Topic: How to get a 220-240 k-watt-meter in the usa - page 2. (Read 602 times)

whitrzac, I don't doubt what you're saying that it works at 240v - my issue is how accurate it is.  At 120v it was like +/- 5% (so 10% error), at 240v it might be 2x of that, and +/- 10% is better than nothing, but it isn't terribly useful depending on what you're trying to do with it.

A better test would be to put it under some known load, like a heater or something (resistive load) that is rated at like 1000w - generally speaking those manufacturers are pretty close in their loads (the higher the better).  I also usually like to test things against inductive loads as well (like a fan or really any motor), then you get a sense if they run into any issues with different types of devices.  With a 10% margin of error, you might be looking at 160+ watts error in what's being displayed... If you're interested in just ballparks that it's close to what you're after, then it's probably fine - but where it becomes more problematic is the different ones might could end up returning different values.  

Another interesting thing would be to put all 4 of your Kill-A-Watts in series, and look at the reported watts... That also would give you some idea of the variance you're going to see.  I'd be interested to see that if you're so inclined to do it - I only ever had one Kill-a-watt, so I never really looked at the device variance - but I've literally got hundreds of Sonoff's and once calibrated they're all pretty consistent.

gotminer, believe it or not, it's probably safer to run these things at 240v than 120v, depending on how they're doing their current sensing.  In a wildely general statement, the higher the voltage, the better...  That's why I said it's probably more likely to be an accuracy issue than a safety issue running these things out of spec.

I'm not sure why this image isn;t working...

https://i.imgur.com/mYTchxx.jpg


I've tested them up to ~10-12 amps at 240v without issue. I do not run them long term at those current levels.
I have 3 of them that have been used at ~6 amps and 240v for over 6 months without issue. The KWH recording, ect are all accurate.

TP Link HS110's say they only work on 120v on the back of the units, but they do work on 220v as well.

I hardly think that someone is simple for using a product within it's designed specs...  There's a reason they're not rated for that range - whether it's for safety or accuracy.  I imagine it's probably more of the latter - after looking through their products, they all have really tight voltage ranges, so it's likely they're taking some shortcuts in terms of calculating load by making assumptions about voltage.  That's also why I'm not a fan of any meter that you can't calibrate to a known load...  I can tell you that when I compared it to my Fluke it wasn't super accurate at it's rated voltage against a known load, so I've got to imagine it's even worse outside of their published spec.

Post pictures when your shit burns to the ground.  Lol ... Kidding, but I'm not joking when I say that I would take Phillip's word over most people who post in this forum.

Some people are just that simple.

I have 4 p4460s that have been used for over 6 months on 240v without issue.

Kill-a-watt's on page shows the operating range is 115v-125v:

http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html

I looked at all their other 'energy saver' products, none support > 130v.  Philip is on the money - plus he wouldn't have gone through all that effort to get EU ones if he could easily get US ones.

Sorry, but I trust Phillip more than you.

They work fine on 240v up to 12+a...

Keep me posted on that I like trying out new gear as well, since I'm not adding to the farm I'm currently just tinkering with the peripherals and silly stuff right now.

Even took Awesome Miner for a test run, don't know why, just something to do. It's not shabby, don't know if I'll upgrade the license for the rest of the rigs just have 10 on them right now.

Thanks - these are from my beta build area, our production rigs are much cleaner.  

The cases are just some Chinese ones I've purchased - I've probably bought every GPU case available, we typically buy at least 10 or so so we can get a feel for them (you can see some of them in the background).  Really none of them are perfect, but I'm working on my own design (and not some BS like some of the other people that just take a Chinese case and resell it), but an actual designed one made by someone who actually mines.  

I love it when phillip is right and he tells you that he is right.  Thanks for the info.  This is something I've been very curious about.

I'm a sucker for the old school stuff with needles.  Nice!

I've been reading up on these since you posted the other day - these sonoffs are pretty damn cool and going to order a few to play around with.

Those rigs looks so damn neat and tidy man... I have wires hanging EVERY WHERE lol.

What cases are those BtW, looks pretty sick.

To make life easy, I took some pictures for everyone - it's going to vary depending on what kinds of cables you've got, but you get the idea:



And as a little bit of rig porn, here they are in production:



I mount them with nylon spacers on one of the PSU screws - works like a champ.

It's $10 + shipping, so it ends up being only a buck or two less, plus it takes about a week vs a day... The best deal if you're buying bulk of these is on Aliexpress, where you can get them for $10 shipped, but it takes 2-3 weeks to get them.

Either way, I have no idea how they're able to even manufacturer this let alone sell it for $10 - it's amazing.



With a C13 you're going to have 3 wires from it, and they map pretty much the same - match grounds, normally it will green.  Then neutral will almost always be blue, and whatever color you're left with is line, which typically is brown.  Here's a list of the colors and what they typically correspond to:

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/reference/chpt-2/wiring-color-codes/

I have that  and have yet to wire it.

nope  they do not   I have them and they do not work.

it may be you have a different one then me I have 4400p3 international and it does not work.

Im using a amp meter with a coil to see the total amp's draw from the panel , its a passive device , no electricity need it, (Watts=Volts x Amps )
you need to connect to electricity ONLY if you want to use the backlight function .
Also measuring each rigs power draw with a switchable, metered pdu