Topic: Gigabyte GTX 1070 ITX - Problems? (Read 1845 times)

Here we go...

http://oi67.tinypic.com/2rq2j35.jpg

Any idea on the full spec of that fuse?
I'm thinking of just soldering an external fuse holder.

This is the exact issue 2 cards have had already and shipping it back for RMA just to replace the fuse seems ridiculous. Rather not waste my money on shipping since fuses are much cheaper.

No exact spec sorry. My educated guess would be a fast blow 10A ceramic fuse in a 1206 SMT package. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-fuse-inc/0685H9100-01/507-1942-1-ND/5466714

I'll probably order ten or so since they're cheap...

My only 1070 ITX with this issue (out of 8 total) is still going strong and i still have that cheap multimeter acting as a fuse on it because I have other things to do. It's also fun to watch current readings fluctuate around 6.0A

-scsi

So I guess this was not the same issue on mine.
The fuse is blown, but there seems to be a more serious underlying cause. The PSU instantly went into a protect mode if I shorted across the fuse.
Wouldn't doubt if I made things worse.

Well, looks like they had a reason to put the fuse in there after all. And I will repeat myself by saying that I've never seen a regular fuse on any of the other 1070's where I can actually see the parts, i.e. open back. Sounds like an afterthought on Gigabyte part and a cheap choice of fuse to boot.

I bought a card that turns out to be dead (no signal, no fan). so pretty likely it is this exact issue. See this Ghetto repair, looks promising: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9wlcse/ghetto_fuse_repair_on_gigabyte_gtx_1070_mini_itx/

I am looking for a more refined fix though Wink

I am not an electrics expert, but why not replace this with the same parts that you mention for other 1070s?

- Polyfuse like your other (Gigabyte Mini?) 1070s seem to have?
- Low ohm current sensing resistor?

Or does this not fit into the rest of the Gigabytes 1070 Mini circuitry?

Bohr256

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Last week (around the same time you posted), the one gygabyte gpu I have (sans itx) stopped working too. Mine had to do w/ the drivers, nothing an update couldn't fix. Just kinda weird.

jojo01

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Quote from: nzalog on July 23, 2017, 12:23:41 AM

Here we go...

http://oi67.tinypic.com/2rq2j35.jpg

can you give me the pic again?

SCSI2

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Quote from: SCSI2 on July 22, 2017, 11:40:55 PM

Quote from: SCSI2 on July 22, 2017, 11:40:55 PM

Here we go...

Any idea on the full spec of that fuse?
I'm thinking of just soldering an external fuse holder.

This is the exact issue 2 cards have had already and shipping it back for RMA just to replace the fuse seems ridiculous. Rather not waste my money on shipping since fuses are much cheaper.

No exact spec sorry. My educated guess would be a fast blow 10A ceramic fuse in a 1206 SMT package. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-fuse-inc/0685H9100-01/507-1942-1-ND/5466714

I'll probably order ten or so since they're cheap...

My only 1070 ITX with this issue (out of 8 total) is still going strong and i still have that cheap multimeter acting as a fuse on it because I have other things to do. It's also fun to watch current readings fluctuate around 6.0A

-scsi

So I guess this was not the same issue on mine.
The fuse is blown, but there seems to be a more serious underlying cause. The PSU instantly went into a protect mode if I shorted across the fuse.
Wouldn't doubt if I made things worse.

Well, looks like they had a reason to put the fuse in there after all. And I will repeat myself by saying that I've never seen a regular fuse on any of the other 1070's where I can actually see the parts, i.e. open back. Sounds like an afterthought on Gigabyte part and a cheap choice of fuse to boot.

nzalog

newbie

Activity: 16

Merit: 0

Here we go...

http://oi67.tinypic.com/2rq2j35.jpg

Any idea on the full spec of that fuse?
I'm thinking of just soldering an external fuse holder.

This is the exact issue 2 cards have had already and shipping it back for RMA just to replace the fuse seems ridiculous. Rather not waste my money on shipping since fuses are much cheaper.

No exact spec sorry. My educated guess would be a fast blow 10A ceramic fuse in a 1206 SMT package. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-fuse-inc/0685H9100-01/507-1942-1-ND/5466714

I'll probably order ten or so since they're cheap...

My only 1070 ITX with this issue (out of 8 total) is still going strong and i still have that cheap multimeter acting as a fuse on it because I have other things to do. It's also fun to watch current readings fluctuate around 6.0A

-scsi

So I guess this was not the same issue on mine.
The fuse is blown, but there seems to be a more serious underlying cause. The PSU instantly went into a protect mode if I shorted across the fuse.
Wouldn't doubt if I made things worse.

szafa

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Merit: 500

Sell this card if the problem.

SCSI2

full member

Activity: 206

Merit: 100

Here we go...

Any idea on the full spec of that fuse?
I'm thinking of just soldering an external fuse holder.

This is the exact issue 2 cards have had already and shipping it back for RMA just to replace the fuse seems ridiculous. Rather not waste my money on shipping since fuses are much cheaper.

No exact spec sorry. My educated guess would be a fast blow 10A ceramic fuse in a 1206 SMT package. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-fuse-inc/0685H9100-01/507-1942-1-ND/5466714

I'll probably order ten or so since they're cheap...

My only 1070 ITX with this issue (out of 8 total) is still going strong and i still have that cheap multimeter acting as a fuse on it because I have other things to do. It's also fun to watch current readings fluctuate around 6.0A

-scsi

nzalog

newbie

Activity: 16

Merit: 0

Quote from: philipma1957 on July 07, 2017, 08:04:29 AM

Here we go...

http://oi67.tinypic.com/2rq2j35.jpg

Any idea on the full spec of that fuse?
I'm thinking of just soldering an external fuse holder.

This is the exact issue 2 cards have had already and shipping it back for RMA just to replace the fuse seems ridiculous. Rather not waste my money on shipping since fuses are much cheaper.

SCSI2

full member

Activity: 206

Merit: 100

...

6.6amp is really high. I suspect that the firmware is not ideal on gigabyte 1070's and on 1080ti aorus.

I have a few msi itx and the part/fuse in question is different.
The pcb board looks very similar . I will photo the msi late today.

Most likely you don't have a fuse there but rather a low ohm current-sensing resistor. It's probably somewhat large and has an R005 or some similar value. Very easy to monitor current consumption by simply measuring the voltage drop across that part and using ohms law.

On all cards in my possession which don't have the backplate covering the parts, I see they use current-sensing resistors in that circuit and only Gigabyte 1070 ITX has plain vanilla fuse in there.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Quote from: SCSI2 on July 07, 2017, 02:47:43 AM

Quote from: philipma1957 on July 04, 2017, 06:25:26 PM

Quote from: philipma1957 on July 04, 2017, 06:25:26 PM

Oh yeah! I had one out of eight die on me on Sunday for no apparent reason. Didn't want to wait for newegg to RMA it and took a closer look at it.

Out of all cards I have, this one is the only 1070 that has a regular 10A FUSE (not polyfuse) marked F4 mounted on the back side right next to the PCIe fingers. It's a small white ceramic part (1206 size I think) with 10 written on it and it was blown open! No visible damage to it, just blown inside.

Today I soldered two AWG20 wires across the dead fuse and hooked up a cheap ass multimeter capable of measuring 10A DC current. The damn card works flawlessly and pulls 6.6A over that fuse (WTF!!) under full overclocked load. That's 80W of power via PCIe. I would never expect that much and now wonder how much does it pull from the 8-pin connector on the top... probably 2A?

So... to confirm, just get a multimeter and measure continuity of the F4 fuse. I think it is simply undersized for this design.

P.S. The risers I use are all V006C with 20A poly fuse onboard, but that obviously didn't help and the poor card blew itself up.

Let me know if any of you have this same fuse blown...

-scsi

nice find let us know if it keeps working.

The card keeps working like nothing happened for two days non-stop. Multimeter acts as a "fuse" for now and still shows 6.6A under full load. Tomorrow will get clamp-on current meter and measure other wires.

6.6amp is really high. I suspect that the firmware is not ideal on gigabyte 1070's and on 1080ti aorus.

I have a few msi itx and the part/fuse in question is different.
The pcb board looks very similar . I will photo the msi late today.

SCSI2

full member

Activity: 206

Merit: 100

Quote from: QuintLeo on July 05, 2017, 03:47:58 PM

Oh yeah! I had one out of eight die on me on Sunday for no apparent reason. Didn't want to wait for newegg to RMA it and took a closer look at it.

Out of all cards I have, this one is the only 1070 that has a regular 10A FUSE (not polyfuse) marked F4 mounted on the back side right next to the PCIe fingers. It's a small white ceramic part (1206 size I think) with 10 written on it and it was blown open! No visible damage to it, just blown inside.

Today I soldered two AWG20 wires across the dead fuse and hooked up a cheap ass multimeter capable of measuring 10A DC current. The damn card works flawlessly and pulls 6.6A over that fuse (WTF!!) under full overclocked load. That's 80W of power via PCIe. I would never expect that much and now wonder how much does it pull from the 8-pin connector on the top... probably 2A?

So... to confirm, just get a multimeter and measure continuity of the F4 fuse. I think it is simply undersized for this design.

P.S. The risers I use are all V006C with 20A poly fuse onboard, but that obviously didn't help and the poor card blew itself up.

Let me know if any of you have this same fuse blown...

-scsi

nice find let us know if it keeps working.

The card keeps working like nothing happened for two days non-stop. Multimeter acts as a "fuse" for now and still shows 6.6A under full load. Tomorrow will get clamp-on current meter and measure other wires.

un4given

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i can also confirm strange behavior on some of my ITX OC cards. I have been using them since January with 70% TDP and +200 core for ZEC Mining. Temps were pretty ok with 65 degrees but it is a no long run solution. No in Summer Temps go up to 80 degree and i told miner to switch off the card if it reaches 80 degrees celsius.

One Cards Fan dies 2 days ago and i just plugged the whole fan thingie off and using an adapter plugged a normal 120 MM Fan to it using cable binders Cheesy

Another card in 6x 1070 rig not showing anymore in Windows, need to investigate on weekend...hope it didnt burn down...maybe riser is dead

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Today I soldered two AWG20 wires across the dead fuse and hooked up a cheap ass multimeter capable of measuring 10A DC current. The damn card works flawlessly and pulls 6.6A over that fuse (WTF!!) under full overclocked load. That's 80W of power via PCIe.

Slightly out of spec as PCI-E allows for a 75 watt draw from the bus.
Seems odd that they would prioritise draw out of the bus and not the plug-in connector though.

"Target Temp" settings in both Afterburner and PrecisionX have never worked well for me, it's WHY I insist on being able to set fan curves (they work MUCH more reliably).

I suspect that the reason Afterburner will sometimes "lose control of the card" is due to the driver resetting - that DEFINITELY can confuse NVIDIA-SMI and I don't see why it would not confuse 3'd party solutions as well.

so far all my 10 series nvidia it only happened on my gigabyte aorus. So it is hard to say what to do for other cards. but I do set all gigabyte cards to 3rd party and nothing goes wrong.

mind you I mostly moved all rigs to nvoc0017 my preferred os for nvidia

QuintLeo

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