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Topic: Project: custom 19in rack passive cooling system - page 3. (Read 14470 times)

legendary
Activity: 3318
Merit: 4606
diamond-handed zealot
Veeery nice indeed.

Hey, have a quick look at my gaming/mining build, also rackmounted http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=4826515f8077a98d66cf9e6c9e11c7c1&t=1577248&highlight=teraractyl



full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
Now that the majority of the parts for the 1RU controller blade have arrived and I have taken a full set of measurements for their dimensions, I have done the initial (incomplete) set of drawings.

Shown: 1RU half shelf, Aquaero 5 XT, 3x poweradjust 2, illuminated latching toggle switch.
To be added: Pico-PSU, 12VDC power brick, wiring harnesses, detail on faceplate, detail on top cover


A high resolution version of this drawing can be found here.
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
Watercooled ASICs??? Wink Wink Wink

Absolutely! I don't need that many coffee cups warmed Wink

In all seriousness, ASICs are a lot more efficient than prior technologies, but still generate heat. In any high density configuration the heat will need to be moved away to prevent thermal failure, so there will still be a need for fans (or water cooling).
legendary
Activity: 1400
Merit: 1000
I owe my soul to the Bitcoin code...
Watercooled ASICs??? Wink Wink Wink
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
I gotta say this is an awesome project. WC almost an entire KWh of heat is no small feat, and to do it passively (or close to it) is even more impressive.

I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?

Thanks for the kudos.

Thus far, for the raw materials I'm into this project ~$2.5k and looking at about another $1.5k to finish it off. As far as man hours go, I can only manage a few hours every other weekend (if I am lucky) so maybe 30 hours or so since I started (including the time to design it).

Even though I am initially planning to only support a single rig, the design will support the cooling needs of emerging mining technologies. It might seem like overkill for now, but I am thinking ahead for whatever comes next.
legendary
Activity: 952
Merit: 1000
I gotta say this is an awesome project. WC almost an entire KWh of heat is no small feat, and to do it passively (or close to it) is even more impressive.

I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
Another load of parts, tools and supplies arrived just before Amazon tax day. After some deliberation, I decided on a 150W Pico PSU to power the pumps, Aquaero 5 XT and Poweradjust 2s. Also shown are the PSU bypass plug (allows the PSU to run w/o being attached to a motherboard), an illuminated toggle switch, heat gun some heat shrink tubing and the last of the mounting hardware.


After the last batch of nylon washers arrived I was able to finish off the rails for the middle radiator module. It is shown here next to the rack for scale.



I also drilled the countersink holes for the nylon shoulder washers for the first of the mounts today.


full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. SNIP

I don't think everyone is on the same page about the corrosion issue.  Here is a good primer with pictures: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

The corrosion happens within the water loop due to mixed metals and degrades the blocks, pump and rads. Using additives will assist in keeping this to a minimum but will not stop it completely.

The best approach is to design the loop without mixed metals if you can.

Yep, lots of good info on martinsliquidlab. His review of the Aquaero 5 is what convinced me to use one in this project. I just wish he was still updating the site Sad

In a typical PC water cooling case, the components are electrically connected to the PC case and therefor to each other satisfying the second requirement for galvanic corrosion to occur
Quote
2. These metals must be in electrical contact

For this project, the only components of the loop that I will not be able to electrically isolate are the (GPU) water blocks themselves (which must be tied to the case ground). This will require some planning as new blocks/components are added in the future so not to create a problem, but for now things should be covered. I'll be sure to do electrical continuity tests once all the mounts/modules are assembled to ensure there isn't an inadvertent short between a radiator segment and a mount or rail somewhere.
legendary
Activity: 1400
Merit: 1000
I owe my soul to the Bitcoin code...
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. SNIP

I don't think everyone is on the same page about the corrosion issue.  Here is a good primer with pictures: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

The corrosion happens within the water loop due to mixed metals and degrades the blocks, pump and rads. Using additives will assist in keeping this to a minimum but will not stop it completely.

The best approach is to design the loop without mixed metals if you can.
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
The screws and nylon shoulder washers for the upper and lower modules arrived early, so I was able to drill the pilot holes on the lower mount, and make a jig for drilling the module segments.

full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. Each module segment will be attached with two screws to both the upper and lower mounts. Since nylon screws likely couldn't take the torque of being moved around a lot, I chose to use stainless steel screws with nylon shoulder washers which will be countersunk into the bottom of the mounts. The radiator-facing side of the mount (right side in the diagram) will have a nylon washer between the mount and the radiator. Here is an exploded view:
legendary
Activity: 3318
Merit: 4606
diamond-handed zealot
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource. Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis  Roll Eyes

What if he use Brass blocks? Dont be a retard and saying "dissimilar metals"... There is a technical term for what you're preferring to.

I'm sure the OP is smart enough to use addictive. Dont assume...


Uuuuum, try wiki Galvanic corrosion and report back the first two words under "overview"

"preferring to", "use addictive"??

ignore button engaged
sr. member
Activity: 462
Merit: 250
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource.  Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis  Roll Eyes

What if he use Brass blocks? Dont be a retard and saying "dissimilar metals"... There is a technical term for what you're preferring to.

I'm sure the OP is smart enough to use addictive. Dont assume...
legendary
Activity: 3318
Merit: 4606
diamond-handed zealot
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource.  Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis  Roll Eyes
sr. member
Activity: 462
Merit: 250
It's a neat idea, here are some things to keep in mind:

Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.

If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.



all this

you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs

lol Hard are kiddo compared to XSystem

Hard = highschool puter modders
Xsystem = Professional in the industry with modding hobby.


Let the OP do his project, stupid to tell ppl dont get a nice SL but mod a Mustang.
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100

you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs

Lots of good info and designs in the [H]ardOCP forums.

Thanks for the tip!
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
September 2012: mounting the rails

Today I trimmed the nylon screws and attached both rails to the center module



Closeup showing nylon spacer


The hardware for mounting the remaining two module segments is on order, but won't arrive for another two weeks.
legendary
Activity: 3318
Merit: 4606
diamond-handed zealot
It's a neat idea, here are some things to keep in mind:

Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.

If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.



all this

you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
July and August 2012: Drilling and mounting the rails

Drilling the rails


The Aquaero 5 XT has finally arrived! It was back-ordered for three months from Germany. This will serve as the controller for all the pumps and sensors.


Expanding the holes on the rails


Tapping the holes on the mounts


The bottom rail attached to the mount


Top view of the bottom rail and mount


The top and bottom rails and mounts assembled. Less that 0.5mm difference between the two! Not bad for doing everything with hand tools...


Initial assembly of the middle segment and rails with the nylon screws
full member
Activity: 133
Merit: 100
June 2012: cutting the rail spacers and drilling the mounts

Checking the fit


Drilling the mounts
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