at all after one hot night where it just turned off, I opened and inspected everything and it seemed okay, until I fully opened PSU and saw broken part in it (not sure how it is called). I am still yet to repair that PSU. My electrician says that repair can cost between 1USD and 100USD (yeah, I know, rather helpful guy there!) depending on what was damaged. Might be cheaper for you to order a new PSU if phil cannot help you.
I may have one. Are you in the USA?
I am driving to my farm this friday.
I can check. If would be new if I have it.
I am driving to my farm this friday.
I can check. If would be new if I have it.
Yeah I'm in CA, let me know.
I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
I may have one. Are you in the USA?
I am driving to my farm this friday.
I can check. If would be new if I have it.
I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.
Try unplugging it for 30min and then plugging it with new power cords and different power outlets (PREFERABLY 220/240v).
If that does not work. Open up the machine, check if any heatsink is loose or dropped and check for burned marks on hashboards.
Then, try plugging only one hashboard and turn on the unit, if that does not work, it's either PSU or control board that's dead. My guess would be PSU at that point.
Also, I am not sure if you should even run S15 at 120v in the first place...
If that does not work. Open up the machine, check if any heatsink is loose or dropped and check for burned marks on hashboards.
Then, try plugging only one hashboard and turn on the unit, if that does not work, it's either PSU or control board that's dead. My guess would be PSU at that point.
Also, I am not sure if you should even run S15 at 120v in the first place...
So I went full retard this morning… my housing complex has quiet hours 2200-0600 and someone made a complaint for my miners so for the last few days now I have to unplug them at night.
I have 3x S9 and 3x S15 the S9 run off 120v and the S15 on 240v. When I plugged them in this morning I plugged one S15 with the 120v plug and it turned on and I went back to bed till like 5 min later I heard the breaker trip and I went to investigate.
Now my S15 will not power on at all nothing no lights or fans. Is there any cheap way to solve this? Or how do I go about trying to fix it?
I have 3x S9 and 3x S15 the S9 run off 120v and the S15 on 240v. When I plugged them in this morning I plugged one S15 with the 120v plug and it turned on and I went back to bed till like 5 min later I heard the breaker trip and I went to investigate.
Now my S15 will not power on at all nothing no lights or fans. Is there any cheap way to solve this? Or how do I go about trying to fix it?
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