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Topic: Cointerra Hardware Support **Unofficial - page 3. (Read 56761 times)

full member
Activity: 170
Merit: 100
All,

Any chance one of your good looking gentlemen has the latest firmware in your back pocket, do you??  Huh
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
lol sooooo who is the dude saying its a good idea to hook these to a car battery?? i told a guy before its not a good idea to hook them to a car battery to blow the fets that are failing so the board can boot back up again....i dont feel like going through page after page to find my older posts in this thread but to recap my later comments.....dont reverse the inputs (keep ground to ground and pos to pos dont put pos to neg and neg to pos) and if you want to blow the fets of board that look like they are dead even after verifying the pumps work and the thermal paste is good then use a server psu with 2 wires hooked to it that wont shut off like the cointerra psus do and pulse the psu on for a second or 2 then off for a second or 2 then on again and off again until the fet fully blows leaving a clear indication of which one is bad and needs to be replaced and or lets the board at the very least power on again and more often then not hash again but it will be slightly slower because the fet powering the die will be blown so for each 2 fets top and 2 on the bottom goes to 1 die so if 1 of the fets blows in the group 1 die will be down until its replaced. u want to pulse the power not just turn it on and let it burn because they get white hot in a second or so and will burn through the multiple layers of the board pretty fast. i had people send me their broken boards to do this and or replace the failed fets if they didnt have the tools to do it since i do so if u have dead looking boards with no lights and no char patches give this a shot and see how it works for you and if you have boards with gree lights but only partially hashing i can replace the fets on the board for u just pm me if interested but to get most boards back up and running this is what u do....not hooking a 12v car battery to the boards....i wonder if it was the same dude that sent me his boards to be fixed and that i told him a car batter wasnt a good idea lol.

I didn't send you my boards but the reason I suggested a car battery is because I attempted to hook the board to a 1300 watt bench power supply and it still overloaded it without blowing the mosfet. Car battery did the trick though. DC power is DC power and as long as you don't overvolt the board there's no issue. Considering the choice is between dead board and maybe alive board I figured it was worth the risk.
sr. member
Activity: 387
Merit: 254
lol sooooo who is the dude saying its a good idea to hook these to a car battery?? i told a guy before its not a good idea to hook them to a car battery to blow the fets that are failing so the board can boot back up again....i dont feel like going through page after page to find my older posts in this thread but to recap my later comments.....dont reverse the inputs (keep ground to ground and pos to pos dont put pos to neg and neg to pos) and if you want to blow the fets of board that look like they are dead even after verifying the pumps work and the thermal paste is good then use a server psu with 2 wires hooked to it that wont shut off like the cointerra psus do and pulse the psu on for a second or 2 then off for a second or 2 then on again and off again until the fet fully blows leaving a clear indication of which one is bad and needs to be replaced and or lets the board at the very least power on again and more often then not hash again but it will be slightly slower because the fet powering the die will be blown so for each 2 fets top and 2 on the bottom goes to 1 die so if 1 of the fets blows in the group 1 die will be down until its replaced. u want to pulse the power not just turn it on and let it burn because they get white hot in a second or so and will burn through the multiple layers of the board pretty fast. i had people send me their broken boards to do this and or replace the failed fets if they didnt have the tools to do it since i do so if u have dead looking boards with no lights and no char patches give this a shot and see how it works for you and if you have boards with gree lights but only partially hashing i can replace the fets on the board for u just pm me if interested but to get most boards back up and running this is what u do....not hooking a 12v car battery to the boards....i wonder if it was the same dude that sent me his boards to be fixed and that i told him a car batter wasnt a good idea lol.
member
Activity: 70
Merit: 10
Thanks for the input, but I think all associated networking equipment got ether-fried.

I pulled the BBB's out and slipped them a known good micro-SD Debian image, no joy. The router and the switch they were connected to are also
ether-fried, as well as a workstation on that network.
Nobody talks ethernet anymore. Maybe running the miners at 240vAC and connecting them to some 120vAC networking equipment
connected by a long cable to a different 120vAC circuit and then to the utilities
caused some of it to capture a *lot* of energy from the lightning.

 
Luckily I have 2 more BBB's, I'll re-image them and see if I can get them running again.
This time I'll get some grounding and surge protection for the ethernet.
Was  using older, hand-me-down equipment in an industrial area, was bound to run into some problems eventually.

 
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
big trouble -
I think maybe some lightning hit my miners and associated comm gear,
all of it is screwed up.
Both of my TIV's boot up and fail to have ethernet, have yet to figure out
what the issue is, nothing looks popped and nothing obvious from dmesg
so far.

Just open them up and go USB right to the PC running cgminer. The Ethernet port goes to the BBB which is hooked up to each board via USB. You dont need the BBB to run these but you will not have the web interface any more. They work fine without it though.
sr. member
Activity: 751
Merit: 251
big trouble -
I think maybe some lightning hit my miners and associated comm gear,
all of it is screwed up.
Both of my TIV's boot up and fail to have ethernet, have yet to figure out
what the issue is, nothing looks popped and nothing obvious from dmesg
so far.

Sometimes boot up with ethernet disconnected then after it is up  a couple minutes then connect the cable.
member
Activity: 70
Merit: 10
big trouble -
I think maybe some lightning hit my miners and associated comm gear,
all of it is screwed up.
Both of my TIV's boot up and fail to have ethernet, have yet to figure out
what the issue is, nothing looks popped and nothing obvious from dmesg
so far.
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
Does anyone have a link to the latest CoinTerra firmware? Their website is now DOA.

Sure, I just sent a PM with download links. Let me know if you need anything else.
full member
Activity: 224
Merit: 100
Does anyone have a link to the latest CoinTerra firmware? Their website is now DOA.
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
Carman - I have a microscope, going to go over that board I connected to the battery in the next day or so, have been occupied. Will also measure voltage on battery,
car WAS off at the time. I'm sure its close to 12V tho, so will gather that info just for the record.

Sounds good. I'm sure it's fine. Generally there's a fair bit of play in the allowable input voltage and the chip voltage is regulated internally on the board. I don't recall if you did this already but when you attach it back to the terraminer power supply does it still crap out the same way?
member
Activity: 70
Merit: 10

Someone else might be able to correct me, but a car battery while billed out as 12V is usually more like 13v+

Seems high risk to connect to your board. Just my $.02

That's only when charging. Nominal voltage on SLA cells is between 2 and 2.15 volts fully charged. Generally I read around 12.2 on a battery that's been sitting for a few hours. My instructions say to always test voltage first and don't do it while the car is running because then you are correct. Charging voltage is usually around 13.5.


Carman - I have a microscope, going to go over that board I connected to the battery in the next day or so, have been occupied. Will also measure voltage on battery,
car WAS off at the time. I'm sure its close to 12V tho, so will gather that info just for the record.
sr. member
Activity: 751
Merit: 251
Was anyone ever able to decompile the binary firmware for these boards?

Or does anyone have the source code for the firmware? (same thing)

If so, I would pay something for it. 

Thanks!

Are you interested in the image of the firmware?

We all have the *.dfu files.

I want the decompiled source code.  I believe there are some who have it but are quiet no matter how much $BTC is offered.
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Have you attempted swapping the power supplies? Orange light means either an AC issue (problem with power supply itself) or DC issue (usually a short in the board). Read back a couple pages for my posts on this. I provide instructions for how to handle both scenarios. In your case because the board lights up it's probably an AC issue which means you need to replace the faulting power supply.

I swapped power supplies. The result of the former. Concluded that the problem in the board.
I have bad English. I find it hard to translate everything, could you provide a link to their posts?
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
Greetings to all.
Can anyone help?
One of the boards is zombie.
When this indication diodes occurs in a strange way. They light up together and faded out in a second. When connected to cgminer - zombie. The power supply is blinking yellow led.
I would appreciate any useful information.

Have you attempted swapping the power supplies? Orange light means either an AC issue (problem with power supply itself) or DC issue (usually a short in the board). Read back a couple pages for my posts on this. I provide instructions for how to handle both scenarios. In your case because the board lights up it's probably an AC issue which means you need to replace the faulting power supply.
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0

Someone else might be able to correct me, but a car battery while billed out as 12V is usually more like 13v+

Seems high risk to connect to your board. Just my $.02

That's only when charging. Nominal voltage on SLA cells is between 2 and 2.15 volts fully charged. Generally I read around 12.2 on a battery that's been sitting for a few hours. My instructions say to always test voltage first and don't do it while the car is running because then you are correct. Charging voltage is usually around 13.5.
alh
legendary
Activity: 1843
Merit: 1050
I got around to attaching my dead board to a battery yesterday using the cables which led to the
power supply. I pulled the board and walked it to my car.
 I had another person with me, neither of us heard audible pops
and we didn't see anything is bubbled/charred.

The first time I hooked it to the battery all the LED's lit up, then went off and all but one relit. I think it was D38.
All the others, including D45, lit up and stayed solidly lit.
I left it attached for like 10 seconds, we neither heard nor saw anything.
Did it again, same deal.
Did it again, seems like something had changed, the point where I attached the pos cable to the battery started to sizzle.
I disconnected, thought I'd just not pressed hard enough.
Repeat, pos connection started to sizzle.



Someone else might be able to correct me, but a car battery while billed out as 12V is usually more like 13v+

Seems high risk to connect to your board. Just my $.02
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Greetings to all.
Can anyone help?
One of the boards is zombie.
When this indication diodes occurs in a strange way. They light up together and faded out in a second. When connected to cgminer - zombie. The power supply is blinking yellow led.
I would appreciate any useful information.
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Was anyone ever able to decompile the binary firmware for these boards?

Or does anyone have the source code for the firmware? (same thing)

If so, I would pay something for it. 

Thanks!

Are you interested in the image of the firmware?
sr. member
Activity: 751
Merit: 251
Was anyone ever able to decompile the binary firmware for these boards?

Or does anyone have the source code for the firmware? (same thing)

If so, I would pay something for it. 

Thanks!
newbie
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
also the sizzling is a sign of a bad connection. If the connector sparks and you make contact again in the same location the connection usually isn't as good which can lead to the sizzling you heard. If you hook back up to the regular power supply now what happens?
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