Seasonic
Silverstone Strider
Corsair AX
Enermax Platimax
Are the Best PSUs you can buy
Topic: Seasonic PSU's and powering ASIC's (Read 3219 times)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182082
This just arrived today and I'm going to use it to power 3 bASIC devices.. as most Platinum rated PSUs go this one is underrated in wattage, puts out a good 100w more than sticker. Single 12v rail. should do the trick right?
This just arrived today and I'm going to use it to power 3 bASIC devices.. as most Platinum rated PSUs go this one is underrated in wattage, puts out a good 100w more than sticker. Single 12v rail. should do the trick right?
Heh, yeah, I know, we all have piles of hardware that are a waste. I still have four 30 pin, 1 MB/70 ms Simm RAM chips that I paid $100 each for from my first real PC. (Compudyne 486DX2/50) Why? I don't know, but I think all techies have a bit of hoarder in them.
Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
Agreed, but no matter the quality, you're likely to get longer life out of a PSU if it's not running 100% load 24x7
Agreed. But to be fair, one must consider what that lifespan might reasonably be. I have an old Antec something or other from 1995(ish) sitting my room, that still works, but I would never use it, nor could I, as it has like 50% of the wattage delivered on the 3.3V and 5V lines. I suspect most PSUs will outlive your use for it either way, and it can even be a blessing for hardware to die if you have some weird crazy OCD about usable hardware (like me
, I have piles of "working" but worthless old hardware). Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
Agreed, but no matter the quality, you're likely to get longer life out of a PSU if it's not running 100% load 24x7
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
I will be the first to admit that it's not exactly scientific. My reasoning is based off the amount of heat that is dumped into a PSU due to inefficiency. An 80 Plus Gold PSU will waste less energy in the form of heat, so it's easier to cool. Thus, you could probably pull a higher continuous load and not have to worry about temps. I also gave a disclaimer and said you should be running a high quality PSU. If you pick up a 850W PSU for $50 on sale from a no-name brand, then you're just asking for trouble. I just sorta go by this rule to give myself a good starting point.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!Most quality PSUs are rated to run continuously at their full labelled power. Many reviewers even use hotbox torture chambers to verify stability of PSUs at full and even over-load.
If you plan to run a PSU near or at it's label, get a quality PSU, and don't worry about rules of thumb.
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
I will be the first to admit that it's not exactly scientific. My reasoning is based off the amount of heat that is dumped into a PSU due to inefficiency. An 80 Plus Gold PSU will waste less energy in the form of heat, so it's easier to cool. Thus, you could probably pull a higher continuous load and not have to worry about temps. I also gave a disclaimer and said you should be running a high quality PSU. If you pick up a 850W PSU for $50 on sale from a no-name brand, then you're just asking for trouble. I just sorta go by this rule to give myself a good starting point.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!
I like single rail psu's too.
I have updated the op with more details from seasonic re:1000 watt platinum. (second quote)
I have updated the op with more details from seasonic re:1000 watt platinum. (second quote)
Rule of Thumb - Desktop Publishing - About.com
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
I agree with this definition, and what I said is compatible. I said "in general" it is based on scientific logic, not "necessarily".
And crazyates's suggestion is precisely nothing more than a "dumb guess".
(Sorry crazyates, I sound harsh. Don't take it as a personal attack. I am just here to correct technical knowledge.)
Rule of Thumb - Desktop Publishing - About.com
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
desktoppub.about.com/od/glossary/g/Rule-Of-Thumb.htm
Definition: A rule of thumb is an easy-to-remember guideline that isn't necessarily a hard-and-fast rule or scientific formula but it's more than just a dumb guess.
no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
Christ on a crutch, that's a thing? Really? Talk about OCD, holy shit!
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
You should not call this a "rule of thumb". A rule of thumb is in general based on a scientific reasoning or experimental validation. But here, you are just playing with numbers to make them "line up" in a way no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
You should not call this a "rule of thumb". A rule of thumb is in general based on a scientific reasoning or experimental validation. But here, you are just playing with numbers to make them "line up" in a way no more scientific than TV watchers who prefer the sound level to be set to an even number instead of an odd number.
My rule of thumb: a PSU's continuous load usage should be the same percentage of max load as the PSU's peak efficiency.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
This assumes a quality PSU, as well. I'm loving my Seasonic 650W Gold, and I'd trust that up to ~600W no problem.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's only 80% efficient, then I'd only trust it to run at 80% of it's max load, or 800W.
If you've got a 1000W PSU that's 90% efficient, then I'd trust it to run at 90% of it's max load, or 900W.
This assumes a quality PSU, as well. I'm loving my Seasonic 650W Gold, and I'd trust that up to ~600W no problem.
I'm partial to our PCP&C 950W Silencers. They're consistently 1080W out of the box and you can get them close to $100 at some places online. Portable, Single Rail. I love it!
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
You want to share your math? My napkin says that an 800W PSU that's 80% efficient would only pull 1000W from the wall, not 1250W. If a 800W PSU was pulling 1250W from the wall, that'd mean it's only 64% efficient.
Ah, yeah, that should say it is rated to push 1000 watts at full load, I did my original calculation with 800 watts, but changed it to 1000 watts to match the example listed previously and didn't update that second reference to 800 watts. A 1000 Watt PSU running at 100% load needs to push 1000 Watts to the computer, to do that, it needs to pull 1250 Watts from the wall. (1250 * .80 = 1000 Watts)
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A 1000W PSU that's 80% efficient is rated to output 1000W, using 1250W input.
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 800 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
You want to share your math? My napkin says that an 800W PSU that's 80% efficient would only pull 1000W from the wall, not 1250W. If a 800W PSU was pulling 1250W from the wall, that'd mean it's only 64% efficient.
I just wanted to throw my vote in for the Corsair cx430. I have had a cx400 that is made by seasonic and the new cx430 which is cwt. These psu's can handle 400w all day long without breaking a sweat. Sometimes the cx430 is only $17 at newegg. It's currently $25 after rebate(edit: $20 after rebate and $5 promo code). I definitely recommend if you don't need a lot of power and don't want to spend a lot of money like these crazy people buying the seasonic 1000w @ $230. I know it's platinum and it looks like a badass psu. But if you're on a budget, $60 for 1200w(1550 max before it trips) for 3 cx430's sounds like a deal to me.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284/9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284/9
All PSU's can, and will, pull current above their rated maximum due to efficiency loss. A 1000 watt PSU that is 80% efficient means it is rated to push 1000 watts at full load, but will actually be drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Cheap PSU's won't stand up for very long under those conditions, whereas better quality (and more expensive) PSU's can handle it better.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
A general rule of thumb I like to use is to never push a PSU beyond 85-90% of it's rated value, so for a 1000 watt PSU, I'd never want more than a 850-900 watt power draw on it, regardless of efficiency ratings.
Go out and buy a Killawatt meter and check your power draws from your wall if you really want to see how much power your PC is using.
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