Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com - page 1273. (Read 3049528 times)

how many time you have to show how clueless you are?
WU is important along with HW error rate

High WU and low HW error % will be your highest Gh avg

run along now

KnC 0:| 161.3G/129.0Gh/s | A:23158 R:1067 HW:2166 WU:2099.0/m

root@Mercury-3DF:~# uptime
 17:46:50 up 13 min,  load average: 1.99, 1.84, 1.12

Smiley face isn't big enough for this hashrate, 129.0GH/s
------------------
root@Mercury-3DF:~# uptime
17:59:24 up 25 min,  load average: 1.99, 1.98, 1.61
KnC 0: | 143.9G/131.6Gh/s | A:49321 R:2525 HW:4234 WU:2130.3/m
-------------------

So, the load on the BBB?  I've heard mention those figures should be <1.0.

Just tried firmware 0.90 with enablecores.bin

KnC 0: | 168.0G/109.9Gh/s | A:5014 R:257 HW:774 WU:1985.0/m

Previously the best WU: I could get were just above 1500.

It's only been up a few minutes but that's the first I've seen the average over 100!

a minute later...   KnC 0:   | 168.3G/121.1Gh/s | A:8254 R:500 HW:1048 WU:2060.0/m

the cores enable/disable fine in 0.96...

WU theory.....peeps keep sayin' WU is most important...more is better.. I see opposite
as they fluctuate, wu's also change...
fact is...the one with the LEAST WU's is fastest always on mine

***I also wonder if trying slot 6 on those two boards may help?
is anyone experiencing different speeds changing slot plugins on the controller board?


edit:   0.96 also adds features to the gui

wu theory?? 

Searing

yeah I heard that 96 does not bring up bad cores...but again ...was gonna wait see how it shakes out...I mean it is doing 535gh as ave so and yeah it was down I turned it off with ssh trgettig that going prob only up 1hr...i'll upgrade eventually but imho on these knc upgrades you prob sholdd like to every other one...the first users of such seem to get creamed imho

prob i'll see .97 come out...wait a bit then slip up to that (im still tramatized by how my unit arrived from DHL the fiends...I thought I had a block erruptor at best)

Searing

Personally, I think the WU theory is straight B.S.
Look at these and tell me...

Yes, it fairly obvious where you got the original conclusion from. You can check this post to see where I got my $1000+ figure from if you are interested https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3362943

looks ok... but i'd use 0.96 asap
looks like it wasnt running for long?
takes about 15 mins to come up to par

Ok I managed to get putty to work and ssh...here is a screen shot of my Jupiter? all Greek to me...how does it look ...ballpark for HW errors etc ...difficulty? someone said you could set that as well..again this is STOCK came with .95 and hash wise seems OK so I did not touch anything but add ssh and putty...so anyway what does the screen shot tell you anything of note...

 er also check my other two pics here on imgur.....the box was sooooo trashed by DHL and full of water too the case was....but anyway to my untrained eye it looks pretty good this screen shot any tweaking is welcome I'm a noob to cgminer

http://imgur.com/vpTscD0


 much better today then the look on my face when I saw the DHL guy with my box lte me tell you!!!!!

 Searing

Oh I just pulled that conclusion out of my ass.
But I have since done some calculations. I think you most likely would have paid about 20 btc for a mercury (early July). Geniblock says it will only ever mine 14 btc, and right now btc are worth about $1000 for 6.

Show me the math that leads you to that conclusion? I don't think you realise how much a mercury is mining per day.

What do KnC say? 100 is the rig you paid for. Anything less is faulty.

Unlikely short term, very likely in the long term.
If making a few quid is all that matters, it won't be hard to turn a profit ..mine a short while..Ebay. They are going well on there.

LOL Mercury beggars  u never get the money back

I wonder about modules which lost fans in transit.  I wonder if they somehow saw a greater shock and as a result will have a higher disabled core rate.  If so that might indicate shock damage at the Ball Grid Array where the rubber meets the road, the ASIC meets the PCB.

My Mercury, with upgraded firmware to 0.96 and having ran enablecores.bin, ran all night on Slush's, never reached 100GH/s, only registered 75-77GH/s on Slush.  Can't see the cores without BertMod but the last time I did on 0.95 the cores were 0/75.0%, 1/95.8%, 2/89.6%, 3/91.7%.  Plenty of cooling (34.5°C).  Cgminer:  KnC 0:| 99.02G/99.10Gh/s | A:883542 R:5697 HW:370264 WU:1505.5/m which means HW is 41.9%.

Something of a disappointment after reading most Jupiters were getting well over 500GH/s.  And to think, the Merc's cost the customer more per GH/s than Saturns or Jupiters.

If the 1 sticker isn't wrong then perhaps a shock in transit damaged the BGA as the fan was off the one module.

So I guess you only bought a mercury. If only we all had that power of foresight.

I got my miner yesterday, it was shipped by DHL. I checked all fans (6 boards) and 2 of them were deattached. Got them in place and everything is working fine.

To distract myself from the fact I'm losing about $1000+ in bitcoin due to KNC late shipping, I thought I'd write a:

Checklist Of Things To Do When Your KNC Miner Arrives
--------------------
It's pretty much an essential step now to check inside your miner before you power it up for the first time, due to all the issues being reported.

You will need:
1x T20 Torx screwdriver (to open the miner case)

Be careful when you open the case, as the screws may fall off inside.


1. Remount any fans dislodged during shipping.
Problem:
https://i.imgur.com/dHKOf3i.jpg

Solution:
https://i.imgur.com/WLBv95j.png

The correct way to remount them is with the "Arctic" label visible at the front. Putting them the other way around will cause your miner to suck (ha) and force air in the wrong direction through the case.


2. Check the fan connectors are correctly attached to the controller board
As the fans have been rattled about, the connectors might have become disconnected from the controller board. Also, some have mentioned that the fan have been plugged in one pin along by mistake during production, so make sure the connector is in the right place. If one of the inlet fans is dead, this might be the reason.


3. Check if peel off sticker between heatsink and chip has been removed
Important - A layer of plastic between the heatsink and chip is not good.

You should be able to see if the plastic is there on your unit without removing the heatsink. This is a very useful photo to go by:
Problem:
http://forum.kncminer.com/filedata/fetch?photoid=8378

Solution:
http://forum.kncminer.com/filedata/fetch?photoid=8379

The procedure to remove is explained in details in link below. Thanks to aerou on the knc forum for his eagle eye spotting the problem and taking photos etc.
http://forum.kncminer.com/forum/main-category/hardware/8377-it-should-be-removed-before-the-cooler-is-installed-this-is-a-instalation-quality-check-failure
You will also need to reapply thermal paste when you put the heatsink back on, lots of videos on youtube on how to do this.


4. Check for physical damage to heatsink
Damage like the damge in this photo will not be a problem, it won't affect cooling in any noticeable way.
https://i.imgur.com/QPYnXmv.jpg

However if, for example, the crossbar that holds the heatsink in place is bent, this is a more serious problem, as there will be bad contact between the heatsink and chip.
Problem:
https://i.imgur.com/ZALdHfN.png

Solution:
This is probably a very limited problem, I've only seen one report of this damage. If you are concerned you have a similar situation, please post a photo on the forum and others will be able to help. You may need to replace the heatsink with a new one (Arctic Freezer i30). But post a photo first before you go buying a bunch of new stuff.


5. Check the beaglebone is seated correctly
Tomasu on the KNC forum spotted this issue on his device:
Problem:
"People should also make sure their controller board (the beaglebone thing) is properly seated. mine arrived half off, and wouldn't start up at all. If people are having issues with that, they should open it all up and check ALL THE THINGS. "
Solution:
The beaglebone is in the centre of the controller board (https://www.kncminer.com/userfiles/image/controller_board.jpg)
If it is in the right place, push it down GENTLY to ensure it is seated correctly. Do not use force. Then view it from the side and make sure it is level with the controller board, which is a good indication it is now correctly seated.


6. Make sure ALL cables are connected correctly
Make sure all the blue power cables are connected to a board.
Make sure the cables from the controller board are also connected to a board.


7. Check for any debris in the case - loose screws, washers, grey hair from having to wait so long for your miner to arrive. Do a final check that the case is clean and clear of everything before screwing the lid back on.


That should be it. A pretty thorough checklist of things to do before you power up for the first time.

I'll leave it to guys who have their devices already to give instructions on how to find your IP, use Putty etc. Lot's of info about this on the KNC forum etc.
Don't forget the action packed 6 page KNC manual that can be found on their support page: https://www.kncminer.com/pages/support


Final note: Do not cool your miner with beer!
http://imgur.com/L561N4H
This could cause major damage to good beer.


Thanks to everyone who reported issues and took all the photo's I've used to illustrate the checklist.
The Avenger

P.S. If you cross-post this anywhere, please credit me as the author and direct people back to this original post (i.e. https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/m.3368753).