Surfing is not the easiest sport out there and to achieve anything there it is important to have both strong physical and mental health. If past experience is any guide, enjoying the waves without arms and legs is possible, however, bad mental state can ruin the fun.
Every surfer has to face a whole plethora of psychological traps when faring into the ocean that can either hinder their progress or kill the interest in surfing entirely.
>Fear. It can both drive or hinder progress. It really depends on the individual – for some people the fear drives to overcome and face the challenge the waves present, for others it prevents them from leaving their comfort zone, hindering their progress. Expanding the comfort zone should be done gradually. It is always better to have a more experienced surfer by your side in that case.
> Aggression. Aggresion prevents a surfer from focusing and deal with the wave. The source of aggression can become external factors – broken waves, distracting crowds, etc. In this case it is vital to realize that changing the situation is impossible, and the only right path is to adapt and calm down.
> Frustration. It is easy to delude oneself into thinking that surfing is nice and easy after looking at pictures of surfers online. This impression breeds inflated expectations in beginner surfers who turn out to be unprepared for frequent bails and failures. There is only one recipe: education – informational articles, video lessons, instructors’ guidance.
> Stagnation. If at some point a surfer begins to think he has stopped growing and the ocean is no longer bringing him the joy it used to, he just needs to take a break. Soon he’ll be aching to get back to the sea.
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