[Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup - page 69.

muyuu

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Quote from: sinx91 on May 19, 2013, 09:35:10 AM

cant access the configuration page. i typed in 192.168.1.254:8000.

The browser tries to load the page around 30 sec but nothing happens.

After 4 or 5 minutes the asic restarts and the same happens again.

it is draining about 100 watt, the ethernet port is green blinking and the yellow led
is always on.

It seems like he can not connect to my router, in mz log file there is no connection from mz asic.

What is wrong?

everzthing is connected as written in zour guide

What is the local address of your router? I had to change the set-up of my router because it used the exact same address the blades use. Changed it to 192.168.1.1. There can be other configuration issues in the router, like the mask not allowing for addresses over a certain range. Give it a look.

EDIT: oops I see you've fixed it. Yep, that's the kind of problem I was expecting.

stslimited

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redacted

pikeadz

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I have narrowed down my problems to my wifi. Whenever I disable it, I am problem free.

Beyond that, I have a question. At times when everything appears to be running smoothly, it will hash at 13104mh/s or something way above what friedcat has said is the max hash rate under optimal cooling. And the received/accepted shares ratio is 5856:5861, which is efficiency of over 100%. How is that possible?

sinx91

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After some tries i found my problem. For all the people with the same problem:

Iam from germany and using telekom as my provider, also i use a telekom router.
This router has this as his default dhcp setting: ips from range 192.168.2.100 to 192.168.2.199.

You must change the dhcp settings in you router to ip ranges

Between 192.168.1.100 and 192.168.1.254 (maximum) to allow the asic to connect with you router.

I hope you understand what i mean haha

iam happy now

dogie

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Quote from: sinx91 on May 19, 2013, 09:35:10 AM

cant access the configuration page. i typed in 192.168.1.254:8000.

The browser tries to load the page around 30 sec but nothing happens.

After 4 or 5 minutes the asic restarts and the same happens again.

it is draining about 100 watt, the ethernet port is green blinking and the yellow led
is always on.

It seems like he can not connect to my router, in mz log file there is no connection from mz asic.

What is wrong?

everzthing is connected as written in zour guide

Blade connected to the router, not a computer?

Caesium

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Quote from: dogie on May 19, 2013, 08:37:39 AM

You want to use an 8 pin. 6 pin is still only rated for 75W, while 8 pin for 150W. The 8 pin has 5 blacks and 3 yellows. You want to use as many as you can.

Right, but doesn't this rating refer to the plug rather than the cabling? I trust AWG (if they're not lying, as you mentioned) and 18AWG * 2 is plenty sufficient.

sinx91

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cant access the configuration page. i typed in 192.168.1.254:8000.

The browser tries to load the page around 30 sec but nothing happens.

After 4 or 5 minutes the asic restarts and the same happens again.

it is draining about 100 watt, the ethernet port is green blinking and the yellow led
is always on.

It seems like he can not connect to my router, in mz log file there is no connection from mz asic.

What is wrong?

everzthing is connected as written in zour guide

dogie

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Quote from: opinologo on May 19, 2013, 08:35:40 AM

Thanks Dogie and Caesium!

Quote

That's what I advise people to use, two yellows, and two blacks, each at 18AWG, ideally from a PCI-e cable with the plug chopped off.

So I can see three yellow and three black wires in the PCI-e cable. Should I just chop the plug, choose two yellows and two blacks and then connect it to the delivery board?

You want to use an 8 pin. 6 pin is still only rated for 75W, while 8 pin for 150W. The 8 pin has 5 blacks and 3 yellows. You want to use as many as you can.

opinologo

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Thanks Dogie and Caesium!

Quote

That's what I advise people to use, two yellows, and two blacks, each at 18AWG, ideally from a PCI-e cable with the plug chopped off.

So I can see three yellow and three black wires in the PCI-e cable. Should I just chop the plug, choose two yellows and two blacks and then connect it to the delivery board?

Caesium

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Quote from: dogie on May 19, 2013, 06:04:05 AM

You can just see from the way its bending that its not true 18AWG. I'm going to change the guide to recommend PCI-E 8 pin based power as there's been too many burnt cables in the US. Its annoying because the proper cabling doesn't move above room temp.

+1. That's what I advise people to use, two yellows, and two blacks, each at 18AWG, ideally from a PCI-e cable with the plug chopped off. Have had zero issues reported back to me.

With proper wiring I don't think it's really necessary to double up any more than that, ie this extra doubling of the blacks.

dogie

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Quote from: opinologo on May 19, 2013, 05:53:39 AM

Hi Dogie, thanks for this guide.

I have a question, I tried to overclock my unit just by pressing the "switch clock" button in the web interface. It went well but seven hours later the unit stopped working and I found the black cables too hot and one pair partially melt. Since then I cut the melt section of the cables making sure that they have the same length. The miner is running with the normal "slow" clock. On the other hand the heat sink was never hot at all.

This is a picture of my miner: http://i.imgur.com/VlvRfNW.jpg

My questions are:

1. In order to overclock the unit is it enough to just change the configuration by software or should I also turn the screw?
2. I am only using one fan for the heat sink which seems to be fine even when overclocking. Should I also add a second (or third) fan if I want to overclock the miner?

thanks!

1) You don't need to change the voltage (turning the screw), its done already
2) 2 recommended. I run 2 direct on heatsinks, 1 on power delivery board and on the back of the board.

What you've described has happened to 5+ people I've seen. It looks like there are 2 chinese factories making these splitters. 1 is good quality, proper 18AWG. The other is making fake 18 AWG, which they get away with because no one/nothing typically draws more than 50W from a molex.

Quote from: Caesium on May 19, 2013, 05:57:43 AM

I can't see any writing on them - what AWG are those wires?

You can just see from the way its bending that its not true 18AWG. I'm going to change the guide to recommend PCI-E 8 pin based power as there's been too many burnt cables in the US. Its annoying because the proper cabling doesn't move above room temp.

Caesium

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I can't see any writing on them - what AWG are those wires?

opinologo

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Hi Dogie, thanks for this guide.

I have a question, I tried to overclock my unit just by pressing the "switch clock" button in the web interface. It went well but seven hours later the unit stopped working and I found the black cables too hot and one pair partially melt. Since then I cut the melt section of the cables making sure that they have the same length. The miner is running with the normal "slow" clock. On the other hand the heat sink was never hot at all.

This is a picture of my miner: http://i.imgur.com/VlvRfNW.jpg

My questions are:

1. In order to overclock the unit is it enough to just change the configuration by software or should I also turn the screw?
2. I am only using one fan for the heat sink which seems to be fine even when overclocking. Should I also add a second (or third) fan if I want to overclock the miner?

thanks!

Phil21

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Quote from: dogie on May 19, 2013, 04:49:44 AM

That's only 70C. Material strength will degrade pretty heavily even below this. Anyway, no real risk or worry, it'll just bend in the middle on day.

Cool, yeah that's what I figured. Since most of the weight is on the bottom bars, it shouldn't be a huge concern. Might want to put a T-junction in there though in the middle for support, now that you point this out it makes a lot of sense.

Phil21

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Also.. Does anyone know where I can get 8 pin PCIe "blank" molex connectors, and the pins for them? I ordered the wrong part from Mouser already, and I'd like to avoid a repeat.

The PSU's I got have PCIe 8 pin compatible modular plugs (seems most other manuf. use some custom keyed molex parts), and I'd like to just make my own cables with heavier gauge wire, and get rid of a lot of cable mess.

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Quote from: Phil21 on May 19, 2013, 04:46:34 AM

Quote from: Jimmy2011 on May 19, 2013, 02:12:07 AM

Great solution.

BTW, I don't suggest you guys choose PVC pipes because heat stabilization of PVC is not good, and PVC may degrade as temperature is higher than 60 degrees. Furthermore, PVC will soften when temperature is higher than 80 degrees.

So I suggest you to use PE or PP pipes, and I think it's easy to get small PPR pipes for hot and cold water from some building material stores.

Actually, I am using a modified DN250 (wall thickness about 23 mm) PE pipe segment(Orange gas pipe) to hold my blades. I will have a try to build a PPR system like Phil21.

Thanks! I just checked PVC pipe temp rating, and it looks like they are rated at 160 to 180 degree continuous use. Melting temp (and I assume fire risk) is around 360. Degrees in fahrenheit.

I think you'd likely be fine with these temp ranges from what I've seen, but if you can find better materials for cheap it can't hurt. I've been using similar PVC frames for my GPU boxes for the last 2 years, and they've held up well under hotter temps than these.

I got some 120mm cheapo fans from Microcenter I'll try out tomorrow strapped to the "fan rail". They are not particularly powerful, 50cfm or so - but a quick test with one seems like they'll provide decent cooling. If it works as proof of concept I'll then order some Delta ~150cfm fans since I won't care about noise where this is located

Still can't find my IR probe, was hoping to report temps here but I guess that will have to wait.

That's only 70C. Material strength will degrade pretty heavily even below this. Anyway, no real risk or worry, it'll just bend in the middle on day.

Phil21

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Quote from: Jimmy2011 on May 19, 2013, 02:12:07 AM

Great solution.

BTW, I don't suggest you guys choose PVC pipes because heat stabilization of PVC is not good, and PVC may degrade as temperature is higher than 60 degrees. Furthermore, PVC will soften when temperature is higher than 80 degrees.

So I suggest you to use PE or PP pipes, and I think it's easy to get small PPR pipes for hot and cold water from some building material stores.

Actually, I am using a modified DN250 (wall thickness about 23 mm) PE pipe segment(Orange gas pipe) to hold my blades. I will have a try to build a PPR system like Phil21.

Thanks! I just checked PVC pipe temp rating, and it looks like they are rated at 160 to 180 degree continuous use. Melting temp (and I assume fire risk) is around 360. Degrees in fahrenheit.

I think you'd likely be fine with these temp ranges from what I've seen, but if you can find better materials for cheap it can't hurt. I've been using similar PVC frames for my GPU boxes for the last 2 years, and they've held up well under hotter temps than these.

I got some 120mm cheapo fans from Microcenter I'll try out tomorrow strapped to the "fan rail". They are not particularly powerful, 50cfm or so - but a quick test with one seems like they'll provide decent cooling. If it works as proof of concept I'll then order some Delta ~150cfm fans since I won't care about noise where this is located

If noise is a concern I would design in a fan rail on both sides to push/pull air through with slower, but quieter fans.

Still can't find my IR probe, was hoping to report temps here but I guess that will have to wait.

dogie

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24 Hour Earnings 2.656 *faps*

Jimmy2011

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Quote from: bitjoint on May 17, 2013, 04:17:41 AM

Quote from: Phil21 on May 17, 2013, 03:56:52 AM

The blade has no (apparent) DHCP support, you must select a static IP.

Thanks for the clarification

Quote from: Phil21 on May 17, 2013, 03:35:43 AM

So.. I hacked a bit. Used a PVC pipe rail system, to keep them vertically straight and well separated.

Initial try at the temporary rack

Brilliant solution!!! I'm totally going to get some PVC tubes right now. I love your setup. How did you made the slots in the tubes? Is it a carving knife enough?

Great solution.

BTW, I don't suggest you guys choose PVC pipes because heat stabilization of PVC is not good, and PVC may degrade as temperature is higher than 60 degrees. Furthermore, PVC will soften when temperature is higher than 80 degrees.

So I suggest you to use PE or PP pipes, and I think it's easy to get small PPR pipes for hot and cold water from some building material stores.

Actually, I am using a modified DN250 (wall thickness about 23 mm) PE pipe segment(Orange gas pipe) to hold my blades. I will have a try to build a PPR system like Phil21.

muyuu

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Activity: 980

Merit: 1000

I got mine mining in Eligius through stratum proxy. No problems.

Averaging 24.4 with both blades now that I have enough hours to measure.

Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup - page 69. (Read 580775 times)