Topic: XBTec Pacific V3 3.2Th, 0.8W/Gh (Read 11717 times)

pm sent ty sir

Looks like a Prisma 1.0 board to me. Send me a PM if you are interested in an adapter.

so have any of you guys got the correct adapters so i connect these boards to a Pi.

How reliable are these boards ? wasnt there a recall due to them not performing well or at my boards at v1.2 a good revision ?

cheers

Ok so here are the pictures,



http://imgur.com/itfRNSx,CVpGvzO#0

so do you guys think i could use an cp2102 adapter and a pi with them or will i need a special adapter ? if so how much and where can i buy one.

were these boards unstable ? having replaced the PSU with a decent one and having them run in an air conditioned room (17oc) they would be very unstable, and require a reboot every couple of hours.

thanks for all the help, would really like to make these damn things work properly. possibly going to look at some submersion cooling too.. IF i can get them running stable.

i guess firstly i need to check the boards to see if they do have numbers written on the top right of them, are they any other identifying features i should be looking for ?

ill get the screwdriver out and take some pics of a board later today.

if ,and at this point its a big if,  they are prisma boards how much would you want for a correct adapter ?

thanks

anthony

I don't think a standard cp2102 adapter works with prisma boards. I have a few ASICMINER adapters left over, and I think sidehack/novak still have some of their custom made adapters available.

Try google cp2102.

thanks for the info ill take a look tomorrow.

on the controller page if i click on test status i see the boards are v1.47 ?

ill look at the physical boards too see what i can see tomorrow.

could you link a uart adapter please ? would be very usefull.


thanks alot for your assistance.

If I remember correctly, these are just Prisma 1.0 boards in a rack-mountable enclosure. If that's the case, you should be able to use a uart adapter and  mine off an rpi. See if there is a version number on the top right of your hashing boards. Should be 1.0,1.1,1.2 or something like that...

I stupidly bought 2 of these machines earlier this year.

Using Ghash.io pool.

THey will hash for a little while at 3th (ish) but after a random amount of time most of the boards will disappear from the status screen and the overall rate will be in the hundreds of ghs. Reboot and they work again for a while. I contacted them and they said the problem was the controllers and they sent me out two more.

The controllers are block eruptor controllers. BE200 Jet Stratum Miner V 5.47

So they sat in my garage powered down paper weights, Untill i decided to try again. I had thought perhaps its the PSU in the machines, so I have used an IBM bladecenter 2880W PSU. Same results.

Has anybody had any luck with these machines ?

Is it possible to run them from a Raspberry PI instead ? Im guessing this would need some kind of adapter.

I wish id never bought the damn machines and it will be a cold day in hell before I ever use them again.

changing frequency has no effect they will has just as (well?) at 240 or 280mhz.

I have read its possible to upgrade the firmware on the block eruptor controller units ? can anyone point me in the right direction please ?

The machines are a server room with proper aircon. Temp is not an issue.

thanks

I also tried to contact them but they don't reply.

This company is a scam. +1

This company is a scam.

Its good that received my device back in Dec 2014.

First of all the device isn't hashing as announced, its real hashrate is 2-2,8TH depending on conditions.

I made a big examination of its work on different pools and on different clock speed but it only proved that it isn't hashing properly due to problems with soft. First they replied me they know about this problem and will sent me soft update but it never happened. But I thought it isn't the biggest issue and continued using the expensive device until in February 2015 troubles with one of it's two PSU's started. First I couldnt extract it from the miner body and it was really not fun. The guy that helped me to buy this miner and earned his 100$, had to buy me a new PSU from his earnings, bcs official support ignored his baggings to provide a warranty support for bad PSU.

Next thing I Have to say about The engineers who constructed this massive thing are ass-handed "engineers" who didn't even made simple analysis of hot wind extraction. The vents from PSU's blow out the hot wind just in direction where the other vents take the outside air to cool the blades. I rotated the PSU vents to blow in one direction with others and it solved some overheat issues. After I sold this unit I am very happy and post my true review.

The best thing in it was the cool logo of xbtec company on the upside of miner Pity it will newer ROI.

Finally another friend of mine has the same device, and he is unable to buy the controller for his unit for several month bcs they don't respond any more to letters. So now he has a bricked unit that hashed not stable for 2-3 month and was bought for 1850 usd.

Peeps don't fall for these new made companies and their super-duper solutions - most of them are very close to scammers.
Trust only well known world class companies that pay real engineers to construct their mining equipment.

Attention is scammers - http://www.xbtec.io/products http://www.xbtec.ru/

list of scam
http://ethereum.today/btccloud

If you have a lot of extra time and money advice has addressed this company!

I guarantee you a lot of empty promises to send the goods paid tomorrow and again tomorrow and so 35 days

My first purchase(3.2 th 1850 Usd)  I waited 30 days after payment ,second purchase waited 35 days
had no patience, asked to return money back
And again the same song
Tomorrow we will have done everything tomorrow 45 days

Very unpleasant surprise was the first purchase ......miner that I bought from them was rejected, 1 of 8 cards did not work, I promised to indemnify and cheated......

I too debated this with dogie a while ago. He is based in the U.K so has little first hand knowledge. He argued that most have no idea and the standard was 110v. The best way to describe the layout in the U.S is split phase 220. ie. 110 each split phase. (source, electrical/electronics engineer in the U.K, Australia and the U.S). As long as we aren't talking about 3 phase (which is becoming more common around the world in domestic premises), most single phase power supplies will work happily at home. I say most as some still have the tendency to produce that magical smoke at near full loads.

Just an FYI all homes in the USA are 240V.  Every house has a two single phase 120v drops from the grid, if both wired to a plug you get 240v from the 180 degree offset on the phase, if you only use one you get 120V and the other leg gets wired to ground/nuetral.

I am sure you might be able to find a house that was built when Tesla and Edison were still alive and it might be 120v, but for 99% of the home grid upgrades have given everyone 240V in their homes.

Very easy to change a 120v plug to 240v move the nuetral to the other hot leg with a 2 pole brealer and change the plug on the end to a 240V prong and presto 240V in the USA at your house. 

Hi,
At 260 MHz device has same real output as at 280 or 290 or 300MHz.
Means When I make the frequency higher then 260mhz - the device doesn't go up in real performance - only the expected performance goes up.

Now testing the device on ghash and will post here my experience after 24 hours.
Also will clock the device up to 280mhz so can compare shots from be controller and pool.

My original comment [2 months ago] was in reply to a user saying that 2500W was not possible to run at home. I replied, mentioning that the US isn't the only county in the world and not everyone in the world has 110V 20A [16A] circuits. Ie, plenty of people could still run 2500W at home. I'm also not seeing how you can argue that

110V 20A (16A 24/7) = 1760W isn't worse than
240V 32A (36A 24/7) = 8640W

to be sure you won't miss my reply because of a d*** :

XBTEC talked about a 280Mhz frequency and I see 280 Mhz on their screenshots. I see that yours is at 260 mhz. Coincidence ?