Would also be good to see a mod done to a hub that doesn't already have an external power option - though the procedure is very similar
Topic: Modifying a USB hub for extra power and "I did it!" showoff thread - page 4. (Read 6365 times)
August 15, 2015, 10:32:19 AM
One slight correction to the first post - on DC wiring, the wire with the line / dashes is usually actually the positive. There is, unfortunately, no unified marking across all devices (e.g. band on diode = cathode, band on SMD polarized cap = positive) but at least within classes it tends to be. Good thing to measure, regardless, as there's always exceptions.
Would also be good to see a mod done to a hub that doesn't already have an external power option - though the procedure is very similar
Would also be good to see a mod done to a hub that doesn't already have an external power option - though the procedure is very similar
August 15, 2015, 09:17:08 AM
I'd recommend soldering individual lanes from each plug back to the molex connection. Otherwise as you add high-current devices the voltage drop gets successively worse for each plug.
August 14, 2015, 11:41:48 AM
[WORK]
This is where the road to many mistakes start:
First thing, pop open the case:
As you can see, there is rather large tracks on the PCB already from the Barrel plug:
Which I Removed, I'm going to solder the Molex plug to this point:
Oh, I almost forgot the most nessecary tool for this type of project, The Multimeter!!
As you can see, I have another Molex plug ready to solder in
Now this is where you start stripping wires:
Solder them wires into the empty points on the PCB:
F%#@ S*%! BALLS! its 5V not 12V!!
Yellow is 12V
Red is 5V
So lets try that again!
Following the track from the rail off the barrel plug, the pin for the middle is positive, that is the spade that is on the back of the barrel plug, and soldered onto the board where the single track tracing around to each connection. Easy way to test this is plugging in the hub to a USB port, finding an earth, and testing the solder points on the track.
From here we solder the Red wire to the solder point on the board related to the 5V
Cleaning a bit of the green solder mask off the tracks, I tin the exposed tracks (yes, i did change the layout a little with the wiring, its going to be a little choppy now)
then from here, I soldered on a thicker bodge wire across from the main wire to the plug:
(as you can see, no extra exposed tinned tracks, told'ya its gonna get choppy)
And continue with the bodge bridging:
or you could go from the main solder point, and across to the power pin on the plug..
[TO BE CONTINUED]
This is where the road to many mistakes start:
First thing, pop open the case:
As you can see, there is rather large tracks on the PCB already from the Barrel plug:
Which I Removed, I'm going to solder the Molex plug to this point:
Oh, I almost forgot the most nessecary tool for this type of project, The Multimeter!!
As you can see, I have another Molex plug ready to solder in
Now this is where you start stripping wires:
Solder them wires into the empty points on the PCB:
F%#@ S*%! BALLS! its 5V not 12V!!
Yellow is 12V
Red is 5V
So lets try that again!
Following the track from the rail off the barrel plug, the pin for the middle is positive, that is the spade that is on the back of the barrel plug, and soldered onto the board where the single track tracing around to each connection. Easy way to test this is plugging in the hub to a USB port, finding an earth, and testing the solder points on the track.
From here we solder the Red wire to the solder point on the board related to the 5V
Cleaning a bit of the green solder mask off the tracks, I tin the exposed tracks (yes, i did change the layout a little with the wiring, its going to be a little choppy now)
then from here, I soldered on a thicker bodge wire across from the main wire to the plug:
(as you can see, no extra exposed tinned tracks, told'ya its gonna get choppy)
And continue with the bodge bridging:
or you could go from the main solder point, and across to the power pin on the plug..
[TO BE CONTINUED]
August 14, 2015, 11:41:01 AM
[PREREQUISITES]
What we need:
The Hub, duuur
pliers, to remove and hold components
Solder
flux
A screwdriver, to open the case (mine was clip shut, used hands to pop it open)
the wire that we are going to use, as you can see, the male Molex plug is what we need
As you can see, this hub has a barrel connection, if you don't want to go any further, use the wire off the power pack, check to see which wire is the middle barrel, that's the positive, push the wire into the Red wire on the female Molex plug. the other is negative, that goes into one of the 2 black wire connectors.
From here on, we get into soldering up heavier wiring onto the hub..
What we need:
The Hub, duuur
pliers, to remove and hold components
Solder
flux
A screwdriver, to open the case (mine was clip shut, used hands to pop it open)
the wire that we are going to use, as you can see, the male Molex plug is what we need
As you can see, this hub has a barrel connection, if you don't want to go any further, use the wire off the power pack, check to see which wire is the middle barrel, that's the positive, push the wire into the Red wire on the female Molex plug. the other is negative, that goes into one of the 2 black wire connectors.
From here on, we get into soldering up heavier wiring onto the hub..
August 14, 2015, 11:39:16 AM
[INTRO]
Well, let me start with what the searches say.
I bet there is plenty of people who have done this type of mod in some way, fashion or form..
Well, for starters, here is an old post with a list of hubs that could be used with the old Block Eruptors, and then some:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/which-usb-hub-to-use-with-block-erupters-nanofury-nf1-bpmc-red-fury-ant-u1-253749
Here is a newbie making their own modified powered USB hub:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/powering-10-port-usb-newb-style-801230
as TheRealSteve said you could just force feed power into the usb power wires:
...
That can be as simple as severing Vbus (V+ / the red wire), connecting the positive of your power supply where Vbus used to connect (or connecting it closer to the actual ports on the hub (in case the traces are pretty narrow and you're not too sure the traces will handle the current), connecting your power supply's negative where USB GND (V- / the black wire) connects, and off you go.
You can add some capacitors for stability or make the circuit a bit more intelligent (google 'USB power injector'), but it pretty much comes down to that first sentence.
I picked a USB hub that basically has that intelligent bit and whatnot already built-in so I can just plug external power in with a barrel jack, but it is a bit power limited, so I also have a small board where I've only done the 'sever the red wire' approach that's been running my engineering sample Compac for some higher speed tests, but efficiency goes down the gutter at those higher rates
I have a cheap and nasty USB 7 port thing off Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320785264621 what ever you do, don't pull 1A off them 2A bricks, they make nice fireworks...
So, I have a barrel connection in this thing, could just cut the wire off the brick and splice it into a PSU, but that's easy! On this one I got, they have the wiring the wrong way around, the negative painted wire(the one with the white stripe) is not negative! luckily I found this out with a multimeter!
So, lets move on and get the tools, items, wires and workspace needed
Well, let me start with what the searches say.
I bet there is plenty of people who have done this type of mod in some way, fashion or form..
Well, for starters, here is an old post with a list of hubs that could be used with the old Block Eruptors, and then some:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/which-usb-hub-to-use-with-block-erupters-nanofury-nf1-bpmc-red-fury-ant-u1-253749
Here is a newbie making their own modified powered USB hub:
https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/powering-10-port-usb-newb-style-801230
as TheRealSteve said you could just force feed power into the usb power wires:
...
That can be as simple as severing Vbus (V+ / the red wire), connecting the positive of your power supply where Vbus used to connect (or connecting it closer to the actual ports on the hub (in case the traces are pretty narrow and you're not too sure the traces will handle the current), connecting your power supply's negative where USB GND (V- / the black wire) connects, and off you go.
You can add some capacitors for stability or make the circuit a bit more intelligent (google 'USB power injector'), but it pretty much comes down to that first sentence.
I picked a USB hub that basically has that intelligent bit and whatnot already built-in so I can just plug external power in with a barrel jack, but it is a bit power limited, so I also have a small board where I've only done the 'sever the red wire' approach that's been running my engineering sample Compac for some higher speed tests, but efficiency goes down the gutter at those higher rates
I have a cheap and nasty USB 7 port thing off Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320785264621 what ever you do, don't pull 1A off them 2A bricks, they make nice fireworks...
So, I have a barrel connection in this thing, could just cut the wire off the brick and splice it into a PSU, but that's easy! On this one I got, they have the wiring the wrong way around, the negative painted wire(the one with the white stripe) is not negative! luckily I found this out with a multimeter!
So, lets move on and get the tools, items, wires and workspace needed
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