Make your own Switched PDU. | Bitcointalksearch.org

fusion0389

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Quote from: ChineseSavior on August 26, 2016, 08:34:23 PM

can you link the part that will fit into that box? All amazon pref. thanks

n to be clear the 110v outlets like that are good for 220v right? thanks

I ran these before expanding the farm and upgrading to PDU friendly outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3BVNC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to go the PDU route, this outlet is common in the PDU world, its what i use and runs really cool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

philipma1957

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two of these

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5822-I-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U39UY4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?

one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Seymour-TPJ82WCC10-Double-Opening/dp/B0044UN4EG/ref=sr_1_40?

one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Outdoor-5337-5-Gang-Weatherproof/dp/B00002N5FD/ref=sr_1_7?

if you supply 220 volt to this box with 10 awg wire you can run 4 s9's

Just keep wires leading to the box short.

MarkAz

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Quote from: ChineseSavior on August 26, 2016, 08:34:23 PM

can you link the part that will fit into that box? All amazon pref. thanks

n to be clear the 110v outlets like that are good for 220v right? thanks

You really should use the correct outlet for the voltage/current you want to use - those are NEMA 5-20R, so they're 110v rate to 20A, if you want the correct one for that voltage I believe it would be the NEMA 6-20R, it looks almost the same, but the right plug is horizontal instead of vertical:

http://amzn.to/2brkETr

ChineseSavior

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can you link the part that will fit into that box? All amazon pref. thanks

n to be clear the 110v outlets like that are good for 220v right? thanks

philipma1957

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Quote from: ChineseSavior on August 26, 2016, 01:29:06 AM

Quote from: philipma1957 on August 25, 2016, 08:20:32 AM

Quote from: dance191 on August 24, 2016, 11:51:58 PM

Just get a main breaker with a shunt. Apply some juice to the shunt (using any of the good multiple ways already mentioned), main breaker turns off, everything is off.

Turning the thing back on is never an "emergency", plus if you had to kill everything remotely you need to do a physical inspection before turning everything back on.

Yeah but turning on and off is a goal if you are avoiding the heat in a warm part of the world.

Also if you have cheap power from 8pm to 9am on and off is nice.

What exactly does the last item do on your list? Is that so you can run the ten guage in and split it 4 ways?

This setup is pretty much eactly what I was looking for. in theory that smart outlet could trip multiple relays correct? If you wanted to do that which box would be needed to split the 120 line "x" amount of times.

For example if 1 s9 goes down in 8 circutes (4 to each box) I can trip two circuts without having to purchase as many wifioutlets (they are price).

yes it is a 2 x 2 outlet box it would let you put in something like this

ChineseSavior

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Quote from: philipma1957 on August 25, 2016, 08:20:32 AM

Quote from: dance191 on August 24, 2016, 11:51:58 PM

Just get a main breaker with a shunt. Apply some juice to the shunt (using any of the good multiple ways already mentioned), main breaker turns off, everything is off.

Turning the thing back on is never an "emergency", plus if you had to kill everything remotely you need to do a physical inspection before turning everything back on.

Yeah but turning on and off is a goal if you are avoiding the heat in a warm part of the world.

Also if you have cheap power from 8pm to 9am on and off is nice.

What exactly does the last item do on your list? Is that so you can run the ten guage in and split it 4 ways?

This setup is pretty much eactly what I was looking for. in theory that smart outlet could trip multiple relays correct? If you wanted to do that which box would be needed to split the 120 line "x" amount of times.

For example if 1 s9 goes down in 8 circutes (4 to each box) I can trip two circuts without having to purchase as many wifioutlets (they are price).

dance191

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Quote from: philipma1957 on August 25, 2016, 08:20:32 AM

Quote from: dance191 on August 24, 2016, 11:51:58 PM

Just get a main breaker with a shunt. Apply some juice to the shunt (using any of the good multiple ways already mentioned), main breaker turns off, everything is off.

Turning the thing back on is never an "emergency", plus if you had to kill everything remotely you need to do a physical inspection before turning everything back on.

Yeah but turning on and off is a goal if you are avoiding the heat in a warm part of the world.

Also if you have cheap power from 8pm to 9am on and off is nice.

Got ya, people were asking about a way to get an emergency kill using servos to throw the breaker, I was trying to give them an instant and safer solution.

Cooling is a whole other ball of wax, but is much simpler. My rule is if you have enough cooling where just a few really hot days of summer get overly hot, just throttle the machines down on those days. If it is more than say a week or so you have to throttle down, then it is more cost effective to add more cooling. However, I run a lot of machines, so everyone needs to adjust that equation to their own unique situation. If you need to adjust machine usage to time of day usage write a script to kill mining during certain hours, get smart PDUs you can control remotely, get PSUs that need power_on sent externally, etc. Lots of solutions already posted to that problem.

philipma1957

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Quote from: dance191 on August 24, 2016, 11:51:58 PM

Just get a main breaker with a shunt. Apply some juice to the shunt (using any of the good multiple ways already mentioned), main breaker turns off, everything is off.

Turning the thing back on is never an "emergency", plus if you had to kill everything remotely you need to do a physical inspection before turning everything back on.

Yeah but turning on and off is a goal if you are avoiding the heat in a warm part of the world.

Also if you have cheap power from 8pm to 9am on and off is nice.

dance191

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Activity: 261

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Just get a main breaker with a shunt. Apply some juice to the shunt (using any of the good multiple ways already mentioned), main breaker turns off, everything is off.

Turning the thing back on is never an "emergency", plus if you had to kill everything remotely you need to do a physical inspection before turning everything back on.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

this is fully remote but will do one s7 at 120 volts

http://us.dlink.com/products/connected-home/wi-fi-smart-plug/

http://content.us.dlink.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/DSP-W215_REVA_DATASHEET_2.00_EN_US.pdf

you need to power a relay with this and let the relay turn the pdu on and off.

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Solid-State-Relays-Surface-Mount/Eaton/D93250ACZ1/product.aspx?zpid=773488

https://www.platt.com/CutSheets/Eaton/Relays-D93-Series-CatalogPage.pdf

this would be a 50 dollar smart outlet to a 67 dollar 240 volt 50 amp relay then to a pdu.

while costly with a psu you could avoid the pdu with this

https://www.amazon.com/2IH4-2-Device-Outlet-8-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B0025QFN1S/ref=sr_1_13?

with 4 out lets of your choice.

so :

1)smart plug with internet access >>>>>> in a 120 volt separate power outlet
2) 240 volt 50 amp relay >>>>>>> this could be 30 amp
3) four outlet box with plugs of your choice

and some ten gauge wire.

this could do 4 s9's

NotFuzzyWarm

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Quote from: sidehack on August 24, 2016, 09:38:03 PM

As a comp sci, oh man I hate ladder logic. Ladder logic sucks balls for complex tasks. But yeah for reacting to sensors it actually kinda makes sense.

For controls -- really can't be beat. Programming is just choosing boxes as in/out and stringing them along.
Box A + box B, etc drive result (coil) Y.
Repeat with as many lines as needed.
Math functions or PID loops now just boxes with fill-in the blanks for variables.
All in fixed scan time, usually under 100us these days.

sidehack

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As a comp sci, oh man I hate ladder logic. Ladder logic sucks balls for complex tasks. But yeah for reacting to sensors it actually kinda makes sense.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Ya know... All of this just screams to me get a small PLC from Automation direct.com and lose all the falderall. Something such as http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Programmable_Controllers

It's um, part of the voodoo I do so well...

Cheap (ish). Utterly reliable. hugely expandable with standardized modules. Can integrate other sensors such as fire/smoke/temps, etc. Can be a web-server if remote is desired. Ja is programmed in ladder logics but so what? After all for the most part is is just a mass of switches and coils in software. very linear and obvious programming as in X1 in controls Cwhatever Wink

Thinking cap on. Always dangerous...
If I do it for other than myself -- will provide switched 24vdc to contactor coils for power loads.
DISCLAIMER of liability: What and how YOU wire said contactors to is beyond my control (not liable for idiots and chicken-wire/duct tape types). Consult a licensed electrician.

Also will provide low power sink or source IO in banks of either 16 or 32 channels per module.

Touch screen panel for it? Maybe.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Hmm. how much leakage current can your DC_ON input take before it turns on?

Ust 2 wires per PSU and opto output assuming simple NPN:
the AUX 3 or 5v (also have seen 12v) from PSU to opto collector
Emitter from opto to you breakout.
Instant opto ON = Vsource ON fed to the breakout but depending on the load a breakout presents, possibly not always opto OFF = exactly Vsource OFF.

sidehack

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Surely some of that would work, yeah. I think chigiuretor (or however he spells it, been doing business with him for like two years you'd think I'd remember by now) has been setting 'em up for remote turnon/off for a while. I wonder what he does.

But anyways none of those DC-side solutions would work if there were an issue with the mains feed, in which case you'd want control of an AC disconnect and that gets a bit more complex.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Quote from: sidehack on August 24, 2016, 08:40:52 PM

Or that, yeah. It's a completely different solution to a breakout board with an external turnon input pin. My boards take an active-high signal so that wouldn't work.

Actually, I thinking of/referring to using a badge on the um, call it it 'Hobbyist" CPU board with the optos on it to drive yers or other breakouts. Just use 2 jumpers feeding the LED side to select active hi or low per bank of 4 in the opto chip. edit: or have a software switch for active high low...

Dunna have to solder to the PSU pins like you saw on the HP's you got with the CARE package from me. Wink

edit 2: Ah. Brain fart. You mean your break out is a sink and want a source to drive it. Back to jumpers to select source/sink at the optos, this time perhaps feeding the typical +5vdc always-on aux voltage the psu provides to each one to maintain isolation? Still just makes at worst a 3-wire connection between the breakout and opto board.

MarkAz

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Quote from: ChineseSavior on August 24, 2016, 03:10:32 PM

all the tripplite switched units ive seen are costly as can be or a measly 20a whih gets me nowherfe in terms of roi

as for tripping a breaker with a servo you are only tripping the breaker for one of two reasons

1) a unit needs a hard reset. aka trip the breaker and reset all easily just like if you unplugged and replugged in the pdu

2) there is a problem you see remotely and throw the breaker as a saftey precaution

The TrippLite ones I bought was on the secondary market, and older PDU's are generally cheap cheap cheap. The ones I've got are 30a, which pairs fine with the outlets I'm using. The problem I've got with the TrippLites is the web interface routinely stops working, and they only put relays on half of the 240 circuit - so if your PDU is 110/120v tolerant, it will still keep running on half a leg - super annoying and really cheesy on their part.

Personally I love (and use) the idea of being able to remotely cycle outlets - but I draw the line at remotely resetting breakers, that just seems like a bad idea. But if you're using server grade PSU's, you can easily power cycle those (see below).

Quote from: unsoindovo on August 24, 2016, 02:43:17 PM

sorry but what do you mean about "#2: CT on each outlet."

CT = Current Transducer - so you know how many amps each outlet is pulling...

Quote from: yslyung on August 24, 2016, 04:45:38 PM

SSD + rpi done deal

You wouldn't need an SSD, just use the MicroSD the RPI uses...

If you're looking for just a cheap/ready made solution, you could use an ethernet relay box, like these:

http://amzn.to/2bCPHku

I used them before, and almost all of the breakout boards have a pin header as well as a power switch, so you just hook up the relay to the power pin header and voila, you have 8 switched breakouts.

sidehack

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Or that, yeah. It's a completely different solution to a breakout board with an external turnon input pin. My boards take an active-high signal so that wouldn't work.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Ja. Just have the GPIO drive some quad opto-isolators (preferably 16-pin DIP and socket so they can be replaced) and wire their outputs to the DC_ON terminals. That way the only common between the PSU's is their chassis ground so no cross-talk concerns.

sidehack

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Especially if you use a good breakout board with an external turnon input pin.

Topic: Make your own Switched PDU. (Read 2268 times)