Topic: Dual-purpose DPS800/DPS1200 breakout board - page 2. (Read 6596 times)
I won't really have board available for a couple weeks, as the first half-batch sold out and my immediate budgets for both parts and manufacturing time are spoken for already. However, both ASICPuppy and HolyBitcoin were among the initial orders so both sites should have 'em up for sale soon. Not sure what ASICPuppy will have for cables, but HolyScott specifically requested 6-pin jacks because he had a surplus of pretty good double-ended cables already.
Good information, thanks for the explanation and link. Guess I need to go pick up a little infrared thermometer and take a look at my board, I might be picking up a new sidehack one straight away depending what I see temp wise. Or maybe like you said I'll just upgrade now...
Part of the burnt jbberwock board is due to more then 170 watts a jack.
The s-5 pulls 650 watts so four jacks is 162.5 watts.
The a6 pulls 900-1000 watts so four jacks is 225 to 250 watts
The s-7 pulls 1300 watts so 9 jacks is 143 watts
Most burn outs of his boards are on the a6. The a4 the sp20.
Not the s-7 or the s-5.
Sidehacks y-cables are flawless so far
Good information, thanks for the explanation and link. Guess I need to go pick up a little infrared thermometer and take a look at my board, I might be picking up a new sidehack one straight away depending what I see temp wise. Or maybe like you said I'll just upgrade now...
just had anther of jabs boards over heat and burn up this time with a s5 at normal speeds 
i have that s5 on a 2 k psu now with one of opts boards no over heating issues at the plug sigh ... i throw that board a way .
So ill be getting two more sides boards soon .
Is that a normal occurrence for those to burn up? How hot of an ambient environment are you in? Makes me nervous to leave mine running unattended if it has melt down potential and I will update to sidehack's board right now if that is the case. i have that s5 on a 2 k psu now with one of opts boards no over heating issues at the plug sigh ... i throw that board a way .So ill be getting two more sides boards soon .
I am hoping to get the right weather in may a 90f day.
Turn off all my gear but the 2 a6's get the garage to 99f and see what happens,
Turn off all my gear but the 2 a6's get the garage to 99f and see what happens,
Got my one board today , i love it all ready very good feel etc etc i mean that .
cya
cya
it cooled back off my test gear is showing just about exactly equally the gold 1200 aurum head to head against the 1200 hp with side hacks board.
all pcie jacks are under 45 c .
So far so good.
all pcie jacks are under 45 c .
So far so good.
my test unit is chugging along. house finally got too hot I had to turn on the ac
AC we had ours on the last two days turned it off last nite got to cold
one day got to 91 .
my test unit is chugging along. house finally got too hot I had to turn on the ac
Connectors are in and they look good. Built a jig to help streamline assembly. I'll put in time over the weekend to finish them all out, get everything cleaned and tested and bagged. All current orders (including reseller stock) should be out Tuesday.
Speaking of 120 or 240 volts I moved both psu's from 120 to 240 volts.
the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
one kwatt meter was 1000 at the plug the other 1050 at the plug
so 2000 to 2100 watts for 6500 gh = .307 to .323 watts per kwatt combined and each one is basically equal
so the hp 1200 psu is doing gold rated
as is the aurum psu
I have managed to do lower with some platinum psu's but they are 2x the price of a sidehack + a hp 1200
the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
one kwatt meter was 1000 at the plug the other 1050 at the plug
so 2000 to 2100 watts for 6500 gh = .307 to .323 watts per kwatt combined and each one is basically equal
so the hp 1200 psu is doing gold rated
as is the aurum psu
I have managed to do lower with some platinum psu's but they are 2x the price of a sidehack + a hp 1200
Do refer to the quick Spec link I posted when you buy the HP PSU's http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04111541 as they are made in all 80Plus ranges from Bronze up to Titanium. The price a seller wants is one clue to what the eff rating is if they do not say it outright. Hopefully they give the HP model number for easy reference...
The cheapest I picked up on Amazon was around $25 for one, turns out is Silver rated (was before I found the spec link). Thankfully I was wary of the ones I've seen for $15-20. Most from Amazon running around $30-45 turn out to be be the Golds. You can find Platinum rated ones but they generally start around $75 or higher and they are explicitly advertised as such for easy searching.. Also, if you have the $$$ some Titanium rated HP's show up from time to time. Still cheaper than most same-rated ATX PSU's though.
It's important to note that the PSU power rating is for the OUTPUT, and not "at the wall". So if the A6 draws say 1005W at the wall, as my A6 does, that's roughly in the range of a maxed out, 90% efficient, 900W PSU. Not good long term for the PSU, but but it could certainly work for a while.
Which is why I switched test to the 240 volt line as it eases the hp 1200 .
As it rates higher for 240 volt then 120 volt.
It's important to note that the PSU power rating is for the OUTPUT, and not "at the wall". So if the A6 draws say 1005W at the wall, as my A6 does, that's roughly in the range of a maxed out, 90% efficient, 900W PSU. Not good long term for the PSU, but but it could certainly work for a while.
Speaking of 120 or 240 volts I moved both psu's from 120 to 240 volts.
the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
I understood that the HP psu would max out at 900 watts with only 120 volt supply, yet you saw over 1000 watts at the wall from it? That was the reason I wired my for 240, so that I could realize the full potential of the psu. And yea, I think the efficiency increase from 120 to 240 is only like ~3%, so that would likely fall within the error range for any retail power meters to report. the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
Speaking of 120 or 240 volts I moved both psu's from 120 to 240 volts.
the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
one kwatt meter was 1000 at the plug the other 1050 at the plug
so 2000 to 2100 watts for 6500 gh = .307 to .323 watts per kwatt combined and each one is basically equal
so the hp 1200 psu is doing gold rated
as is the aurum psu
I have managed to do lower with some platinum psu's but they are 2x the price of a sidehack + a hp 1200
the numbers are so close it really is all equal with a 1 or 2 % error margin
one kwatt meter was 1000 at the plug the other 1050 at the plug
so 2000 to 2100 watts for 6500 gh = .307 to .323 watts per kwatt combined and each one is basically equal
so the hp 1200 psu is doing gold rated
as is the aurum psu
I have managed to do lower with some platinum psu's but they are 2x the price of a sidehack + a hp 1200
Hey, I didn't say all amateur electricians were jackasses, just some are bivocational. I've always done my own electrical, including all the 3-phase wiring for my 100KW hosting setup, and all I got is six years of engineering university and growing up the son of a building trades instructor. What I said was, sometimes things are wired up wrong and/or dangerously by jackasses resulting in the case no longer being grounded. Like whoever wired up the dryer plug in that house thought it was a great idea to provide 120V for a 240V dryer and put the other 120V leg on the chassis of the machine sitting right next to a big box full of water. It's almost like they were trying to kill someone. Needless to say, in the first week after I moved into that house I spent a day redoing about half the wiring in the basement.
PSU connectors are supposed to arrive today, which means these boards will start going out the door pretty soon.
PSU connectors are supposed to arrive today, which means these boards will start going out the door pretty soon.
Holy shit. Talk about being retarded! Surely the dryer didn't work with only 120v? Didn't the idiot realize something was wrong? Damn.
Hey, I didn't say all amateur electricians were jackasses, just some are bivocational. I've always done my own electrical, including all the 3-phase wiring for my 100KW hosting setup, and all I got is six years of engineering university and growing up the son of a building trades instructor. What I said was, sometimes things are wired up wrong and/or dangerously by jackasses resulting in the case no longer being grounded. Like whoever wired up the dryer plug in that house thought it was a great idea to provide 120V for a 240V dryer and put the other 120V leg on the chassis of the machine sitting right next to a big box full of water. It's almost like they were trying to kill someone. Needless to say, in the first week after I moved into that house I spent a day redoing about half the wiring in the basement.
PSU connectors are supposed to arrive today, which means these boards will start going out the door pretty soon.
PSU connectors are supposed to arrive today, which means these boards will start going out the door pretty soon.
simple this a temporary place next spot will be different. next spot will need a bar to be mounted.
Here is how I mounted mine, it's hung with a good gap between it and the metal rack and it has a nice cool-air supply from a vent to outside. You are using metal racks, you could hang them below.
sometimes the plug is wired in by an amateur electrician slash professional jackass
My power plug is, *ahem* using my 240 dryer plug with a wire made by me, and that's Registered Professional Engineer/jackass thank you very much, but I done made it good. 
Also illegal. Course sometimes the plug is wired in by an amateur electrician slash professional jackass. House I was in a couple years ago had the dryer plug wired with one hot leg hooked to case ground.
But yeah, inside the PSU the case should be ground or isolated.
But yeah, inside the PSU the case should be ground or isolated.
we do that now with the dryer plug and our external gen if the power goes out i had a plug made by a friend who works with a heating company a while back so we can power our house if the power goes out just plug it into the dryer plug when the power does just make sure to turn the main breaker off first and hot water heater breaker or the drain will shut down the gen or even mess it up or it may not even power up. we have our house powered during a power out age with out spending 10 k for a GEN for the cost of a plug and 1 k for good gas gen from home depot with water heat and air tv internet etc just no heated water . we keep gas on hand encase.
and yea our state doesn't like that idea but we don't like having power off for days either sometimes so f them . how i feel were careful doing it .
Yep, there's all kinds of information if you go looking for it, but since selling these boards keeps food on my table I'm not really of a mind to help circumvent that.
Look at my profile. I'm from Russia. It is foolish to consider me a rival.
Information is needed only for personal use.
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