I always hear about horror stories with regards to rebates. I've sent in ~300 rebates in the past 6 years or so and I've had trouble with 5 of them. The rest have gone without a hitch. I have no idea what I do differently than other people, but the few times I've had a hassle, I sent copies of everything I sent them and they sent the rebate promptly... so even those 5 turned out good. I can't recall a single time I never got a rebate that I was due in the end.
Topic: I have 3 5970s on the way; now what? (Read 4520 times)
I need to do the same with 3 5830s.... anyone got the el cheapo combo to run continuously caseless in the garage or laundry room
What ? Combo ?5830 and 5970 are different beast, use a good 600w and so be it.
BTW guys there is a good deal on the ENERMAX MAXREVO 210$ after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817194092
Great deal....but I've learned never to count on rebates.I've gotten back about 25% of all I have sent in for & I'm anal about following the directions for them.
I need to do the same with 3 5830s.... anyone got the el cheapo combo to run continuously caseless in the garage or laundry room
What ? Combo ?5830 and 5970 are different beast, use a good 600w and so be it.
BTW guys there is a good deal on the ENERMAX MAXREVO 210$ after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817194092
I need to do the same with 3 5830s.... anyone got the el cheapo combo to run continuously caseless in the garage or laundry room
Prove it. Go on... lets see a link. Show me where Antec has changed OEM manufacturers but kept the same model number. I'll wait...
Keep spewing your bullshit, I'm sure someone, somewhere is listening and giving a shit. But so far, I've yet to see a post from you that is anything but mindless drivel with absolutely nothing to back it up.
And yet AGAIN... for the third or fourth time, I ask you how am I suppose to identify a PSU if I don't give the model number? Answer this one question. Why do you keep avoiding it? Because you know your statement is completely asinine and now you can't back out of it? That's my guess. Man up and admit you were being an idiot and we can move on.
What does this even mean, anyway? Does being Eurotrash make you angry like your American White Trash counterparts or something?
Keep spewing your bullshit, I'm sure someone, somewhere is listening and giving a shit. But so far, I've yet to see a post from you that is anything but mindless drivel with absolutely nothing to back it up.
And yet AGAIN... for the third or fourth time, I ask you how am I suppose to identify a PSU if I don't give the model number? Answer this one question. Why do you keep avoiding it? Because you know your statement is completely asinine and now you can't back out of it? That's my guess. Man up and admit you were being an idiot and we can move on.
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Keep arguing and i can care shitless.
What does this even mean, anyway? Does being Eurotrash make you angry like your American White Trash counterparts or something?
So again, I ask you, how would you have me identify a particular PSU without using the name? As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
The True series has had different OEMs in the past without noticing or model revising. This makes your post completely invalid and moot.
Maybe thro your mighty experience, you overlooked this.
Keep arguing and i can care shitless.
My point was if Antec (or any reputable company except Netgear - which incidentally I don't consider reputable anyway) were to change OEM manufacturers, it is typically accompanied by a product model number change as well. At no time did I state or imply that companies don't change OEM manufacturers. Does this hold true 100% of the time? No, but typically in the high end enthusiast market, which the Antec 1200w is definitely in, this is the case simply because the target market will know/learn very fast that something has changed, for better or worse.
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Not sure Im understandig you correctly, but all nearly PSU's are just rebranded OEM products. You can find the oem here:
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
One thing to point out is since the OEM name is rarely known or connected to the product they have no problem making a PSU as well built or cheaply built as the brand wants them to.
So 2 PSU from different brands but same OEM can have vastly different build quality, and regulation performance.
As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
Not sure Im understandig you correctly, but all nearly PSU's are just rebranded OEM products. You can find the oem here:
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
Someone mentioned 2 PSU's on a single mobo,check this out 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21193
Yeah it just connects the activation pins of the 2nd PSU to the mobo "PSU on pins" so the first one switches on the 2nd one also.http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21193
Or you can just short the two pins on the 2nd PSU and switch it on/off manually
But the important point about having 2 PSU is that they are both the same quality and both high quality.
If you connect a high and low quality PSU you can use almost 2x the power necessary.
In my case when I first tried it (it was late at night and I could only find an old cheap PSU lying around when I worked out I needed more power was the cause of the constant shutdowns) I was using over 700W to power 2 x 6950 + Motherboard.
When I replaced the 2nd PSU with a better quality one, it dropped to 410W and has been ever since ...
They're not very high quality but I'd be certain it would drop maybe up to as much as another 50W if I had high quality PSU's
Someone mentioned 2 PSU's on a single mobo,check this out
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21193
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21193
So again, I ask you, how would you have me identify a particular PSU without using the name? As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs.
So do your due diligence and search.
How does my comment, in any way, indicate that I am basing my experience off of a brand name: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=177
Did you ever consider that perhaps I *might* actually know what I'm talking about in the technical realm? How, exactly, would you have me identify an Antec 1200w PSU, if I don't use it's brand name? Should I just post a product number instead, because, you know, that'll make things clear. Additionally, I was posting my experience between the two PSU's that I have, so again, should I just not identify which PSU that I have and am actively using as being superior, making the post completely useless?
Have you ever considered Antec might use different OEM during their production of a particular model? and yes your post is very vague. Antec makes tons of POS products, only some particular models are being produced by quality OEM. By the time someone read your post, they would think of different model.
I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs.
So do your due diligence and search.
How does my comment, in any way, indicate that I am basing my experience off of a brand name: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=177
Did you ever consider that perhaps I *might* actually know what I'm talking about in the technical realm? How, exactly, would you have me identify an Antec 1200w PSU, if I don't use it's brand name? Should I just post a product number instead, because, you know, that'll make things clear. Additionally, I was posting my experience between the two PSU's that I have, so again, should I just not identify which PSU that I have and am actively using as being superior, making the post completely useless?
I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs.
So do your due diligence and search.
Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140?
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
Hmm, this sent me to Amazon; there I find that the equivalent 750W unit is $174. And I don't have to have a second PSU hanging off my open case nor worry about hooking them together ("uh, electrons are the yellow ones, right?").IMHO, this is just wasting money.
Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140?
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
You can get a 700W 80Plus-Gold PSU w/ 5 year warranty for $70?
Or did you mean $140ea? If so I wouldn't say paying $20 more for higher quality with higher efficiency and warranty is a waste of money.
It might be a good time to reiterate that I've ordered a top-of-the-line, +12V single-rail, hugely expensive ($287.43) 1200W PSU: Corsair AX1200 (although in my previous post I swapped the "AX" and the "1200").
Professional Series™ Gold AX1200 — 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully-Modular Power Supply
Professional Series™ Gold AX1200 — 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully-Modular Power Supply
Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140?
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
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Quick question do you run your rigs @ 230V? Either at home or in your datacenter. I am thinking about maybe running a pair of 230V 30A lines in my garage to squeeze another 5% or so efficiency out of the rigs as well as move them all to dedicated circuits.
I actually just switched two of my home rigs over to 240v as a test and it seems to be working out very well... and it reduced my amp load requirements for the wiring. If I were to do it all over again, I would just run new 240v lines. In the DC, the rigs I have are currently on 120v - the cost doubles for 240v (but I only need half the amps, so it's a wash) - so I haven't bothered to change out my power requirements in the DC.
I would highly recommend running the lines to your garage if you are skating on the edge of your AMP rating of your wiring now, like I was. I'm trying to figure a way to wire up upstairs computer room with 240v heh. Not an easy task sadly, with the breakerbox in the basement.
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It might be a good time to reiterate that I've ordered a top-of-the-line, +12V single-rail, hugely expensive ($287.43) 1200W PSU: Corsair AX1200 (although in my previous post I swapped the "AX" and the "1200").
I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
It might be a good time to reiterate that I've ordered a top-of-the-line, +12V single-rail, hugely expensive ($287.43) 1200W PSU: Corsair AX1200 (although in my previous post I swapped the "AX" and the "1200").
Professional Series™ Gold AX1200 — 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully-Modular Power Supply
Professional Series™ Gold AX1200 — 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully-Modular Power Supply
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