Topic: How about a solar power source for pop one price mining (Read 1184 times)

Okay I see. That is a neat idea would have been cool if you had found reliable equipment. I could fishing shacks everywhere running these all winter.

Looks like your running into more and more competition for land to keep expanding the arrays. Nice to see Solar catching on, here's to hoping you can expand next year and don't have cycle as much equipment just keeping pumping that hashrate.

could use Nastypool as well - its not fully solo as there are a couple of people in the pool but I dont think they have found a block since May.

Yeah  I am taking a shot and pointing it to this pool.

http://solo.ckpool.org/users/1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje

the odds are slim

ahh gotcha, yea that is a good deal!

No someone gave me a deal he is hosting  3 of my s9i for 130 a month total.

Which is under 5 cents a kwatt.

man that sucks about the properties - I wish I could turn my spare lot next to my house into an array - its only about 1.5 acres though.

also, someone is paying 130 a month to host s9's is that per each one? or total for all 3?

No this was  to be a portable  setup to mine with say 1 or 2 L3+  or 600 to 1400 watts.

Mine only in the day.
The inverters  are not any good.

As for a big array  a 73 acre site was too far and had a lot of setup issues.

A 28 acre site  that was perfect we lost the auction.

We have an empty 7 acre site and the town won't give approvals.

So we have not expanded power the whole year.

I did get a very small contract for hosting 3 s9i's  at 130 per month.  Which is nice. as that is under 5 cents a kwatt.

I helped a guy with his 50 miner farm and he contracted 3/50 of it to me.

cheap power is tough to get.

Was this for the second Solar array you were planning? That sucks, as I feel you have a good model for what is available to people. How long does that kill the project for?

Not everyone has grants, investment capital or the right environment but it is a good project for those that do, especially if they want to mine with cheap energy costs. ( After the initial investment of course)

We got more bad invertors.  so 0 for 2.  pretty much a busted project.

For current sharing, I use smart diode with only 26mV forward voltage drop at 8A
It can handle 15A max. Useful for DIY solar project.
Solve voltage drop and power dissipation, very nice.

PDF
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sm74611.pdf

Where to buy
https://www.newark.com/texas-instruments/sm74611kttr/hot-swap-controller-30v-to-263/dp/54Y4755?cjevent=d386339fcb1411e880dc00090a240610&CMP=AFF-CJ-7642757-Newark%20Product%20Catalog&source=CJ&CAWELAID=120185550002204491

aight - thanks for all the advice everyone - I will work on them in the upcoming week and let you all know if I make any progress.

On an east and west facing roof you would not want to angle them to the south because then you will be introducing shading to the panels closely spaced together, especially with the lower sun angles in winter.  Also with tilting introduced it will destroy the aesthetics of a low profile system.  With east and west facing orientation you will also have a certain percent power reduction, I think it would be about 85% but don’t quote me on that, it’s been 18 years since I designed my system.

like I said there are specific string patterns when you wire panels and since there are a lot of panels involved across two inverters I can not tell you what is optimum .  Also I am a knowledgeble but not licensed to do the work.

They did cheat you with just the 7.7 kwatt inverter installed

They added the 3.8 kwatt inverter  and 5 panels at 295 = 1455

They should add more panels to the  3.8 kwatt inverter.

Tell you cheated me at first as 7.7 kwatt inverter was too small

and while you gave me a 3.8 kwatt inverter later you only gave me  5 panels with a total of 1455 watts.

I should get at leas 5 more panels or I will have to get a lawyer.

It is worth a shot.  Tell them I don want to have to do face book and youtube attacks over 5 more panels.  bottom line is you did cheat with the 7.7kwatt inverter it was too small.  How many of the 400 installs did you do like that?  I don't want trouble and I don't want to be an a-hole
but I am not the company that put in only a 7.7kwatt inverter  . 

Tell them You took a shot you got caught by me a simple fix is 5 or 6 or 7 more panels.

try 7 panels then drop a little . fact is they did not put in a proper inverter 7.7kwatts was to small.

the 3.8 is a good fix but it needs more then the 5 panels they added.

my roof slants to the east on the back and to the west on the front - the house is lined up with one end facing south and the other end facing north. the only angle they have is to the east or west based on pitch of the roof. as close as they are together, can they angle them to the south? or would they need to space them out more? I would think that to optimize the opportunity - even if for a few hours each day for it to reach its full potential. So far, they are still stone walling me - but maybe move 4 panels from the 7.7 to bring it down to 27 panels - move those 4 over to the 3.8 inverter bringing that one to 10 panels and then ask for three more to bring it to 13?

yeah  I  read that  7.7 can do a max of  8100 watts  in and it sends a max of  7700 x .975 =

7500  or 7.5 kwatts  which was the most it could do   at say 12 noon to 1 pm on a bright sunny day if and only if you roof allows for the perfect tilt say 30 degrees and faces south .

So they lied a lot  when then set it up with   only the 7.7 kwatt inverter

now they added a 3.8 kwatt and some panels.

but I have no idea of the way the panels are wired i really they should have under 7700/295  =26.1 or 27 panels

and 3800/295 = 12.88 or 13 panels

but panels have specific dc volts so  a string of  7 works but a string of 8 does not

I also don't know how they tied the  2 inverters together .

but to me they certainly tried cheating you when they only put in a 7.7kwatt inverter.

they tried fixing it adding on. Ask for more panels  to the 3.8  see what they say.

You probably don’t need to because you will never have those modules producing maximum power under ideal conditions.

And I need to make a small correction, your 7.7 kW inverter is CEC rated at 97%, the 3.8 kW inverter is 96.5%.

so, you think it might help to shift some of the panels from the 7.7 to the 3.8? They did say the first inverter was maxxed and that is why they added the second one - so maybe the panels are producing more than the first inverter can handle? that would mean I am just losing that energy right?

Need Phil or Notfuzzy for this one to verify my numbers or correct me where I’m wrong:

Your 7.7 kW inverter has a maximum usable DC load of 8100 watts at 240 volts.
You have 31 solar modules each 295 watts = 9145 watts, with wiring losses ~8,230 watts going through that one inverter.  It seems to me that you might have 1 solar module too many going through that inverter, or maybe the inverter is able to handle all that power your modules can produce under the most favorable conditions (full sun, cool day) for a short period.  Your CEC rating, and I’m in California so I’m not sure if the rest of the nation uses CEC, is 96.5 so the most power that inverter can produce is 7,816.5 watts AC and with an average of 4.5 hours of sunlight per day over the course of a year, you should produce on average 35.2 kWh per day with just that inverter.

So you added 5 more 295 watt solar modules and a 3.8 kW inverter.  That inverter can handle 4000 watts of DC power at 240 volts. 5 x 295 = 1,475 x .9 = 1327 watts so with the CEC rating factored in you can produce an additional 5.8 kWh per day for a total of 41 kWh on average per day.

The good news is that your 3.8 kW inverter can handle up to 15 solar modules at 295 watts so you have room to add 10 more solar modules to your system.  Doing that will get you a total system of about 53 kWh per day on average, it will definitely get you close to a 60 kWh per day range this time of year if your existing system is giving you 45-46 kWh per day now.

yes 120/240

http://files.sma.de/dl/27676/SB30-77-1SP-US-40-IA-xx-14.pdf

Technical Data starts on page 65

Stryfe:  assuming a 120/240 volt system, is that correct?  Mine is 120/208 volts but I don’t believe that it’s as common as 120/240 volts.