Topic: [4+ EH] Slush Pool (slushpool.com); Overt AsicBoost; World First Mining Pool - page 334. (Read 4382810 times)

regurgitated from the best one has to offer, if one reads well,

soz yours got no reply but never let reading up stop you..

my bad you stated the obvious,

Why don't you just talk to yourself in PM?
Please, if it is not THIS pool related - post it elsewhere

If in doubt head here,, http://blip.fm/jilli it really bad tunes most have been selected for me by others, its so bad I love it.

has ever a thread been hijacked worse, not my bad , I only just sub'd

mobo's are multi layed, if you can spot one you should not be here on this forum but elsewhere doing shit with robots or rockets

For Ccy [email protected] for the others, hack yahoo I did

Thankyou KNK, I think its under control once we get over a 5 pm limit,

cheers and props

M

If it can be made - it can be repaired, but is it worth it is another question.
There are electrically conductive adhesives that can put it back without any heat and/or soldering and you may not even need to get a new capacitor - just put the same back, if it's OK

wait mate, don't bomb that box yet

I can buy it now, but wait, u are not fail yet

I will buy it, pm me

Sorry everyone for starting such a heated discussion over repairs.

I just finished contacting my second local college and found some interesting things about the bitmain s1 antiminer.

The motherboards are NOT normal boards and can not be soldered on. Heat will destroy them. Guess this is the future of motherboards now. They are only one sided boards with everything added in layers over layers using some form of adheasive/electrical process to make things stick and connect.

What happened on mine (and just realized it was a brand new one just got in 10 days ago) was the item pulled away from the motherboard completely. Just fell off. Piss poor workmanship all done by computers.

Of course I purchased several off ebay as new and can't return them so I'm out, my bad I guess. Anyway bitcoin is always a high risk venture and always will be for the time being.

Guess will be selling it for parts for best I can get. Just letting everyone know the motherboards are not like TV or computer boards etc. That is why they don't repair them. If they work good enough to pass test that's all they care. I have 7 computers and workstations and only 2 have similar motherboards where items (at least larger ones) can't be replaced without microscopes and some sort of fancy adhearing processs etc.

Go to bed mate, your wrong on many levels as I explained in PM

QandA is on, gonna listen to them muppets now

Hahahaha don't be silly  

Thing that closed our shop was general price drop of new stuff to the point it was more
profitable to buy new then repair old and outdated.

And now the same arms race in ASICs for Bitcoin mining disappointing    

I'm not buying anything else until they build something like this :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVGomx5-Ucc

If your fixing mobo and gfx your doing it wrong, they are and have been a replaceable component of computers for last 10yrs or more, unless you work for ATi or one of them brands your doing it wrong,

You can repair a some parts of a psu but NOT mobo's and gfx the boards are so multi layed not even do they fix, they swap some chips which as a service repair person you have no access to.  

If your gonna claim you solder onto or repair a mobo in the last 20yrs  

Just look at the side of a mobo or gfx, hue hue ,,

really dude,

Just cause im bored, 1 more time for the dummies.

1/8 and shows as dead , Does spell blown when the unit is dead, leaking which is not mentioned would show its an old cap or has been exposed to high heat.

Leaking caps are not blown in a workable device, this unit we speak of is dead, leaking caps give you a clue to what's going on, thus you would examine the device more intrinsically looking at darks points on other components and measuring the input of pwr if no dark components visible just as part of the problem solving process.
Electronics run off pwr that comes from AC then converts to DC. the 1st step in any problem solving with electronics is defining your array, your array is the total sum of things that can go wrong based on err then finding a halfway point eg if this tests ok and this doesn't my prob is on that side of things, the 1st place to array electronics is the pwr input - you confirm your psu and if external you look at what protects the device from a fail or fluctuating psu then so on and so forth, if you see blown caps you can of course take them out of line and test further on with the right test bench. In new devices you do assume the cap is faulty cause they are made in millions and tested 1 in a mill, examing the pcb also gives further clues but assumption is generally the best cost/time effective way.

damn said too much but when nubs start using mF and shit regarding 220/250v gear in regards to electronics I gotta say something,

Sorry Gab I belittled you or put you off electronics

cheers

<--grabs a beer

I used to fix computer motherboards and graphic cards for years but I didn't read the thread carefully , true , things I that learned I got from a trained old serviceman.

I'm actually 34 yrs old and got at least 300 repaired motherboards graphics and PSU's behind me that had bad caps , mosfets , mosfet drivers or generally fried chips on them but I will just stop answering to this.

They all mean the same thing in this instance, like I said read then re read, then google research before you reply, just as a start to your problem solving skills which seems you want. Google may make you smart but it wont make you intelligent.

And im not attacking your intelligence, just please think out, then about your replying to posts that need fixing. Being the 1st to state the obvious, yada yada yada DERP

If all else fails, there is  RMA request: [email protected], assuming that it is still under warranty.
Does the whole Antminer S1 appear to be dead?  Are there any symptoms?
You may want to post a photo or more detailed description of the suspect part.

Cheers

Im guessing you do not and have not worked in a professional manner with electronics, Im guessing you work in retail with a passion for electronics that reads the magazines and does projects from the jaycar. I have no problem with that unless you inflict yourself onto a thread that was how ever many posts ago helping out a person with a problem which had I not pm that person would just look at this thread as a bunch of young ego minded tards with small hands.

Mind dumping is great in the right arena its how ppl learn from their peers, this person posted a question and your dumping like you have eaten nothing but laxatives for last 3 days, I have read all your other posts since you joined and I troll forums never post until it was needed, u jumped in with mind dump crap which had nothing to do with the problem but just a realease so maybe you thought you where - well what eva, I can guess your age and experience, go quiet for awhile,, this aint a gamming thread.

"popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead" doesn't spell blown , leaking and "shows as dead" can mean a lot of things.

like I said,,

1/8 as mentioned states that it is a visibly blown cap, and that was somebody that is asking questions, you should go back to problem solving minescape or something.

And just for shits and giggles what instrument would you test a bad cap on that comes back with a result of "BAD"

why would you bother testing a visibly blown cap, not even would you waste your time in the path of problem solving

your boring now