Topic: 3D Printer for Bitcoin (Read 4724 times)
waiting for 3D printer to be cheaper then i will buy one for me too. At start everything is very expensive but it is just a matter of weeks when 3D printer will be in reach of everyone.
I would love to have a 3D printer. Would buy one if I needed one. The problem is I do not have any real use for it. I will just be playing around and wasting money 
Previously heard of a printing company support the currency.
How much does a 3D printer costs including the cost of shipment to India ?
Hobbyist 3D printers range from $300 to $3000.
Can you provide a link to a $300 one?
I saw one on Kickstarter for that price that was meant to be able to contend with the top of the range ones, but it's only being deliver in 2015.
How much does a 3D printer costs including the cost of shipment to India ?
Hobbyist 3D printers range from $300 to $3000.
How much does a 3D printer costs including the cost of shipment to India ?
Did you get the printer?
I'm sure there are some people who'd be willing to do a custom order for a slight premium.
Depending on what you need it for and the price your willing to pay, the replicator 2 is very good.
As a side point, the 3doodler is quite cool. It's more of a toy though rather than anything useful.
I'm sure there are some people who'd be willing to do a custom order for a slight premium.
Depending on what you need it for and the price your willing to pay, the replicator 2 is very good.
As a side point, the 3doodler is quite cool. It's more of a toy though rather than anything useful.
Is it possible to buy a 3D printer with Bitcoins yet?
You could always ask somebody else to buy it for you.
1) You send BTC to someone
2) They exchange the BTC or keep it
3) They buy the printer and ship it to you.
You could always ask somebody else to buy. And you will always pay more than you would pay buying by yourself
i am buyin 1 soon as i find a place that takes ltc or what not
and that would be awesome !
You could print physical bitcoins with a 3d printer 
Looks like BitSpend is 'out of the market' for now.. It's unfortunate to hear their side about how Chase bank is handling the situation.
http://www.reddit.com/r/BitSpend/comments/1go95b/updatenews_why_we_have_been_slow_and_taking/
http://www.reddit.com/r/BitSpend/comments/1go95b/updatenews_why_we_have_been_slow_and_taking/
This is the best printer I could find for the money http://www.punchtec.com/
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
Its also quite large and expensive for FDM/ME. Remember that increased speed = decreased accuracy, regardless of what the max resolution is, and running at a better resolution = increased time. 3DP is all about tradeoffs.
If everything else was equal, yes. If you want to compare screw driven, flimsy repraps to linear bearings and rigid frames... it's another story. It is not considerably larger or smaller than any other 200x200mm printable area model... and compared to anything else that's assembled and ready to print, it's not expensive. I wasn't interested in building a printer, I was interested in printing. I get great looking, dimensionally accurate parts. The only problems I've had have been with the QU-BD extruder.
Its not about the bearings and frames, honestly. When you really look at the engineering of it, there are so many forces going on within the polymer melt. As you increase the speeds, the cyclindrical melt acts and deposits very differently.
You obviously haven't seen the crap most people are printing on. Linear bearings are a huge step up in both speed and accuracy for home printers.
I know what cheap units are like. We have 20 or so £200 units we use as demonstrations and teaching.
In general I would recommend using shapeways if you can afford it. If you have time and energy and like to tinker then a home 3d printer may be better. I think the newer Makerbot printers are going to be consistently reliable compared to their earlier models.
The biggest problem with home printers is the extruder. I'm using a modified QU-BD extruder. Using Bart Dring's modifications, it's one of the best. You have to make sure you have no play in the bolt hole on the extruder bearing arm, or you're going to have problems.
I don't use PLA. Mostly ABS and a little 618 Nylon. I've got a heated bed. With and abs/acetone slurry, ABS parts stick very well. Most of the time I can get away with just painters tape.
This is the best printer I could find for the money http://www.punchtec.com/
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
Its also quite large and expensive for FDM/ME. Remember that increased speed = decreased accuracy, regardless of what the max resolution is, and running at a better resolution = increased time. 3DP is all about tradeoffs.
If everything else was equal, yes. If you want to compare screw driven, flimsy repraps to linear bearings and rigid frames... it's another story. It is not considerably larger or smaller than any other 200x200mm printable area model... and compared to anything else that's assembled and ready to print, it's not expensive. I wasn't interested in building a printer, I was interested in printing. I get great looking, dimensionally accurate parts. The only problems I've had have been with the QU-BD extruder.
Its not about the bearings and frames, honestly. When you really look at the engineering of it, there are so many forces going on within the polymer melt. As you increase the speeds, the cyclindrical melt acts and deposits very differently.
You obviously haven't seen the crap most people are printing on. Linear bearings are a huge step up in both speed and accuracy for home printers.
I have an ultimaker and I also send out designs to shapeways.
Here's my shapeways shop: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/zdd
Here's some images from my shop
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_603448_459882_1339641469.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_562025_461087_1340392150.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_547016_444941_1338517236.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_495702_469313_1340372371.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_608408_465852_1343102386.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_614444_506861_1343357961.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_635907_533697_1345246824.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_591441_506872_1343358068.jpg
Shapeways has ceramic, resin, plastic, steel, gold plate, bronze plate, and silver. Their printers are expensive (but very good compared to their competition) and accurate. They ship about 2 weeks after the design is uploaded as long as the design has no problems.
Here are pics of some of my 3d prints with the ultimaker.
https://i.imgur.com/tAu0any.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DluAdoP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QclNxqq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/btfuAKq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8gtC3kg.jpg
The ultimaker needs maintenance to get consistent prints and can jam up if the PLA plastic expands to far above the heated extruder.
If you have any other questions about the 3d printer let me know.
In general I would recommend using shapeways if you can afford it. If you have time and energy and like to tinker then a home 3d printer may be better. I think the newer Makerbot printers are going to be consistently reliable compared to their earlier models.
Here's my shapeways shop: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/zdd
Here's some images from my shop
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_603448_459882_1339641469.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_562025_461087_1340392150.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_547016_444941_1338517236.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_495702_469313_1340372371.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_608408_465852_1343102386.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_614444_506861_1343357961.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_635907_533697_1345246824.jpg
http://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/674x501_591441_506872_1343358068.jpg
Shapeways has ceramic, resin, plastic, steel, gold plate, bronze plate, and silver. Their printers are expensive (but very good compared to their competition) and accurate. They ship about 2 weeks after the design is uploaded as long as the design has no problems.
Here are pics of some of my 3d prints with the ultimaker.
https://i.imgur.com/tAu0any.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DluAdoP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QclNxqq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/btfuAKq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8gtC3kg.jpg
The ultimaker needs maintenance to get consistent prints and can jam up if the PLA plastic expands to far above the heated extruder.
If you have any other questions about the 3d printer let me know.
In general I would recommend using shapeways if you can afford it. If you have time and energy and like to tinker then a home 3d printer may be better. I think the newer Makerbot printers are going to be consistently reliable compared to their earlier models.
My Cubify printer is extremely easy to use, and not too expensive.
Cubify is cool, but their filament refills cost more than double the real price of filament - expensive and shipping is also outrageous. Shame on Cubify for trying to make proprietary "ink" cartridges!
Solution:
http://hackaday.com/2013/04/26/cube-3d-printer-hack-lets-you-use-bulk-filament/
Makergeeks accepts bitcoin payment for their printers and supplies, and are pretty awesome in general.
But it is still ABS or PLA plastic coins have not much appeal 
, I don't mind trying, anyone has a Bitcoin STL file where I can download?
, I don't mind trying, anyone has a Bitcoin STL file where I can download? 
You could print physical bitcoins with a 3d printer
My Cubify printer is extremely easy to use, and not too expensive.
This is the best printer I could find for the money http://www.punchtec.com/
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
It's the Ord Bot Hadron. Very fast. I can print an entire AR lower at .2mm resolution in 8 hours, at 200mm/s. I can print with nylon as well, since the extruder is not lined.
Its also quite large and expensive for FDM/ME. Remember that increased speed = decreased accuracy, regardless of what the max resolution is, and running at a better resolution = increased time. 3DP is all about tradeoffs.
If everything else was equal, yes. If you want to compare screw driven, flimsy repraps to linear bearings and rigid frames... it's another story. It is not considerably larger or smaller than any other 200x200mm printable area model... and compared to anything else that's assembled and ready to print, it's not expensive. I wasn't interested in building a printer, I was interested in printing. I get great looking, dimensionally accurate parts. The only problems I've had have been with the QU-BD extruder.
Its not about the bearings and frames, honestly. When you really look at the engineering of it, there are so many forces going on within the polymer melt. As you increase the speeds, the cyclindrical melt acts and deposits very differently.
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