Topic: Burned PCIe to PSU connector (Read 1838 times)
thanks for the feedback/options, will "measure" temps with my fingers and see if it gets hot, but the new psu will not arrive/get ordered till later this year as it is getting hotter in my country and my gpu rigs are not running till winter
ive taken to pointing my ir temp gun at pcie and psu connectors every couple weeks or so for the last year, ever since i had a seasonic 750 psu melt its pcie connectors on the psu side (seasonic had a bad run of cables a few years ago when i bought it).
i remember taking needle nose pliers to some female molex connectors years ago as they would loosen up on some connectors.
i have a tube of no ox that i use for flashlights and my r/c cars. havent used it on computers yet but its a good idea.
i remember taking needle nose pliers to some female molex connectors years ago as they would loosen up on some connectors.
i have a tube of no ox that i use for flashlights and my r/c cars. havent used it on computers yet but its a good idea.
sweeping with a laser pointing ir gun is good practice now and again.. but i see and raise the concept with using an entire camera.
these solutions are pretty inexpensive as a stand alone product and can save your time in spades with just a short glance of the screen.
CAT came out with an inexpensive cell phone a year or so back that includes this option.. personally i like the seek thermal solution for android or iphone.
ive taken to pointing my ir temp gun at pcie and psu connectors every couple weeks or so for the last year, ever since i had a seasonic 750 psu melt its pcie connectors on the psu side (seasonic had a bad run of cables a few years ago when i bought it).
i remember taking needle nose pliers to some female molex connectors years ago as they would loosen up on some connectors.
i have a tube of no ox that i use for flashlights and my r/c cars. havent used it on computers yet but its a good idea.
i remember taking needle nose pliers to some female molex connectors years ago as they would loosen up on some connectors.
i have a tube of no ox that i use for flashlights and my r/c cars. havent used it on computers yet but its a good idea.
Hi,
i just noticed a failed card (280x) wasnt dead but rather the PCIe to PSU connector was burned and i wasnt able to pull it out, the plastic has molten with the socket it seems.
the PSU in question is a Enermax 1000W ECO, this PCIe Connector was attached solely to that 280x, my question is: how is this possible? the card doesnt draw that much power and the cables seemed thick enough to handle a 280x
i just noticed a failed card (280x) wasnt dead but rather the PCIe to PSU connector was burned and i wasnt able to pull it out, the plastic has molten with the socket it seems.
the PSU in question is a Enermax 1000W ECO, this PCIe Connector was attached solely to that 280x, my question is: how is this possible? the card doesnt draw that much power and the cables seemed thick enough to handle a 280x
what were you clocking the card at?
I used to do a lot of grounding work and always had these large bus bars where soft aluminum connectors that I crimped myself were bolted to the copper surface.. it was *highly* recommended to use no-ox of some sort to prevent the buildup of any barrier that inhibits conductivity between the surfaces.
since I had an r9 290 plug melt down on me I picked up the habit of using this no-ox after taking a scotch brite pad the connections and have had zero issues since.
it's an exponentially more vital practice between two uncommon mating surfaces like aluminum to copper vs copper to copper.
as for the life of a connector clicking on/off cards, i would believe 20 cycles is a fair number.. but with some needle nose pliers and a bit of common sense you could reset that number and tighten up the clearances on the soft female connectors quite easily.
Hi,
After 3+ years of continuous mining I found melted PCIE connectors (in different stage) in connectors seems to be formed a little oxide (visible in unused), so imperfect contact was the cause. This happened only with one PSU, low quality connectors.
After 3+ years of continuous mining I found melted PCIE connectors (in different stage) in connectors seems to be formed a little oxide (visible in unused), so imperfect contact was the cause. This happened only with one PSU, low quality connectors.
everything is wired up.
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
nice I was thinking about going with server psu but how exactly do you power the motherboard thankscables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
Same question. Do you need adaptor for the ATX power socket?
yes n a little more than that, most likely u will need a server psu, a breakout board n a atx adapter powered by the server psu aka pico but u MUST be able to get those good ones ! if not it will burn & may or may not cause the mobo to burn too.
i've been busy with couple of ongoing projects.
i may launch a complete kit soon. couple of things are on order.
happy mining & be safe.
If all the extras are included, will that be more expensive than standard ATX PSU?
everything is wired up.
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
nice I was thinking about going with server psu but how exactly do you power the motherboard thankscables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
Same question. Do you need adaptor for the ATX power socket?
yes n a little more than that, most likely u will need a server psu, a breakout board n a atx adapter powered by the server psu aka pico but u MUST be able to get those good ones ! if not it will burn & may or may not cause the mobo to burn too.
i've been busy with couple of ongoing projects.
i may launch a complete kit soon. couple of things are on order.
happy mining & be safe.
everything is wired up.
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
nice I was thinking about going with server psu but how exactly do you power the motherboard thankscables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
Same question. Do you need adaptor for the ATX power socket?
everything is wired up.
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
nice I was thinking about going with server psu but how exactly do you power the motherboard thanks cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
everything is wired up.
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
cables are hidden, not a fan of messy rig/cables.
server psu
i dont or rarely use atx psu's anymore
my recent build
my recent build
nice set up
so how do u power those cards i dont see cables? or am i just blind?
whats your PSU/Power set up?
mining scrypt in 2013 and melted a HD7990 with a PCIE power connection, card still works but yeah u can get arc's happening
was all under warranty so was ok
hope u get it working better
was all under warranty so was ok
hope u get it working better
i dont or rarely use atx psu's anymore
my recent build
my recent build
if possible use a good brand/quality of psu & pcie if & when possible.
from what i see, you are using a single pcie cable with the split at the end (6 + (6+2) 8 pin) to power a power hungry gpu & that could be the main reason it started to melt.
try to use individual cables.
i disagree on the plugging & unplugging of 30 times shortens or have any impact on pcie cables, agree on the poorer quality ones but if well taken care & checked properly before each use, it should last much longer than that.
another good way/tip to check on your cables is to make sure they get some sort of airflow over them, normally the yellow cable +12v would start to turn yellowish & thats a good indication to STOP using that cable or do something about it.
the area of the yellowish part is normally harder to twist and bend, it becomes hard & if you have some tools & have no other choice, you can snip away that part & re-pin them with a new pcie plastic housing.
always check on your cables if you are in doubt, visually & physically such as the temp on the cables if they're too hot to touch.
happy mining & always be safe
from what i see, you are using a single pcie cable with the split at the end (6 + (6+2) 8 pin) to power a power hungry gpu & that could be the main reason it started to melt.
try to use individual cables.
i disagree on the plugging & unplugging of 30 times shortens or have any impact on pcie cables, agree on the poorer quality ones but if well taken care & checked properly before each use, it should last much longer than that.
another good way/tip to check on your cables is to make sure they get some sort of airflow over them, normally the yellow cable +12v would start to turn yellowish & thats a good indication to STOP using that cable or do something about it.
the area of the yellowish part is normally harder to twist and bend, it becomes hard & if you have some tools & have no other choice, you can snip away that part & re-pin them with a new pcie plastic housing.
always check on your cables if you are in doubt, visually & physically such as the temp on the cables if they're too hot to touch.
happy mining & always be safe
indeed id prefer single cables but most psu come with split ones sadly (the cx 750 is an exception here)
from the screens available this one seems to have single cables: Zalman EBT Series ZM1200-EBT
anybody used it / is it good quality?
another option would be dual psu with add2psu, but id need to check availability in my country
if possible use a good brand/quality of psu & pcie if & when possible.
from what i see, you are using a single pcie cable with the split at the end (6 + (6+2) 8 pin) to power a power hungry gpu & that could be the main reason it started to melt.
try to use individual cables.
i disagree on the plugging & unplugging of 30 times shortens or have any impact on pcie cables, agree on the poorer quality ones but if well taken care & checked properly before each use, it should last much longer than that.
another good way/tip to check on your cables is to make sure they get some sort of airflow over them, normally the yellow cable +12v would start to turn yellowish & thats a good indication to STOP using that cable or do something about it.
the area of the yellowish part is normally harder to twist and bend, it becomes hard & if you have some tools & have no other choice, you can snip away that part & re-pin them with a new pcie plastic housing.
always check on your cables if you are in doubt, visually & physically such as the temp on the cables if they're too hot to touch.
happy mining & always be safe
from what i see, you are using a single pcie cable with the split at the end (6 + (6+2) 8 pin) to power a power hungry gpu & that could be the main reason it started to melt.
try to use individual cables.
i disagree on the plugging & unplugging of 30 times shortens or have any impact on pcie cables, agree on the poorer quality ones but if well taken care & checked properly before each use, it should last much longer than that.
another good way/tip to check on your cables is to make sure they get some sort of airflow over them, normally the yellow cable +12v would start to turn yellowish & thats a good indication to STOP using that cable or do something about it.
the area of the yellowish part is normally harder to twist and bend, it becomes hard & if you have some tools & have no other choice, you can snip away that part & re-pin them with a new pcie plastic housing.
always check on your cables if you are in doubt, visually & physically such as the temp on the cables if they're too hot to touch.
happy mining & always be safe
i have noticed some other connector also got pretty hot it seems (yellow turned brown-ish a bit, but not melted yet) and my supplier offers partly refunds (80%) on the RMA so ill just buy a new (different) one
it should be able to handle about 4 x 7970
my current config is: 7870(6+6pin) + 280x(8+6pin) + 7990(8+8pin)
in another system i have a FSP Fortron/Source Aurum Pro 1200W working fine, but im looking for alternatives as well (it was the cheapest 1200W with 8x 8pin psu)
suggestions?
edit: another option would be: Seasonic Prime Gold 1200W
it should be able to handle about 4 x 7970
my current config is: 7870(6+6pin) + 280x(8+6pin) + 7990(8+8pin)
in another system i have a FSP Fortron/Source Aurum Pro 1200W working fine, but im looking for alternatives as well (it was the cheapest 1200W with 8x 8pin psu)
suggestions?
edit: another option would be: Seasonic Prime Gold 1200W
as the connector on the PSU got burned and it has warranty ill just RMA it, thanks though, might come in handy for others without warranty
cheers
as reference the burned connector, gpu side is fine:
cheers
as reference the burned connector, gpu side is fine:
not sure if this applies to what is broke...but here is an adapter trick for a knc titan cube (works well with a 16 awg split adapter)
for what it is worth...(I have 2 of these with this issue it works well)
Not sure if this applies to your problem ..but just in case it does...you won't have to replace the plug on teh board?
also sent a pm
anyway for what it is worth..may not apply to you..but hey no harm in posting the links below in case it can work
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.13872248
Below is using common 16awg Y adapter....this is the KNC model came with the cube...just clean the plastic gunk off to bare pins and do below
Anyway for what it is worth
Let us know if such a hack worked in your case (with pics) and if not if you have a work around (with pics)
for what it is worth...(I have 2 of these with this issue it works well)
Not sure if this applies to your problem ..but just in case it does...you won't have to replace the plug on teh board?
also sent a pm
anyway for what it is worth..may not apply to you..but hey no harm in posting the links below in case it can work
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.13872248
Below is using common 16awg Y adapter....this is the KNC model came with the cube...just clean the plastic gunk off to bare pins and do below
Anyway for what it is worth
Let us know if such a hack worked in your case (with pics) and if not if you have a work around (with pics) 
buy corsair or evga, i usually discard every other psu
It has nothing to do with the amount of power the GPU uses because the 280x has usually 1x6 pin + 1x8pin connector, so 6 +12V wires.
This usually happens because the female end of the modular PSU keeps getting looser and looser everytime you plug it in and out. Either that or you had the wire hanging at an angle and it wasn't in horizontally but was tilted at an angle and caused a bad connection.
This is why I hate modular PSUs and usually love PSUs like the Corsair CX750 however most 1000Watt > PSUs are modular.
This is very common and if you search it happens to people with $500 Platinum PSUs who never mined in their life they were just gamers.
This usually happens because the female end of the modular PSU keeps getting looser and looser everytime you plug it in and out. Either that or you had the wire hanging at an angle and it wasn't in horizontally but was tilted at an angle and caused a bad connection.
This is why I hate modular PSUs and usually love PSUs like the Corsair CX750 however most 1000Watt > PSUs are modular.
This is very common and if you search it happens to people with $500 Platinum PSUs who never mined in their life they were just gamers.
hmm, no angles at the psu side (where it broke), only at the gpu side
i also own a cx750, so far it has been working great
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