Hey, have a quick look at my gaming/mining build, also rackmounted http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=4826515f8077a98d66cf9e6c9e11c7c1&t=1577248&highlight=teraractyl
Topic: Project: custom 19in rack passive cooling system - page 3. (Read 14475 times)
Veeery nice indeed.
Hey, have a quick look at my gaming/mining build, also rackmounted http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=4826515f8077a98d66cf9e6c9e11c7c1&t=1577248&highlight=teraractyl
Hey, have a quick look at my gaming/mining build, also rackmounted http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=4826515f8077a98d66cf9e6c9e11c7c1&t=1577248&highlight=teraractyl
Now that the majority of the parts for the 1RU controller blade have arrived and I have taken a full set of measurements for their dimensions, I have done the initial (incomplete) set of drawings.
Shown: 1RU half shelf, Aquaero 5 XT, 3x poweradjust 2, illuminated latching toggle switch.
To be added: Pico-PSU, 12VDC power brick, wiring harnesses, detail on faceplate, detail on top cover
A high resolution version of this drawing can be found here.
Shown: 1RU half shelf, Aquaero 5 XT, 3x poweradjust 2, illuminated latching toggle switch.
To be added: Pico-PSU, 12VDC power brick, wiring harnesses, detail on faceplate, detail on top cover
A high resolution version of this drawing can be found here.
Watercooled ASICs??? 
Absolutely! I don't need that many coffee cups warmed
In all seriousness, ASICs are a lot more efficient than prior technologies, but still generate heat. In any high density configuration the heat will need to be moved away to prevent thermal failure, so there will still be a need for fans (or water cooling).
Watercooled ASICs???
I gotta say this is an awesome project. WC almost an entire KWh of heat is no small feat, and to do it passively (or close to it) is even more impressive.
I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?
I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?
Thanks for the kudos.
Thus far, for the raw materials I'm into this project ~$2.5k and looking at about another $1.5k to finish it off. As far as man hours go, I can only manage a few hours every other weekend (if I am lucky) so maybe 30 hours or so since I started (including the time to design it).
Even though I am initially planning to only support a single rig, the design will support the cooling needs of emerging mining technologies. It might seem like overkill for now, but I am thinking ahead for whatever comes next.
I gotta say this is an awesome project. WC almost an entire KWh of heat is no small feat, and to do it passively (or close to it) is even more impressive.
I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?
I gotta ask tho: how much have you spent in parts/man hours into this project? Is it worth it for only one rig?
Another load of parts, tools and supplies arrived just before Amazon tax day. After some deliberation, I decided on a 150W Pico PSU to power the pumps, Aquaero 5 XT and Poweradjust 2s. Also shown are the PSU bypass plug (allows the PSU to run w/o being attached to a motherboard), an illuminated toggle switch, heat gun some heat shrink tubing and the last of the mounting hardware.
After the last batch of nylon washers arrived I was able to finish off the rails for the middle radiator module. It is shown here next to the rack for scale.
I also drilled the countersink holes for the nylon shoulder washers for the first of the mounts today.
After the last batch of nylon washers arrived I was able to finish off the rails for the middle radiator module. It is shown here next to the rack for scale.
I also drilled the countersink holes for the nylon shoulder washers for the first of the mounts today.
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. SNIP
I don't think everyone is on the same page about the corrosion issue. Here is a good primer with pictures: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
The corrosion happens within the water loop due to mixed metals and degrades the blocks, pump and rads. Using additives will assist in keeping this to a minimum but will not stop it completely.
The best approach is to design the loop without mixed metals if you can.
Yep, lots of good info on martinsliquidlab. His review of the Aquaero 5 is what convinced me to use one in this project. I just wish he was still updating the site
In a typical PC water cooling case, the components are electrically connected to the PC case and therefor to each other satisfying the second requirement for galvanic corrosion to occur
Quote
2. These metals must be in electrical contact
For this project, the only components of the loop that I will not be able to electrically isolate are the (GPU) water blocks themselves (which must be tied to the case ground). This will require some planning as new blocks/components are added in the future so not to create a problem, but for now things should be covered. I'll be sure to do electrical continuity tests once all the mounts/modules are assembled to ensure there isn't an inadvertent short between a radiator segment and a mount or rail somewhere.
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. SNIP
I don't think everyone is on the same page about the corrosion issue. Here is a good primer with pictures: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
The corrosion happens within the water loop due to mixed metals and degrades the blocks, pump and rads. Using additives will assist in keeping this to a minimum but will not stop it completely.
The best approach is to design the loop without mixed metals if you can.
The screws and nylon shoulder washers for the upper and lower modules arrived early, so I was able to drill the pilot holes on the lower mount, and make a jig for drilling the module segments.
Since folks have expressed concern about galvanic corrosion, here is how I plan to address this for the upper and lower radiator modules. Each module segment will be attached with two screws to both the upper and lower mounts. Since nylon screws likely couldn't take the torque of being moved around a lot, I chose to use stainless steel screws with nylon shoulder washers which will be countersunk into the bottom of the mounts. The radiator-facing side of the mount (right side in the diagram) will have a nylon washer between the mount and the radiator. Here is an exploded view:
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource. Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis 
What if he use Brass blocks? Dont be a retard and saying "dissimilar metals"... There is a technical term for what you're preferring to.
I'm sure the OP is smart enough to use addictive. Dont assume...
Uuuuum, try wiki Galvanic corrosion and report back the first two words under "overview"
"preferring to", "use addictive"??
ignore button engaged
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource. Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis
What if he use Brass blocks? Dont be a retard and saying "dissimilar metals"... There is a technical term for what you're preferring to.
I'm sure the OP is smart enough to use addictive. Dont assume...
I was not dissing on the OP's project at all, just pointing him at a resource. Dissimilar metals in a loop are a real concern, or I guess XSystem has overcome electrolysis
It's a neat idea, here are some things to keep in mind:
Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.
If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.
Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.
If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.
all this
you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs
lol Hard are kiddo compared to XSystem
Hard = highschool puter modders
Xsystem = Professional in the industry with modding hobby.
Let the OP do his project, stupid to tell ppl dont get a nice SL but mod a Mustang.
you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs
Lots of good info and designs in the [H]ardOCP forums.
Thanks for the tip!
September 2012: mounting the rails
Today I trimmed the nylon screws and attached both rails to the center module
Closeup showing nylon spacer
The hardware for mounting the remaining two module segments is on order, but won't arrive for another two weeks.
Today I trimmed the nylon screws and attached both rails to the center module
Closeup showing nylon spacer
The hardware for mounting the remaining two module segments is on order, but won't arrive for another two weeks.
It's a neat idea, here are some things to keep in mind:
Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.
If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.
Those passive radiators are cool and do work, but they're quite expensive and you will need many to dissipate 900W. For about $100-150 you can buy a brand new car radiator that is designed to handle many kilowatts of heat. Slap a big low RPM fan or two on there and it will be dead silent. Make up a nice box for it and nobody will notice it. This will also take up less space than a giant passive radiator.
If you use copper water blocks with those aluminum radiators, you will need to run a mix of coolant that includes a corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion.
all this
you should peruse [H]ardOCP, people have this stuff nailed down pretty good for uber gaming/folding rigs
July and August 2012: Drilling and mounting the rails
Drilling the rails
The Aquaero 5 XT has finally arrived! It was back-ordered for three months from Germany. This will serve as the controller for all the pumps and sensors.
Expanding the holes on the rails
Tapping the holes on the mounts
The bottom rail attached to the mount
Top view of the bottom rail and mount
The top and bottom rails and mounts assembled. Less that 0.5mm difference between the two! Not bad for doing everything with hand tools...
Initial assembly of the middle segment and rails with the nylon screws
Drilling the rails
The Aquaero 5 XT has finally arrived! It was back-ordered for three months from Germany. This will serve as the controller for all the pumps and sensors.
Expanding the holes on the rails
Tapping the holes on the mounts
The bottom rail attached to the mount
Top view of the bottom rail and mount
The top and bottom rails and mounts assembled. Less that 0.5mm difference between the two! Not bad for doing everything with hand tools...
Initial assembly of the middle segment and rails with the nylon screws
June 2012: cutting the rail spacers and drilling the mounts
Checking the fit
Drilling the mounts
Checking the fit
Drilling the mounts
Jump to: