I use the Roxul Safe'n'Sound, very easy to install and cuts like butter. Works very well, and fireproof.
Bit pricey though...
Topic: Soundproofing garage (Read 347 times)
Lots of ways
Is the wall eight feet high by 20 feet long?
The method above can work.
Or you can multi layer mdf with insulation.
Wait for links
75 by 4 ft. which means you can do an eight foot wall that is 19 ft long twice!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-75-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11475/100656747
5 pieces
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MDF-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-750-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988547/206512588
Layer 1 = radiant barrier attach to the garage wall two 4 foot by 19 foot pieces entire wall is covered layer 1
layer 2 = mdf attach 5 pieces over the radiant barrier
layer 3 = radiant barrier attach over the mdf
last layer you can use mdf again or go cosmetic with
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-6-in-x-12-ft-Premium-Tongue-and-Groove-Pattern-Whitewood-Board-418817/100062545
the radiant barrier is 175 the 5 mdf sheets are 150 that is 325
that gives 3 layers about 8 foot by 20 foot
if you go mdf again you could use the thinner version at 23 x 5 = 115
total is 440 it will stop the sound
if you go wood tongue n groove you need 40 boards so that is 400 + 325 = 725 looks good I have used the wood in two garages
Is the wall eight feet high by 20 feet long?
The method above can work.
Or you can multi layer mdf with insulation.
Wait for links
75 by 4 ft. which means you can do an eight foot wall that is 19 ft long twice!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-75-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11475/100656747
5 pieces
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MDF-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-750-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988547/206512588
Layer 1 = radiant barrier attach to the garage wall two 4 foot by 19 foot pieces entire wall is covered layer 1
layer 2 = mdf attach 5 pieces over the radiant barrier
layer 3 = radiant barrier attach over the mdf
last layer you can use mdf again or go cosmetic with
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-6-in-x-12-ft-Premium-Tongue-and-Groove-Pattern-Whitewood-Board-418817/100062545
the radiant barrier is 175 the 5 mdf sheets are 150 that is 325
that gives 3 layers about 8 foot by 20 foot
if you go mdf again you could use the thinner version at 23 x 5 = 115
total is 440 it will stop the sound
if you go wood tongue n groove you need 40 boards so that is 400 + 325 = 725 looks good I have used the wood in two garages
I haven't soundproofed any garages from miner, but I have had a little dealings with soundproofing on basement suites.
If it was me I would build a stud wall on the inside of the garage (between the miners and the master bed wall. Use the Roxul Safe'n'Sound in that wall then use resilient channel to hand the drywall on. Maybe even use acoustic sealant between the boards and the resignation channel. The back can be left open.
The main objective is to reduce the vibration by uncoupling the surfaces in the garage and the bedroom. Don't let the new stud wall touch the old garage wall. Fixing it to the floor should be fine but attaching it to the ceiling or outside wall should be through something that will not transfer the sound (maybe more res channel).
When installing the res channel do not 'short' the board to the frame wall. Screws holding the drywall on should only screw into the res channel and not the stud wall. This will transfer the sound. Failure rate for installing res channel can be high if your not careful, but its easy if yous studs are makes properly. There are videos on youtube explaining this.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/sw-resilient-channel-single-single-solid-banner.jpg
Basically like this but with an open back. I see some pictures with the green glue between the boards. Is this what you are talking about with the glue. I have never done this but I assume it would help more. You could do the one skin then add the glued skin after if the first skin isn't enough sound proofing.
If it was me I would build a stud wall on the inside of the garage (between the miners and the master bed wall. Use the Roxul Safe'n'Sound in that wall then use resilient channel to hand the drywall on. Maybe even use acoustic sealant between the boards and the resignation channel. The back can be left open.
The main objective is to reduce the vibration by uncoupling the surfaces in the garage and the bedroom. Don't let the new stud wall touch the old garage wall. Fixing it to the floor should be fine but attaching it to the ceiling or outside wall should be through something that will not transfer the sound (maybe more res channel).
When installing the res channel do not 'short' the board to the frame wall. Screws holding the drywall on should only screw into the res channel and not the stud wall. This will transfer the sound. Failure rate for installing res channel can be high if your not careful, but its easy if yous studs are makes properly. There are videos on youtube explaining this.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/sw-resilient-channel-single-single-solid-banner.jpg
Basically like this but with an open back. I see some pictures with the green glue between the boards. Is this what you are talking about with the glue. I have never done this but I assume it would help more. You could do the one skin then add the glued skin after if the first skin isn't enough sound proofing.
The left wall of my garage is a shared wall with the master bedroom. It's currently insulated with fiberglass insulation. I can still hear the miners through the wall.
Has anyone tried soundproofing a garage wall where you have miners in the garage? I am looking at Roxul Safe'n'Sound, Green Glue, etc and wasn't sure if any of these products worked.
Has anyone tried soundproofing a garage wall where you have miners in the garage? I am looking at Roxul Safe'n'Sound, Green Glue, etc and wasn't sure if any of these products worked.
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