No it is NOT common nor a Canaan thing. Was it sold as new and who was the distributor? It should have been pristine. The fan axial motion is common and can be caused by the type of bearing used. Canaan does final burn-in tests on all their miners but those only run for at most 1-day -- certainly not long enough to make them dirty.
Grant you the A11 is not their current generation and AFAIK has been out of production for a while. It may have been in storage or on a shelf for several months - IN the box - but it should be clean.
Topic: Setup Questions - Whatsminer M32 54TH (Read 246 times)
Received delivery of my Avalonminer 1166 Pro today. I was expecting a new unit but it came pretty dirty so I feel pretty confident it was used. The exhaust fan plugs seem to move in and out a bit but I am not sure if that will make a difference. I have not yet run the machine, the power cable arrives tomorrow.
Is it pretty common for "new" machines to come in this condition? Maybe this is Canaan specific?
Is it pretty common for "new" machines to come in this condition? Maybe this is Canaan specific?
gothca thanks thats why I double checked!
Quote
The male end of the cord is L6-20P which means it should go with L6-30R?
No! It needs to be L6-20R to match the male end of the cord. The 30R is a larger diameter connector meant to mate with 30P.The breaker is perfect.
Edit - my bad - I see I said 30 in the above post - fixed that....
thank you.
The male end of the cord is L6-20P which means it should go with L6-30R?
The breaker is a double pole, each with 20A
The male end of the cord is L6-20P which means it should go with L6-30R?
The breaker is a double pole, each with 20A
In North America, 'Neutral' and 'hot' usually are not relevant terms when it comes 208 and higher. There is no neutral connection supplying power, just two hots, L1 & L2 which goes to which pin does not matter (just keep ground as ground!).
In Europe and other countries where the wall plug voltage is 220V yes one pin is neutral and the other pin is hot same as NA does 120v (1 neut, 1 hot) but again, the equipment does not care about the connections.
re the outlet, to keep things easy, go with whatever the male end of the cord is. If it's 6-20P then the outlet would be 6-20R. If the cord is locking (L) then match the outlet to be the same. To keep things fully to-code also change the circuit breaker feeding the outlet to be 20A but frankly I would not worry about it.
In Europe and other countries where the wall plug voltage is 220V yes one pin is neutral and the other pin is hot same as NA does 120v (1 neut, 1 hot) but again, the equipment does not care about the connections.
re the outlet, to keep things easy, go with whatever the male end of the cord is. If it's 6-20P then the outlet would be 6-20R. If the cord is locking (L) then match the outlet to be the same. To keep things fully to-code also change the circuit breaker feeding the outlet to be 20A but frankly I would not worry about it.
cooler minds prevailed. Waiting on a NEMA L6-20P to C19 cable to be delivered. I need to swap out the outlet from a NEMA 6-30. Does it also need to be a NEMA L6-30 or would a NEMA L6-20 suffice? Does the power cable need to be L6-30 as opposed to L6-20 (the one I ordered)?
I like your 6-30P to the C19 idea it is just hard to find just the 6-30P alone without it being an extension cord.
A C19 connector seems to use 3 different wires: a hot a neutral and a ground. The 6-30 as I understand it is two hots and a ground. Am I mistaken here? Which wire then would pair with which?
A C19 connector seems to use 3 different wires: a hot a neutral and a ground. The 6-30 as I understand it is two hots and a ground. Am I mistaken here? Which wire then would pair with which?
Bigger question is do you know how to properly splice the wires together?...
Do NOT use crimp splices - they do not give a stable connection at high current and will eventually deteriorate. Best way is to solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing & tape.
Personally I'd get the C20 cable from Amazon and just a 6-30P plug from Home Depot or McMaster, cut the male plug off the C20 cable and put the 6-30P connector onto the cable. That is the best and safest way to do it.. While not a 'legal' cord because the source end (male 6-30) can be plugged into a 30A outlet it would work perfect.
Do NOT use crimp splices - they do not give a stable connection at high current and will eventually deteriorate. Best way is to solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing & tape.
Personally I'd get the C20 cable from Amazon and just a 6-30P plug from Home Depot or McMaster, cut the male plug off the C20 cable and put the 6-30P connector onto the cable. That is the best and safest way to do it.. While not a 'legal' cord because the source end (male 6-30) can be plugged into a 30A outlet it would work perfect.
given the essence of time, I will be getting the amazon linked cable (c19) and will hope my local hardware store has the 6-30 cable. No one seems to sell just the 6-30 plug thats not the locking type. Any idea if the two wires linked are safe to connect to one another? One is 10 awg (the NEMA 6-30 cable) and the C19 cable is 12 awg.
I'll probably go pick up something like this NEMA 6-30 cord:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-ft-STW-10-3-30-Amp-250-Volt-Heavy-Duty-Industral-NEMA-6-30-Extension-Cord-60653/316677060
as well as this c19 cord
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C19-IEC-320-C20-P036-006/dp/B001348EDC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&dd=_8lukwCHumc2UugKtjoz1w%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=free&keywords=c19%2Bcable%2Bnema%2B6&qid=1619555483&refinements=p_101%3A19346685011&rnid=19346684011&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1
So I can hack off the receiving end of the NEMA 6-30 and the c20 end of the other cable, strip the wires on both, then properly connect into 1 new cable? Hope theres some janky youtube videos on this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-ft-STW-10-3-30-Amp-250-Volt-Heavy-Duty-Industral-NEMA-6-30-Extension-Cord-60653/316677060
as well as this c19 cord
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C19-IEC-320-C20-P036-006/dp/B001348EDC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&dd=_8lukwCHumc2UugKtjoz1w%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=free&keywords=c19%2Bcable%2Bnema%2B6&qid=1619555483&refinements=p_101%3A19346685011&rnid=19346684011&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1
So I can hack off the receiving end of the NEMA 6-30 and the c20 end of the other cable, strip the wires on both, then properly connect into 1 new cable? Hope theres some janky youtube videos on this
You can always get the 6-30P from Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever you have for home improvement stores in your area and replace the end of a C19 cable. In the US there is also McMaster carr https://www.mcmaster.com/6-30-plugs?SrchEntryWebPart_InpBox=6-30p
ah that looks like the L6-30 if I understand correctly. I should specify my existing outlet is the non locking version and the corresponding plug looks like this one: http://www.yunhuanelectric.com/Clkj_Images/upfile/Bigpic/heavy-duty-power-cord-nema-6-30p.jpg
Any idea if a plug like that (the one I linked) to a C19 is also something sold or makable?
Any idea if a plug like that (the one I linked) to a C19 is also something sold or makable?
Just make your own. Yes it technically violates code but certainly will not harm the miner.
I made a lot of them.
I think I have a link for some premade.
Maybe dell.
give me a minute or two.
found an ebay link
www.ebay.com/itm/121181887649
these used to be 10-12 bucks.
I made 5 or 6 of them.
And i purchased 15 and they are work well.
Just make your own. Yes it technically violates code but certainly will not harm the miner.
odd question but I may have a period of time between when I get a new 240v outlet installed for my miner and when I receive possession of the miner. Since time is money with this I would like it online ASAP. I do currently have a NEMA 6-30R currently installed (for a wall AC unit) that I wold in theory use in the meantime. I can't seem to find any sort of 6-30P -> C19 plugs. I am unclear if that is because electronics with C19 aren't rated for that high amps or if there is an actual risk for devices with C19 to run over wires that support 30amps. Does it make any sense for me to make my own C19 -> 6-30P cable? Or is this just a risk to fry my machine?
L means it is a twist-lock plug. Only needed if there is a concern with a cord being accidentally pulled out.
Any advantage to something like NEMA L6-20P vs the regular NEMA 6-20P?
12 ga will work fine. It will get a little warm but be good.
Jump to: