(most) molex pins are rated at 5A, so for each blade you need minimally two conductors in parallel.
Ideal would be getting some 18ga (I think this is the largest that you can crimp connectors to) wire, some molex connectors, and running "home runs" back to a modular PSU's ports. The PCIe ports have 3 12v pins on them, which gets you in the 80% rule for the connector itself while drawing 10A.
I imagine it's a pita to find the raw plugs that fit a particular power supply model though.
Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup - page 73. (Read 580761 times)
Thank you so much. 
How can it be that a 4 pin molex can provide around 120 watt?
In a other thread they wrote that we should put the negativ vable in one hole
Or it would overheat. A youtube video shows as example
A melt cable.
Please help me understand ^^
ps: is it possible to change the mhz manually?
In a other thread they wrote that we should put the negativ vable in one hole
Or it would overheat. A youtube video shows as example
A melt cable.
Please help me understand ^^
ps: is it possible to change the mhz manually?
It is my belief that this is the best config. This wiring has been running for over a week now, no temp problems what so ever. By using a molex splitter you're doubling up the local cabling, so a 4 pin molex can provide ~120W.
this setup needs to be done for 1 blade ?
this setup needs to be done for 1 blade ?
How can it be that a 4 pin molex can provide around 120 watt?
In a other thread they wrote that we should put the negativ vable in one hole
Or it would overheat. A youtube video shows as example
A melt cable.
Please help me understand ^^
ps: is it possible to change the mhz manually?
In a other thread they wrote that we should put the negativ vable in one hole
Or it would overheat. A youtube video shows as example
A melt cable.
Please help me understand ^^
ps: is it possible to change the mhz manually?
Uhm, these fans can get quite noisy.
I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room
I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room
That's why I've recommended a fan controller. I have 2 (soon to be 4) blades no more than a metre above my bed and the passive wind noise from outside is louder than the fans - yet the heatsinks remain cool to the touch.
Nice tutorial for newcomers. Just one thing:
TyChange the port to something useful like .200
you meant IP?dogie,
you should consider to add a BIG DISCLAIMER to the OP
Done you should consider to add a BIG DISCLAIMER to the OP
Uhm, these fans can get quite noisy.
I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room
I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room
so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?
Look what you've started with YOUR misinformation, a user now understanding that they should use as few cables as possible, an extremely dangerous proposition.
dogie,
you should consider to add a BIG DISCLAIMER to the OP
Nice tutorial for newcomers. Just one thing:
Change the port to something useful like .200
you meant IP? I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.
One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.
One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.
No no no no no! Look at the video, he had two separate 12V inputs, two single grounds in both of the -ve ports. His solution was to double up the cables using one port only. In fact this has no electrical impact if the board is behaving as it should be. In my setup I have double grounds on BOTH ports, effectively reducing the cable load on the neutrals by 50% from his 'fixed' configuration.
In my configuration the wires are room temperature.
so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?
Look what you've started with YOUR misinformation, a user now understanding that they should use as few cables as possible, an extremely dangerous proposition.
so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?
You need enough positive and negative wires to safely meet the boards power requirements. People are combining multiple black/yellow wires in parallel because typically single cables from an ATX PSU aren't of a sufficient gauge to carry the current that the board demands. Too much current down one wire means the wire gets hot and.. perhaps bad times.
I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.
One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.
While good intentioned and with some useful information regarding vertical mounting and cooling, there's a lot of misinformation around how to most safely power these boards across this thread and others. Detail the specifics of your proposed configuration and ask questions if in doubt. Above all, be safe - wires feeling too "warm" (think would you feel safe with a mains extension lead at that temperature) may suggest something that isn't suitable to be run 24/7 for months on end as these blades inevitably will be.
I didn't intend to scaremonger, honest!
so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?
Question :
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?
Package contains the mining board, the power delivery board, the network unit, the strange unknown red things, 2x40mm fans, the screw in power adapter like in the pictres. No ethernet cable.
The strange red thing (disc) is the Fuse.! ;-)
so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?
You need enough positive and negative wires to safely meet the boards power requirements. People are combining multiple black/yellow wires in parallel because typically single cables from an ATX PSU aren't of a sufficient gauge to carry the current that the board demands. Too much current down one wire means the wire gets hot and.. perhaps bad times.
I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.
One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.
While good intentioned and with some useful information regarding vertical mounting and cooling, there's a lot of misinformation around how to most safely power these boards across this thread and others. Detail the specifics of your proposed configuration and ask questions if in doubt. Above all, be safe - wires feeling too "warm" (think would you feel safe with a mains extension lead at that temperature) may suggest something that isn't suitable to be run 24/7 for months on end as these blades inevitably will be.
I didn't intend to scaremonger, honest!
so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?
Yeah the LCD board looks like for internal testing. Would be pretty cool to get our hands on them though
Did you manage to get a tester with LCD display as in the lower right part of the photo? Any kind of temperature measurement?
No, and not sure what that is. Looks like a debug board for stress testing. In the place of that one we have a network card.
Temps are cool to the touch if you get the cooling right, and hothothot if you don't.
Did you manage to get a tester with LCD display as in the lower right part of the photo? Any kind of temperature measurement?
Yessssh, thank you soooo much!
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