Attic Exhausting | Bitcointalksearch.org

minefarmbuy

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Quote from: ?? on ??

I know this is old as hell but i pulled the trigger on this today: https://quietcoolsystems.com/garage-fan/. Specifically the GA ES-1500 model.

I know the fan is spendy but again this will keep the integrity of garage for home resale if/when that occurs.

Pulled the trigger since summer is here, price is pumping, and I don't want to turn units off mid day and should able add a couple more units with out worry.

Hopefully some pics when unit arrives and installed.

Fan is in and will need to install the other garage door vent as the house and yard door want to draw closed. Currently the door is lifted less than an inch to allow more air but temps from UI don't show over 85C mid day at 80F outside. Not sure what ambient in the garage is but will have sensor in a couple weeks. Hoping this will hold three more units if I'm lucky and will look to vent through the side of the house by fall/winter if I still don't want to touch the roof.

minefarmbuy

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I'll have them come out again to check. All soffits have been opened and 1300 CFM in the gable.

mgoz

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Key components are ventilation and sealing warm air leaks. The temperature of your attic should be the same as outside temperature, but there are a lot of factors that will affect that. One thing that was not mentioned in that video is to not block soffits. In the video it looks like they may have blocked the soffits spraying foam directly into them which pretty much destroys ventilation. You need to have open soffits to let the air in. If using standard roll insulation, there are baffles you can install to allow the air in while still insulating around. I had to install vents all along one side of the roof on a house I purchased about a year ago because they not only blocked with insulation, but also blocked off entirely with a fascia board. Don't know how some people even call themselves roofers or contractors.

wtfonly16

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Quote from: Megaquake on September 10, 2018, 08:18:06 AM

I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol

thats pretty bad considering you can get 3300+cfm for 180 watts using a 20inch blower on a single window. 1600rpm low pitch rumble vs screaming server fans...

Quote from: minefarmbuy on September 10, 2018, 09:48:24 AM

I live in the NW of the states so I actually have mold issues due to moisture. My inspector said more heat and ventilation will reduce it. In a sense dry it out and air flow. The ice damming maybe an issue. Once winter is here it will be more about retaining heat, as well at night I'll just be letting the heat move into the house or look to figure a way to let it circulate through the HVAC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcRPGQoeO9Q this video describes the winter snow on the roof problem with a hot attic.

minefarmbuy

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Quote from: Megaquake on September 10, 2018, 08:18:06 AM

I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol

Sounds effective but reducing noise is the reason I'm looking to vent to the attic. Wink

Quote from: mgoz on September 10, 2018, 08:41:37 AM

If you live where it snows, I'd be concerned with ice damming, mold, and shortening the life of your roof. It's generally a bad idea to exhaust air directly into an attic, especially warm air in the winter. If the plan is to run it all through ducting to an exhaust fan, then you should be OK.

I live in the NW of the states so I actually have mold issues due to moisture. My inspector said more heat and ventilation will reduce it. In a sense dry it out and air flow. The ice damming maybe an issue. Once winter is here it will be more about retaining heat, as well at night I'll just be letting the heat move into the house or look to figure a way to let it circulate through the HVAC.

mgoz

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If you live where it snows, I'd be concerned with ice damming, mold, and shortening the life of your roof. It's generally a bad idea to exhaust air directly into an attic, especially warm air in the winter. If the plan is to run it all through ducting to an exhaust fan, then you should be OK.

Megaquake

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I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol

minefarmbuy

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So I ordered the door louvers since it's cooling down here this seemed like the best place to start. Would hate to go through another season of the door lifted even just a couple inches.

Still trying to talk to manufacturers about demo'ing or wholesale but no one likes to send us stuff lol . . not that I blame them. I'd just talk about it all day ffs. Only update for now. I'll hope to have pics of the door up in the next couple weeks.

bitcoinguy123

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It’s easy to adjust the temps using the controller that comes with it but it’s mostly made for only higher temperatures since these fans are meant for attic exhaust where it would only cut on when it gets to a set high point...in my case I wanted to constantly pull out the heat and not let it build up so I bypassed it.

minefarmbuy

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Sorry, thought he picture would be bigger.

The fan and duct are 16 in.
The reducer is a 16 to 12in.
The register is 14in x 14in to 12in
yes on the 2.8k CFM

Would like to keep the green model for less draw. but the red model like mentioned is just over 3k CFM

philipma1957

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Quote from: minefarmbuy on July 23, 2018, 01:41:46 PM

Is the 2350 cfm a calculation factoring the length of the ducting? The one on the quick price out is 2.8k cfm. So I should move to 3k+ for sure from you recommendation?

Reason for one hole is this is our garage, need to keep it aesthetically in tack more so than what I would once I get to the point of moving to find cheaper power.

the image was not very clear I thought it read 2350cfm.

but as to hole size and length of tubing.

the longer the tube = more friction
the smaller the diameter = more friction

so a 1600cfm fan with 1 foot tube length to move the air

and at the same 1 foot diameter moves air a lot better then

a 2800 cfm fan with a 10 inch tube and a six foot length .

when I read your chart I saw a reducer in it 12 to 10 inches
I saw a tube six feet long
I read a 2350 cfm fan

and I thought it may not work

if the tubing is 1 foot with no reducer
the fan is 2800cfm
and the tube length is six feet I think you will be close to okay

minefarmbuy

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Thanks Raymond. I just wanted to understand phma's thoughts more. The link is helpful.

Btcguy, Nice, come winter I won't need as much exhaust. Is it too much stress you think to set a temp? Starting and stopping more frequently? Garage will get pretty cold, will be interesting to see what these auto fans will drop to.

bitcoinguy123

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Take a look at my post of my setup. I'm using similar fan and it works great. I got the red fan with higher cfm and bypassed the thermostat switch and its running 24/7 non stop for months now.

Here a link to my posts.

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.29355077

Raymond_B

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Just Getting Started...

I think Philip is simply illustrating the effect of both ductwork diameter and length.

This is a pretty good site that might help with your calculations. https://apps.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-ducts-velocity-a_27.html

minefarmbuy

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Is the 2350 cfm a calculation factoring the length of the ducting? The one on the quick price out is 2.8k cfm. So I should move to 3k+ for sure from you recommendation?

Reason for one hole is this is our garage, need to keep it aesthetically in tack more so than what I would once I get to the point of moving to find cheaper power.

philipma1957

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Quote from: minefarmbuy on July 22, 2018, 11:05:39 PM

What I have on that HD screenshot is a 12in register with 16in duct to fit over the gable fan. I would maybe want 6ft of ducting at most. just enough to reach the fan suspended from the rafters. Thoughts on those diameters?

maybe.

I can do 12 x 1350 = 16200 watts with 2 gable fans and no space

so 3200 cfm is moving enough air to cool 1350 watts

but the fans are both 12 inches the cable vents are both 16 inches

I have two not one and the spacing from the gear is under 1 foot.

if you have 8 x 1350 = 10800 watts

your one fan is 2350 cfm

you have one 12 inch hole not 2
and you move the air 6 to 7 feet.

I think it could work but you may be short.

minefarmbuy

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Quote from: philipma1957 on July 22, 2018, 10:43:42 PM

I see you want a single hole. A ten inch hole is too small. You will restrict airflow.

And you are looking to move the air more then six feet. That restricts air flow

What I have on that HD screenshot is a 12in register with 16in duct to fit over the gable fan. I would maybe want 6ft of ducting at most. just enough to reach the fan suspended from the rafters. Thoughts on those diameters?

philipma1957

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I see you want a single hole. A ten inch hole is too small. You will restrict airflow.

And you are looking to move the air more then six feet. That restricts air flow

minefarmbuy

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Ok great so my assumption or feeling that 3k was bout ball park for the hot weather in removal. Not everything is an antminer half of my four units are currently. Since I probably won't max more than 8 i'll look to move forward in the next few weeks with the project.

I know gable fans come with humidifiers and thermostats, but since I'll want the fan on always but not just at max I'll look and see if there are or is a way to wire the fan to reduce/gain speed at certain temps and not just shut off entirely. So far I see only dual speed models.

banman24

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Quote from: minefarmbuy on July 18, 2018, 10:33:02 PM

I wouldn't be able to run more than the eight with my power as is. Plus this is at home and I'll hope to venture out to cheaper power and bigger space if/as needed. So 3k would be plenty and the 1.6k cfm would be about the minimum then?

are they all s9's? I wouldn't want my farm to have "The minimum amount of cfm exhaust" I would rather have more than enough to accommodate for the few days of the year where it might get extremely hot outside. Calculating the CFM on these really isn't like hard numbers, by that I mean the fans on the machines are variable speeds. At full speed the s9's move almost 300cfm, If you take that into consideration 8*300=2400CFM. Thats worst case scenario (I would build it to those numbers), the colder the intake temp on the miners the slower the fans spin meaning the less cfm they actually move.

Topic: Attic Exhausting (Read 648 times)