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Topic: Medium Size Farm Buildout (Pics Added) - page 2. (Read 1504 times)

jr. member
Activity: 234
Merit: 2
February 12, 2018, 12:29:05 AM
#29
Your feeder #1 AWG wires are not the same as your #6 Ground wire.  There should never be any voltage on your ground wire and never any current flow on it either UNLESS there is an electrical fault in the shed thin there will be current flow until the breaker that feeds the fault trips which is almost instantaneous.

Yes that is true.

I do have the ground rod in place with the right gauge wire going from rod to grounding bar in subpanel. All work was done by a master electrician. I just asked a million questions and read up on what he would be doing to learn also. But that's how I am, if I want something done that I cannot do, I wanna learn while it's getting done.

Your master electrician should know that the NEC states the the ground rod connects to the ground bar in THE FIRST DISCONNECT DEVICE which is typically your main panel in your house.  If your main panel is the first disconnect device then it should have the gorund and neutral jumpered together.  Your shed should have a #6 wire running to the ground bus bar in your main panel (house) and there shouldnt be any ground rod at the shed let alone connected to the directly to the shed main panel. Shed should also NOT have ground and neutral bus bar jumpered.
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
February 05, 2018, 09:49:49 AM
#28
****I did create a new username because the last one was not the best and I could not change it. This is not my first post.****


As tax return season is coming quickly (for most people with typical jobs) my wife and I have decide to pull the trigger and run electricity to the shed in the backyard and start scaling our mining operation up.

We currently have a free 50amp breaker from a hot tub that was removed before purchasing the home. The house is set up for 200amps total base on the main switch I see on the Electrical Panel in the garage.

We are in the process of getting bids to run a sub panel to the shed for the electric. But before we have electricians come out and ask us questions that may be over our heads (like how many 220v and 110v would we need etc.) I figured I would ask for a rough idea on here. You advise will be just that.... advise for me to continue to brain storm on and have the final plan up hopefully by Feb. 1.

I would like to have 3 220v outlets that I would have 3 PDU plugged into for the miners so that if a given.

How many 110v outlets would be needed for fan (3-4 box fans for movement and 3 450 cfm vortex fans for heat exhaust--cool air will be from passive cooling because of the negative pressure.


Questions I wanna know before I ask someone in person:
1. If my panel is only 200amp, can we reduce any amps for the bedrooms to give more Amps for the shed?
2. Can we add a brand new 200amp box just dedicated for the shed but would be billed on the same electric bill monthly? (might be a eclectic company question)
3. Can I put the electrical wiring and the Ethernet wiring in the same trench or run them on the fence line to the shed to save from not digging? (Shed is approx. 170ft away from panel)

any possible ideas, or other things to think about please let me know. I don't want to spend $1000-$2000 just installing electric when there might be better ways



#1) It's 240V service, not 220V service. (That 20V difference is 600W on a 30A circuit).
#2) You need a 10/3 (10 awg 3 conductor) wire for each 30A circuit. This will cost you like $1/foot
#3) You'll need a conduit large enough to house 3 conductors. Another $1/foot.
#4) You'll need 3x 2 pole 30A breakers ($20ea)
#5) You'll need 3x L6-30R at the end of your conduit, each connected to a single conductor set. ($20ea for the housing and the outlet)
#6) From there you'll just need to find a PDU with a L6-30P that's capable of connecting to the L6-30R. There are a lot of these around with a variety of features from monitoring to switching. (Being able to remotely reboot your miners is a nice thing, but it'll cost you)

I would estimate materials cost for your build at: $800... From there it just depends on what you can get an electrician to do it for. Maybe you can run / bury the conduit with the cables in it (that'd be the costliest part of this, the rest of it could be done in an hour or 2). With these parts you'll end up with 90A of service with 72A usable (17.2kW) over 3x 30A (24A usable) lines.

From an installation perspective... You'll need to install the 2 pole breaker, insert 1 red conductor to one pole, insert 1 black conductor to the second pole, and green or uninsulated conductor to the grounding bar (WHICH IS NOT THE SAME AS A NEUTRAL -- DON'T KILL YOURSELF THINKING THE GROUND AND NEUTRAL ARE THE SAME). Run the conductor through the buried conduit to your shed. connect the conduit to 3 junction boxes each housing it's own L6-30R. Connect black and red to their respective hots, and green or uninsulated conductor to the ground on the receptacle. Install your PDUs. Start mining, then switch your concern over to cooling with summer approaching Smiley

Here's my PDU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HY9E2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ASF0S1GFIHF5V&psc=1 -- But it does only have 2x 15A breakers which means you can only use only 12A on each breaker bank. There is a monitored version (cheaper) which has 2x 20A breakers, but doesn't give you remote reboot functionality.

If your house is anything like mine, you won't have to worry about voltage drop. I'm running 245V at my outlets. Down at my barn (maybe 150ft) there is zero voltage drop.



Thank you for your post.

My shed has been wired (yes 10/3 with 2x30amp L6-30P outlets for the Tripplite PDUs that are in there right now. I will add 1 more outlet when I need it. The PDUs are not switched but just a basic version to get me up and running on my rigs down there.

I currently have 3 rigs running right now and the shed is staying around 65degree (F). Cards are running between 46C-65C depending on which card and where it is in the shed.

I have order 1 more exhaust fan rated for Approx. 500cfm.

I messed up and said I had 2 400+CFM and I really have 1x190cfm and 1x450cfm vortex fans. So 1 more additional exhaust fan will be good for the shed. I plan on cutting a smaller intake hole for the 190CFM vortex and having that on a fan controller to control how much fresh airs gets in. (my idea is to help maintain humidity this way also. not an issue not but thinking for the future) I been and seen other peoples ventures (grow rooms) that needed lots of exhaust and this is what they recommended I do. 

Finally, I am order the last 2 mother boards today (hopefully) and will put those rigs together this week and throw them in there.

Once I get all rigs and the new vortex fan hung up, a final video will be made. I will include some parts of the other videos such as the running of the electric and Ethernet cords to the shed from previous photos/videos I have taken.

I am approx. 85% completed with the shed in my opinion though. Thank you to everyone who has commented and been patient as I get the video ready. Once you see the completed video, you will be happy.

My house is super quiet now that I moved those rigs to the shed to test the temps and stuff haha.

hero member
Activity: 1118
Merit: 541
February 03, 2018, 09:48:28 AM
#27
****I did create a new username because the last one was not the best and I could not change it. This is not my first post.****


As tax return season is coming quickly (for most people with typical jobs) my wife and I have decide to pull the trigger and run electricity to the shed in the backyard and start scaling our mining operation up.

We currently have a free 50amp breaker from a hot tub that was removed before purchasing the home. The house is set up for 200amps total base on the main switch I see on the Electrical Panel in the garage.

We are in the process of getting bids to run a sub panel to the shed for the electric. But before we have electricians come out and ask us questions that may be over our heads (like how many 220v and 110v would we need etc.) I figured I would ask for a rough idea on here. You advise will be just that.... advise for me to continue to brain storm on and have the final plan up hopefully by Feb. 1.

I would like to have 3 220v outlets that I would have 3 PDU plugged into for the miners so that if a given.

How many 110v outlets would be needed for fan (3-4 box fans for movement and 3 450 cfm vortex fans for heat exhaust--cool air will be from passive cooling because of the negative pressure.


Questions I wanna know before I ask someone in person:
1. If my panel is only 200amp, can we reduce any amps for the bedrooms to give more Amps for the shed?
2. Can we add a brand new 200amp box just dedicated for the shed but would be billed on the same electric bill monthly? (might be a eclectic company question)
3. Can I put the electrical wiring and the Ethernet wiring in the same trench or run them on the fence line to the shed to save from not digging? (Shed is approx. 170ft away from panel)

any possible ideas, or other things to think about please let me know. I don't want to spend $1000-$2000 just installing electric when there might be better ways



#1) It's 240V service, not 220V service. (That 20V difference is 600W on a 30A circuit).
#2) You need a 10/3 (10 awg 3 conductor) wire for each 30A circuit. This will cost you like $1/foot
#3) You'll need a conduit large enough to house 3 conductors. Another $1/foot.
#4) You'll need 3x 2 pole 30A breakers ($20ea)
#5) You'll need 3x L6-30R at the end of your conduit, each connected to a single conductor set. ($20ea for the housing and the outlet)
#6) From there you'll just need to find a PDU with a L6-30P that's capable of connecting to the L6-30R. There are a lot of these around with a variety of features from monitoring to switching. (Being able to remotely reboot your miners is a nice thing, but it'll cost you)

I would estimate materials cost for your build at: $800... From there it just depends on what you can get an electrician to do it for. Maybe you can run / bury the conduit with the cables in it (that'd be the costliest part of this, the rest of it could be done in an hour or 2). With these parts you'll end up with 90A of service with 72A usable (17.2kW) over 3x 30A (24A usable) lines.

From an installation perspective... You'll need to install the 2 pole breaker, insert 1 red conductor to one pole, insert 1 black conductor to the second pole, and green or uninsulated conductor to the grounding bar (WHICH IS NOT THE SAME AS A NEUTRAL -- DON'T KILL YOURSELF THINKING THE GROUND AND NEUTRAL ARE THE SAME). Run the conductor through the buried conduit to your shed. connect the conduit to 3 junction boxes each housing it's own L6-30R. Connect black and red to their respective hots, and green or uninsulated conductor to the ground on the receptacle. Install your PDUs. Start mining, then switch your concern over to cooling with summer approaching Smiley

Here's my PDU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HY9E2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ASF0S1GFIHF5V&psc=1 -- But it does only have 2x 15A breakers which means you can only use only 12A on each breaker bank. There is a monitored version (cheaper) which has 2x 20A breakers, but doesn't give you remote reboot functionality.

If your house is anything like mine, you won't have to worry about voltage drop. I'm running 245V at my outlets. Down at my barn (maybe 150ft) there is zero voltage drop.

jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
February 03, 2018, 09:26:56 AM
#26
Your feeder #1 AWG wires are not the same as your #6 Ground wire.  There should never be any voltage on your ground wire and never any current flow on it either UNLESS there is an electrical fault in the shed thin there will be current flow until the breaker that feeds the fault trips which is almost instantaneous.

Yes that is true.

I do have the ground rod in place with the right gauge wire going from rod to grounding bar in subpanel. All work was done by a master electrician. I just asked a million questions and read up on what he would be doing to learn also. But that's how I am, if I want something done that I cannot do, I wanna learn while it's getting done.
jr. member
Activity: 234
Merit: 2
February 02, 2018, 07:34:55 PM
#25
Your feeder #1 AWG wires are not the same as your #6 Ground wire.  There should never be any voltage on your ground wire and never any current flow on it either UNLESS there is an electrical fault in the shed thin there will be current flow until the breaker that feeds the fault trips which is almost instantaneous.
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
February 02, 2018, 10:48:13 AM
#24
I have #1 gauge wire (for voltage drop because of distance) from the main panel to my subpanel in the shed. I do have it set up to where I can have a dedicated 200amp service if I should choose in the future but I would probably just get a ware house at that point (dreams).


I will be having a portable AC unit in the shed possibly during the summer months but I am honestly not to worried about it as of right now.

I know that exhausting more hot air than circulating it will help 90% of all heat issues. the 10% will be the AC and other circulation of fresh air from outside (away from the exhausted air).

I will continually be adding more and more exhaust fans or just upgrade to a higher CFM fan if needed to upgrade to handle ventilation needs as things get bigger and hotter inside and outside.

and to answer someone's question if its under .05 per Kw... yes. I have flat cost regardless of usage (so that means unlimited). I live in a semi wealthy neighborhood (trust me I'm not rich by any means) so I turned off the pool heater and everything I could to just switch where my electricity would be used by the miners instead.
jr. member
Activity: 234
Merit: 2
February 01, 2018, 11:15:36 PM
#23
Pictures I know many have asked. I think this is awesome for the build-out, many of us would like to see how things are coming along with all of this. Where is your location? are you in the U.S.  north, south, east, or west?

pics will come at one time when I have time to sit and upload then from my phone to here. I am trying to make sure I get this up and running as fast as possible but at the same time not miss out on the important parts of living with the family. But like I said, I have photos throughout the process taken and will be taking a few more as I wrap things up.

I am located in southern part of USA and electric is super cheap for me. like China cheap at the moment haha.

Is it cheaper than .05 kw/h? Thats what it is here in West Central IN.  

You should have a #6 solid copper running from your ground rod to your ground bus bar in your shed panel.  Your shed panel should NOT have the neutral and ground bus bar jumpered (IE: Not Bonded).  Your shed ground bus bar should have a #6 solid copper wire going all the way to the ground bus bar in your home (assuming your home panel is the first disconnect device after the Meter.  (Sometimes a meter base will have a disconnect and in that case the neutral and ground bus bars should be jumpered together there in the meter base panel and NOT anywhere else.

I might end up building or buying a shed myself just for mining rigs (easier to cool than a whole 3 car garage).  If I go big enough ill just have the power company run the shed its own 200a feed and install a meter there.  Just depends on what crypto does over the next 5 months or so.

I think you will find that the southern humidity and heat during the summer that you will NOT be able to keep your rigs cool enough.  Circulating 90 degree plus air does not cool much of anything. A fan does NOT make cool air.  It only circulates the air surrounding it and is slave to whatever its temp is.  You will probably need to install an a/c unit.  Either big window unit or a smaller system (Mini split will do well here).
newbie
Activity: 84
Merit: 0
February 01, 2018, 09:43:27 PM
#22
Same here I too am living in the southeast of the United States currently. I have some photos of the setup that I built, I am currently running a 440 CFM fan in an 220 CuFt room in my house that houses all my mining equipment. That being said it is still not enough to completely keep the miners under 80 degrees. I hope that in the summer it will help more than in the previous summer running them with just a box fan blowing on them. That being said I am also running ASICs so that could be the main culprit of all my heat issues.

jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
February 01, 2018, 02:03:08 PM
#21
Pictures I know many have asked. I think this is awesome for the build-out, many of us would like to see how things are coming along with all of this. Where is your location? are you in the U.S.  north, south, east, or west?

pics will come at one time when I have time to sit and upload then from my phone to here. I am trying to make sure I get this up and running as fast as possible but at the same time not miss out on the important parts of living with the family. But like I said, I have photos throughout the process taken and will be taking a few more as I wrap things up.

I am located in southern part of USA and electric is super cheap for me. like China cheap at the moment haha.
newbie
Activity: 84
Merit: 0
February 01, 2018, 11:11:13 AM
#20
Pictures I know many have asked. I think this is awesome for the build-out, many of us would like to see how things are coming along with all of this. Where is your location? are you in the U.S.  north, south, east, or west?
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
February 01, 2018, 10:57:15 AM
#19
Update on shed build out

I have gotten electric installed and 2x240v and 10x120v outlets set throughout the shed. I can add more 240v outlets as I need as well because I just stapled the wires to the studs and I am not putting up dry wall.

I also just about have insulation done throughout the shed. I just have the  ceiling to complete. I have 2x400 cfm vortex fans to exhaust heat from the shed through the ceiling hole and 1 window. I will have a another place for cooler air to be brought in from the shaded portion of the shed area. It will be a passive air flow system and just exhausting as much heat as possible. I will have the vortex fans set up but Saturday and I will have 3 of the 7 rigs in there by Sunday morning as a test run for temps.

This has been exhausting but rewarding experience. Next time, I definitely wont be going balls to the walls as quickly to not tire myself out. All rigs will be up and running by Feb 15th now and should be close to 1 GH/s now that I have a few extra cards that keep coming in. 
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
January 23, 2018, 11:23:24 PM
#18
(NateDoggETH)

No problem 12/2 is fine as long as your carrying no more that 20 Amp load on it well technically 10% less than full load on the breaker. The grounding rod is important because well, a floating ground or neutral can mess-up sensitive electronics like miners :-) The copper wire running from the grounding rod must be connected to a grounding busbar inside of the sub-panel. That being said this is where the ground on your outlets connect to.

Hope this helps, oh an 'don't' for the love of god touch any of the 10/3 wires or an open/exposed panel. Yes an outlet can electrocute you, however a 10/3 is game over! with no instance replays.

I'm going to pregame the wire then have a electrian do the stuff that I am afraid of dying from. With my luck, I'll still be alive, but have an enormous hospital bill and my ROI is gone. Lol.

So I'll have it ready, they to the wire connections, I stay alive. That's the plan as of tonight. Start to hang wire tomorrow night
newbie
Activity: 84
Merit: 0
January 23, 2018, 10:42:34 PM
#17
(NateDoggETH)

No problem 12/2 is fine as long as your carrying no more that 20 Amp load on it well technically 10% less than full load on the breaker. The grounding rod is important because well, a floating ground or neutral can mess-up sensitive electronics like miners :-) The copper wire running from the grounding rod must be connected to a grounding busbar inside of the sub-panel. That being said this is where the ground on your outlets connect to.

Hope this helps, oh an 'don't' for the love of god touch any of the 10/3 wires or an open/exposed panel. Yes an outlet can electrocute you, however a 10/3 is game over! with no instance replays.
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
January 23, 2018, 10:02:50 AM
#16
Progress Report on Shed build out.

sorry for the late update, as you will read, I've been under a weight of pressure

ALWAYS HAVE A CONTRACT IN HAVE BEFORE WORK BEGINS! IT HAS SAVED ME BIG TIME.

Master Electrician got upset at how slow the build was taking (his employees not mine) and demanding more money even though they where over budget per contract and time. All that is left is the ground rod to be installed and then we can test things out.

I have fired them obviously because they refused to do the ground rod unless I give them more money. then called back 2 hours later and apologized and said they want to at least finish the ground rod so things would be put together properly. (Prob cause they know ill go out and try to figure it out now myself). This is a little concerning I think don't y'all think?

I'm fine with hiring a new electrician to do it. I think they are worried about being sued for leaving it unsafe if I flip a switch or something and get electrocuted or something

so once ground rod is installed and I guess there is a copper wire that goes from that rod to the sub panel (someone confirm this for me if you can) I can test for connections. I want to know this information that way some electrician doesn't try to swindle me out of $$ also. I know ill have to pay for his time to confirm what I'm asking.

I have 10/3 wire for the 3-30 amp 240v breakers and then 12/2 for the 20 amp outlets.

I am going to wire the shed up to the point of the breaker box and outlet and then have a NEW master electrician do that work.


I do have all the parts ready and most of the GPUs modded but they need some tweaking in OverdrivenTool. I'm going to order new motherboards because I went cheap and I should have gotten Asus like my other rigs and also instead of 1000w server power supplies, I should have gotten 1200w server power supplies because the 1000w ones I ordered are running the GPUs one the break out board. My screw up again from all this pressure.

Let this be a teaching tool for people who build 1-2 rigs and see how easier it is and want to build 10k worth in gpus. take baby steps and don't rush the progress. I will get this done yes, but it has been a stress on me personally, and my family also as I'm handling the issues with this stuff and not spending time with them.

Im 100% in for ETH but at the same time, my family should be first too

So, once grounding rod and wires are run, I will be moving most of my equipment to the shed after the security system is installed (by me). I will post pics of the updates ones I can upload to computer. its mostly just a 175ft trench 20inch deep with conduit in it.

I know the photos that people are really wanting to see is the final progress. haha
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
January 19, 2018, 03:24:29 PM
#15
Awesome, I hope all goes well with this build out. Share some photo and facts as you go along. I think we all want to know what is the 'good' and 'bad' in this buildout.


So far I have had a few hick ups in the process.

we got the trench dug and realized that the area has a French drain and had to move the trench over about 8-12 inches. that was not that hard minus pulling out a tap root that weighted about 65 pounds after trimming it.

also, we had the trench dug, and of course we found all the pipes for the sprinkler system and wires for them also except for 1 jimmy rigged water pipe. it was exposed overnight because PVC and wire was being run the next day and the freezing temps caused it to burst.

This ended up being a crazy ordeal to deal with at 2am in 10f degrees but we got the water shut off and had the plumbers out to repair the line that night and the next day as the pipe cracked more under ground.

from what I was told last night, we would be testing electric and LAN on Saturday. Pics soon to come. this has been more of a stress getting the electric installed than previously thought it was. hoping for smooth sailing after this is all done. I will be putting in the rigs before adding the insulation though so that I can get them out of the house and actually hear for once. haha.
newbie
Activity: 84
Merit: 0
January 17, 2018, 06:29:28 PM
#14
Awesome, I hope all goes well with this build out. Share some photo and facts as you go along. I think we all want to know what is the 'good' and 'bad' in this buildout.
newbie
Activity: 17
Merit: 0
January 14, 2018, 09:45:48 AM
#13
Buy these 240V PDU's. They are brand-new, sealed, and come with a TON of HD-quality powercables (c13/c14). https://www.ebay.com/itm/382243077501

I bought four kits. 20A PDU de-rated to 16A. Each comes with L6-20P main power cables to go to the wall but I bough L6-30P cables instead to fit my plugs. I bolted them to the side rail of my muscle-rack's from Home Depot using the hardware the kits come with (90 degree brackets). I'll upload some photos soon.

Look into installing a Eaton Ultimate whole-house surge protector: http://a.co/iiVm9K5 (super cheap now! $95). Install it properly using a 50-Amp breaker to maximize the full rating of the surge protector. I have yet to install mine as I had to order a quad-tandem breaker to make room for two more slots in my panel.
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
January 14, 2018, 08:18:01 AM
#12
In the process of digging the trench by hand because of to many sprinklers or pool pipes. About 25% done on the trench and Monday electric will be installed. Moving quickly boys
jr. member
Activity: 76
Merit: 1
January 05, 2018, 02:16:44 PM
#11
I have the shed 100% cleared out except a workbench that I need a saws all to remove for more sq footage. Pics wil be coming up in the next week once I get electric and insulation run to the shed.

Still searching forbGPU between 200-280 per card if anyone can point me in a direction. Need 24-27 cards total. Must be brand new at RX570 4gb.

Thanks people
newbie
Activity: 84
Merit: 0
January 05, 2018, 12:09:45 PM
#10
things are getting moving along for the shed build out.

met with the Electrician and his Journey man again last night for 1 final walk through for a complete bid.

I got approval from the boss lady to finance 4 new rigs as long as I do it as cheap as possible to get quickest ROI.

Coins can only be cashed out to pay for Equipment and Electricity and a itemized list of components for each rig must be provided. So easy stuff so far...

I am in the process of searching for 24 graphic cards (that's the budget for right now). Prefer 4gb unless I can get the 8gb for around the same costs. I pull the same hash rate from my RX570 4GB cards as I do my RX 570 8GB cards just better wattage.

We will continue to expand, but if I can get 24 cards for average cost of 250 I can have some extra funds for the hick ups that always happen.

If anyone has any tips on helping make this as cheap as possible let me know. I'm building 4 rigs with these components:

1x2 wood frame for each moving-$5
HP1200watt server PSU-$43.99
Evga 400watt PSU-$40
DDR4 288pin 4gb RAM-$53
Asus h27- Prime AR Motherboard-$101
SSD 60GB-$35
CPU-$55
Risers 6pack-$40

GPUs--unknown as of now
Currently Following
Do you have any followup with pictures of this thus far?
I currently am in the process of setting up an ASIC farm but will be building out a graphics card farm in the future.

-CointoHash411
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