Doesn't look too hard to resolder. Just swipe over all the wires on the back to solder them all on (after applying flux). Then use a copper wick to clean up the joints, like clearing any bridges.
Here's a video tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE#t=1172
Topic: I might be seriously f***ed.... (Read 3403 times)
My Fury freaks out now and again, totally dead. If I leave it to totally cool down, it'll start hashing again.
Try to reflow it. Maybe there is a bad BGA ball contact causing intermitted contact when the chip heats up and expands. 
I repair mobile phones and could solder the usb connection properly if you lived near me
LOL @ indian repair shop that said it's "too small" to repair
LOL @ indian repair shop that said it's "too small" to repair
My Fury freaks out now and again, totally dead. If I leave it to totally cool down, it'll start hashing again.
Any competent electronic shop can repair that in less than 10 minutes. Check your area for "Electronic Contract Manufacturer". They'll probably charge you tech time at 40-100 bucks per hour (depending on area of the country), but it's a piece of cake repair. Yeah, the pads and some of the traces have been ripped off, but that's no big deal for anyone who is a real technician.
If there are no Electronic CM's in your area, try a HAM Radio repair shop - some of those guys are pretty darn good.
I can't even tell you how many USB/HDMI/etc connectors I've fixed for people who did the exact same thing. Solder connector in place, solder pins to any remaining pads/traces, use wire-wrap wire to extend pins to missing pads/traces. Easy as pie. Add a few dabs of scotchcast for good measure so that the connector can NEVER again be ripped off.
Best of luck,
Enigma
If there are no Electronic CM's in your area, try a HAM Radio repair shop - some of those guys are pretty darn good.
I can't even tell you how many USB/HDMI/etc connectors I've fixed for people who did the exact same thing. Solder connector in place, solder pins to any remaining pads/traces, use wire-wrap wire to extend pins to missing pads/traces. Easy as pie. Add a few dabs of scotchcast for good measure so that the connector can NEVER again be ripped off.
Best of luck,
Enigma
Okay, so recently i purchased a bitburner fury from ebay. The miner was running for around 2-3 days then t started to go into zombie mode and the only way i found to fix this was to re-plug the USB cable. When i went to do this around the 7th time. The USB port snapped off the board [picture].
So i started googling and people where saying take it to a computer/phone repair shop. I took it to a small indian shop and they said it was too small to repair. I took it to a major PC repair place in my town and they said the actual connectors themselves had snapped off so I have no idea what i can do next.
Any suggestions would be great. i would solder it myself but it is WAY too small.
I have read you can get a pic debugging kit or something but I dont think you can mine with that, i only think you can debug or firmware update with that.
Any help would be great! if you help me find a solution i will tip you BTC!
So i started googling and people where saying take it to a computer/phone repair shop. I took it to a small indian shop and they said it was too small to repair. I took it to a major PC repair place in my town and they said the actual connectors themselves had snapped off so I have no idea what i can do next.
Any suggestions would be great. i would solder it myself but it is WAY too small.
I have read you can get a pic debugging kit or something but I dont think you can mine with that, i only think you can debug or firmware update with that.
Any help would be great! if you help me find a solution i will tip you BTC!
Look up information on repairing surface mount PCB traces. At one time, someone had posted a repair video on hackaday. I did manage to find this:
http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/4-7-1.shtml
All is not lost, what is broken can often be fixed with time, knowledge, and money.
http://www.circuitmedic.com/products/circuitframes.shtml seems to be a product that would allow you to replace the peeled pads
Okay, so recently i purchased a bitburner fury from ebay. The miner was running for around 2-3 days then t started to go into zombie mode and the only way i found to fix this was to re-plug the USB cable. When i went to do this around the 7th time. The USB port snapped off the board [picture].
So i started googling and people where saying take it to a computer/phone repair shop. I took it to a small indian shop and they said it was too small to repair. I took it to a major PC repair place in my town and they said the actual connectors themselves had snapped off so I have no idea what i can do next.
Any suggestions would be great. i would solder it myself but it is WAY too small.
I have read you can get a pic debugging kit or something but I dont think you can mine with that, i only think you can debug or firmware update with that.
Any help would be great! if you help me find a solution i will tip you BTC!
So i started googling and people where saying take it to a computer/phone repair shop. I took it to a small indian shop and they said it was too small to repair. I took it to a major PC repair place in my town and they said the actual connectors themselves had snapped off so I have no idea what i can do next.
Any suggestions would be great. i would solder it myself but it is WAY too small.
I have read you can get a pic debugging kit or something but I dont think you can mine with that, i only think you can debug or firmware update with that.
Any help would be great! if you help me find a solution i will tip you BTC!
Look up information on repairing surface mount PCB traces. At one time, someone had posted a repair video on hackaday. I did manage to find this:
http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/4-7-1.shtml
All is not lost, what is broken can often be fixed with time, knowledge, and money.
Instead of trying to remove the solder mask and risk damaging the traces even further, an easier fix is to follow the traces to a component and solder the wires to that instead.
Thats actually a good idea. The +5 and ground look to make their way to one side of two diodes (which would be easy to solder too) and the two data lines go to what looks like a ferrite bead or a chock coil or something.
I have 5 Bitburner Fury's with problems that happened over time since I got them in October. One board hashes only at 13Gh/s since I received it, on this one, I noticed one of the chips on the board is not correctly soldered on (one side is raised), yet still hashes 10-13Gh/s depending on voltage.
3 have just simply stopped working completely recently, no lights, just dead. It might be a blown fuse but there is little info on these boards as to how to replace that. And finally three of them, two that hash, one thats dead, have broken USB connectors.
I am based out of NYC. I just messaged lightfoot, but if there is someone closer, or with a quick turnaround time could someone refer me to someone who can?
Thanks for the info so far.
3 have just simply stopped working completely recently, no lights, just dead. It might be a blown fuse but there is little info on these boards as to how to replace that. And finally three of them, two that hash, one thats dead, have broken USB connectors.
I am based out of NYC. I just messaged lightfoot, but if there is someone closer, or with a quick turnaround time could someone refer me to someone who can?
Thanks for the info so far.
would you be willing to sell any of the dead ones?
Instead of trying to remove the solder mask and risk damaging the traces even further, an easier fix is to follow the traces to a component and solder the wires to that instead.
I have 5 Bitburner Fury's with problems that happened over time since I got them in October. One board hashes only at 13Gh/s since I received it, on this one, I noticed one of the chips on the board is not correctly soldered on (one side is raised), yet still hashes 10-13Gh/s depending on voltage.
3 have just simply stopped working completely recently, no lights, just dead. It might be a blown fuse but there is little info on these boards as to how to replace that. And finally three of them, two that hash, one thats dead, have broken USB connectors.
I am based out of NYC. I just messaged lightfoot, but if there is someone closer, or with a quick turnaround time could someone refer me to someone who can?
Thanks for the info so far.
3 have just simply stopped working completely recently, no lights, just dead. It might be a blown fuse but there is little info on these boards as to how to replace that. And finally three of them, two that hash, one thats dead, have broken USB connectors.
I am based out of NYC. I just messaged lightfoot, but if there is someone closer, or with a quick turnaround time could someone refer me to someone who can?
Thanks for the info so far.
as some one else mentioned the pads were ripped off but the traces are still there. What I would do is scrape the solder mask off of the traces and solder a USB extension cable to whats left. Secure the cable to the board so the connections wont break off (maybe use hot glue to cover/protect them) which will leave you with a 2-3 inch female cable hanging off of the board.
Where are you located? If your local to me I'll fix it for free.
Where are you located? If your local to me I'll fix it for free.
The solder mask that is protecting the traces on the PCB can be removed locally. You can connect this to a new USB connector. It is kinda tricky but a skilled technician should be able to do it.
Thanks so much for the help everyone but like some of you suggested the actual contacts have came off so nothing can be done. Any other suggestions?
Look for a local place which does repairs of gaming consoles. Do a search on craigslist. They have all the parts and they have reflow workstations.
Can you please take a better picture?
A XBox / Playstation mod shop might also be also to help you out if you're not comfortable with the soldering.
Snip the end off a USB cable and solder it to the motherboard. Simples.
If it's powered externally, not via the usb, you only need solder the two middle data wires. You don't really need Ground and +5V.
Finally cover it in hot glue so it's not easily pulled off.
If it's powered externally, not via the usb, you only need solder the two middle data wires. You don't really need Ground and +5V.
Finally cover it in hot glue so it's not easily pulled off.
Having a better look at the picture, it looks like the solder pads are also ripped of. Will be much more difficult to fix this baby.. 
Or you could get one of them USB-to-motherboard cables, snip off the plastic bits, match up the wires, and solder.
http://www.crystalfontz.com/oldimgs/products/cables/WRUSBY11_MoBo_End_492.jpg
http://www.crystalfontz.com/oldimgs/products/cables/WRUSBY11_MoBo_End_492.jpg
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