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Topic: Hacking BFL Monarchs and servicing them while times are weird. - page 3. (Read 21034 times)

newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
No each pump is independant. Try the second one, I haven't seen both fail together very often.

I got 2 monarchs and somehow all 4 pumps are lifeless. I decided to sacrifice one. Any thoughts on where my pumps on this one went wrong? The little bit of liquid that did leak out was pretty black in color.

I have some burn/brown marks in the  in the middle

https://i.imgur.com/advZOYnl.jpg

One pump looks to have some green inside?

https://i.imgur.com/CobqcsHl.jpg

Think I snapped off the two wires for the pump controller.

https://i.imgur.com/prgaeZfl.jpg

here are other pictures for others interested

https://i.imgur.com/4QRnopzm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jxGPyO7m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZArTFV1m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nTlVhAFm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/D1OrSFVm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0KlOhRmm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7tIqYLKm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fML0JOsm.jpg
legendary
Activity: 3094
Merit: 2239
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
No each pump is independant. Try the second one, I haven't seen both fail together very often.
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
Sure, the pumps just use normal 12v fan plugs. Use an adapter to connect a fan to a 12v power supply and fire them up. You should be able to hear the water running in the radiator if they are working.

Any evidence of water leaking (on the copper plates or bottom metal frame)?

No water leaking evidence at all. I quickly tested one pump per your suggestion but got nada. Would I need to power both pumps at the same time?
legendary
Activity: 3094
Merit: 2239
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
Sure, the pumps just use normal 12v fan plugs. Use an adapter to connect a fan to a 12v power supply and fire them up. You should be able to hear the water running in the radiator if they are working.

Any evidence of water leaking (on the copper plates or bottom metal frame)?
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
Sorry, been away for awhile. The temp sensors are labelled T1 and T2. They are bottom center of the board, right outbound of the bottom two screws by the ISL chips that control the 6 phase FETs on each side.

You could ignore them by setting the temp on BFGMiner.conf to 200 or so, but make sure the temps on the chips really are reasonable before you do this.

C


Got a IR temp reader, and looks like I am getting to hot. Looking next to the pumps. Is there a way to test the pumps without powering the board?
legendary
Activity: 3094
Merit: 2239
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
Sorry, been away for awhile. The temp sensors are labelled T1 and T2. They are bottom center of the board, right outbound of the bottom two screws by the ISL chips that control the 6 phase FETs on each side.

You could ignore them by setting the temp on BFGMiner.conf to 200 or so, but make sure the temps on the chips really are reasonable before you do this.

C
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
hi,  does anyone know where the temperature sensor are, and if there replaceable?  my showing 150 C at start up........could be the problem me thinks. Grin
i would like to know as well
newbie
Activity: 4
Merit: 0
hi,  does anyone know where the temperature sensor are, and if there replaceable?  my showing 150 C at start up........could be the problem me thinks. Grin
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
apologies if this has been covered before.

i have a number of BFL Monarch.  they power up and run fine at idle.  within 5 minutes of mining the temps at 90C and cut off.  any ideas where i should start?


Thanks

I have same issue but mine cut off in 5 secs not 5 minutes.
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
Just out of interest.

Has anyone been able to get the monarch to work on Dash Coin?

Monarchs hash SHA256 coins. Dash is a different algorithm, won’t work.
newbie
Activity: 4
Merit: 0
Just out of interest.

Has anyone been able to get the monarch to work on Dash Coin?
newbie
Activity: 4
Merit: 0
Hi,  thanks for the reply's.

i bought them used at a very god price for a bit of fun.

1 - work but at a lower rate. (500 ghz instead of 700 ghz)
1 - I've got one to work, however runs a little hot (68 - 78 C)
2 - overheat within 5 minute of mining.

unfortunately there no one in my area that every seen water-cooling.  plus i couldn't trust the quality of work as I'm in working in the middle east at the moment.



Cheers
legendary
Activity: 3094
Merit: 2239
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
Dave's got it. I'd check first to make sure the fan on the front of the radiator is hooked up and working, then check to see if the radiator is getting warm (indication of pumps running). Then check to make sure the fan on the back works, then let's go from there.

C
legendary
Activity: 3458
Merit: 6231
Crypto Swap Exchange
apologies if this has been covered before.

i have a number of BFL Monarch.  they power up and run fine at idle.  within 5 minutes of mining the temps at 90C and cut off.  any ideas where i should start?


Thanks

Could be several things.

1) Cooling pump is dead so the fluid is not moving.
2) All the coolant leaked out (or was drained)
3) The cooling blocks are not solidly attached to the chips.

If you know someone with PC liquid cooling experience they can usually tell you in a few minutes if it's any of those. And for the most part #1 and #2 they are easily (if not cheaply) fixable. #3 is quick and simple but usually not the issue.

Did you get them used or have you had them since new? Did they ever work?

-Dave
newbie
Activity: 4
Merit: 0
apologies if this has been covered before.

i have a number of BFL Monarch.  they power up and run fine at idle.  within 5 minutes of mining the temps at 90C and cut off.  any ideas where i should start?


Thanks
legendary
Activity: 3094
Merit: 2239
I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)
These units are very interesting. I'm impressed that BFL was able to produce such a decent unit (albeit hot-running and below performance expectations) given all of their failings.
Yeah they had a tough time building the damn things. Main fault in retrospecitve was building such a fucking big chip; it ran so hot they couldn't run them in series like ants did, and trying to build a power step down supply that could feed the chips wound up with FETs that ran almost as hot as the chip (inefficient). A series string of 15 smaller chips would have been amazing, but they wanted to do the stupid plug it in your computer form factor.

And they were insane. Ah well, no more domestic US miner manufacturers. Ants or nothing.
legendary
Activity: 924
Merit: 1000
Think. Positive. Thoughts.
Great! Post how you did it (include things like did you remove the old compound from the chips, what you put on, screw torque amounts, etc) so other people can do this as well.

The Ebay coolers are a bargain....

Would I be able to take the pumps off a working 400mhs Unit and install them on a 700mhs?


Probably. I did this once to test the problematic 700mhs unit I had, prior to getting the new units. I was never able to figure out the 700 unit I had that was hashing at 400 - 460. It wasn't cooling or power.

These units are very interesting. I'm impressed that BFL was able to produce such a decent unit (albeit hot-running and below performance expectations) given all of their failings.
legendary
Activity: 924
Merit: 1000
Think. Positive. Thoughts.
Great! Post how you did it (include things like did you remove the old compound from the chips, what you put on, screw torque amounts, etc) so other people can do this as well.

The Ebay coolers are a bargain....

I bought the bulk package for $75. I have extras now. They came with the compound on the HS and I removed what was on the units with alcohol. I screwed the back brackets on opposing ends until the flexion on the bracket was almost inverted. It's very similar to a GPU HSF. One issue I had was a bracket was missing the rubber standoffs, but I had some rubber I cut to put in its place.


Sorry, but I didn't take pictures and I sold the Monarchs I had.
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
I have two Monarchs that seem to have faulty temperature sensors and they stop hashing very quickly after bootup. Any way to fix the problem?

I have another with 15% HW error rate, any ideas on this?
15% error rate is not a big deal, a few engines are screaming but they don't really pull power. As long as it hashes well let it be.

As for the faulty temp sensors, are you sure the water blocks are running? Listen for the water at the radiator top, then check around to see if there are any signs of leaks around the water blocks/pumps.

C

I believe you are correct, sir.

I can hear fluid when I shake it, but I can't hear any fluid moving when I turn it on. I can tell at least one of the pumps initiates, but the copper blocks heat up immediately, some shares are accepted and then when the temp reaches 85 they shut down. Too little fluid perhaps. I have ordered new cooling units, I'll see if that fixes the issue.

Another issue, I have a 700gh unit that only hashes at 320gh with bfg 4.10 and 400 with BFL custom bfg 4.2. Could this be another cooling issue with one of the units shutting down?

I am having the exact same issue with my 700gh unit. What time s the other cooling unit u are ordering? Do you have a killawatt attached to see wattage draw? Mine seems to spike over 750 watt usage when I turn it on

Good news. Lightfoot was correct, the issue was the coolers. I replaced the two non-functioning units and the monarchs are now hashing along nicely. I am going to try replacing the cooler on the 700GH unit tomorrow.

Did you use a walkthrough for replacing the coolers?
newbie
Activity: 38
Merit: 0
Great! Post how you did it (include things like did you remove the old compound from the chips, what you put on, screw torque amounts, etc) so other people can do this as well.

The Ebay coolers are a bargain....

Would I be able to take the pumps off a working 400mhs Unit and install them on a 700mhs?
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