Topic: Is this electrician Bonkers? Input Needed (Read 1973 times)

Quite correct not to talk of the time it takes sometimes to update and fix the gpu rigs when the sometimes go down
Having my rigs close and not paying for the space negates any advantage in electricity discounts I've run the numbers

I see now i should have said 2.8 kwh not 28 kwh and yes the rules is 80 % of the service but if your close or over id upgrade the service, to be safe, by close id say 34kwh but if your only pulling 20k at best isn't it like 44k you  can actually use on a 200 amp service before shit starts popping breakers and fires start and can use safely is 36k,unless your over loading a breaker and the rule for breakers is 2400 or 2.4 per 240 line with a 30 amp breaker is 80 % and on a 120 it is around 1800 or 1.8  is 80 % 15 amp 20 amp i believe is 2k with 120,all depends what breaker you use 15 20 or 30 amp and wire  ,so shop around or find out just what you need  it is Prolly like you said run lines with the right breakers and not a new meter or this or that but something really simple and cheap, so shop around

find out the avg cost were you live get three or more prices to make sure.

Ive found out in the past there are some greedily jerks out there that have no problem with taking a 80 years old last dime.
I'm 60 but help a 80 year old that all most had it done That asks me to help .

and the inspector sounds right and the electricians is well or saw $$ signs because of your life style .

yes i agree wtf is it there worry if you/i pay my bill on time why should it mater how much you/i use as long as it's legal they need to back off .

cya

That would cut into his profits heavily...

If you're pulling 18000 watts a month chances are you're making enough money to rent a small warehouse for a few hundred a month. You'd also get to pay cheaper commercial electricity rates, usually better cooling, more room to expand, etc!

your number makes no sense to me do you mean 28000 kwh ? that's 1800kwh is nothing

does your bill look anything like this lol

Premise Energy Overview


 
Type Cost Usage Emissions

ELECTRICITY-1 $2206.75 16738 kWh 22395.44 lbs

28 KWH AVG last year sense then thu i have lowered it to around 1800 every month still mine some, but waiting on new miners made me broke, got tried of waiting. so i spent it on junk stuff  so i'll  have to play catch up . i refused to buy S7 still do and the A6 came out to late, and like Sierra8561 said sound like there milking you ) .... not sure what you  mean by share feeder source most of everything around me runs off poles wire wise they all claim it cost to much to bury it but all our power lines are above ground what I  meant by telephone pole . the power company owns those poles i believe my fios was buried when they put it in.some of the richer areas around me have it all buried and there power all most never goes out due to bad weather but the power company here has got a lot better at getting it back on once it's out after being sued and find heavy by the state for poor service.

I'm sure they are trying to milk every dime possible.

yeah i dont understand why they are stressing me over the my usage, yeah the 30amp breakers are warm but new breakers on a sub panel would resolve that cheaply, what KWH did you see on your average bill ?

they dont share the power feeder source with phone, i dont have phone service at my house.

also I'm not sure  what the feeder cable is if it's the one from the telly phone pole to the house id be ware of what the power company is to lazy to do they put under rated cables up there so i found out the hard way one burt out from tress .. not what i was doing in my house i found out then they had the wrong size up for my 200 amps service the guy from the power company told me that came to replace it.  then a few weeks later i had a main box replaced in side the house and the electrician told me in my state they can get a way with using the wrong size cable because it's state code and allowed and they do it to save money and don't care  . but so far with my service all last year i run it at or close to 30 kwh all most  every month with S5's and some older miners never once had heat issue as long as it was on 240 lines or i didn't max out the 110's  i used .

That's what outs side my house or it looks like at the smart meter but the power company did it all when they put in smart meters as part of the service which they did over time  same pvc pipes etc ..I'm sure i some how paid it back with the power bill.


but that's in Maryland.


in my state the AVG price depends on what you need the electrician I used after getting three prices to replace my main  panel last summer was 1500 with permits to upgrade the service which i didn't do but i asked  he told me he won't do that unless he has a permit . the other two wanted close to 3k and said they didn't need permits which sounded fishy to me . i liked the guy i had he seemed to care more about what he did then the cost or money.

I paid my cuz $1500 for labour but the parts and everthing cost me like $800 to 900.  It was a bit more becase I had him install t he four new 30 amp circuts for my PDU's a swell and I had to get
a ton of 240v indoor 30AMP cable the orange stuff and its crazy expensive.


This might be of help to you as well and also answer questions about my build.  before my Cousin came over to help me he had me call an inspector from the city over and run this list of questions by them


My original plan was to add 200 amps + the existing panel I had turned into a subpanel with all the existing breaker stuff for the house on that and my new panel would be for mining stuff.

Cousin sent me this :
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You’re just going to have to let him know that you’re doing this yourself and you don’t have anybody helping you (cause that’s not allowed) and you’ve been researching a lot and that’s how you know to ask these questions.  Don’t be afraid to not know something.  You’re not an electrician and you don’t have to be.  If he asks you something about your plan and you don’t know, tell him you don’t know and ask what you should do – this shows you’re trying to get it right.  Entire plan outlined below.  If you show him this plan you need to modify it slightly so everything looks like it was not written by someone else, such as my annotations and notes to you.

Notes about your plan when you're talking with him:
3/0 is pronounced “three ought”  4/0 is pronounced “four ought”
I write 3/0 3/0 3/0 so you clarify the size of all three wires
The grounding rod is the rod sticking up out of the ground near the meter
The plan to have 100A breaker in both the main panel and sub panel may be questioned but should be ok.  ask about it
 
Main things to touch on:
 
·        Main conductors from meter outside to the new 20A main panel:
o   What size conductors and type of metal are compatible with my meter?
o   Does it matter if I use copper or aluminum?
§  For copper, I would use 3/0 3/0 3/0 THHN.
§  For aluminum, I would use 4/0 4/0 4/0
o   2” conduit entire way from meter to main panel.  Sealed with silicone where the conduit at the point of entry through the wall
·        What are the grounding requirements for the 200A service?
o   I currently have one ½” grounding rod
o   What size grounding rod will be required?  What type of metal?
o   Are one or two grounding rods required?
o   What are the requirements for connecting the rods?
§  What gauge and type of metal for the grounding wire?
o   Does the ground need to be connected (or “bonded” is what you might say) to the water pipes, gas pipes?  If so, what gauge wire
·        Panel location and height ok?  Will any plumbing need to move?
·        Sequence of events for inspection.  I think it is:
o   Power company cuts power at transformer and unlocks my meter box
o    I install the following
§  Remove existing main (aluminum) wires from meter
§  Remove existing gray conduit from meter to main panel
§  New main panel
§  New 2” conduit and wires from the meter through the wall and connect to the main panel
§  Convert 100A panel to a sub-panel
·        Re-use existing 2AWG aluminum wires, leaving them connected to the 100A panel, but instead of running to the meter they now run to the 200A panel to a 100A breaker
·        Remove green bonding screw in the 100A panel
§  30A breakers all move to new main panel.  Where wires are not long enough they will either be replaced or junction boxes will be used.
§  All other wiring from 100A panel remains untouched.  Except maybe the equipment grounding conductors are removed and connected to the new main panel instead.  IS this correct?  All the ground wires from all the old circuits remain in place
o   Inspector comes out and checks it out
o   Power company comes out and turns power back on at the transformer and locks my meter box
Big question is if you make connections in meter or if power company makes connections in meter.  The meter belongs to them but the wires from the meter to your main panel belong to you.  Ask him what else you need to know.  Write down everything he tells you or record the conversation.

After I had the city inspector come in these were the responses I got, great guy btw laid back he didn't even comment about the heat in my basement and the huge exhaust fan
poking out the lone basement window.
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Thanks for getting all the questions down on this plan it made the meeting with the inspector really easy.

so things we need/need to do


-Disconnect the power from the mains
-Dave the Inspector recommended to tape  carboard over the existing meter lugs so as not to accidentally touch those.

Once power is disconnected from the mains

-Add the piping for 2/0 copper conduit
-Move the old panel to the side panel area and connect the new panel shifting it up 2"-3" inches max ass needed.
Once the new panel is installe connect conduit from one of the side holes in each panel to the other panel so we don't have to run
conduit up above to re-connect the new panel via 100a or 60a breaker to the new one.
-Upgdrade the grounding connector that goes to the water main right new to the washer with new 4" copper , all one wire with no breaks like the one that's already installed.


*** I never ended up doing this but might be doing it now. *****
For adding service 200amp  to gararge

-install a lug kit for the meter to run new 2" cabling at least 18" underground to the garage and install a new panel
on the garage wall right below the stairs since the conduit entrance has to be close to the panel.

that's basically the long and short of what he told me, all in all he was in agreement with the plan. We don't Need excel since we are not installing a new
meter or new service from the pole.

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What I ended up doing was discarding the old panel and putting all the house stuff , AC,heater,lights etc on the new 200amp panel and using 4 dual slots for 30amp circuits for my mining farm.

If you look at the Excel box there is actually a third hole that can be knocked out to add that lug kit the inspector talked about and run a full 2/0 copper conduit all the way to my garage like the inspector suggested.

The current electrician thinks I need a whole new meter and crap but even the inspector did not think so at the time which is why I wonder about this electrican.

Anyways bottom line my conduit is 2/o copper , I just  checked the heat on the conduit and there's no warmth at all must have been the sun, and its 8pm here.


how do I check what my PCF is ?

240V on everything

Not sure if there are any laws about PF in Canada I am sure there are.

Companies get charged a lot more for their bills once the dip below .8 PF.  I remember hearing something about that. I would do PF correction at a shop too!!  I doubt I would bother at home but with a PF of .6 maybe I would that is pretty terrible lol.

Is there a good way to measure PFC for the layman?

I've always ran my PSUs hard (100+ degree garage, 70% load) and while I've only had a couple outright fail I've always wondered if their PFC degrades over time.

I'm sure there is lots of noise in general.  For example my garage door transmitter barely functions anymore when the miners are running!

The power company, for one thing. It's a law in the US, far as I know, that any single load over 75W is required to have power factor correction of some kind. Crap power factor does indeed waste a lot of power, but it's not power your meter measures so you're not directly paying for it. But you are straining the system with added current draws that can cause problems with transmission lines (including your house wiring) and the transformer at the pole. Heck, if I had a power factor of 0.6 on my shop I'd have about $1600 in added fees on my bill in a month.

I assume you mean having an electrician come in to do the work.

It's going to vary in location and the status of your current box (is it up to code, what other work needs to be done, etc).

That 2800 could be very reasonable or it could be high

Hire your cousin to do the other work too, problem solved.

I bought a 300 amp box for 80.00. Fortunately my wiring was heavy duty and could handle the upgrade

slightly off topic.. whats the avg cost to upgrade from 125a to 200a box?  my orig 1960's 125a is maxed out

my solar company quoted me $2800

is that avg price?

At what voltage do your miners run?

http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

What size are the cables going into your panel?

To the sin wave thing, tell him you will run what you feel like LMAO.  Who cares if your circuit is highly capacitive.   

All about that current.  You are technically wasting a lot of power if you are at like .6 PF but I highly doubt you are.  You can do some power factor correction but I REALLY doubt that is required.


I would 100% do the 5AM touch the wire test suggested though.