Topic: GekkoScience Terminus R808 Miner Official Support Thread - page 3. (Read 16919 times)
I really need to keep an eye on that guy. New miner, gotta check it out.
Cool, thanks. I've been looking for a HP power supply. @jstefanop announced a scrypt miner so maybe I can run my Terminus R808 and Apollo on the same power supply! 
I know this is an "old" thread, but I wanted to place a heads up for anyone that gets this far,
You can run the Terminus R808's stable from a barrel connected power brick, just don't by uncertified junk imported from china from Amazon for $10.
We run single R808s at 275Mhz with 0 HW or heat issues off good quality power bricks(yes we sell them) and for larger scale multi unit mining, you can also get a GekkoScience Power Breakoutboard kit and a HP Universal power supply for around $100, if you cant find a good "PC Tower" power supply that fits your needs.
https://www.419mining.com/shop/power-supply/12v-7amp-power-supply-for-terminus-miners/
https://www.419mining.com/shop/power-supply/complete-power-bundle/
You can run the Terminus R808's stable from a barrel connected power brick, just don't by uncertified junk imported from china from Amazon for $10.
We run single R808s at 275Mhz with 0 HW or heat issues off good quality power bricks(yes we sell them) and for larger scale multi unit mining, you can also get a GekkoScience Power Breakoutboard kit and a HP Universal power supply for around $100, if you cant find a good "PC Tower" power supply that fits your needs.
https://www.419mining.com/shop/power-supply/12v-7amp-power-supply-for-terminus-miners/
https://www.419mining.com/shop/power-supply/complete-power-bundle/
Just my 0.02 cents
My original R808 has been running 24/7 for months now @ 150mhz solid
Reading and following the advice on this board:
Replaced both fans with 50 x 50 x 20 units from Amazon
Both original fans were starting to fail, slowing and chattering but they served their time well up to this point
Original M3 screws were replace with M3 x 50mm. Heatsink was drill & tapped perfectly so replacement was easy
R808 is now running @ 175mhz comfortably
The only downside is louder fans, to be expected tho.
Also changed power supply from the 6A brick to a Corsair Gold PS and using the 6 pin connector
I know it's my imagination but the R808 seems to start faster and run better with the 6 pin connection
Overall, the R808 design was extremely well designed
My original R808 has been running 24/7 for months now @ 150mhz solid
Reading and following the advice on this board:
Replaced both fans with 50 x 50 x 20 units from Amazon
Both original fans were starting to fail, slowing and chattering but they served their time well up to this point
Original M3 screws were replace with M3 x 50mm. Heatsink was drill & tapped perfectly so replacement was easy
R808 is now running @ 175mhz comfortably
The only downside is louder fans, to be expected tho.
Also changed power supply from the 6A brick to a Corsair Gold PS and using the 6 pin connector
I know it's my imagination but the R808 seems to start faster and run better with the 6 pin connection
Overall, the R808 design was extremely well designed
That's not your imagination; the barrel connector just does not supply enough current. I have a pair that average 107.8 MH/s each @ 250 MHz that have been running for over two months continuously (almost 3 months, now) on a server psu. I could not get above 175 MHz reliably on a wall wart.
Just my 0.02 cents
My original R808 has been running 24/7 for months now @ 150mhz solid
Reading and following the advice on this board:
Replaced both fans with 50 x 50 x 20 units from Amazon
Both original fans were starting to fail, slowing and chattering but they served their time well up to this point
Original M3 screws were replace with M3 x 50mm. Heatsink was drill & tapped perfectly so replacement was easy
R808 is now running @ 175mhz comfortably
The only downside is louder fans, to be expected tho.
Also changed power supply from the 6A brick to a Corsair Gold PS and using the 6 pin connector
I know it's my imagination but the R808 seems to start faster and run better with the 6 pin connection
Overall, the R808 design was extremely well designed
My original R808 has been running 24/7 for months now @ 150mhz solid
Reading and following the advice on this board:
Replaced both fans with 50 x 50 x 20 units from Amazon
Both original fans were starting to fail, slowing and chattering but they served their time well up to this point
Original M3 screws were replace with M3 x 50mm. Heatsink was drill & tapped perfectly so replacement was easy
R808 is now running @ 175mhz comfortably
The only downside is louder fans, to be expected tho.
Also changed power supply from the 6A brick to a Corsair Gold PS and using the 6 pin connector
I know it's my imagination but the R808 seems to start faster and run better with the 6 pin connection
Overall, the R808 design was extremely well designed
Just a heads up. Do not underestimate the importance of a quality power supply source.
My two Terminus were just working fine for many weeks with the plug packs provided with them. I was always concerned though that the plug packs were running rather hot. I had attempted overclocking, however I could not get them to be stable above 200MHz. Then just last week I noticed they were not hashing away any more. The devices were constantly being restarted. Inspired by one of the other members on here, I went and found myself a cheap PC power supply with dual 6pin PCIe power connectors. The two terminus are now hashing away at 275MHz and look to be very stable, without one restart.
ps. Also looking forward to the new design Sidehack is working on.
My two Terminus were just working fine for many weeks with the plug packs provided with them. I was always concerned though that the plug packs were running rather hot. I had attempted overclocking, however I could not get them to be stable above 200MHz. Then just last week I noticed they were not hashing away any more. The devices were constantly being restarted. Inspired by one of the other members on here, I went and found myself a cheap PC power supply with dual 6pin PCIe power connectors. The two terminus are now hashing away at 275MHz and look to be very stable, without one restart.
ps. Also looking forward to the new design Sidehack is working on.
I'd be interested in the box design. Would we need two fans to pull and push air out of the box?
The heat and noise are both a factor of power density, which also has an adverse effect on longevity. Home mining's biggest issue is manufacturers who think it's appropriate to stuff multiple kilowatts into a cracker box.
I am testing for noise levels today. One simple fix for pumps is to put them into a soundproof box with a pair of passive air circulation baffles, the foam is only around a $1 a square foot and the box is easy to make. I used the wall foam, 2.5" egg carton style, in my recording studio and at 2,400wrms, you couldn't hear anything in the control room, except through the control room monitor speakers. If anyone needs the design, just ask and I will draw it up and provide a public link.
There are ways to get around everything ;-) I think I am going to put these oil/water cooled heat sinks up on ebay, might as well let everyone get some since I did all the modelling and production of my own units.
Cheers
well, i think that the heat dissipation is the base of the noise, and the noise is what renders it unusable in home applications.
Agreed, one is tied to another, but i do know that its definately not easy to get rid of the noise... Other than immersion cooling or water cooled blocks. So...
Those fans all together consume a huge amount of power as well, which can be used to cool or pump as well.
Agreed, one is tied to another, but i do know that its definately not easy to get rid of the noise... Other than immersion cooling or water cooled blocks. So...
Those fans all together consume a huge amount of power as well, which can be used to cool or pump as well.
The heat and noise are both a factor of power density, which also has an adverse effect on longevity. Home mining's biggest issue is manufacturers who think it's appropriate to stuff multiple kilowatts into a cracker box.
@meckanic: The coolant I linked to is dielectric as well as non-corrosive. Basically just drop them in the tank.
@dutchlincoln: I don't think the home-miner's biggest issue is noise; I believe it's heat dissipation. I can get noise levels down with a bit of engineering around the miner. The only ways to deal with heat are removal (fans/ducting, liquids & radiators, etc.), or turn the miner down (downclock). It's practically impossible to run S7 and above at normal settings in the living room/bed room/den with household A/C because of the heat during the warmer months.
@dutchlincoln: I don't think the home-miner's biggest issue is noise; I believe it's heat dissipation. I can get noise levels down with a bit of engineering around the miner. The only ways to deal with heat are removal (fans/ducting, liquids & radiators, etc.), or turn the miner down (downclock). It's practically impossible to run S7 and above at normal settings in the living room/bed room/den with household A/C because of the heat during the warmer months.
now what i wonder: if someone designs something like this; why not design a new wort of S9, built with wate/liquid cooled blocks, optimised to run silent? its the biggest problem for the most people: noise...
If we could fabricate these with watercooling we could stack many and have decent hashrates and silent operation...
If we could fabricate these with watercooling we could stack many and have decent hashrates and silent operation...
I would like to run mine in a tank of this:
https://www.engineeredfluids.com/bitcool
The 2Pacs as well. I just can't justify it at this time
https://www.engineeredfluids.com/bitcool
The 2Pacs as well. I just can't justify it at this time
Had a buddy with a micro-cray about 15 years ago. It was a little bit bigger than a standard desktop, it was filled with oil. Of course it was built that way, so all of the electrical connections were apparently sealed or soldered, it had it's own recirculating system. I never did take it apart though, too messy lol. You could possibly do the same thing with the r808's, but you will have to make sure that any connections are sealed or soldered. Just a secondary note, you'll still need a pump, radiator and fans since if you leave the oil in one place without cooling it will eventually exceed the temperature working limits of the chips.
Cheers
I would like to run mine in a tank of this:
https://www.engineeredfluids.com/bitcool
The 2Pacs as well. I just can't justify it at this time
https://www.engineeredfluids.com/bitcool
The 2Pacs as well. I just can't justify it at this time
If you've got more questions, I'd try searching first. This thread and the dev thread can tell you pretty much everything, including the answers to all of today's questions so far.
I have been searching the forum for a dev thread for the terminus R808, unfortunately haven't found one specifically. I can figure it all out, I have a lot of toys ;-)
Anyway, I figured I would use medium velocity liquid transfer (less than 0.25 seconds/cm) across the highest surface area I could get, I wanted very little pooling time. So far so good. Figured I'd throw them up on one of my sites that I just set up last night for other projects I am doing (you can see site's not complete, have a lot of text to add lol). Two different flavours, Acrylic and PVC, I think I'll cut the thickness in half. Might change to 1/4" copper plate rather than aluminum as well for oil usage, water creates too much oxidization with copper.
http://dal-tek.com/hs2.JPG
http://dal-tek.com/hs4.JPG
I think this should work pretty well with a 300mm reservoir, 100 gph high flow/low pressure pump and a 14" x 7" radiator with dual 6" fans. It would be nice to have the regulator board cooled as well, but I'll look at that tomorrow.
Cheers
As mentioned before, the limit is thermal derating of the main regulator. If you can keep that cold enough to not trip out, you can set the speed as high as you want.
Temperature is not available on USB. Nothing is. USB is wired straight to a UART adapter wired straight to the ASICs. If you can tag into the fan header (or the PWM testpad) it'll give you a rough idea of temperatures, within limits - it goes from 50% to 100% duty cycle between 30C and 60C.
The jumpers are a header used to program the onboard micro which handles string lockup resetting, overtemp shutdown and throttling fans based on heat. You won't need to know about it unless you are planning to write a custom firmware.
If you've got more questions, I'd try searching first. This thread and the dev thread can tell you pretty much everything, including the answers to all of today's questions so far.
Temperature is not available on USB. Nothing is. USB is wired straight to a UART adapter wired straight to the ASICs. If you can tag into the fan header (or the PWM testpad) it'll give you a rough idea of temperatures, within limits - it goes from 50% to 100% duty cycle between 30C and 60C.
The jumpers are a header used to program the onboard micro which handles string lockup resetting, overtemp shutdown and throttling fans based on heat. You won't need to know about it unless you are planning to write a custom firmware.
If you've got more questions, I'd try searching first. This thread and the dev thread can tell you pretty much everything, including the answers to all of today's questions so far.
I'm gonna bet most everything you need to know is in the first post.
I went through the first post when I got the r808's. I see the core voltage is controlled by the pot, that's fine. What do the jumpers do? I see no reference for them?
Command line control was easy for changing freq speeds and step up times, I just wrote a config file. Like I said initially, nice little unit, easy to manage, I just want to push the envelope a bit, get 275mhz down to an operating temp of around 35/40 degrees C and then run up from there. I can monitor actual core temp via the USB I believe. I would have to look up the command.
Is there any way to increase clock frequency above 275mhz other than command line or possibly changing hardware? Is there a firmware "governor" on the unit, so the frequency cannot be increased past 275mhz?
Cheers
I'm gonna bet most everything you need to know is in the first post.
Okay, but don't forget that the limiter is heat in the main regulator. Depending on heat, it could cut off at 15A or so, which is only about 6W per chip.
Also, that's a lot of finagling. I'd say once you're taking stuff apart it becomes "roast at your own risk".
Also, that's a lot of finagling. I'd say once you're taking stuff apart it becomes "roast at your own risk".
I hear you ;-) I was thinking of adding a side-sink just to cool the regulator area. It will be an afterthought though as I am dealing with the main 8 chips first, I can add-in on the side for the regulator. It would be nice if I could oil cool that section as well, but lot of hills and valleys to deal with. I have the cnc and a laser scanner I can use for 3D profiling, so maybe. The main parts are almost milled, one is done, but I just used a ball mill for now, doesn't have to be perfect and pretty for prototyping, just functional.
I didn't get a lot of setup instruction with these. I can use command line management to control many functions on the R808, but I didn't get anything on jumper settings or the pot function? Would you have that handy?
Cheers
Would adding heat sinks to the regulator help?
Jump to: