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Topic: Antminer S9 - How to power in Canada? - page 2. (Read 30666 times)

newbie
Activity: 74
Merit: 0
July 01, 2016, 08:58:31 PM
#74
So I was just doing some browsing...
If I went with the APW3-12-1600-B2 on 220V to power an S9... How many would I need?
One has 5 6pin connectors. So you need two of those PSUs to power one S9 right?

Also I got confused,, the site said "Separate power supply to control board: there is one additional 6pin PCI-e connector on the IO board which must be connected to the PSU to get power.".
So does that mean you need a third PSU just for the board???
Or do you just put your one left over cable into it?


What powersupply would you recommend? (Preferably under $250)
I assume you can provide 240 volts
links coming  
okay  three people  can help :

 bitmaintech  >>>  https://www.bitmaintech.com/productDetail.htm?pid=000201505040743496917U7kGsCm0694

finksy  >>    https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/ibm-dps-4kw-psu-dual-dps-2000bb-breakout-boards-and-packages-1308296    >>>>  he is in Canada  --- I have his gear it is good

optimizer ---- https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/2000w-power-breakout-board-dps2000bb-to-pc-ie-x12-1373092 >>>> he is in California -- I have his gear it is good I am still testing it

First of all, thanks for the links.

Secondly,
Does it have to be 240V, or is 220V enough? Cause I see lots of people saying 220V and many others saying 240V.
And if I went with the bitmain, I would need 2 of them to power 1 miner right?
legendary
Activity: 4256
Merit: 8551
'The right to privacy matters'
July 01, 2016, 08:03:02 PM
#73
So I was just doing some browsing...
If I went with the APW3-12-1600-B2 on 220V to power an S9... How many would I need?
One has 5 6pin connectors. So you need two of those PSUs to power one S9 right?

Also I got confused,, the site said "Separate power supply to control board: there is one additional 6pin PCI-e connector on the IO board which must be connected to the PSU to get power.".
So does that mean you need a third PSU just for the board???
Or do you just put your one left over cable into it?


What powersupply would you recommend? (Preferably under $250)
I assume you can provide 240 volts
links coming  
okay  three people  can help :

 bitmaintech  >>>  https://www.bitmaintech.com/productDetail.htm?pid=000201505040743496917U7kGsCm0694

finksy  >>    https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/ibm-dps-4kw-psu-dual-dps-2000bb-breakout-boards-and-packages-1308296    >>>>  he is in Canada  --- I have his gear it is good

optimizer ---- https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/2000w-power-breakout-board-dps2000bb-to-pc-ie-x12-1373092 >>>> he is in California -- I have his gear it is good I am still testing it
newbie
Activity: 74
Merit: 0
July 01, 2016, 07:25:08 PM
#72
So I was just doing some browsing...
If I went with the APW3-12-1600-B2 on 220V to power an S9... How many would I need?
One has 5 6pin connectors. So you need two of those PSUs to power one S9 right?

Also I got confused,, the site said "Separate power supply to control board: there is one additional 6pin PCI-e connector on the IO board which must be connected to the PSU to get power.".
So does that mean you need a third PSU just for the board???
Or do you just put your one left over cable into it?


What powersupply would you recommend? (Preferably under $250)
E
full member
Activity: 234
Merit: 100
June 15, 2016, 10:38:42 PM
#71
*shameless plug*

Another option for powering many units with limited panel space is going with a 240V (double breaker) 50A breaker, with appropriate cable run to a PDU and 4x 2880W PSU's.  You could run 7x B3 S9's by code, possibly 8 in practice from that one circuit and not worry about powering on PSU's in the right order.  


It's not a plug unless you point out your signature links Wink Which I endorse as a good solution, btw.

4*2880 or 6*2000 is my normal granularity as well, but I usually do a 60A breaker w/ 6GA supply lines - 4x2880 on a 50A breaker, even only running 7x Batch 3 S9s, could violate code if the voltage is much below 240V:

On a DPS-2880 the at-the-wall will be closer to 1300 than 1275, and closer to 1350 once the 2880 fans are included;

7*1350 = 9.45kW
220V * 50A = 11kW;
9.45/11 = 86%

With the cost differential so low for 50A/8GA vs 60A/6GA the latter has been my preference.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
June 15, 2016, 10:26:31 PM
#70
I've got some 40A 208V breakers powering 5x S7 off 2880s and dual Dell 750s in hosting.
legendary
Activity: 1022
Merit: 1003
June 15, 2016, 07:54:13 PM
#69
*shameless plug*

Another option for powering many units with limited panel space is going with a 240V (double breaker) 50A breaker, with appropriate cable run to a PDU and 4x 2880W PSU's.  You could run 7x B3 S9's by code, possibly 8 in practice from that one circuit and not worry about powering on PSU's in the right order. 

member
Activity: 63
Merit: 10
Mining away one KWh at a time
June 14, 2016, 11:59:31 PM
#68
ahh yeah i forgot were talking s9 lol i been thinking s5, my bad

doh

it would still get power at the exact time as the remaining pci-e cables from the same supply, that also supply the hash board

like i said it puts a fork in a warrantied wachine
been so used to buying used stuff ..no waranty
 
reminds self to check topic when i think of a solution next time before commenting
E
full member
Activity: 234
Merit: 100
June 14, 2016, 11:52:40 PM
#67
no it definately does get the supply from the hash board using the small ribbon cable to the one board

remember the only connections from the psu are to the hash boards

they either step it down to 3.3v and 5v on each hash board or the bbb does it after it(12v) gets to the hashboard then to the bbb


There is a separate PCIe power socket on the fan/control breakout board that hosts the controller board.
member
Activity: 63
Merit: 10
Mining away one KWh at a time
June 14, 2016, 11:43:06 PM
#66
no it definately does get the supply from the hash board using the small ribbon cable to the one board

remember the only connections from the psu are to the hash boards

they either step it down to 3.3v and 5v on each hash board or the bbb does it after it(12v) gets to the hashboard then to the bbb

from what i can see the top section opposite end of the small ribbon by the antminer board rev beside the pci-e plug is the voltage regulator step down circuit that provides the small ribbon the bbb.s power or host shield board , could be for the board itself for temp sensor power
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
June 14, 2016, 11:40:37 PM
#65
I'm pretty sure the controller doesn't get power from the hashboards. The peripheral circuits of the hashboards (like the PIC and DPOT that set the string voltage) actually draw power from the controller, not the other way around. Worst case with a PSU common to hashboards and controller is they get powered at the same time.
member
Activity: 63
Merit: 10
Mining away one KWh at a time
June 14, 2016, 11:35:28 PM
#64
If you use the controller PSU to kick on the secondary, that violates Bitmain's recommendation to have the controller PSU always come on last. You'd have to momentary turn on the secondary PSU bypassing your mains switch, then let the controller PSU latch it on. If you want to play by Bitmain's recommendation anyway, so it's still the same problem noted in the first page comments.

ahh that puts a fork in under warranty machines i guess
but bogus in my book since the controller gets it power from the hash board first thats connected to the supply so in all fairness the one boards powered before it anyway

it only takes milliseconds for the ssr to turn on anyway ... to the naked eye they come on at the same time
i doubt the board has time to even boot yet to poll the hash boards
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
June 14, 2016, 11:16:39 PM
#63
If you use the controller PSU to kick on the secondary, that violates Bitmain's recommendation to have the controller PSU always come on last. You'd have to momentary turn on the secondary PSU bypassing your mains switch, then let the controller PSU latch it on. If you want to play by Bitmain's recommendation anyway, so it's still the same problem noted in the first page comments.
newbie
Activity: 2
Merit: 0
June 14, 2016, 11:12:17 PM
#62
Ok I will bet you do have at least one or two 220 outlets in your Canadian home.

If you have an electric oven it's 220 if you have a larger window Ac unit it's possibly 220 your electric water heater is also 220 but that one is most likely hard wired and if you have a electric washer and dryer they also are 220. Now all you have to do is go to Home Depot and get a 220 plug and make a plug that will fit into your existing 220 outlets.

Be careful 220 is very dangerous that's why we use 110 in America only half of us would still be alive if we used 220, no I'm not calling Americans dumb let's call it curiously stupid! ("Hey hold my beer and watch this") famous red neck last words...
   
Antminer S9 - How to power in Canada?
June 06, 2016, 08:20:56 PM
Reply with quote  #1
So the new, amazing Antminer S9 just came out... And I really want to buy it!
But the S9 needs to be powered at 1375W, and with 9 PCI-e connectors (3/board).
The recommended power supply is the APW3.
The APW3 needs over 220V to run, but I live in Canada, and in Canada there is only 110V outlets.
Currently I'm running 2 S5 antminers on one EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2, which has just the right number of connectors, which is 8.
So now I'm either looking for a PSU that can do 1600W and has 9 PCI-e connectors and hope it will be enough,
could use 2 PSUs to power one miner,
or get a 110V -> 220V transformer and hope it doesn't blow any boards or circuits.

Please help me out you wonderful people Smiley
member
Activity: 63
Merit: 10
Mining away one KWh at a time
June 14, 2016, 11:00:16 PM
#61
something on running two server supplies at lower wattage to run one miners boards separately as discussed earlier on
If you run an ssr relay from pin 50(gnd) and 52(3.3v)or 54(5v) of the bbb to switch the second supply on when the controllers powered
should you loose power to the controller it will shut down the second supply too  or the second supply can fail and the controllers supply will still keep working as normal (you will still hash on the controllers supply board in this scenario)

no more hashing while the fans are dead




for ac cords
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272248158722

for server supply on/off pin jumpers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351340978967
full member
Activity: 140
Merit: 100
I mine because math
June 14, 2016, 12:44:13 PM
#60
Yes you *should* get a permit in order to add a sub-panel, I have no idea what the fines may be for doing without as you will need (if I'm not mistaken) full electrical drawings by a Master (or at least Journeyman) electrician which can cost quite a bit. Based on experiences of other people I have talked to, the worst they will do is force you to tear out the additions.

The permit itself should only run you a hundred bucks, not including the planning and blueprint work which will be significant. Keep in mind this is issued by your Municipal Government, not the utility provider.


Quoted from Office of Fire Commissioner of Manitoba website: http://www.firecomm.gov.mb.ca/codes_forms.html


Quote
Building and/or Plumbing Permits are also required for building additions, alterations and renovations. Most municipal building by-laws do not normally require a Building Permit for renovations that do not exceed $5,000.00 construction value provided there is "no structural or life safety changes" to the building. To be sure of the requirements for a Building Permit contact your local building department, also known as an Authority Having Jurisdiction.


Based on this it sounds like you're better off than me, regulations are a bit stricter here. I wouldn't worry overly about doing the work, though I'm certainly not a contractor.

Modifying electrical so long as there is one layer of protection between the work and your meter (Your main breaker at your panel is more than sufficient) is not illegal, I took the risk on just making the changes as there's realistically only a small chance it could become an issue if I do a large contractor reno, or if I sell the house. Even in these circumstances I may be able to get the work permitted later so long as it can be inspected.

If for any reason you need to change the main panel, (assuming there's no shutoff between the panel and meter, which would unusual in residential) you're SOL and will need a permit without exception.
newbie
Activity: 74
Merit: 0
June 14, 2016, 11:52:42 AM
#59
We do already have a cable pulled that we got from a friend, so all I need now is just a panel and breakers. Panels cost about $50-150 on Amazon, and 220V breakers are usually $10-25 each.
So I also heard that here (In Canada Manitoba), you need to get a permit from your power company for getting a sub-panel installed. Does anyone have any experience with that? How hard is it to get a permit, and how much did it cost you?
member
Activity: 63
Merit: 10
Mining away one KWh at a time
June 13, 2016, 09:10:29 PM
#58
Damnn that's pricey!
My neighbor is an electrician. I would get him to do it.

yeah id say so too, buy used at demolition reseller shops such has habitat restore
I picked up a fully populated 100a breaker mains panel for $70 on kijiji
, the outlets and wiring and steel tubing were also reclaimed and free
i have an ats switch installed that cost $50 thats between my solar setup  inverter and the 220v mains from the house to my panel
my whole solar setup, and ac hardware cost less then $2000 and i can power everything on solar for 4 hours, my next steps to buy more agm batteries to get more reserve power

id say i spent less than $300 to rig up a whole panel as far as the ac side goes , since the solar was close to $1800 and thats CAD too
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
June 13, 2016, 08:51:11 PM
#57
I'm perched happily in Missouri, US where a dollar goes about 7% further than a lot of other states.

Also, if anyone needs any 20A single-pole breakers like would fit in a Square D Homeline panel, I got at least 20 of 'em I don't need. They sell here for around $3
legendary
Activity: 2294
Merit: 1182
Now the money is free, and so the people will be
June 13, 2016, 08:21:59 PM
#56
With your remaining 15amp breaker...well, either put one s7 on that (120v and underclocked), or swap it out for a 20amp 120v, and put it on that instead.  20amp 220v like sidehack said is mooore than enough for one s7.  its simple really, 120v*20a*(80%) = 1920watts.  You have 220v*20a*(80%)= 3520watts.  So yeah technically 2.5 antminer s7's per 20amp 220v breaker.  I dont know where you are sidehack, but in canada (i think thats where op is ?) breakers cost more, wire costs more and in general the cost of everything is higher (accessories, plugs, adaptors), even adjusted for exchange rate than in the us of A.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
June 12, 2016, 09:33:50 PM
#55
Glad I'm not the only one thought it was high. My 400A 3-phase run, 100 feet from the pole to the main distribution panel and from there 80 feet to the hosting sub-panels was only $4500 in materials, including 1400 feet of 250kcmil aluminum. Most of the rest was the new main panel plus three breakers at 150 or 200 amps. A simple 60A two-pole subpanel shouldn't have cost nearly a thousand bucks.
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