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Topic: Specs on BFL Single power adapter? - page 4. (Read 13075 times)

sr. member
Activity: 360
Merit: 250
March 12, 2012, 04:15:08 PM
#56
Revision is v1, not 2, unless you are counting the smaller prototypes as rev1.

Firmware I don't know.

Power Consumption including PSU brick is between 85 - 89w I think... I don't have my kill-a-watt here though.  It's definitely more than 80w and definitely less than 90w.  I think 85w is a safe average.



Ok, thanks for checking. I have changed it.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 12, 2012, 04:13:40 PM
#55
Revision is v1, not 2, unless you are counting the smaller prototypes as rev1.

Firmware I don't know.

Power Consumption including PSU brick is between 85 - 89w I think... I don't have my kill-a-watt here though.  It's definitely more than 80w and definitely less than 90w.  I think 85w is a safe average.

sr. member
Activity: 360
Merit: 250
March 12, 2012, 04:11:02 PM
#54
I went ahead and cut the insulation.  12.1v at full load (12.22v at idle).

I also measured ambient - it's around 80F not 72F, if we can believe my IR thermometer.



Thanks for the measurement.

I try to wrap up the data.

BFL single revision: 1
Firmware version: ?
Environment temperature: 80F / 26.7°C
Supply voltage: +12V
Power supply voltage: 115VAC
Power supply frequency: 60Hz
Power consumption single only @idle: ~20.8W
Power consumption single only @mining: ~71.4W
Power supply loss @mining: ~13.6W
Power consumption incl. power supply @mining: ~85W
Power supply efficiency @mining: ~84%  

Could you please verify it.
I guess the power consumption will slightly decrease if you run the unit with a lower environment temperature.
I will verify this data with my own measurements when receiving my first 2 units.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
March 12, 2012, 04:10:33 PM
#53
I measure 10mm for metallic part and plastic tip.  8mm of metal and 2mm plastic tip.

Thanks.  I could have swore Sonny said 12mm but I may have been wrong.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 12, 2012, 04:09:51 PM
#52
I measure 10mm for metallic part and plastic tip.  8mm of metal and 2mm plastic tip.

donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
March 12, 2012, 03:53:28 PM
#51
Tentative good news.  OEM is considering the order a small run.  Not sure if it is past business or that the economy is slow.  In the past I know the have balked at runs below thousand units.  No idea on pricing yet, no need to respond saying you want one, and don't get your hopes up yet.

My contact called me back.  He asked for a wiring diagram to give to the team. Anyone have experience making wiring drawings?  Smiley
Diagram is pretty simple but my graphical skills are lacking.  If anyone has experience and wants to help let me know in thread or by PM.

Also if someone can measure the PSU barrel adapter.  Measure in mm the length of the metalic part.  I know BFL indicates 12mm but I just want to make sure.  12mm seems a very strange length for 2.5mm/5.5mm barrel plug.  Can't seem to find a part # anywhere (Molex, digikey, half dozen suppliers, etc).  Found 8mm length and 14mm length but not 12mm length.  Huh  If someone from BFL is reading this and has part # for the barrel power socket on the BFL Single board it would help finding an exact match.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 12, 2012, 01:57:49 PM
#50
I went ahead and cut the insulation.  12.1v at full load (12.22v at idle).

I also measured ambient - it's around 80F not 72F, if we can believe my IR thermometer.

rjk
sr. member
Activity: 448
Merit: 250
1ngldh
March 12, 2012, 01:56:44 PM
#49
Temp is right around 72F.  I did not take voltage measurements as it would require me to cut the wire and put the multimeter in line.  If that's really important, then I can do it, but I can't see how it's terribly relevant for our purposes, yeah?

Watts is what matters but I am sure the PSU is running at 12V +/-5% so it really is just double checking.  If the PSU was running hot (>12VDC) then the amps would be lower for the same amount of wattage.

I don't know this specific low-cost power supply. But I wouldn't be too surprised if the voltage would be out of the +/-5% window.

Interesting that the external power-supply is getting so hot, that you nearly can't touch it anymore, if it "only" has ~10Watt power-loss. Hmm...

I put the PSU in front of a very small low velocity fan and it became a lot cooler. Probably just because the plastic does not dissipate the heat very well.

BFL stated the voltage specs for the single, I believe the maximum was as high as 14 volts but better double check for the post around here somewhere.
sr. member
Activity: 360
Merit: 250
March 12, 2012, 01:11:33 PM
#48
Temp is right around 72F.  I did not take voltage measurements as it would require me to cut the wire and put the multimeter in line.  If that's really important, then I can do it, but I can't see how it's terribly relevant for our purposes, yeah?

Watts is what matters but I am sure the PSU is running at 12V +/-5% so it really is just double checking.  If the PSU was running hot (>12VDC) then the amps would be lower for the same amount of wattage.

I don't know this specific low-cost power supply. But I wouldn't be too surprised if the voltage would be out of the +/-5% window.

Interesting that the external power-supply is getting so hot, that you nearly can't touch it anymore, if it "only" has ~10Watt power-loss. Hmm...
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
March 12, 2012, 12:56:25 PM
#47
Temp is right around 72F.  I did not take voltage measurements as it would require me to cut the wire and put the multimeter in line.  If that's really important, then I can do it, but I can't see how it's terribly relevant for our purposes, yeah?

Watts is what matters but I am sure the PSU is running at 12V +/-5% so it really is just double checking.  If the PSU was running hot (>12VDC) then the amps would be lower for the same amount of wattage.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 12, 2012, 12:53:11 PM
#46
Temp is right around 72F.  I did not take voltage measurements as it would require me to cut the wire and put the multimeter in line.  If that's really important, then I can do it, but I can't see how it's terribly relevant for our purposes, yeah?
sr. member
Activity: 360
Merit: 250
March 12, 2012, 12:41:08 PM
#45
Ok, got the numbers:

1.7A @ Idle
5.9A @ At 100% mining

So we're looking at around 70w of actual usage on a quality PSU instead of a power brick.  Not terrible.


Thanks for measurement.
What was your environment temperature?
Did you also measured the voltage in both states and if, was it exactly +12V ?

This means the BFL single only takes ~70.8W when mining.
With a high efficiency Power Supply (let say one with 93%) this are still ~75.8Watt per BFL singleThanks for measurement...
Would also be interesting to see how much the power consumption decreases by improving the airflow.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
March 12, 2012, 09:17:22 AM
#44
Ok, got the numbers:

1.7A @ Idle
5.9A @ At 100% mining

So we're looking at around 70w of actual usage on a quality PSU instead of a power brick.  Not terrible.


Awesome which is what I guessed it would be (cheapo PSU being ~75% to 80%).  3x barrel connectors on 1 PCIe connector should be no issue then.  Hopefully I get an answer back today.  I am hoping they will do a small run as a favor as the last time I worked with them was for 2,000 custom SAS wiring (building out a custom SAN solution).
rjk
sr. member
Activity: 448
Merit: 250
1ngldh
March 12, 2012, 09:06:38 AM
#43
Ok, got the numbers:

1.7A @ Idle
5.9A @ At 100% mining

So we're looking at around 70w of actual usage on a quality PSU instead of a power brick.  Not terrible.

Sweeeeeet.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 12, 2012, 09:06:15 AM
#42
Ok, got the numbers:

1.7A @ Idle
5.9A @ At 100% mining

So we're looking at around 70w of actual usage on a quality PSU instead of a power brick.  Not terrible.
sr. member
Activity: 446
Merit: 250
March 12, 2012, 12:54:19 AM
#41
I got my clamp meter in my bag for work tomorrow, so I'll see what's what tomorrow morning or early afternoon.

Thank you.
legendary
Activity: 1260
Merit: 1000
March 11, 2012, 09:10:35 PM
#40
I got my clamp meter in my bag for work tomorrow, so I'll see what's what tomorrow morning or early afternoon.
rjk
sr. member
Activity: 448
Merit: 250
1ngldh
March 11, 2012, 09:09:21 PM
#39
If you desperately didn't want to damage the power brick, you might also be able to go to RadioShack and get the parts to build an extender, then clamp that.
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
March 11, 2012, 04:55:25 PM
#38
Correct me if I'm wrong but a clamp meter only works with AC current. DC must be measured in line.

Corrected.  Smiley

The "hall effect" (what a clamp meter uses) can measure both AC & DC current.  You need a clamp meter designed to measure both.   Not all clamp meters are AC & DC.  The cheaper ones are AC only. 

Using a DC clamp meter you can avoid needing to splice the cable.  You simply need to separate the conductors so you can clamp ONE only.
sr. member
Activity: 446
Merit: 250
March 11, 2012, 04:40:25 PM
#37
No one has measured actual power consumption as far as I know.  It would involve tearing apart the current power cable, and no one has been willing to do that yet.  I might see what I can get taken care of as far as that goes, I think I have a spare around somewhere. But my unit is downtown and I'm at home, so it'll have to wait until next week.

This would actually be incredibly useful.  Any decent ($60+) clamp meter should be able to accurately measure DC current.

One would simply need to cut the cable right down the middle.  We are talking about the cable between the PSU brick and the barrel connector.  With clamp meter no need to cut the insulation you just need to separate the 12V and DC wires.  You just need to separate the two wires otherwise they current in opposite directions cancels out the meter (it will read 0 amps which is correct).  Put only the 12V wire in the clamp and measure current under load.

Correct me if I'm wrong but a clamp meter only works with AC current. DC must be measured in line.

This information is something I want also. I have 3 singles set up now and have 7 more arriving over the next week. The 3 power bricks are rather hot and I have them sitting on my window sill to help cool them. (Temperature outside is 18F so it helps but they are still somewhat hot. I have my window open a bit to keep the singles as cool as possible. They work fine even when I closed the window and temp in the room went to 80F but why push it if I don't have to.

With 10 singles and 4 more on order I want as efficient a setup as possible. I've emailed Sonny asking what the singles themselves consume but so far no reply. I have the meters to measure the current in line. I just need to bring myself to cut the cable. I can easily splice it back together. I've been hoping Sonny would get me the info so I wouldn't have to though.
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