Topic: GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod - page 54. (Read 156991 times)

It could be just me, but it looks like there is a solder bridge on the resistor you just replaced (Could be a camera + lighting "mirage").

wow very nice work Volder!

SMD Resistors arrived and successfully replaced. Now, to start testing! This is my first attempt at using a hot air rework station and I have very little soldering experience. I think it came out ok though.

I am in Waxahachie and could sure use some help with this if you have time.  Haven't found the PM button yet on this forum...sorry.
Posted from Bitcointa.lk - #vb0jyqJZllZYYR1C

that happens to me as well, but after 24 hours, they level out...

like when i first start these suckers up, one of my grids will be doing like 2x-3x more hashes than the rest... like it'll be in the 2000 accepted shares(cgminer), while the rest are still struggling in the 500's. But after 24hrs, they all are within the same ballpark..

OMG it's not blood diamonds but blood miners lol

I can't tell you about your problem. I can say that without mod I can't go higher than 850. otherwise I get alot of red nonce.

What I did notice, is that on some pools I am able to push the Gridseed higher than others. Last time on one pool 825 worked and on an other 875

so I don't know about that but I did notice this happening on several pools.

Believe it or not but there was blood on my units :/
Well still is lol.


Also, after some testing here, it seems that these "mods" are somewhat bad. As far as I know, we get paid per share. I'm hashing away at ~530Kh/s (Running at 1213Mhz with 0 HW), but after 1 hour my machine that is hashing at 400Kh/s (900Mhz with 0 HW) is making just a few shares bellow the OC one (Like less than 5). I'm not even sure if I'm going to mod my other miners (I could be wrong). Anyone else who modded their units are running into this problem?

Thanks!

Well I got a brand new GS and when I removed the heatsink I also got a bit of residue from the thermal pad left on them.

I guess it's just a matter how hard the little chinese kids tighten the screws 

It's just bits of thermal pad that got stuck to the chips. I removed my fans, so the chips probably got warm enouh to melt the thermal pad more, so it stuck better.

Whats that white resin on the GC3355 chips? Everyone seems to have that except me lol. I got a few units and none of them have it. I'm guessing is thermal paste. Did you apply it?

Thanks

Btw, You should cover the plastic pin headers on the right. The corners might melt a bit.

For those of you who haven't yet seen an 0402 resistor. Check this out. That sucker is small!

Well, I decided to give it a shot. I picked up a nice hot air rework station from Amazon and that's what I'll be using.

My first Gridseed unit prepped and ready, complete with Kapton Tape. Waiting for SMD resistors to arrive. They are on the UPS truck and should be here within the next hour.

Sorry, mate! I can't help you with logistics - down under.
I'd try www.digikey.com I don't know if or who services you guys out there.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MFR-25FRF52-49K9/49.9KXTR-ND/14629

Nemercry is right, too. The choice however, is yours. Either one will work. Depends on your skill level and tenacity and perfectionism. I suggest axial for reasons already stated and - emphasized!
Can't tell you what do to with your watts. It's entirely up to you how many extra watts you wanna pay for but I do believe that this upgrade is not prohibitively expensive for most. Except those cats in Spain that say they are paying .75/KWh! WHEW!

Just practice and make sure you can get it right the first couple tries if not the first one. Tin your leads before attempting to solder the new resistor to the pcb solder points. I can do it in one shot, of course
To remove the 'old' SMD, heat it up with the tip of your solder iron to soften up the solder connections, put the tip directly on the solder blobs of the chip and pry it off - gently. It will probably either flick off into oblivion or stick to the tip of your soldering iron.

Get rid of it, or save it for later microscopic observation, then tin the solder points of the pcb you just pried the SMD from. Be very careful not to tear the terminal off when you peel the old SMD away! Make sure you melt the solder completely in any case when performing this operation! Overheating and ruining the chip doesn't matter. Melting the solder does! So burn that sucker up of you need to! It's dead meat now, anyway

And as usual, you do this operation at your own risk and expense!

God speed, mate!

No thank YOU, for your hard work, if I was close by and no shipping costs involved i definitley would have got you to do a few atleast.. But I am down Under - Sydney _ OZ

I have done some soldering in the past , Tiny LED lights on the good old Nokia 8250, Remember the Blue screen ones? Well I had them changing different colours each time you flick the screen on haha, Working in a phone repair shop does that to you, Although I never got that far into that industry to start knowing what all the resistor and Ohm lingo is...

So you recon the Axial is easier? haha thats what I thought but Nemercy recons the SMB is easier I guess its what equipment you use, I mean I do have a steady hand and  If I buy these

http://www.ebay.de/itm/181097772265?var=480221522752&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Is this the 49K?

Also can You please show me a link to get the axial type? In 3 different resistor stages that Nemesy stated to give higher frequency stable Or even Some keywords for me to Search for as this Electrical chip abbreviation codes and keywords is all new to me and I am lost looking at it all.

47kOhm 1% gives you stable 1100mhz to 1150mhz range 21,5 W Powerdraw including PSU  
52kOhm 1% gives you stable 1200mhz 31W including PSU
56kOhm 1% gives you stable 1250mhz 44W including PSU

The Ebay link above shows  description ( 50 pieces SMD resistors 0402 values ​​1k - 10M Ohm 0.063W 1%)  I dont get this, No where did I find the KOHM numbers above? This is what I mean by electronic lingo.. I need help here I want to buy all the KOHM in Axial and SMB so I can play around and experiment if need be or if another mod is found these may be usefull

Also is any solder good to use, I know 0.5 is the size but can I use any 0.5 such as this for eg:

http://www.amazon.com/Veecome-0-5MM-Diameter-Solder-Soldering/dp/B007KXTJSY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397057006&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=0.5+mm+Solder+Solder+Flux+Solder+wires+with+tin+lot+SMD+LED

Lets just say My electricity is 0.14-16c Per KWH

Do you think its worth going higher? I mean the Stable 530KH that I saw is UNBELEIVABLE, dont forget I came from GPU doing 985KH at aroun 285-300watts. So The KH to hash ratio at 530kh is crazy good. And Electricity is Especially better in the day time while the sun is out we have Solar panels that feed into the grid which they give us a rebate on... But at night its all grid work but it is offpeak rates I guess. Anyway I averaged it all out with the rebate and discounts and off and On peak Its around 0.14-16c Per KWH I pay all round day n night if I use 24/7

Thank you gtraah! And, thanks again, all fellow contributors!
Glad you were able to figure out the current mod after all that reading
Most likely, the optimum mod has been figured out and implemented.
Trial and error is over where that particular R&D action goes.

The latest and greatest mod IS replace R52 with a 49.9K 1% tolerance resistor be it SMD or axial.
The choice is yours, although I recommend using the axial 1/4W as it's easiest to handle and solder in, especially for green horns. 50K will work too. IF you go much higher than that, you're pod will start sucking too much juice and waste too much power! BEWARE of the power suckers! They love to steal away your profits and brick your pod! I have personally found that anything over this value is a waste of hashing power. It doesn't pay off at the pool! That is where it counts in the end!

BUT I would not recommend any green horns try this mod themselves. It takes knowledge, experience and a very steady hand to do it correctly. And as you can imagine, this mod isn't for the faint of heart!
It takes a bit of confront to carry out the mod seeing one is risking bricking their pod and losing a fair amount of money!

If you want to have your pod modded professionally, I am sure you can find a good experienced and meticulous tech to do it for you.

I can do mods for anyone located in the USA. PM me for details or email me at [email protected]

Thanks again for your nice comments!
Best of luck, mate!


 

I understand I will certainly test the pods first ...

One person cannot create a How-To PDF by him/herself. The vast array of OS's, miner versions and builds make it obsolete by the time it's published. With different miner configurations coming out every week for different OS's, you expect someone to spend a week testing and documenting each little step and how to explain it to a beginner in laymens terms on a multiple series of varying hardware for a never ending project?

Basics:
1.Test your units for at least one full day BEFORE moding. Doesn't matter what software or OS. Whatever you are comfortable with. Make sure they are working so you can replace them under warranty BEFORE moding. There are 5 chips in it, one or more might be quirky or defective.
2.Change out 1 resistor for another. Start mining at a default frequency. Go up if there are no hardware errors. Go down if you get too many. Repeat for each unit.

In a months time, there could be more than just a resistor change to get the most of these things. So no need to create a PDF.

I am ordering resistors today, I will try and take some photos along the way of my mod process.  Too bad I don't have a Macro Lens.  If someone beats me to it than so be it. 

Hi Guys,

I have started reading this thread earlier today and haven't stopped for 5 hrs+ , mind you , this is whilst @ work, Driving (oops) , At home , At partners house and here we are now, I must say thanks so much for the main Top dogs in here

Andareed

Nemercy


Wolfey

And of course I may have missed others but DAMM the thread is quite a mixture of things and got a bit confusing, I stopped about 7 pages ago after we got the latest Mod trick (or maybe theres another now lol ?? Anyway I must say this thread started of great and then testosterone started taking over slightly (don't worry it happens to us guys, its nature) anyway many did keep there cool and I commend you as this is where the actual strength is TOLERANCE is the key word here but saying all that it did get back on track abit and produced some decent results..

Great work Nemercy for the find, Atleast I think it was you that figured this one out? And thanks to whoever assisted.


I noticed quite a few people would really want a Step by Step guide for the latest and greatest mod, and I am really surprised that a group of you guys that have been on here from the beginning or at least a while back have not chipped in some crypto and put up a bounty for the person who can do this, A HOW-TO-MOD for Dummies version and data tables to show frequency settings and results and LATEST Cgminer versions etc...

I am willing to put forward $10 USD in the Bounty Jar to start it off so even if we get 5-7 of us thats $70USD for someone (Preferably one of the top dogs above) to create a document/PDF or even a thread.

Reason I am saying this is man-O-man there is a lot of mixture in here and you really need to look carefully at each post to find out what needs to be done and what the latest mod or the most stable ... If someone started reading this like I did , I was going to do the MOD on the first page.. Luckily I kept reading and found that this is obsolete now.

Also I cant help but put my 2-cents here, I have been mining Scrypt since last year I have plenty of 290x Cards and have literally been at it hours UPON hours, tweaking , tuning , Bios flashing - I have had many Display crashes, Computer crashes, even burnt out 1 MB and 1 PSU So i have tested each of my cards to there physical limits and tried NUMEROUS pools, Middlecoin, Coinsolver, wafflepool,Clevermining,multipool.us, random Litecoin pools - And let me just say that the pool side KH is never taken literally... Only what ever is shown on Cgminer itself. On one of my Rigs with 6.5MHz I have seen My hasrates JUMP 1000KH + & - Seriously But NEVER seen this happen in Cgminer NEVER... so as far as I am concerned cgminer is what I look at when tweaking.

But when I saw nemercys CGminer screenshot MY GAWD I am impressed. So is anyone willing to do a guide for some cash I mean seriously guys who wants this guide? are you willing to chuck in, even if 5 of us chuck in $10 thats $50 for 1 hours work most probably it will take less time. Now $50 dollars an hour in my books is well above the average wage Of Course feel free to do it either way if we get donates or not lets just say you did it for the community and hashing power But hey I will throw my donate at you no matter what.. Thing is I am not a soldering pro and every extra bit of instruction will help me through this nerve racking journey and I want to be sure I am doing the right thing. And I wish I lived near one of you guys but I am from Sydney- OZ I little far I think

PS - If I missed a link that shows the instructions in good detail please show me, Maybe I missed it during my busy day as I said I was reading this while doing many things.

Yes, I know it seems counter intuitive but, that's the nature of these little buggers!
Good luck!