I gotta say both my chiller and the pump are at their limit. Water set value is 30 degree as to avoid condensation, but the chiller is any ways running 100% at this hot weather so setting a lower value would have no effect at all.
Topic: Avalon Water Cooling - page 3. (Read 13955 times)
I gotta say both my chiller and the pump are at their limit. Water set value is 30 degree as to avoid condensation, but the chiller is any ways running 100% at this hot weather so setting a lower value would have no effect at all.
avalon switched from a huge sludge of thermal goop(thread u linked) .. ..to the thermal sheet shown in ur picture?
I find it hard to believe that the foil makes little / no contact w/ the chips under the pressure of the screws. It would have to touch them... that thermal foil type stuff is squishy right? ...
Given that, Im sure its just the thermal effeciency working in ur favor of the MX-2 over the horrible effeciency of a thermal pad. =)
Post screenshot of clocks / temps / HW error after several hours of mining(webgui) .. that would be great =)
If its enough of a difference, I may attempt this.
I find it hard to believe that the foil makes little / no contact w/ the chips under the pressure of the screws. It would have to touch them... that thermal foil type stuff is squishy right? ...
Given that, Im sure its just the thermal effeciency working in ur favor of the MX-2 over the horrible effeciency of a thermal pad. =)
Post screenshot of clocks / temps / HW error after several hours of mining(webgui) .. that would be great =)
If its enough of a difference, I may attempt this.
Result: 10GH/s more in --avalon-auto mode (much less HW errors)
What clock rate and temps are you hitting with the thermal paste?
Inspired by this thread https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/avalon-recondition-212090 I decided to have a try to improve the resistance between the chips and the aluminium.
The cooling areas of the chips are a bit lower than the board surface and the used thermal conductive foil doesn't show any marks - so it doesn't have real contact.
I removed all my PCB's from the heat sinks once more and applied thermal compound.
That's more like it
I know, a little more wouldn't have hurt probably but I only got 3 syringes and wanted to finish that rig. At least 4g required for one board.
Result: 10GH/s more in --avalon-auto mode (much less HW errors)
The cooling areas of the chips are a bit lower than the board surface and the used thermal conductive foil doesn't show any marks - so it doesn't have real contact.
I removed all my PCB's from the heat sinks once more and applied thermal compound.
That's more like it
I know, a little more wouldn't have hurt probably but I only got 3 syringes and wanted to finish that rig. At least 4g required for one board.
Result: 10GH/s more in --avalon-auto mode (much less HW errors)
Any thoughts on running a refrigerant through the blocks?
Condensation. My enemy.
How about a dehumidifier for your balcony & dew (moisture) sensors in a few strategic places? I guess pretty pointless if you can't clock up for other reasons.
Any thoughts on running a refrigerant through the blocks?
Condensation. My enemy.
So you would need to both increase the voltage and increase the output current capacity is what you are saying? I'm not familiar with the Avalon stock design, so I wasn't sure if you could modify anything beyond the clock frequency
Soldering required for higher rates, and I am even not so sure if it can go much higher... who knows?
Are those smooth holes for the water channels with threads on the ends so you can mount the fittings/etc with the threads, or threaded all the way through?
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
They are smooth inside, you can see the detail "X" on the drawing. Yes, min 15mm of threads. Americans, be aware that this thread is straight, the fittings need a sealing!
As a conclusion of my design I would say it's over specified but totally does it's job. I am running with 30 degree cooling water but cannot clock my miners higher any ways because that would require a voltage modification. Also the step down power converters are at their limits.
It would totally be possible to produce a cheaper solution, maybe like somebody mentioned before a copper plate with soldered-on pipe. Also the surface smoothness of "Ra 1.6" is way smoother than the original heat sink and makes it expensive.
@Icoin: Your module looks like it only cools the ASIC's and not the voltage converters? Did somebody already build it and use it on an Avalon? I would be curious about other peoples experiences.
I don't feel that there is a market for selling the cooling elements. To much work is involved until you have a running solution, even if you buy the heat sinks. If you want to produce larger quantities a redesign would make sense. Maybe in a way of fixing a PCB on both sides.
The main advantage for me is clearly that the noise is much (really really much!) less and I can keep my rig on the balcony in a hot, humid and dusty environment without worrying too much.
Are those smooth holes for the water channels with threads on the ends so you can mount the fittings/etc with the threads, or threaded all the way through?
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
They are smooth inside, you can see the detail "X" on the drawing. Yes, min 15mm of threads. Americans, be aware that this thread is straight, the fittings need a sealing!
As a conclusion of my design I would say it's over specified but totally does it's job. I am running with 30 degree cooling water but cannot clock my miners higher any ways because that would require a voltage modification. Also the step down power converters are at their limits.
It would totally be possible to produce a cheaper solution, maybe like somebody mentioned before a copper plate with soldered-on pipe. Also the surface smoothness of "Ra 1.6" is way smoother than the original heat sink and makes it expensive.
@Icoin: Your module looks like it only cools the ASIC's and not the voltage converters? Did somebody already build it and use it on an Avalon? I would be curious about other peoples experiences.
I don't feel that there is a market for selling the cooling elements. To much work is involved until you have a running solution, even if you buy the heat sinks. If you want to produce larger quantities a redesign would make sense. Maybe in a way of fixing a PCB on both sides.
The main advantage for me is clearly that the noise is much (really really much!) less and I can keep my rig on the balcony in a hot, humid and dusty environment without worrying too much.
Are those smooth holes for the water channels with threads on the ends so you can mount the fittings/etc with the threads, or threaded all the way through?
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
Have you considered selling water cooling kits?
There is a inbuild construction error; Do to the electric connectors its just possible to use 3 drills.
This is not the case for the avalon cool element design:
http://92.105.105.155/qcool/AvalonQcool2.pdf
@el_rlee: the qcool element is open source, so if you would like to produce and sell kits, feel free to do so
Have you considered selling water cooling kits?
Nice work man
since aluminum is kind of expensive and drilling those wholes can't be achieved by most DIY folks, would you think some setup like this would be good or even better?
http://imageshack.us/f/360/mkhdd4max02400hz0.jpg/
did you consider this? I think a user posted something similar to this. I'm also looking into making my own watercooler, help would be very much appreciated!
since aluminum is kind of expensive and drilling those wholes can't be achieved by most DIY folks, would you think some setup like this would be good or even better?
http://imageshack.us/f/360/mkhdd4max02400hz0.jpg/
did you consider this? I think a user posted something similar to this. I'm also looking into making my own watercooler, help would be very much appreciated!
Aluminium is expensive? Did you buy copper lately?
Yes, I considered such a design and I think it's more doable with your tools at home. I however think it will be difficult to get the surface flat and straight if you are only using sheet metal as basis and then apply heat when soldering.
I am pretty sure submerging is the to-go way for DIY. I just didn't want to have all the oil on my balcony...
I published the manufacturing drawing, just let a machining shop near you quote it.
Nice work man
since aluminum is kind of expensive and drilling those wholes can't be achieved by most DIY folks, would you think some setup like this would be good or even better?
http://imageshack.us/f/360/mkhdd4max02400hz0.jpg/
did you consider this? I think a user posted something similar to this. I'm also looking into making my own watercooler, help would be very much appreciated!
since aluminum is kind of expensive and drilling those wholes can't be achieved by most DIY folks, would you think some setup like this would be good or even better?
http://imageshack.us/f/360/mkhdd4max02400hz0.jpg/
did you consider this? I think a user posted something similar to this. I'm also looking into making my own watercooler, help would be very much appreciated!
I know, nothing special - but it is the best I can get my hands on at the moment...
What kind of scientist wouldn't check his measurement equipment for plausibility?
In the lower and also higher range?
Hm.
Temperature of the voltage converters
Chips themselves
Cooling plate
Chiller at set value 29 degree (We have 36 outside at the moment and the dew point is around that)
Pump (cheap, around 30$) and two rigs
"Nongfu Spring" - my favorite! Running on pure water at the moment, still not sure what to use as a fluid later on. I was already thinking about adding alcohol to prevent this from growing inside my water, but I am a little hesitant because of the sealings and stuff.
Still a mess, will clean up after everything is working
Water inlet
Return temperature after 3 modules in serial connection
Thanks for your attention.
What kind of scientist wouldn't check his measurement equipment for plausibility?
In the lower and also higher range?
Hm.
Temperature of the voltage converters
Chips themselves
Cooling plate
Chiller at set value 29 degree (We have 36 outside at the moment and the dew point is around that)
Pump (cheap, around 30$) and two rigs
"Nongfu Spring" - my favorite! Running on pure water at the moment, still not sure what to use as a fluid later on. I was already thinking about adding alcohol to prevent this from growing inside my water, but I am a little hesitant because of the sealings and stuff.
Still a mess, will clean up after everything is working
Water inlet
Return temperature after 3 modules in serial connection
Thanks for your attention.
One unexpected problem i had with submerged oil cooling: Wicking -- oil traveling through stranded wire by capillary action -> gravity flow. Had a really simple test setup, and after a couple of days noticed the connector of a submerged temp probe felt oily. Took apart the PS which was left outside of the oil tank, and there was oil inside that too. Just a silly detail to think about.
Is there any risk from using open loop system running tap water in such systems? i.e. corossion, mineral deposits, etc?
At first your environmental responsibility should tell you not to do so. Secondly: condensation.
And obviously mineral deposits present over the use of distilled water.
Is there any risk from using open loop system running tap water in such systems? i.e. corossion, mineral deposits, etc?
At first your environmental responsibility should tell you not to do so. Secondly: condensation.
I run the water now at ~30 degree Celsius, I have 36 ambient temp today with high moisture.
2 pcb's @ one heat sink is not a bad idea, however impossible now with the top board.
I did that, and it didn't change the frequency for about 20 minutes now - running at ~1.2% HW errors. Can it be that it only works with readings of the fan RPM's?
2 pcb's @ one heat sink is not a bad idea, however impossible now with the top board.
You can put it onto --avalon-auto and it will sort out the freq automagicly by looking at the % of hardware errors.
I did that, and it didn't change the frequency for about 20 minutes now - running at ~1.2% HW errors. Can it be that it only works with readings of the fan RPM's?
hmm yes , it is also adjusting the fanspeed, and if that doesn't help it lowers the freq, when temp is below target it tries to increase freq and decrease fan again .. so maybe it needs those fan readings to work (?)
Is there any risk from using open loop system running tap water in such systems? i.e. corossion, mineral deposits, etc?
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