Topic: GUIDE SETTING UP A SOLAR POWER SYSTEM - page 2. (Read 12877 times)

Don't know where I read someone with similar cfg, but for those who are interested, here is my experimental cfg.
Solar panel 12V 40W ( more than 10 years old, not optimal orientation = real only 30W ).
Jally, undervolted from 1,02V to 0,95, stock clock & software, hashing @ 5 Gh/s (0,2% error rate ) (sometimes, cause the low voltage, it stasts @ 4,2 / 4,3, expecially when powered by stock PSU when there is not sun. In this case power cycling is useful to regain 5 Gh/s ). It draws little more than 2A @ 12V, efficiency little better than 5W/Ghs.
No battery and power regulator. Panel and original psu are coupled by a series of shottky diodes (I loose near a watt here). When the sun shines, voltages from panel is higher so it has the priority ( in this case voltage in main power line of the jally goes near 14V ) , when there is no sun, PSU kicks in keeping voltage near 12,5V.

PRO. All solar production in adsorbed by the system so no battery is required (mainenatance free). Good battery has 90% efficiency so all this is a another good gain. Jally runs smoother when panel is active, probably cause higher input voltage and infinite better voltage stability ( stock PSU is really really bad..........ssshhh, I should not tell this cause it is not exploded yet  ).

CON. When Jally is in idle (current drops from 2A to near 1A), there are no voltage regulation, so voltages soar to 16V, wich is not really good because if I remember well caps are 12V rated. All other electronics should run fine.
When there is no sun, I loose near a watt on the diodes, and when there is sun the PSU loose near 2 watt in idle.

Coming soon a more powerful hashing system with similar philosophy. I'm looking at something like this  http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-USB-200?sc=8&category=981 cause the voltage programmable capability and ultra wide input voltage ( every little watt from solar will be saved  )

I was looking at more like 5 years, and if you make your own panels 3.  I'm not sure this makes sense but it doesn't break any laws in nj.....so that's why I think powering the miners directly might be interesting.

Are you buying these solar panels wholesale or retail cause to me right new solar energy is costly and take like 10 years to make back your savings which they should be cut down to 5 years would be nice.     

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vehicle-DC-Voltage-Converter-Step-down-24V-to-12V-30A-Car-Inverter-vol-reducer-/170890062762?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item27c9d76baa&vxp=mtr
Are there a lot of issues with these?

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=730304.new#new

If you need anymore help let me know

Panels: 6x 24V/250W.
Charge controller: 1x PCM60X ( www.mppsolar.com/v3/catalogs/PCM60X.pdf )
Battery: 4x 150Ah/12V RE battery
No replays

When I get time I'll make a full blown guide for solar panels because there seems to be enough interest in it....

What is the setup parts?  I'm assuming a 24v panel with 24v (hopefully 15a charge controller)?  24v lead acid batteries, and a 24v relay?

All except a solution to connect the antminer to the setup.

Oh, OK.  What parts were available again?

I'm too confused and stuck here for a solution.

So I'm confused?  How are you doing it right now?  If the antminers are connected directly to the batteries, you can destroy the battery by totally discharging the batteries.  Also, the charging of the batteries must be slower than the output it can handle with the charge controller.  The charge controller would bypass the battery if it had enough 12v and directly power the antminer.

My charge controller does not have a DC out other than to battery.
Also, these DC output in Charge controller are normally of 10A where as Ants need 35A.

how much is the cost of something like that?

Sorry, I've been busy but that's cool allcoinminer.  Thats exactly what he told me on how to do it, use a charge controller from the panels to a battery and then takes the battery voltage into the antminer through the charge controller.  Don't rely on me but I believe the antminers have a higher tolerances because the actual chips run at a lower voltage through their mofsets and don't directly use the 12v.  The mofsets probably have a higher tolerance.

Now I decided to connect the dc devices directly from DC out.
My battery setup is 24V and Solar MPPT charge controller out put is 24V DC.
Any one know the Antminer S3 input voltage tolerance?
I will be converting this 24V to 12V via a convertor which can provide and an output power of 400W.

Hope you can give the update.

I'm designing my own system and ordered some products.
Soon I will have my setup. I will update before that about the plan.
Solar Power Systems are expensive and if we are doing it in DIY mode then a lot of costs can be saved.
But I'm not recommending DIY solar panel due to many practical reasons.
For a small system it may be worth for the setup I'm doing(1.5 to 2 KWh) I can't go for DIY panels.

It can be anywhere from $.50 to $2.00 depending on if you make your own panels or buy premade ones.

Could you update the OP with price details? I'm curious to how this solar panel project will fare price-wise. Doesn't seem like it would do well but I don't know much about solar panel prices so I could be wrong.