Hmmm... To post pictures, I'd have to reach to the shelf where the blade is sitting, unplug it, take pictures and then re-plug it. Lost revenue, too much work. There are a couple of pictures already posted showing the little red fuse with the letter R on it. It is soldered on the board and you cannot remove it to replace it.
Thinking back now about it, I could have simply used "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue instead of soldering.
If you look at a picture of the fuse, you will a small tiny metal surface on both sides of it. Just buy a 10A auto fuse from Auto Zone or any auto parts shop. Apply a tiny amount of the conductive glue to the two ends of the auto fuse and to the two tiny surfaces next to the blown fuse.
If you google ""Wire Glue" Conductive Glue", you will see what I mean. I do not know for sure it'll work, but it certainly is much less messy than soldering.
Topic: Erupter Blade V2 issue - not powering on (Read 11482 times)
Soldering a fuse to bypass the blown one is so messy (I am new at this). I do not know if now there's a new fuse between the 2 sides of the fuse assembly , or the 2 sides are just permanently jumpered together! The board powered-up though and I am now hashing happily!
So you did a repair? Can you post pics?
Soldering a fuse to bypass the blown one is so messy (I am new at this). I do not know if now there's a new fuse between the 2 sides of the fuse assembly , or the 2 sides are just permanently jumpered together! The board powered-up though and I am now hashing happily!
What is the cause of the fuses blowing?
Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.
Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.
Ok, I'm safe then, thanks!
What is the cause of the fuses blowing?
Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.
Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.
Yikes, hope this doesn't happen on any of mine. Seems like the old v2 design was better. What is the cause of the fuses blowing?
Thanks everyone for input and advice.
I blew my R-coded fuse by following instructions and looking at picture on a guide on another forum. Lesson learned: Look for the PLUS + and Negative - signs on the connector to see where the yellow and black wires should go, do not assume they go exactly as you see on a picture on the internet!!!
I knew my fuse was blown when i used a paperclip to jumper the 2 sides of the fuse and the board seemed to power-up.
Thanks for the advice to solder on a 10A auto fuse. I will try that next.
I blew my R-coded fuse by following instructions and looking at picture on a guide on another forum. Lesson learned: Look for the PLUS + and Negative - signs on the connector to see where the yellow and black wires should go, do not assume they go exactly as you see on a picture on the internet!!!
I knew my fuse was blown when i used a paperclip to jumper the 2 sides of the fuse and the board seemed to power-up.
Thanks for the advice to solder on a 10A auto fuse. I will try that next.
Yeah they decided to go cheaper on the green-board V2 blades. The fuse is soldered, so no socket. No reset or test/debug headers, and it's only got one output cap on the bank VRMs instead of two. Stuff like that.
So here is the type of fuse I have:
And here it is on the board, does not look like it can be removed:
And here it is on the board, does not look like it can be removed:
Interesting. Saw a Blade photo on another thread and there was no reset header. No removable fuse as well?
The fuse trips at 8A. Breaking capacity is the current the fuse can safely stop without exploding.
As for protecting against opposite polarity, not strictly no. Placing a forward-biased diode in series with the fuse would prevent against reverse polarity current. Also placing a reverse-biased diode in parallel with the fuse would trip the fuse quickly if it were plugged in backward, without having the power loss of a diode drop at 8A present during continuous use. These blades may already have protection like that implemented though.
As for protecting against opposite polarity, not strictly no. Placing a forward-biased diode in series with the fuse would prevent against reverse polarity current. Also placing a reverse-biased diode in parallel with the fuse would trip the fuse quickly if it were plugged in backward, without having the power loss of a diode drop at 8A present during continuous use. These blades may already have protection like that implemented though.
Thanks, but that Digi-Key fuse breaks at 50 amps; isn't that far higher than the board could ever receive from the type of PC PSU's we're all using?
Will this fuse protect against current running in opposite polarity (+/ground reversed)?
Will this fuse protect against current running in opposite polarity (+/ground reversed)?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125-2/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125CT-ND/2766071
Not sure how well the ends will meet with the socket contacts if you have a blue-board blade, but that's jerry-riggable.
Not sure how well the ends will meet with the socket contacts if you have a blue-board blade, but that's jerry-riggable.
Where to purchase a replacement fuse for version 2? (The tiny, non-automotive fuse pictured in this thread.)
Blew my board's fuse and am using a small piece of conductive aluminum to bridge the open fuse socket for now, but would sleep better know I had a fuse in their instead.
Thanks
Blew my board's fuse and am using a small piece of conductive aluminum to bridge the open fuse socket for now, but would sleep better know I had a fuse in their instead.
Thanks
This same incident just happened to me too.
I just lost 8 blades - Poofff gone. All running on a backplane sitting on electrical grade GP03 fiberglass.... Was running a 750 PSU and then everything showed Zero for speed on my mining pool. I didn't have any replacement fuses, nor do I know where to get them.
I'm still down
- Is anyone still buying units like this? Could use the capital to get new miners. I have five (5) Green Back BE V. 2.01 and three (3) Blue Back BE V. 2.01's for sale.
All are in perfect condition less the fuse assembly. Look brand new..
I was able to get one unit running perfectly by removing the fuse, cleaning the contacts and electrical taping over the fuse.
I just lost 8 blades - Poofff gone. All running on a backplane sitting on electrical grade GP03 fiberglass.... Was running a 750 PSU and then everything showed Zero for speed on my mining pool. I didn't have any replacement fuses, nor do I know where to get them.
I'm still down
- Is anyone still buying units like this? Could use the capital to get new miners. I have five (5) Green Back BE V. 2.01 and three (3) Blue Back BE V. 2.01's for sale.All are in perfect condition less the fuse assembly. Look brand new..
I was able to get one unit running perfectly by removing the fuse, cleaning the contacts and electrical taping over the fuse.
haha yep same 
No clue here either. I tend to void warranties more often than redeem them.
yeah i couldn't actually figure out how you contact them in order to talk about a replacement? Their website doesn't seem to offer any contact details.
The good thing about these is each bank has a completely independent VRM, so yeah it's pretty likely that even if one row blew the rest of your chips are still good once the shorted parts are removed. Hopefully a blown FET is all it is.
Just occurred to me, you might also consider checking with ASICMiner about warranty replacement?
Just occurred to me, you might also consider checking with ASICMiner about warranty replacement?
fantastic thanks I'll give that a shot later or tomorrow. I think I might have had 12v heading to the asics on one bank though as after the fet blew a row of asics were very quick to follow. Still it was only one bank so like you say, perhaps it'll still power the rest of them up Worth a shot anyway.
Thanks for your help - it's great!
Worth a shot anyway.Thanks for your help - it's great!
I'm not sure but that you might try pulling pin 6 on the buck IC low. It's an enable that's internally pulled high; looks like it routs to a via on the board and it's got voltage on it but I'm not sure yet if it pulls from external or not. If it's externally driven but not resistor-tied to high, then forcing it low could short out the low-volt regulator and power down the board, or fry the regulator. If it's internally pulled high, then putting ground on that via/pin should keep the thing turned off.
Before relying on that, I'd make sure none of your FETs failed short or they could be driving 12V into the ASICs on that bank.
I'd say if you pull the two FETs and the inductor, that should effectively isolate the voltage output from basically any high-side or ground DC and the regulator IC can't really do a thing about it.
Before relying on that, I'd make sure none of your FETs failed short or they could be driving 12V into the ASICs on that bank.
I'd say if you pull the two FETs and the inductor, that should effectively isolate the voltage output from basically any high-side or ground DC and the regulator IC can't really do a thing about it.
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