Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 20. (Read 129130 times)

If you are still under the warranty, the Pump may be replaced for you.  If it is out of the warranty, the replacement pump is $60 shipping included. (replacement pump comes with 30-days replacement warranty only)

or these would do the job as well.

There is a replacement Pump is available for purchase $60 in usa to include the shipping or you can source a similar item from ebay such as below. (our pump will come with 30-days replacement)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/500L-H-10W-DC-12V-Water-Cooling-DC-Pump-Tank-250ML-F-pc-CPU-CO2-Water-Cooled-/111241824048?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e6878730

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381066536924?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

My second pump just went out. I wonder if the replacement pumps from eBay are better quality.

Hmm. I don't think my temps are an issue as they are all usually at or below 42. I have the radiator and fans sitting outside in sub zero temps.

My experience today and generally since I added the second C1, is that good coolant circulation and cooling make a difference.  The C1 #2 getting cooled by a car AC condenser with 5 fans is much better behaved than the 1st C1 with a stock radiator and pump.  My second pump should be usable by tomorrow and will go back in the circuit - would have been sooner if I could find my Devcon 5 minute epoxy.  The radiator from China I bought on Ebay arrived in Atlanta earlier this evening.  If it gets to my local post office by tomorrow, great.  I'll add it in series with the stock radiator on C1 #1 which should already be able to tolerate the 243.75M/0675 again once the second pump is put back.

So perhaps your system could improve with better circulation or by using distilled water instead of coolant.  Coolants, like auto antifreeze, only move half the heat that pure water can.

Wow. I can't run any of mine at that low voltage at almost full blast. You got good dies in that C1. 

Best I can get to that speed reliably is 071. Even 070 sometimes makes some 'o's disappear.

To get more efficiency a week or so ago I knocked the C1's down to 243.75M/0675

No, no, I did recall, but I was wrong, didn't jot the numbers down before changing, but thought the original settings on the C1's had been 250M/0750 but I was mistaken.  Ran at that for a little while then searched and found 250M/075 to be the default on these C1's.

As I said, to get more efficiency a week or so ago I knocked the C1's down to 243.75M/0675 so the two would be drawing about 9.5amps each on a 20 amp circuit tho they had been running 10a each for a while and the breaker wasn't warm to the touch.  Hot summer days I needed to leave the breaker box door open so a living room breaker didn't trip with the AC on - later added two 15 amp lines and that's no longer an issue.  So one can easily tell if a breaker is prone to trip as it will be warm.

For some reason, perhaps because of the humidity, after switching back to a single pump driving water thru two C1's, the original C1 was coming up x's.  I jumped to the conclusion it was due to having added a slightly restrictive PVC barb but taking that out didn't correct the x's.  The x's were corrected when that miner was put back to its original settings of 250M/0725.  Now the two miners draw 10a and 9.5a, breaker cool.

When my S5 arrives, a circuit I had put in for my living room treadmill will be disconnected and a new temporary 15 amp line will be run to the back room.

The second C1 is still running at 243.75/0675 and gets 986.66GH/s(avg).
 

Any idea what this means one of my c1's is showing the status one asic chain smaller it has all "ooooooo oooooooo" but is in a smaller font size then other 3.

You're running at 0675v still at full blast?

Spoke too soon.  Back up, and x's are appearing in the one C1 again.    Wonder if it's related to the f=243.75M/0675V I'm running for efficiency.
--------------------

Okay, up 55s at normal power and frequency and no x's............1m34secs and still okay...............2min11sec 1,019 GH/s(avg) and no x's........3min15sec and all okay

Odd.  It's happier at full power.

And running with a pump/fans power supply divorced from the miners, it's easy to shut down the miners power and forget to shut down the pump which leads to a bit of a mess once a hose is separated.

I should note that it's raining here and as many have observed high humidity doesn't afford as much cooling.

Okay, I originally ran the two C1's from the one stock pump no problem.  Then I added the second pump.  Ran great until I tapped the new pump to get an air bubble to the top and started a leak in the seam of its tank. 

Now back to running the two C1's from the one pump but am getting x's from the original C1.  The difference?  I had to add a piece of tubing when I added the second pump.   The metal barbs have a wide port and don't restrict flow.  This time I spliced the inflow and outflow of the pump taken out with a straight thru PVC with barbs.  Problem is the PVC straight through with barbs has a restrictive opening about equal to what one would find on the air hose disconnects that I previously avoided.

So, just restarted and after 5 minutes got an x again and more will appear.

The second C1 which sees water cooled in the automobile AC condenser has always gotten cooler water than the first C1 which gets its water from the stock radiator.  Even with the slower water flow due to the restrictive PVC, C2 shows no x's.  Up 7 minutes and six x's on the first C1.

I'll now shut down and take the PVC out putting the hose to the condenser instead of the PVC.  If after I purge air again the original C1 runs with no x's then those x's were due entirely to the more narrow port of the PVC barb.  PVC barbs by design are thicker walled than the metal barbs.

I'll venture a guess...not all the air was flushed; it seemed full; remaining air expanded as it heated; coolant came out the port (if you had left it open to vent); coolant started boiling in the heatsink.

One of the advantages of running the pump(s) from a divorced 12v supply is that one can more easily run the pumps with the miner(s) shut down.  Running the pumps with the miners shut down is great for filling the system (e.g. suction and return into a gallon of distilled water) or just for purging.

Just go back and read all about this issue. I had the same exact problem. Bubbles, gas, had to leave the fill cap open. White film material inside of the loop from somewhere....who knows. Only once I replaced the pump and used a different coolant then that crap Ironside I had clean loops %100 of the time. I used Feser One coolany with silver kill coils in my out and in my incoming lines. I had multiple pictures also back in this thread. "TheDreamer" now has my C1's and I suspect the loops are still clean and free of debris? I spend an extra $150+ on extra coolant and better pumps because of that problem. It was a big learning curve for me, but if I ever find myself with another water cooled miner, I'll know what to do. If you take your pump apart you'll see that white film covering everything in your pump. You can try to take the pump apart and clean it really good, but once you get to that stage you are better off flushing everything out and replacing the pump and coolant.

I also have a board that stopped working just as this problem came up. It will short the power supply. I'm not quite what's going on. It seems like these miners are just falling apart right as the warranty period expired.

!?! Just tapped this pump tank to bring a bubble to the top and the glue between the tank and bottom started leaking.  So, the two C1's down while I remove the pump and glue.  Meanwhile the C1's will go back up with 1 pump.

I flushed the loop yesterday and I woke up today to the pump squirting coolant out of the reservoir.

How long does it take to accumulate? Also you might post pictures.

I'm having a major issue with corrosion  with my miners. I have the stock syscooling kits and they are producing gas and making the coolant smell. There are white flakes of stuff that accumulate in the loop as well.

It's higher but i still love: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381066536924

It's been running for months on both I bought and if you are in US they ship within US so quicker shipping.  Is quicker then the syscooling one that comes with it and has a bigger reservoir.

That's the syscooling SC-300T pump you bought. It has 100 l/ph less pumping power then the stock model.  That one alone may not push enough through in time if cooling two rigs.