Topic: I want to mine on my Oven' NEMA 14-50r - page 3. (Read 6725 times)

yeah but surges are less important then you think running this gear.

you are running s-7's correct?

I was wondering if i just didnt know how to go about it. I paid 55$ for it tho so. Hmm. I'll guess i'll try to search harder. Maybe someone else knows a better way to get the data...

Edit; Actually dug through HP pdf list and found the manual i think;
http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c04123438.pdf

It says it has overload protection per load group. Is that what we want, and its per 15A outlet? Kinda sound like it just prevent each outlet of running more than 15A?

runs over 300 new.  Amazing but every search I have done does not turn a manual up.

I do not know if it is fused>  Would be nice if it was.

I got the plug, still waiting on the PDU/Strip bars.

@phil
Did you end up finding anything interesting on the 40A PDU?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/401071409648

Yeah, the resident secretary came in all nosey and saying i could cause damage if i left the temps in the apartment drop too much. It was 6C inside when it was like -35C outside so, she commented just to commented. The supervisor came and said no problem even though he should of seen a couple of things that arent exactly code.

Like big gauge exterior industrial cord extensions lol.

But yeah the box fan is very obvious.

From the exterior of your building can people see your box fan? Because if its like -5C and people see all your windows open with a giant box fan running at full speed, won't they wonder if Mr. Freeze is living in that apartment?

Lol, i've had a box fan pulling air out of the shelf/sound box (with the biggest miners inside) out strait to outdoor all winter. I've gotten +5C today, was nice, temps all at 60C or less. Its honestly not too bad when you dump the heat directly outside. But if i do it with GPUs, it goings to be harder to dump directly outside.

I'm actually thinking about looking into not too noisy extractor options to move more air. But it has to be fairly quiet since its going to be in an apartment.

50-60A on 240v might be quite a bit to keep relatively cool and relatively quiet when its 30C+ outdoor.

I would love to go to your apartment when you got around 100Amps of current running in this weather. I don't know what the weather is in Eastern Canada at the moment but here we have been getting +5C weather almost daily. I wonder how you are going to deal with all this heat. It really isn't a good idea using an air conditioner in the winter because your neightbours might get suspicious thinking you are growing pot and call the cops on you.

I never saw a specific request.  But then I also stop reading as soon as emotion is expressed.

Assuming a digital meter is available - since software that reads a meter inside a motherboard is insufficient.

Restore every connection as when the computer worked. AC power cord connected to a receptacle.  Computer not on.  Set a digital meter to 20 VDC. Attach its black probe to the chassis (bare metal; not paint).

Locate a purple wire (pin 9 ) from PSU to where it attaches to the motherboard. Use a red probe to touch that wire inside a nylon connector that attaches to motherboard. If necessary, make that connection using a needle or paper clip. It should read somewhere around 5 volts.  Record that number to three digits.

Next, do same with a green wire (pin 16 ). Then press computer's Power On button. Monitor how meter changes and what it eventually settles to. First number should be something well above 2.6. Second number should be something near to zero, Actual numbers and time to change (behavior) are relevant.

Repeat same to a gray wire (pin 8 ). Note a higher starting voltage, a lower final voltage, and its behavior. Report those three digit numbers and behavior.

Setup computer to execute as much software as possible. IOW it should be outputting sound loudly, while searching the disk, while playing complex graphics (ie a move or game), while powering a USB device, while accessing the internet, etc.  Having it access many peripherals simultaneously is important.  If it cannot power up, then monitor any one red (pin 4,21-23 ), orange (pin 1,2,12 or 13 ), and yellow (pin 10 or 11 ) wire for what each does as and after its power button is pressed.

Report all three digit numbers from those six wires. Next reply will identify or exonerate suspects.

BTW, if wires are not colored, then a PSU may not be ATX Standard. See  www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html    for color and pinouts.

I already asked.

"Hence, are you going to provide said instructions, or?"

Snarky is the emotion that exists only in your mind.   "An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions."  If you want help, obtain and request three things.  If you don't want help, then stop posting.  It could not be simpler.

Emotional? You were just making snarky comments instead of providing the instructions in the first place.

Since you do not seem to be familiar with the term, here;


So, no, not my invention.

Hence, are you going to provide said instructions, or?

Why are you being emotional to a post that is 100% technical.  Snarky is an emotion you have invented.  One sentence says exactly how to obtain assistance.  You must do three things.  "An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions."  How much simpler can that be?

Well if you're not going to actually help, you dont have to continue with your snarky remarks. Either help with instructions or not.

Cheers.

Record nothing.  If a defect exists, it exists constantly.  But the symptom of that defect occurs intermittently.

A meter is so simple (requires no training) that junior high science students use it.  An answer means minutes of labor, a meter, and some requested instructions.  Measuring 12 volts says little that is useful.  Instructions obtain in minutes numbers that results in an answer without any more speculation.

You mean what? A multi meter? They dont record and i wouldnt want to spend days staring at it to see what it does. When i check it quick, the DC voltage is good, a solid 12.08v or so.

Symptoms no longer exist. But the defect does.  Normal is for a defective part to still boot and run a computer.

A meter is so ubiquitous as to be sold even in stores that also sell hammers.  Often for less than the cost of a good hammer.  Even available in Walmart for $15 or in Harbor Freight for $5.

So, we'll never really know. Thanks for taking to time to reply regardless. But you're right, its at DC level. I dont have to tools to monitor it. The problem doesnt even happen anymore, however.

Edit: Actually it does rarely if i plug 2 S1 on my PC's PSU. Loud would be 670W on my 750 evga g2.

The word 'surge' has many and completely different meanings.  For example, a surge on a USB port is due to insufficient current.  A surge on AC mains is a massive current spike.  A surge reported by a computer's motherboard is a low DC voltage problem.

A plug in protector is for an AC anomaly.  Your message is about a DC anomaly. To  say more about why requires number from a meter using some requested instructions.  That DC anomaly can result in intermittent computer instability.

Thanks for the lesson. I dont have access to my panel's main breaker so i can't imagine installing one at that level. So i was wondering what i could do to keep all that equipment safer.

Maybe my belief comes from misunderstanding, however i had problems where my computer would lock up 5 or 6 times a day, on reboot, the bios would give me a warning that a surge was detected and the PSU was shut down for safety.

Then i changed surge suppressor/power strip and it flatly stopped. I got a couple of such occurrence where stability issues were resolved by adding or changing the surge suppressor.