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Topic: bad Block Erupter? (Read 8316 times)

hero member
Activity: 546
Merit: 500
September 15, 2013, 07:41:12 PM
#85
Any ideas with this matter why they buffer on the raspberry pi and not my windows 7 device? All they do is buffer on it. I unplug and put in pc and they start chugging along.

Also at least one device is not recognized by cgminer. I did make sure to test without any other devices on the hub just to make sure it wasn't seeing a device and thinking it can mine.

Thanks

p.s I got mine from btc guild and they were sealed as far as a sticker on the box with no tampering (the little white box you can't get open without showing some tampering when you open it Wink )
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 12, 2013, 09:04:25 PM
#84
Must say, when they run right they're no hassle at all.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 11, 2013, 10:11:09 AM
#83
How much have you spent trying to fix it? "Upgrade" or as you say what was the cost of all the "attempts to get stable operation"?

off the top of my head

copper pipe 1"diameter 2"length, less than a buck at Lowes I think, that was cut lengthwise, flattened, cut, nibbled and shape'd to have pads down on the CP2102 and ASIC then soldered to standoffs.

standoffs from Radio Shack, maybe a buck and a half

screws from Lowes to hold the new heatsink less than a buck per package at Lowes

small fan from a triple fan insert that would snap into a drive slot to exhaust heat, free from scrap

wall wart to drive fan free from scrap (actually fan is 12v so I'm using a 10watt step-up switching converter I bought years ago for under $10 between a lower voltage wall wart and the fan)

crystal from digikey, a buck or two plus shipping from Digikey

capacitors for crystal start up network free from scrap motherboard

replacement CP2102 as the original had a deep burn spot after mistakenly plugging a strong 12v wall wart supply into a new D-Link HUD7 hub, a buck or two from Digikey plus shipping (in the interim while the BE was down I used the D-Link on my main machine and was so impressed with the improved communication between my main machine and other gear, I'm likely leaving it there)

10uf tantalum capacitor across the USB Vbus (after reading USB3.0 and USB2.0 control chip datasheets, these are needed and perhaps the non-approved early USB2.0 CyberPower hub didn't have these on outputs) a buck or two from Radio Shack

Wish I had changed the CP2102 first off.  The BE has been running well for almost 3 days now on the CyberPower hub and Raspberry Pi.

soy

 I have a hot air desoldering station tweaked for the extra heat which I used to remove the CP2102 but you can't count that in the cost as I bought it anticipating I may have to change some FETs on a Jalapeno I may one day finally get after their pisspoor slow production.  I also bought a nice L/C meter for measuring components when I built a switching converter to bring a good sized Zenith laptop switching supply voltage down to 12v for my zTex 1.15x and used that meter to vet capacitors for the crystal start-up network.

I should note changing the CP2102 is a very delicate operation and I venture to say of those amateurs who attempt the change more than not will lose the BE completely.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 11, 2013, 09:15:40 AM
#82
Code:
[2013-07-30 20:48:38] USB: AMU0 read1 buffering 4 extra bytes

^ was worse when I had something plugged into the Raspberry Pi hub next to the USB Eruptor. Ran ok for the few days. Now it's crapping out. Very hot to the touch but not sure how much. Have that basic included heatsink on the back but no fan. Don't want to put a fan on it really... noise...

You do have a hub between the raspberry pi and the BE, correct?
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 11, 2013, 09:14:11 AM
#81
Code:
[2013-07-30 20:48:38] USB: AMU0 read1 buffering 4 extra bytes

^ was worse when I had something plugged into the Raspberry Pi hub next to the USB Eruptor. Ran ok for the few days. Now it's crapping out. Very hot to the touch but not sure how much. Have that basic included heatsink on the back but no fan. Don't want to put a fan on it really... noise...

What's the voltage between the ground pad (pad most distant from the heatsink hold down screw, call it pad 1) and pad 6?  Does that voltage vary?
hero member
Activity: 924
Merit: 1000
August 09, 2013, 05:20:03 AM
#80
How much have you spent trying to fix it? "Upgrade" or as you say what was the cost of all the "attempts to get stable operation"?
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 08, 2013, 07:52:44 PM
#79
Knock wood it's been hashing all afternoon like a champ. Smiley
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 08, 2013, 01:44:36 PM
#78
you should have returned it as soon as you had a problem. as long as you didn't unsolder anything i suspect that he will send you a new one.

Does this count?  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_DLmNkCkkVpWlpfa3BUVm9iZDQ/edit?usp=sharing


CP2102 replacement failed.  Will try again tomorrow.  Darn thing shifted on me.  Looks like I'm not yet eligible for a B.E. coupon.  I don't expect they're real tempted to issue coupons to those who paid 1BTC + shipping when they can offer those to anyone who will buy a back order B.E. at 0.6BTC + shipping.

Checked the voltage feeding the resistor/LED and found 5vdc so I figured either the CP2102 internal switching supply was dead or the mispositioned chip was shorting pins 6 & 7. 

Started heating the chip to remove, saw a very nice flux bubbling, better than yesterday, and decided to just test the voltage out of pin 6 again.  Now I was getting a very stable 3.5v at the resistor/LED! 

The original CP2102 was allowing the voltage at pin 6 to migrate as high as 3.9v.  Since when pin 6 is at 5v flashing LED appears okay tho marginally brighter, connect failures happened.  Whether the 3.9v out of the original CP2102 was a problem we don't know. 

So, I cleaned, reassembled and tested with the stable 3.5v out of pin 6.  Proper LED flashing but failures to connect, comm errors from AM0 on cgminer.  Bummer.

The IC has been again removed from the BE and after lunch I'll try remounting it. 

I hope the CP2102 doesn't need any programming. 

Only having purchased a single CP2102, if it isn't working today I'll order one or two more.  I'm sure it can tolerate some heating but repeated mount, un-mount, remount can't be good. 

Noticeably, the original CP2102 while attempting to connect got very hot, this isn't heating but that may change with remounting.

Unknown if any other chips on board fried when the hub saw 12vdc.


It seemed positioned as perfectly as I can get it by hand.  The clothespin with screw to hold it in place had to be modified.  Looked perfect after soldering.  Tried connecting but got comms errors.  Heated again, tried again, now hashing at 333.4MH/s.  Apparently success!

soy
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 08, 2013, 11:56:58 AM
#77
you should have returned it as soon as you had a problem. as long as you didn't unsolder anything i suspect that he will send you a new one.

Does this count?  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_DLmNkCkkVpWlpfa3BUVm9iZDQ/edit?usp=sharing


CP2102 replacement failed.  Will try again tomorrow.  Darn thing shifted on me.  Looks like I'm not yet eligible for a B.E. coupon.  I don't expect they're real tempted to issue coupons to those who paid 1BTC + shipping when they can offer those to anyone who will buy a back order B.E. at 0.6BTC + shipping.

Checked the voltage feeding the resistor/LED and found 5vdc so I figured either the CP2102 internal switching supply was dead or the mispositioned chip was shorting pins 6 & 7. 

Started heating the chip to remove, saw a very nice flux bubbling, better than yesterday, and decided to just test the voltage out of pin 6 again.  Now I was getting a very stable 3.5v at the resistor/LED! 

The original CP2102 was allowing the voltage at pin 6 to migrate as high as 3.9v.  Since when pin 6 is at 5v flashing LED appears okay tho marginally brighter, connect failures happened.  Whether the 3.9v out of the original CP2102 was a problem we don't know. 

So, I cleaned, reassembled and tested with the stable 3.5v out of pin 6.  Proper LED flashing but failures to connect, comm errors from AM0 on cgminer.  Bummer.

The IC has been again removed from the BE and after lunch I'll try remounting it. 

I hope the CP2102 doesn't need any programming. 

Only having purchased a single CP2102, if it isn't working today I'll order one or two more.  I'm sure it can tolerate some heating but repeated mount, un-mount, remount can't be good. 

Noticeably, the original CP2102 while attempting to connect got very hot, this isn't heating but that may change with remounting.

Unknown if any other chips on board fried when the hub saw 12vdc.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 07, 2013, 04:08:38 PM
#76
you should have returned it as soon as you had a problem. as long as you didn't unsolder anything i suspect that he will send you a new one.

Does this count?  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_DLmNkCkkVpWlpfa3BUVm9iZDQ/edit?usp=sharing


CP2102 replacement failed.  Will try again tomorrow.  Darn thing shifted on me.  Looks like I'm not yet eligible for a B.E. coupon.  I don't expect they're real tempted to issue coupons to those who paid 1BTC + shipping when they can offer those to anyone who will buy a back order B.E. at 0.6BTC + shipping.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 07, 2013, 09:59:38 AM
#75
you should have returned it as soon as you had a problem. as long as you didn't unsolder anything i suspect that he will send you a new one.

Does this count?  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_DLmNkCkkVpWlpfa3BUVm9iZDQ/edit?usp=sharing

soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 04, 2013, 05:19:04 PM
#74
Total cost to "upgrade" the BE at this point?
I don't quite understand the question.  I was getting failure to enumerate messages.  The changes were attempts to get stable operation, wasn't "upgrade"ing.
hero member
Activity: 924
Merit: 1000
August 03, 2013, 10:08:24 PM
#73
Total cost to "upgrade" the BE at this point?
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
August 03, 2013, 02:45:08 PM
#72
 Sad Ah well, moot.  I devised a heatsink and fan.  Moot because I changed the crystal, then added a startup network to the crystal, then added a tantalum capacitor to the USB power in.  The close proximity fan caused dust to build up in lees and that degraded performance after a while.  The startup network worked well, the B.E. was running on a not-approved Cyber Power hub as the room climbed into the mid-80°'s F.  Usually the B.E. would shut down if the ambient got to 79°+ registering impossibly high hash rates on the minepeon cgminer.  I decided to buy the D-Link DUB-H7.  It arrived today.  I also had purchased a Seagate Plus Backup for my main system which I'm going to use today.  Both were open.  The wall warts have identical plugs tho the Seagate Plus is 12v while the D-Link DUB-H7 is 5v.  I noted to friends that the cheap 7 port hubs on ebay, external 5v plug same as the D-Link, hardwired to the upstream port and that 12v wall wart plugs fit perfectly (bought a L-C meter that came with one).  Don't know if the D-Link upstream port is hard wired to the voltage in plug but it certainly goes to the downstream port.  That gremlin that danced around on the wing of an aircraft on Twilight Zone must have guided my hand as I fired up the block erupter on the D-Link hub using the 12v wall wart.  The CP2102 quickly fried.  My B.E. is dead.  Sad

soy

PS: A replacement CP2102 has been ordered, should ship Monday and arrive later in the week.  With luck it was the only chip that fried.  The D-Link hub is fine.  My just short of 65 year old eyes and reflexes aren't what's needed to remove and replace a CP2102 so odds are less than even money it will succeed. 
sr. member
Activity: 336
Merit: 250
July 31, 2013, 09:01:56 AM
#71
if you're concerned about broken seals, I bough 10 BE from SonicSilentBoom (reseller with the cheapest price BTW) and they came in a big sealed box with 10 smaller sealed well packaged white boxes inside. Also inside the smal box, the BE was sealed in small plastic bag.

SonicSilentBoom do not temper with the BEs. I would be curious about his policy concerning defects.

Also, the seal is Quality Control seal. AM tested them prior to box them.

As an analogy, can you imagine going to Best Buy to buy some electronic where boxes are preopen because they retest it back in store?

Minimal bad ones from factory. If you bought from me, I will take care of you. Reseller you purchased from should handle replacement/warranty if not obvious damage (stick bent/broken in half).

member
Activity: 112
Merit: 10
July 31, 2013, 08:29:26 AM
#70
if you're concerned about broken seals, I bough 10 BE from SonicSilentBoom (reseller with the cheapest price BTW) and they came in a big sealed box with 10 smaller sealed well packaged white boxes inside. Also inside the smal box, the BE was sealed in small plastic bag.

SonicSilentBoom do not temper with the BEs. I would be curious about his policy concerning defects.

Also, the seal is Quality Control seal. AM tested them prior to box them.

As an analogy, can you imagine going to Best Buy to buy some electronic where boxes are preopen because they retest it back in store?
member
Activity: 60
Merit: 10
July 31, 2013, 07:11:30 AM
#69
I'm not buying it.  Sealed after testing at the production facility and sold without color choice.  No valid reason to open the box.  With a big back order line and anxious buyers, breaking the seal sounds unreal not to mention the question of what kind of testing could possibly be done for what period of time given the numbers after which there'd still be back orders and opened boxes of BE's that were iffy or returns.  Nah, they'd be in and out and seals opened by the lucky customers.

They are tested before shipping to prevent people who like to poke and prod, eventually damaging the unit, from then claiming some conspiracy theory about how they were ripped off and sent a damaged unit. You most likely shorted something when you were doing your circuit testing. It sounds to me to be a bad case of banana hands on your part. Much more believable than BTCGuild ripping you off. These things are not exactly rocket science to get running.
hero member
Activity: 490
Merit: 501
July 30, 2013, 08:56:52 PM
#68
BTCguild said he was personally testing each unit before shipping them at the time yours was shipped. that is why the seal was broken. you got one that passed his testing and was still bad. you should have returned it as soon as you had a problem. as long as you didn't unsolder anything i suspect that he will send you a new one.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
July 30, 2013, 08:32:10 PM
#67
I'm not buying it.  Sealed after testing at the production facility and sold without color choice.  No valid reason to open the box.  With a big back order line and anxious buyers, breaking the seal sounds unreal not to mention the question of what kind of testing could possibly be done for what period of time given the numbers after which there'd still be back orders and opened boxes of BE's that were iffy or returns.  Nah, they'd be in and out and seals opened by the lucky customers.
hero member
Activity: 499
Merit: 500
July 30, 2013, 06:00:50 PM
#66
I mentioned in an early post in this thread that the Block Erupter arrived and the small box had a seal that had been opened.  The box was unsealed.  I only own a single Block Erupter.  It's still not right.  I imagine it makes perfect sense to send returned bad B.E.s to customers who only get one.  No way to compare performance, is there BTCGuild.

Just my own experience, all my BE's have come with the seal broken.  They either were opened for testing or to see the color.

Sorry to hear about yours and it's problems.
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