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Topic: Water cooling? (Read 2213 times)

sr. member
Activity: 280
Merit: 250
Sometimes man, just sometimes.....
June 10, 2013, 04:12:22 PM
#24
I bought a kit that came with whatever blue coolant, works just fine.  Watercooling a 5870 and 5830 with it with a dual 120mm radiator, keeps them about 40 or so, depending on my ambient heat.  I used 1/2" OD 3/8" ID primoflex tubing with the regular fittings, no compression.

I used a kill coil.  Way less fuss than having to worry about oil or drops of whatever.  Just stick it in the reservoir and call it a day.

Those coils are only for preventing biological growth, like algae, in the loop.  It doesn't prevent corrosion.  If you don't have differing metals in your loop, you shouldn't have to worry too much about corrosion.

I only have a tiny bit of ethylene gycol in my loop to lower viscosity of the water.  (Helps purge out air bubbles.)

Very true.  The solution that comes with the kit has the anti-corrosion in it.  If you use distilled water then yes you will need something for that.
newbie
Activity: 37
Merit: 0
June 10, 2013, 04:09:45 PM
#23
I bought a kit that came with whatever blue coolant, works just fine.  Watercooling a 5870 and 5830 with it with a dual 120mm radiator, keeps them about 40 or so, depending on my ambient heat.  I used 1/2" OD 3/8" ID primoflex tubing with the regular fittings, no compression.

I used a kill coil.  Way less fuss than having to worry about oil or drops of whatever.  Just stick it in the reservoir and call it a day.

Those coils are only for preventing biological growth, like algae, in the loop.  It doesn't prevent corrosion.  If you don't have differing metals in your loop, you shouldn't have to worry too much about corrosion.

I only have a tiny bit of ethylene gycol in my loop to lower viscosity of the water.  (Helps purge out air bubbles.)
sr. member
Activity: 280
Merit: 250
Sometimes man, just sometimes.....
June 10, 2013, 03:55:56 PM
#22
I bought a kit that came with whatever blue coolant, works just fine.  Watercooling a 5870 and 5830 with it with a dual 120mm radiator, keeps them about 40 or so, depending on my ambient heat.  I used 1/2" OD 3/8" ID primoflex tubing with the regular fittings, no compression.

I used a kill coil.  Way less fuss than having to worry about oil or drops of whatever.  Just stick it in the reservoir and call it a day.
hero member
Activity: 574
Merit: 523
June 10, 2013, 03:03:21 PM
#21
@Marduk thanks, I see now.
newbie
Activity: 37
Merit: 0
June 10, 2013, 11:34:48 AM
#20

It is called galvanic corrosion and occurs frequently in shitty kits that mix metals (or cheap china made 'copper'), a single dissimilar metal is enough to kick it off...

Does combination of aluminium and copper parts make trouble? E.g. copper water blocks and some automotive aluminium radiator?

Thanks.

Mixing different metals in the same loop will accelerate galvanic corrosion.  Copper and aluminum are particularly bad together unless you use some sort of anti-corrosive agent such as anti-freeze (ethylene gycol) mixed into the water.

Look at the chart at the end of this wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion.  The higher the difference in the Anodic index of metals, the faster that corrosion will occur when those metals are in contact with each other.  This also occurs when the metals are connected by a water path as well.  This is unless you use an anti-corrosive in the water like I mentioned above.
hero member
Activity: 574
Merit: 523
June 10, 2013, 07:18:37 AM
#19

It is called galvanic corrosion and occurs frequently in shitty kits that mix metals (or cheap china made 'copper'), a single dissimilar metal is enough to kick it off...

Does combination of aluminium and copper parts make trouble? E.g. copper water blocks and some automotive aluminium radiator?

Thanks.
legendary
Activity: 868
Merit: 1000
ADT developer
June 07, 2013, 04:05:01 AM
#18
i just use 99% distald water 1% antyfreez to stop crotion/ watercoing bad have been using the same water sor 3 years  now
sr. member
Activity: 406
Merit: 250
June 06, 2013, 11:55:14 PM
#17
I hear unicorn blood works best.
sr. member
Activity: 378
Merit: 250
June 06, 2013, 11:36:57 PM
#16
use Fluorinert

No, use gasoline for best results  Grin
hero member
Activity: 546
Merit: 500
June 06, 2013, 09:56:25 PM
#15
use Fluorinert
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
June 06, 2013, 05:45:05 PM
#14
Why not just use mineral oil? I would feel alot safer with mineral oil circulating in my computer than water.

Mineral oil is not often used because it is not a very good liquid for use of heat transfer. I believe it's 6 or so linear times worse than water at absorbing heat from the CPU and taking it out and away into the radiator!

Mercury is the polar opposite of this, but it would also royally screw you up if a drop of it falls out (perfect short-circuit), as well as possibly become toxic if mercury vapor forms for any reason. (Liquid mercury can not be readily absorbed by the body.)

One potentially useful substitute to water in this application may be decompressed water vapor, this is what is inside of the heat-pipes used in laptops and high-end CPU coolers as well as most of the heatsinks in our GPU's. Decompressed water vapor is inside the tube, and by some magic of physics I haven't studied, it effectively equalizes heat from one side of the tube to the other side.

Mineral oil is ill suited to be pushed around inside tubes or "pumped" anywhere. The correct way to cool with mineral oil doesn't involve any sort of radiator at all. You simply submerge your equipment inside a container (like a barrel) and then use fans to circulate the oil between your tank (which is where the equipment is) and your radiator (which is comparatively shallow but hold 3x the volume of the tank). Larger surface area of the shallow end means quicker cooling and fan speed controls flow. It's stupidly simple, and if you do it right your need any sort of filters.





sr. member
Activity: 406
Merit: 250
June 05, 2013, 11:51:26 PM
#13
Why not just use mineral oil? I would feel alot safer with mineral oil circulating in my computer than water.

Mineral oil is not often used because it is not a very good liquid for use of heat transfer. I believe it's 6 or so linear times worse than water at absorbing heat from the CPU and taking it out and away into the radiator!

Mercury is the polar opposite of this, but it would also royally screw you up if a drop of it falls out (perfect short-circuit), as well as possibly become toxic if mercury vapor forms for any reason. (Liquid mercury can not be readily absorbed by the body.)

One potentially useful substitute to water in this application may be decompressed water vapor, this is what is inside of the heat-pipes used in laptops and high-end CPU coolers as well as most of the heatsinks in our GPU's. Decompressed water vapor is inside the tube, and by some magic of physics I haven't studied, it effectively equalizes heat from one side of the tube to the other side.
full member
Activity: 148
Merit: 102
June 05, 2013, 10:40:25 PM
#12
I use 7/16" ID Masterkleer tubing on 1/2" barbs and don't need any type of clamps or fittings at all. You need to soak the end of the tube in boiling water, then fit it on. It will not come off after that. If you need to take it off, you have to cut it.

After messing around with fancy fittings, clamps etc, I found this to be best. Just get a ton of the cheap stuff and use all new anytime you have to change something out.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
June 05, 2013, 08:06:28 PM
#11
Why not just use mineral oil? I would feel alot safer with mineral oil circulating in my computer than water.

Most "watercooling" pumps are not up to the job of shifting the oil around due to the viscosity.
I have seen someone do it, but they used a pump from something else that was intended to pump oil.

For mineral oil you generally don't use a pump at all. Just submerged fans to move the oil around.


sr. member
Activity: 399
Merit: 250
June 05, 2013, 05:59:21 PM
#10
I'd REALLY like to do one with liquid Gallium.... with a graphite assembly cooling plate..

Mercury would be too much of a problem if you had a leak.......
member
Activity: 91
Merit: 10
June 05, 2013, 02:36:10 PM
#9
Also, remember the physics, specific heat capacity of mineral oil is what? About half of that of water, if I am not mistaken…
legendary
Activity: 868
Merit: 1000
ADT developer
June 05, 2013, 06:03:28 AM
#8
i use 1/2" id 3/4" od with copper barbs andplastic hose clips all works fine i have been usingit for4 years (ihave 1% antyfreez stopes galvonic crosion
full member
Activity: 134
Merit: 100
June 05, 2013, 05:51:10 AM
#7
Why not just use mineral oil? I would feel alot safer with mineral oil circulating in my computer than water.

Most "watercooling" pumps are not up to the job of shifting the oil around due to the viscosity.
I have seen someone do it, but they used a pump from something else that was intended to pump oil.
sr. member
Activity: 420
Merit: 250
June 05, 2013, 01:16:48 AM
#6
Why not just use mineral oil? I would feel alot safer with mineral oil circulating in my computer than water.
sr. member
Activity: 399
Merit: 250
June 04, 2013, 01:46:16 AM
#5
Also I believe you watercool with Distilled Water. Leaks are bad yes but Distilled water inst a conductor until it becomes dirty?

Absolutely 100% PURE water with ZERO contaminants and NO gasses is actually an insulator.(good luck on getting it outside of a specially constructed laboratory)

But no... that does not include distilled water... (actually you would be frightened at the amount of shite in "distilled water" non-laboratory grade)

You use distilled water to reduce galvanic corrosion & oxides forming in the tubes, but good luck on it staying 'distilled'.

A minute layer of oxide reduces heat transfer efficiency. (see furry kettle)


Quote
You should stick to a similar metal across all blocks in the system or you run a risk of severe corrosion as aluminum and copper react badly

It is called galvanic corrosion and occurs frequently in shitty kits that mix metals (or cheap china made 'copper'), a single dissimilar metal is enough to kick it off...
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