Seasonic
Silverstone Strider
Corsair AX
Enermax Platimax
Are the Best PSUs you can buy
Topic: Seasonic PSU's and powering ASIC's (Read 3215 times)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182082
This just arrived today and I'm going to use it to power 3 bASIC devices.. as most Platinum rated PSUs go this one is underrated in wattage, puts out a good 100w more than sticker. Single 12v rail. should do the trick right?
This just arrived today and I'm going to use it to power 3 bASIC devices.. as most Platinum rated PSUs go this one is underrated in wattage, puts out a good 100w more than sticker. Single 12v rail. should do the trick right?
Heh, yeah, I know, we all have piles of hardware that are a waste. I still have four 30 pin, 1 MB/70 ms Simm RAM chips that I paid $100 each for from my first real PC. (Compudyne 486DX2/50) Why? I don't know, but I think all techies have a bit of hoarder in them.
Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
Agreed, but no matter the quality, you're likely to get longer life out of a PSU if it's not running 100% load 24x7
Agreed. But to be fair, one must consider what that lifespan might reasonably be. I have an old Antec something or other from 1995(ish) sitting my room, that still works, but I would never use it, nor could I, as it has like 50% of the wattage delivered on the 3.3V and 5V lines. I suspect most PSUs will outlive your use for it either way, and it can even be a blessing for hardware to die if you have some weird crazy OCD about usable hardware (like me
, I have piles of "working" but worthless old hardware). Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
Agreed, but no matter the quality, you're likely to get longer life out of a PSU if it's not running 100% load 24x7
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
I will be the first to admit that it's not exactly scientific. My reasoning is based off the amount of heat that is dumped into a PSU due to inefficiency. An 80 Plus Gold PSU will waste less energy in the form of heat, so it's easier to cool. Thus, you could probably pull a higher continuous load and not have to worry about temps. I also gave a disclaimer and said you should be running a high quality PSU. If you pick up a 850W PSU for $50 on sale from a no-name brand, then you're just asking for trouble. I just sorta go by this rule to give myself a good starting point.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
I will be the first to admit that it's not exactly scientific. My reasoning is based off the amount of heat that is dumped into a PSU due to inefficiency. An 80 Plus Gold PSU will waste less energy in the form of heat, so it's easier to cool. Thus, you could probably pull a higher continuous load and not have to worry about temps. I also gave a disclaimer and said you should be running a high quality PSU. If you pick up a 850W PSU for $50 on sale from a no-name brand, then you're just asking for trouble. I just sorta go by this rule to give myself a good starting point.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!
I like single rail psu's too.
I have updated the op with more details from seasonic re:1000 watt platinum. (second quote)
I have updated the op with more details from seasonic re:1000 watt platinum. (second quote)
Rule of Thumb - Desktop Publishing - About.com
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
Rule of Thumb - Desktop Publishing - About.com
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
You should not call this a "rule of thumb". A rule of thumb is in general based on a scientific reasoning or experimental validation. But here, you are just playing with numbers to make them "line up" in a way no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
You should not call this a "rule of thumb". A rule of thumb is in general based on a scientific reasoning or experimental validation. But here, you are just playing with numbers to make them "line up" in a way no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
This assumes a quality PSU, as well. I'm loving my Seasonic 650W Gold, and I'd trust that up to ~600W no problem.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
This assumes a quality PSU, as well. I'm loving my Seasonic 650W Gold, and I'd trust that up to ~600W no problem.
I'm partial to our PCP&C 950W Silencers. They're consistently 1080W out of the box and you can get them close to $100 at some places online. Portable, Single Rail. I love it!
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
You want to share your math? My napkin says that an 800W PSU that's 80% efficient would only pull 1000W from the wall, not 1250W. If a 800W PSU was pulling 1250W from the wall, that'd mean it's only 64% efficient.
Ah, yeah, that should say it is rated to push 1000 watts at full load, I did my original calculation with 800 watts, but changed it to 1000 watts to match the example listed previously and didn't update that second reference to 800 watts. A 1000 Watt PSU running at 100% load needs to push 1000 Watts to the computer, to do that, it needs to pull 1250 Watts from the wall. (1250 * .80 = 1000 Watts)
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A 1000W PSU that's 80% efficient is rated to output 1000W, using 1250W input.
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
You want to share your math? My napkin says that an 800W PSU that's 80% efficient would only pull 1000W from the wall, not 1250W. If a 800W PSU was pulling 1250W from the wall, that'd mean it's only 64% efficient.
I just wanted to throw my vote in for the Corsair cx430. I have had a cx400 that is made by seasonic and the new cx430 which is cwt. These psu's can handle 400w all day long without breaking a sweat. Sometimes the cx430 is only $17 at newegg. It's currently $25 after rebate(edit: $20 after rebate and $5 promo code). I definitely recommend if you don't need a lot of power and don't want to spend a lot of money like these crazy people buying the seasonic 1000w @ $230. I know it's platinum and it looks like a badass psu. But if you're on a budget, $60 for 1200w(1550 max before it trips) for 3 cx430's sounds like a deal to me.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284/9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284/9
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 1000 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
Just like Superman,he hears screaming many miles away 
Faster than a gimped turtle, stronger than a cheap piece of paper..........its Cablez! lol
Just like Superman,he hears screaming many miles away
I am already looking in to adding a bASIC specific cable using the 4p molex connector. I will have something soon but am being held up by the lack of details on the device.
Maybe Cablez can make a female 6pin & 8pin PCIE cable with multiple 4pin molex connectors 
So you can use the PCIE cables to power your units.
Where are you CABLEZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So you can use the PCIE cables to power your units.
Where are you CABLEZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
quite glad to see this thread, i was questioning which psu to purchase to power my incoming bASIC devices. how do you feel about rosewill, newegg's in-house brand? i assumed they were garbage, until i saw:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182261
15 reviews, 14 5-star, 1 4-star, not a single complaint about the unit.. gold certified 450w, $60 after promo code... any ideas/estimates on power consumption of the bASIC units? will need a psu that will safely and efficiently power 2 54's and 1 27. thanks for the 411.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182261
15 reviews, 14 5-star, 1 4-star, not a single complaint about the unit.. gold certified 450w, $60 after promo code... any ideas/estimates on power consumption of the bASIC units? will need a psu that will safely and efficiently power 2 54's and 1 27. thanks for the 411.
As PSU's go that one is not to bad, it is a rebadged super flower
http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_list.php?class=2&sn=1&page=1&lang=en
here is a review of the Capstone 550M
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Rosewill-CAPSTONE-550M-Power-Supply-Review/1584/1
There are two issues I can see,
(550watt)
It has two seperate 12v rails of 274 watts max each. but comes with only one modular molex cable. This means you would need to connect all bASIC devices to this one rail. on a 450 watt this will draw too much power. it would draw too much on a 550watt.
The second issue is that all the 12v will be drawn from 1 modular connection pin, 250 watts will in likleyhood melt this pin.
The good news is that you can use an adapter on the pcie to make it a molex (check that this is okay with your ASIC vendor) and spread the load. If tom says it is fine to use a pcie->molex adapter then I would power each 54ghs device from the pcie and use the molex on the 24 ghs version. you psu will be very happy with this config.
or get another modular molex connector and run one 54ghs off one and the other two devices off the other rail.
I had never heard of super flower before, the psu's look alright. nice find.
Seasonic is definitely one of the best, if not the best maker of PSU around. Corsair has a number of lines that are rebranded Seasonics, which is good, since Corsair has consistently had possibly the best customer service stories around.
As with most things however, I recommend you don't just take a "brand name" and think "oh this is teh awesomez", do a quick review on the SPECIFIC MODEL you are thinking of purchasing. If you can't find reviews, that is often a bad sign.
Rosewill for example makes a number of lines of wholly inferior worthless PSUs, and they have a number of spectacular performing models, that can save a chunk of dough off brand name. Thermaltake has a line of junk, and a line of good performers (I myself own a ToughPower series which I used on my mining rigs, an 850W that I picked up for $60 on sale). CWT, Delta, Antec, OCZ, they can all be hit or miss (some do miss more often than others ofc).
I would possibly only universally badmouth a company HEC, which makes fairly across the board sh*t.
Glad to see some people are finally taking power delivery seriously. There is definitely a lot more to PSUs than just pushing a number of Watts down a cable.
As with most things however, I recommend you don't just take a "brand name" and think "oh this is teh awesomez", do a quick review on the SPECIFIC MODEL you are thinking of purchasing. If you can't find reviews, that is often a bad sign.
Rosewill for example makes a number of lines of wholly inferior worthless PSUs, and they have a number of spectacular performing models, that can save a chunk of dough off brand name. Thermaltake has a line of junk, and a line of good performers (I myself own a ToughPower series which I used on my mining rigs, an 850W that I picked up for $60 on sale). CWT, Delta, Antec, OCZ, they can all be hit or miss (some do miss more often than others ofc).
I would possibly only universally badmouth a company HEC, which makes fairly across the board sh*t.
Glad to see some people are finally taking power delivery seriously. There is definitely a lot more to PSUs than just pushing a number of Watts down a cable.
Hm, this thread is making me reconsider using my OZC 1250W I used for a 3x5970 1x5850 rig.
Damn, off to ebay with it and seasonic or corsair it is then.
Damn, off to ebay with it and seasonic or corsair it is then.
Tom said a 1000W PSU should be able to power 8-10 bASIC units.
This means that those who bought a round amount of 10 units who want to be absolutely sure that a single PSU will be sufficient need to have a 1200W PSU or higher.
For that reason I recommend the Corsair AX1200. Every reviewer absolutely raves about it. Its only inconvenient? It is a bit expensive. Oh wait... someone is selling 20 units here for only $200
This means that those who bought a round amount of 10 units who want to be absolutely sure that a single PSU will be sufficient need to have a 1200W PSU or higher.
For that reason I recommend the Corsair AX1200. Every reviewer absolutely raves about it. Its only inconvenient? It is a bit expensive. Oh wait... someone is selling 20 units here for only $200
quite glad to see this thread, i was questioning which psu to purchase to power my incoming bASIC devices. how do you feel about rosewill, newegg's in-house brand? i assumed they were garbage, until i saw:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182261
15 reviews, 14 5-star, 1 4-star, not a single complaint about the unit.. gold certified 450w, $60 after promo code... any ideas/estimates on power consumption of the bASIC units? will need a psu that will safely and efficiently power 2 54's and 1 27. thanks for the 411.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182261
15 reviews, 14 5-star, 1 4-star, not a single complaint about the unit.. gold certified 450w, $60 after promo code... any ideas/estimates on power consumption of the bASIC units? will need a psu that will safely and efficiently power 2 54's and 1 27. thanks for the 411.
I just took a look at the toughpower series,
http://www.thermaltake.com.au/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001564
That actually looks quite nice. It has a good review too, I don't own one, but if it does run at 650 continual (like the specs state it does) then we can assume the ripple isnt a problem.
looks like that psu is solid. Maybe CWT have sorted themselves out or maybe Thermaltake demanded higher specs. who knows.
Still the old cwt's are crap. and if in doubt, buy seasonic
http://www.thermaltake.com.au/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001564
That actually looks quite nice.
It has a good review too, I don't own one, but if it does run at 650 continual (like the specs state it does) then we can assume the ripple isnt a problem. looks like that psu is solid. Maybe CWT have sorted themselves out or maybe Thermaltake demanded higher specs. who knows.
Still the old cwt's are crap. and if in doubt, buy seasonic
I have had great success with Thermaltake Toughpower PSU's which are CWT....
Channel well and Seasonic seem to make the best PSU's available....
I dont rate CWT all that highly... they used to make some shoddy devices with over powered 3.3v and 5v so they could put a higher wattage on the product (so they label it as 650 watt when it can only give 400watts on the 12v rail [i made those numbers up as an example])
really seasonic is the only psu to buy. (maybe delta, never owned one but i hear positive things about them)
Channel well and Seasonic seem to make the best PSU's available....
Hi all,
I have a couple of bASIC's on order and thought I would share an email I got from seasonic regarding their 1000w platinum psu
follow up email
Hi Steve,
Maybe the below information will help.
Regards,
Walter
1. 18AWG wires used on the peripheral connectors has current limit of 15A
2. SATA terminal (pinout) current limit: 1.5A
3. Molex terminal (pinout) current limit: 7A
4. SATA housing max temperature: 105C
5. Molex housing max temperature: 85C
6. Power Supply's connector's 6 pin terminal (pinout): 7A
7. Power Supply's connector's 6pin housing is max 85C
Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of Seasonic Electronics Co., Ltd.
I bolded the part of his sig that is relevant.
So it would seem that the sweetspot for this psu will be 900-1000 watts for best efficiency
Anyway if you are going to power your ASIC use a seasonic or a rebadged seasonic. They are the best in the industry. I have had 3 psu's blow all due to my own fault (water, blocking the fan, and some metal filings). two were rebadged seasonics (corsair tx 650 running at 625) and they saved all the other components from frying. my one non seasonic, (OCZ, it was a gift) blew and took the board and two gpu's with it.
check out who makes your psu...
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/?tag=PSU_Manufacturers
and a massive database of the technical details of the psu's
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page541.htm
enjoy.
steve
I have a couple of bASIC's on order and thought I would share an email I got from seasonic regarding their 1000w platinum psu
Quote
Dear Steve,
Thank you very much for your mail and I am glad you have found the issue in your system.
As for the Platinum 1000, it can run continuously at 1000 watts and it meets the 80PLUS Platinum efficiency level at that power output.
The OPP, Over Power Protection is set at around 20% over so it can spike up to 1,200 ± for short bursts without any problems.
If you have further questions, please let me know.
Thank you again,
Walter
-------------------------------------
Walter Sun
www.seasoniceu.com
Thank you very much for your mail and I am glad you have found the issue in your system.
As for the Platinum 1000, it can run continuously at 1000 watts and it meets the 80PLUS Platinum efficiency level at that power output.
The OPP, Over Power Protection is set at around 20% over so it can spike up to 1,200 ± for short bursts without any problems.
If you have further questions, please let me know.
Thank you again,
Walter
-------------------------------------
Walter Sun
www.seasoniceu.com
follow up email
Quote
Hi Steve,
Maybe the below information will help.
Regards,
Walter
1. 18AWG wires used on the peripheral connectors has current limit of 15A
2. SATA terminal (pinout) current limit: 1.5A
3. Molex terminal (pinout) current limit: 7A
4. SATA housing max temperature: 105C
5. Molex housing max temperature: 85C
6. Power Supply's connector's 6 pin terminal (pinout): 7A
7. Power Supply's connector's 6pin housing is max 85C
Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of Seasonic Electronics Co., Ltd.
I bolded the part of his sig that is relevant.
So it would seem that the sweetspot for this psu will be 900-1000 watts for best efficiency
Anyway if you are going to power your ASIC use a seasonic or a rebadged seasonic. They are the best in the industry. I have had 3 psu's blow all due to my own fault (water, blocking the fan, and some metal filings). two were rebadged seasonics (corsair tx 650 running at 625) and they saved all the other components from frying. my one non seasonic, (OCZ, it was a gift) blew and took the board and two gpu's with it.
check out who makes your psu...
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/?tag=PSU_Manufacturers
and a massive database of the technical details of the psu's
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page541.htm
enjoy.
steve
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