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Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com - page 874. (Read 3050071 times)

hero member
Activity: 784
Merit: 1004
Glow Stick Dance!
December 06, 2013, 02:41:54 PM
just stopped in to say...    'if you would of just bought BTC instead of ...  blah blah'  

anyone want mark down all the coins they could of sold at 1100+ ??  


.. as you were



HAHAHA!

Sure glad I invested in hardware instead.  Right?
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
December 06, 2013, 02:40:36 PM
Lots of snow falling here, still no problems with the Jupiter. Eligius 12hr hashrate avg is steadily climbing, currently at 650gh.  Someone asked if there was a difference case on or off. I saw no hash rate difference with either, so right now the case is on to keep it looking good.

Guys replacing heatsinks, is there a better than stock replacement out there if we run into issues in the future overclocking them? I think the current heatsinks are pretty good.
hero member
Activity: 616
Merit: 500
December 06, 2013, 02:36:33 PM
just stopped in to say...    'if you would of just bought BTC instead of ...  blah blah'  

anyone want mark down all the coins they could of sold at 1100+ ??  


.. as you were



You mean the ones I sold at 1200? Buying time is coming up soon Smiley

I'm mourning a dead Blade today, my one and only.  It's come up with all xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx for the ASICs.  We had a warm December day in Georgia, 71.6°F out and 76.0°F in the room.

I couldn't bring myself to buy a Neptune.  Just too much for me.  That the Neptunes aren't sold out yet tempts me right now.  But no.  Ah, the falling BTC harvest, now accelerated losing 10GH/s.  It's like aging.

That sucks... 76* killing it ? Is it a really oooold blade?

Anyone else have a die that shows up as "off" in BertMod?



With SPI voltage at 3.3v, I've tried adjusting the individual die voltage from the lowest to the highest without effect.



Is there any benefit to bertmod if your KNC equipment is hashing well above spec'd rate?
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
December 06, 2013, 02:35:34 PM
So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?

have you tried disconnecting the data cables to the ASIC boards but leave the power connected?  Not that this will fix anything but you can eliminate the ASIC boards are faulty.

just to see if it's a comms problem, because that's what it seems.
and only because you say all the asic boards are doing the same thing.

Ok so:
all boards data cables disconnected + power cable connected = boot & login
all boards data cables disconnected + power cable disconnected = boot & login
any 1 ASIC board data cable connected + power cable connected = dead

At this point I have to think it is an issue with the control board.  Obviously my amazing luck.  Anything else failing would leave me with some hashing power.

On edit: a weird possibly related issue.  Any settings made on the host (i.e. setting pool config or enabling SSH) are lost when powering off and on.
hero member
Activity: 574
Merit: 500
1.21 GIGA WATTS
December 06, 2013, 02:32:13 PM
So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?

have you tried disconnecting the data cables to the ASIC boards but leave the power connected?  Not that this will fix anything but you can eliminate the ASIC boards are faulty.

just to see if it's a comms problem, because that's what it seems.
and only because you say all the asic boards are doing the same thing.
sr. member
Activity: 462
Merit: 250
December 06, 2013, 02:25:10 PM
just stopped in to say...    'if you would of just bought BTC instead of ...  blah blah'  

anyone want mark down all the coins they could of sold at 1100+ ??  


.. as you were

sr. member
Activity: 386
Merit: 250
December 06, 2013, 02:23:16 PM
CYPHER

Now I understand your agressive inverse trolling recently.
(engage a troll and 'you are what you resent')

I wonder if you got the unit pheonix 'twisted' the cooler on.
Remember that amazing 'fix' ?







hero member
Activity: 812
Merit: 502
December 06, 2013, 02:18:38 PM
Does anyone know what the typical support e-mail reply time is nowadays?  I had a nice fireworks display on one of my Oct. Jupiter's when upgrading PSUs and haven't heard anything from them for a couple of days now aside from the auto reply. Just curious how long it will take to issue RMA.

What the bloody did you do? All you have to do is swap cables.

And that is precisely what i did.  I was going from a Coolermaster v1000 to a nice Corsair AX1200 gold.  Brand new out of the box never used, plug it all in, hit the switch and poof.......Fire!  That was my good Jupiter too. Sad

Here is the aftermath.


For this reason I think the plugs having both a jumper and a power resistor to the 3v line are a very good bet.  I know you followed instructions, but did you put in the jumper then fire up the supply and check that the voltage was there on the 12V, then shut down the supply, plug the power supply into the Jupiter, then switch on the supply?

If my theory that the current ramp, preventing current surge producing a voltage spike sufficient to blow the caps, the current ramp to ramp up current on the 12V line is actually controlled by a voltage ramp of 0 to 1V produced on the 3.3V line (because the 3.3V will be up to regulated voltage before the 5V or 12V) then putting in the jumper, turning on the supply to check if the jumper is correct and voltage being supplied, then shut down before plugging into Jupiter, since the supply expects that it is plugged into a motherboard having a load on the 3.3V line, it expects that when the supply is turned off the 3.3V line filter capacitors will drain out thru the motherboard.  That can't happen without a motherboard or a resistor to ground from the 3.3V line as well as the jumper.  

So, if  you check the jumper was correctly placed by looking for 12V on the 12V line, then shut down, plugged the supply into the Jupiter, and turned it on, the supply 3.3V line never drained and still had full voltage on its filter caps and the timed ramp voltage that controlled the ramp for the 12v current had remained at max, as if already having timed out its ramp, and BANG, instant max current.

So how can one prevent this from happening?
Shut down the PSU from the switch at the back, unplug from the socket and then remove and insert the jumper a couple of times to discharge everything?
full member
Activity: 226
Merit: 100
December 06, 2013, 02:07:56 PM
Anyone else have a die that shows up as "off" in BertMod?



With SPI voltage at 3.3v, I've tried adjusting the individual die voltage from the lowest to the highest without effect.

soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 06, 2013, 02:06:02 PM
I'm mourning a dead Blade today, my one and only.  It's come up with all xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx for the ASICs.  We had a warm December day in Georgia, 71.6°F out and 76.0°F in the room.

I couldn't bring myself to buy a Neptune.  Just too much for me.  That the Neptunes aren't sold out yet tempts me right now.  But no.  Ah, the falling BTC harvest, now accelerated losing 10GH/s.  It's like aging.
legendary
Activity: 1442
Merit: 1001
December 06, 2013, 01:56:21 PM
So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?

Have you tried all 4 ASIC boards individually (1 plugged in at a time)? I would try that first.
legendary
Activity: 938
Merit: 1000
LIR DEV
December 06, 2013, 01:55:40 PM
That's it.... I'm selling my Corsair ax1200's... remember the HX series before?  I'm abandoning Corsair.
Too coincidental. Scary, because I always did the jumper test first, just as soy describes.. and he's absolutely correct saying those caps hold a charge!
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 06, 2013, 01:51:36 PM
Does anyone know what the typical support e-mail reply time is nowadays?  I had a nice fireworks display on one of my Oct. Jupiter's when upgrading PSUs and haven't heard anything from them for a couple of days now aside from the auto reply. Just curious how long it will take to issue RMA.

What the bloody did you do? All you have to do is swap cables.

And that is precisely what i did.  I was going from a Coolermaster v1000 to a nice Corsair AX1200 gold.  Brand new out of the box never used, plug it all in, hit the switch and poof.......Fire!  That was my good Jupiter too. Sad

Here is the aftermath.


For this reason I think the plugs having both a jumper and a power resistor to the 3v line are a very good bet.  I know you followed instructions, but did you put in the jumper then fire up the supply and check that the voltage was there on the 12V, then shut down the supply, plug the power supply into the Jupiter, then switch on the supply?

If my theory that the current ramp, preventing current surge producing a voltage spike sufficient to blow the caps, the current ramp to ramp up current on the 12V line is actually controlled by a voltage ramp of 0 to 1V produced on the 3.3V line (because the 3.3V will be up to regulated voltage before the 5V or 12V) then putting in the jumper, turning on the supply to check if the jumper is correct and voltage being supplied, then shut down before plugging into Jupiter, since the supply expects that it is plugged into a motherboard having a load on the 3.3V line, it expects that when the supply is turned off the 3.3V line filter capacitors will drain out thru the motherboard.  That can't happen without a motherboard or a resistor to ground from the 3.3V line as well as the jumper.  

So, if  you check the jumper was correctly placed by looking for 12V on the 12V line, then shut down, plugged the supply into the Jupiter, and turned it on, the supply 3.3V line never drained and still had full voltage on its filter caps and the timed ramp voltage that controlled the ramp for the 12v current had remained at max, as if already having timed out its ramp, and BANG, instant max current.
legendary
Activity: 938
Merit: 1000
LIR DEV
December 06, 2013, 01:44:23 PM
Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.
Indeed strange. The cooler that was separately wrapped, is the one I bought from Amazon, and brand-new. I'm guessing that one of the attached coolers got forced backward/forward during shipping in a violent drop or something...  the weight of the loose cooler may have added to the weight of the cooler it was next to, causing the bend during a drop. Or even was a defect, and I never saw it.  I crammed as much bubble wrap as I could humanly fit into the box...Next time, no extra stuff in the case...  sorry to hear Cypher.  You got such a super deal though, it should be no problem for a heatsink...  The entire box was  insured for 10 grand... but a 30 dollar claim would hardly be worth it. I'm actually kinda jealous that the "finicky" extra  board is ace now, and totally scratching my head..... which for me, adds further speculation to the heatsink....       tunung suite?
You da man Cypher!
donator
Activity: 1218
Merit: 1079
Gerald Davis
December 06, 2013, 01:43:19 PM
So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?
legendary
Activity: 1442
Merit: 1001
December 06, 2013, 01:41:44 PM
question

november jupiter with case on or case off
runs better???/

I dunno - I'm waiting for UPS as we speak. Hopefully I know the answer soon.  Grin
legendary
Activity: 966
Merit: 1000
December 06, 2013, 01:39:23 PM
I tried forcing the pipes by hand to allign so they make a flat surface, but they are not moving and I am afraid that if I apply too much force I can do even more damage.
I might get a small hammer, put a piece of rubber or other cushioning material and hit the end of the piper on the top of the cooler downwards.

That's a precision machined surface.  You will never be able to get it flat enough by hand.  Just buy a new cooler, and hopefully, get KnC to reimburse you for the damaged one.


You could take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat again for you.

Or, as others have suggested, just order a replacement.
legendary
Activity: 2408
Merit: 1004
December 06, 2013, 01:38:18 PM
question

november jupiter with case on or case off
runs better???/
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
December 06, 2013, 01:30:49 PM
Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.

Yes, I certainly agree with a new cooler.  My suggestion was meant as a temp/bridging solution.
hero member
Activity: 812
Merit: 502
December 06, 2013, 01:09:13 PM
Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.
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